Locked out (battery dead) but have the keys!

[wirtzfeldvalley]

C70 convertible
model year 2000
mileage 85000 miles

Problem:
deadlock? battery dead, cannot open the doors although I have the keys

I've had a shoulder surgery and was unable to drive my C70 convertible for 6 weeks, so the battery was dead.

With a spare battery I was able to start the engine last week

This week I wanted to open my car again, but the remote control was only able to open the trunk, not the driver's door. Using the key in the (only key hole) of the drivers door, had also no result: the key just turns completely around with no effect!

Cannot enter the car, and so cannot open the motor compartment to switch a new battery in it.

Please help, my volvo dealer is saying
"just spray some rust remover in the key hole"
but this is of no help...

hubert from Belgium

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

WD40 is your answer, the key will override the deadlocks, if you can get the key to turn in the lock

Until I fixed the door lock in my S70, I had to enter through the boot, punch the arm rest down, reach in, release the seat back, crawl through, release the bonnet and crawl out again, took a god 20mins of messing about, but probably not an option if you've just come through a shoulder op, also, I'm not sure if the seats fold down on a C70.

Would you have a trailer socket or caravan socket, it would be possible to power the vehicle through this to unlock it

[wirtzfeldvalley]

tried entering the trunk, but backseats cannot be fold down,
and the armrest hole is too small, even for my skinny nephew
and no, have no trailer socket

tx anyway, hope to get some other solutions?

[coldfield]

I was working on my V70 a while back and left the key in the ignition, for some reason the doors all locked and i was unable to gain entry back into the car..

My mate is an RAC man and he got into the car in 20 seconds !!! He used a wedge and a special hook that enabled him to lift the button on the inside of the door.

Maybe this would be your answer...RAC or AA.

hth.

[wirtzfeldvalley]

@ coldfield

I tried with a long metal wire to pull the inside door lever of the opposite door, but did not succeed to open it.

[Jimcoted]

I had a similar thing when my mates young grandson left an interior light switched on, it sat for days like that and flattened the battery. I had to crawl in through the boot with the car parked right beside a crowded bus stop!!

I don't know if this will help but just after I bought my V70 I found that the left side bonnet release was faulty. Following the death of it owner who cherished it the car sat for a few months. The Philistine I bought the car off the family had gained entry to the engine compartment by sliding the grille sideways, I worked this out by the fact that nearly all the clips were missing. The grille will slide either to the right or let (cannot recall which) this MAY give some sort of access to the release cables.

PS my key would not unlock the earlier car either when it had a flat battery because the deadlocks were on. I had to do it from inside.

[Luxobarge]

You can get into the boot, right? (I presume that's what you mean by "trunk")

OK, sounds bizarre, but what you could try is to find a permanent live wire in the boot (trunk) area. The feed to the boot light (or better still the boot light switch) should be permanently live. Connect this to the positive feed from a battery charger, and the negative lead of the charger to a good body earth somewhere.

Leave it for a few hours and it should charge the battery.

A bit fiddly I agree, and make sure you don't short out the live wire to ground, but I'd imagine this would work IF the only problem is a flat battery.

When leaving your car unused for a lengthy period of time, I'd recommend connecting up a battery conditioner - usually pretty cheap, and will greatly increase battery life, as they don't like being left half charged or even flat. Plus of course you'd avoid this sort of problem.

Hope this helps!

[wirtzfeldvalley]

You can get into the boot, right? (I presume that's what you mean by "trunk")


correct, I meant the boot indeed.

I'll try this idea, and will post the result later.

Hubert from belgium

[wirtzfeldvalley]

I could not yet load the battery via the idea as described here before (i'll wait for the volvo engineer who promised to pass by one night...)

but

I finally managed to put a steel hook/wire at the back of the door lever

I even can pull the lever, but the door lock will not unlock !

As I don't know how to post pictures in the forum, I've put links to my pictures that show the steel wire with the door lever...

Looks like it will take some days longer before entering my car again...

Hubert from Belgium


http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/P1010375.jpg


http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/09/P1010372.jpg

[acshortt5]

It's because the deadlocks are engaged - that's why the door handles don't work.

It will be very tricky doing it all the way from the boot but have you tried to get the bonnet lever with your wire?

[Luxobarge]

It's because the deadlocks are engaged - that's why the door handles don't work.

Exactly right - that's why I suggested charging the battery, so you can effectively get in the way you're supposed to. :thumbs_up:

[acshortt5]

Is there not a way of popping the bonnet from underneath? Or even just taking the plastic undertray off and try to get the +ve lead of a charger onto the battery from underneath? The -ve can go onto any part of the chassis.

[wirtzfeldvalley]

It's because the deadlocks are engaged - that's why the door handles don't work.

What exactly is meant with the deadlocks are engaged? Is this the little electric emergency button underneath the window?

It will be very tricky doing it all the way from the boot but have you tried to get the bonnet lever with your wire?

I tried to reach the handle to open the bonnet with a long metal stick from within the boot, but because I have to pass that stick through the ski opening in the boot which is in the middle of the car) i cannot go around the front seat (the handle of the bonnet is very close to the door underneath the dashboard...)

trying it with the wire is practically impossible... distance from the boot till the bonnet handle is too far, so the wire cannot be handled precisely (it was already difficult to pass from one side of the car to the other side...)

tx everybody for thinking with me...

[Luxobarge]

Is there not a way of popping the bonnet from underneath? Or even just taking the plastic undertray off and try to get the +ve lead of a charger onto the battery from underneath? The -ve can go onto any part of the chassis.

I'm sure that could be done, but would it not just be easier to clip the charger on to the live side of the boot light like I suggested? Same effect....

[wirtzfeldvalley]

I'm sure that could be done, but would it not just be easier to clip the charger on to the live side of the boot light like I suggested? Same effect....

i prefer to not put the charger to any place of the car for now, i am afraid i could mess up the electronics system, so i shall better wait for the volvo engineer passing by before trying out that one...

I keep you posted about the outcome!

hubert from belgium

[Clan]

It might be a good idea for everyone with a 850 based lock system up to 2000 to try their door key , make sure it opens the car ! The rod going from the lock barrell to the mechanism can corrode and break as it never gets used therefore not actualy unlocking the car when you use the key .
As Above , if the battery goes flat it is the only easy way of getting in the car ...
You cannot get this rod on it's own , a new key barrell is required complete with rod , matched to your car's key number .. from your dealer ..

now how many people tried this and found theirs broken? someone set up a poll ..

[Jimcoted]

A few years ago my 850 T5 suffered a flat battery. Deadlocks were on. Key worked in the lock but the locks would not disengage. I had to squeeze into the ski bit enough to reach the back seat unlock, crawl into the car, release the bonnet, remove battery, charge it, crawl back in, open bonnet refit battery and then the locks would disengage and only then.

Jim

[wirtzfeldvalley]

A few years ago my 850 T5 suffered a flat battery. Deadlocks were on. Key worked in the lock but the locks would not disengage. I had to squeeze into the ski bit enough to reach the back seat unlock, crawl into the car, release the bonnet, remove battery, charge it, crawl back in, open bonnet refit battery and then the locks would disengage and only then.

Jim

sound promising, Jim, except that my c70 is the convertible model with only a very small boot and cannot unlock the back seats... they are fixed

I fear however, that the rod is broken in my car, see prev mssg, because i can turn the key completely 360°

[gdphillips]

lock out kit.......air bag that pulls the door out (no good for you hard top only) find a car with a long bonnet stay (hood) use that to hook the bonnet pull its going to be the way to do bend it and its strong enough to hook to the handle..........used to do it and have got in to many cars locks deadlocks etc even unwound man windows using the handle...

[The Hooded Claw]

Only just noticed this thread or I would have posted earlier.......

Deadlocked car with DUFF door lock ... the ONLY way to get in is as follows


1. Get under car.

2. Locate Starter motor & Main Feed

3. Connect Battery Charger (+) to main feed on Starter motor (Its the only cable that feeds DIRECTLY back to the battery) & can handle the current Connect (-) to Chassis.... doing it with the aforementioned "Boot Wiring" will FRY THE ELECTRICS)

4. Wait 30 Mins & then push the remote....Battery will have enought juice to unlock car....

NOTE*****

it WILL NOT make the car "CRANK" ( this will only happen if the Starter Solenoid is "Cross connected" to the starter main feed******)


I have had this on 2 of my Previous Saab's TRUST ME it IS the ONLY WAY to open the car. the Starter motor cable is the ONLY cable large enough to carry the current to charge the battery.

In the last of my Saab's I actually installed a "Flying Lead" connection under the passenger side front bumper, 1 large brass Bolt/Nut bolted to the bottom of the inner wing/bumper area with some very large Rubber washers ....


So for future reference... Car locked with dead Battery...

Connect Charger to Main Starter motor feed & Chassis (FROM UNDER CAR) IT IS THE ONLY WAY to open the vehicle ......

[Jim314]

You can get into the boot, right? (I presume that's what you mean by "trunk")

OK, sounds bizarre, but what you could try is to find a permanent live wire in the boot (trunk) area. The feed to the boot light (or better still the boot light switch) should be permanently live. Connect this to the positive feed from a battery charger, and the negative lead of the charger to a good body earth somewhere.

Leave it for a few hours and it should charge the battery.

A bit fiddly I agree, and make sure you don't short out the live wire to ground, but I'd imagine this would work IF the only problem is a flat battery.

When leaving your car unused for a lengthy period of time, I'd recommend connecting up a battery conditioner - usually pretty cheap, and will greatly increase battery life, as they don't like being left half charged or even flat. Plus of course you'd avoid this sort of problem.

Hope this helps!

This is really a good thought, but the wire to the boot light cannot carry much current. If you would connect a charger to such a wire, it would likely have to be a charger which is current limited to 1A to 3A or so. A heavy duty charger might overload the wire and at best blow a fuse.

Don't some of these cars have a 12V receptacle in the boot? These are an accessory to power 12V devices (like a radio or a 12V refrigerator) when the car is parked and the ignition is off. If it has one of these, then a current limited charger (sometimes called a battery maintainer) would charge the battery when the car is turned off. These battery maintainers usually come with a plug to go into a 12V receptacle.

These 12V receptacles usually can pass maybe 10A, but it would not be a good idea to connect another battery through that receptacle as that could supply several tens of amperes which would overload the circuit. A regular battery charger which might be limited to 10A might work through that receptacle though.

To make this work in this case you would probably have to remove the bulb to the boot light since this would draw more current than the battery maintainer would supply.

[The Hooded Claw]

This is really a good thought, but the wire to the boot light cannot carry much current. If you would connect a charger to such a wire, it would likely have to be a charger which is current limited to 1A to 3A or so. A heavy duty charger might overload the wire and at best blow a fuse.

Don't some of these cars have a 12V receptacle in the boot? These are an accessory to power 12V devices (like a radio or a 12V refrigerator) when the car is parked and the ignition is off. If it has one of these, then a current limited charger (sometimes called a battery maintainer) would charge the battery when the car is turned off. These battery maintainers usually come with a plug to go into a 12V receptacle.

To make this work in this case you would probably have to remove the bulb to the boot light since this would draw more current than the battery maintainer would supply.

****SEE MY POST (No 20).... Thats the solution .....

Keith

[Jim314]

****SEE MY POST (No 20).... Thats the solution .....

Keith

These cars are low to the ground. Is the starter accessible from below with all four wheels on pavement?

[The Hooded Claw]

These cars are low to the ground. Is the starter accessible from below with all four wheels on pavement?

Just About Jim ... (the Starter Motor Terminal is at 45 Degrees) so you can (with a bit of Wigglin about) get on to it

Having said that just coz its locked theres nowt stoppin yer from jackin up the front (Obviously) ..

Keith

[wirtzfeldvalley]

Today I will keep trying to find ways to get the hood opened from within the car via the boot opening.

If not:

Keith Idea (msg 20): seems logically to me.

As soon as the mechanic of my volvo garage shows up (he lives nearby and promised to come to my place one evening...), I will show him Keith's message and try that way to get the battery juiced up via the starter cable from underneath in order to unlock the door with the remote and open the hood to replace the dead battery.

Everybody already tx for the kind advices, i keep you posted later on (only hope the mechanic shows up this evening...)

Hubert from Belgium

[Luxobarge]

This is really a good thought, but the wire to the boot light cannot carry much current. If you would connect a charger to such a wire, it would likely have to be a charger which is current limited to 1A to 3A or so. A heavy duty charger might overload the wire and at best blow a fuse.

Yes, it is indeed only a low current circuit, but it will be fused. Now, the lowest value of fuse used will be 5 Amp, so as long as the charger doesn't deliver more than 5 Amps it will work fine. Quite right, a heavy duty charger will probably blow the fuse, perhaps I should have made it clear that a low-power charger is what's needed here, left on for quite a long time.

My charger would work - I think 5 Amps is the max it will go to, takes all night to charge a battery but it does it gently and carefully. If in doubt, just wire in a 21W bulb in series with it, to act as a resistor, at least until the battery has taken a fair bit of charge and will be drawing less current.

Whatever happens it will not "fry" the electrics, the worst it can do is blow a fuse - that's what they're there for.

However, as above, if you don't mind jacking the car up in the air enough to get at the starter, then this of course will also work. In fact, as this is a very heavy duty cable, you could "jump" onto it from another battery rather than use a charger if you wanted to. I think I'd use a charger though - more gentle. Any permanently live terminal will work, the only issue is how much current it can take.

[The Hooded Claw]

Hi Hubert,

Look on the "Bright Side" if it was a Merc "E" class you had you have NO CHANCE of getting at the battery in those they are located under the rear passenger seat !!!! or the Citroen Picasso where its located under the front passenger seat ..!!!!!

& the "High End" BMW's have their battery in the Boot!!! ....I have often thought if they put it there because of "Lack of Space" in the engine compatment or for "Ease of access" in situations such as yours.

I think theres a lesson to be learnt for all of us here ...."Make Sure your Doors locks are fully functional even if you ALWAYS use your remote"

Whatever happens it will not "fry" the electrics, the worst it can do is blow a fuse - that's what they're there for.

Aggreed Lux Probs a poor choice of words on my part but thats what I ment (Fuse Blowing Ect)...

Keith

[Chris_Rogers]

The 'MkII' V70 & S60 also have the battery in the boot.

Reading this thread I'd suggest either of the suggested methods of charging the battery should work, probably less hassle to use the boot light method and a small charger given the OP's medical problem.

[Darth Vol]

Only just noticed this thread or I would have posted earlier.......


Connect Charger to Main Starter motor feed & Chassis (FROM UNDER CAR) IT IS THE ONLY WAY to open the vehicle ......

I agree. I've had to do that once with my 850 and 3 times with my VW Golf... works a treat, if not a bit fiddly.

[gjd]

Hello

Given Hubert's Shoulder Condition, I'd like to hear whether his C70 had an accessory socket in the boot, as that would be the most painless way to recharge the battery. Alternatively, there may be a socket in the back of the cabin (my V70 has one at the back of the centre console).

I had my 440 jump started using an accessory socket connection to the "live" car once. Very simple and straight forward.

[wirtzfeldvalley]

I'd like to hear whether his C70 had an accessory socket in the boot, as that would be the most painless way to recharge the battery. Alternatively, there may be a socket in the back of the cabin (my V70 has one at the back of the centre console).

The back console in the C70 convertible has indeed an accessory socket, but unreachable due to the limited heigth in the boot compartment (it stores also the soft top of the convertible)

I am still concentrating on trying to open the hood with a stiff wire... my trial and error efforts may be followed on the webcam at our entrance via

http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/english/webcams-in-wirtzfeld/

One image every 5 minutes though...

And yes, on this moment the convertible is still equipped with a hard top from Wiessmann

But keep also an eye on your royal wedding!

Hubert

[wirtzfeldvalley]

Some minutes later:

Meanwhile, i succeeded with a stiff wire via the window of the door to open the hood of the car!!

Yiiiiippie... will now install an extra starter battery and hope the door will open!!!!

http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/success.jpg

will post later today the result with some additional pictures!

Hubert

[Jim314]

Hello

Given Hubert's Shoulder Condition, I'd like to hear whether his C70 had an accessory socket in the boot, as that would be the most painless way to recharge the battery. Alternatively, there may be a socket in the back of the cabin (my V70 has one at the back of the centre console).

I had my 440 jump started using an accessory socket connection to the "live" car once. Very simple and straight forward.

The 12V receptacle in the back of the center console in my 2004 V70 is disconnected when the ignition is off so this could not be used to charge the battery with the ignition off.

An 'eccentric' relative of mine has let her battery run down on several occasions because she does not start her car (2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee) for weeks at a time. I am considering installing a battery 'maintainer' which has a connecting cable which stays bolted to the the battery positive and to a ground. This has an 18 inch cable ending in a plug which would be accessible through the grille. The maintainer plugs into that. One leaves it connected to the maintainer (~ 1A limited) and just disconnects it when one wants to leave.

This would seem to be a useful product for P1 V70s and for 850s if they have a high rate of this sort of failure.

The battery in my P2 V70 is in the cargo area next to the spare tyre. I could connect the lead of a battery maintainer to the battery and route it through one of the rubber plugs in the floor of the spare tyre compartment. Is the lock cylinder on the driver door of the P2 V70 more reliable than that of the P1?

From this point on I intend to use the key at least once a week to insure that the key lock is functional.

[wirtzfeldvalley]

Managed to open my Volvo C70 again after DEADLOCK !
Thanks for the many contributions in this forum,

(Today, at about the same time when William and Kate gave the balcony kiss..)
, I finally managed this afternoon to open the hood of the Volvo C70 with a stiff wire which I've put along the window of the door, to grab the hood lever underneath the dashboard.

So finally i could open the hood, connect a spare battery to my car's dead battery and immediately (so without first reloading the old one), I could use my remote control again to open the deadlocked doors.

(Remember: my door key would not work on the mechanic door lock, probably the bolt between mechanic and electric lock is broken due to having never used my keys, always only the remote control!)

Everybody here in the forum tx for your advice, hope this thread will be of help to future deadlocked doors of various types of Volvo.

Here below some pictures to illustrate my solution, the used wire is about 3.5 mm thick, so quite stiff, this enables to steer the wire to grab the lever.

If I ever can be of help to you in Belgian Ardennes, please remember to mention DEADLOCK when contacting me.

Enjoy your weekend!

Hubert from Belgium

http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/P1010388.jpg

http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/P1010385.jpg


http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/P1010390.jpg


http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/P1010384.jpg


http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/P1010386.jpg

http://www.wirtzfeldvalley.com/wp-content/uploads/2007/10/P1010389.jpg

[raithc70]

Good news, you got in

[Orangegrump]

I have this problem and have located the starter feed. Do I remove some of the red insulation on feed to make contact or is there a specific place to connect charger?

Many thanks Moore

[TurboZutek]

Building on the charging the battery from the boot idea, there is an AUX power connector down the left side of the boot area to feed the CD MultiChanger and a bunch of other options. It's made from very beefy 40amp cable (solid red) and is constant live.

It's a good place to either charge the car or connect in a booster battery. With a good battery hooked up there you should have enough power to unlock the car.

It's way less hassle than breaking into the bonnet. I see you are already into your car (good news!!) so I'll add this for anyone else searching the thread in the future. :thumbs_up:

Chris...

[stevenbrandist]

This forum thread has been very useful after my V70 battery went flat.
The drivers door would not open with the key.

There is an issue with the drivers lock on my car as after unlocking the car with the remote, the drivers door needs to be unlocked with the key (despite the door button popping up).

My technique altered slightly from those previously stated.

1. Remove plastic tray from under front of car. (1 Bolt either side).

2. From a position of laying on the ground, reach up passengers side and locate bonnet release cable and pull it. This will unlock the passengers side bonnet catch.

3. Get a helper to hold the bonnet ajar on the passengers side. There should be enough space to release the centre catch.

It is impossible to reach the drivers side bonnet catch cable!

4. Insert object such as a piece of wood in the gap created, halfway down the wing is a good place. As the V70 bonnet is very large piece of metal it can be twisted sufficiency without causing damage to the bonnet or hinges.

5. You now have just enough space to reach in remove the the positive terminal battery cover and insert jump leads to a spare battery.

Once connected "Hey presto!" the remote can be operated and all the doors open.

Many thanks.
I hope this technique will help others in the future.

[fotoco]

Front driver side indicater pop out long screwdriver will open the latch UK car ps on lhd

[vwswede]

Hello!
We just had the same problem on a V70 -04 Diesel.
Flat battery and keys in hand, no lock turned (there is just one even on an estate.
The starter is located at the middle and front of the engine so getting to it with a jump start cable was imkpossible.
So we took a 50 cm round iron, prolonged it with a wood screw that we welded on and bent the other end to a handle. The rod was insulated with a plastic tube.
Then we screwed the screw and rod into the starter´s cable and used a jump starter to open the doors and start the engine.

Good luck!
Petert

[gnc]

when i had this problem, i connected a battery charger to the boot light, charged up enough that way.

[byootox]

It might be a good idea for everyone with a 850 based lock system up to 2000 to try their door key , make sure it opens the car ! The rod going from the lock barrell to the mechanism can corrode and break as it never gets used therefore not actualy unlocking the car when you use the key .
As Above , if the battery goes flat it is the only easy way of getting in the car ...
You cannot get this rod on it's own , a new key barrell is required complete with rod , matched to your car's key number .. from your dealer ..

now how many people tried this and found theirs broken? someone set up a poll ..

If I has a pound for every car I've had with people forgetting to use there lock barrels on the door and boot being seized solid or broken...
This is a good point that Clan makes and I only realised mine was very sticky to use after the receiver unit for the locks packed in on mine.
After a spray and a few weeks of use it freed off again.
Remote locking is a nice thing on cars nowadays but it's always good to have an old fashioned back to basics way of getting into a car again.
So as he says check your lock is fine and spray it from time to time to keep it good.

[Parsdaft]

Did something similar, jacked car up, removed plastic tray at front, able to see and reach positive lead from battery. Sliced insulation with Stanley knife. Then used long screwdriver with insulation tape applied almost completely, just leaving space for charger crocodile clip at handle and last 5mm bare. Pushed the screwdriver end info the bared copper with negative to engine casing. Turned on charger and 5 minutes later key unlocked the door.