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View Full Version : D24TIC - Oil Filter replacement


monkeh
Nov 10th, 2007, 19:44
Instead of going to Volvo now for my oil filter, which is now located in cardiff, (im in newport) and perform the general rubbish by
Ordering,
Paying,
Waiting for a day
Then picking it up when I can.
GSF or Europart however do stock them, but are they the same as Volvo, With the non return valve on the filter?
I refuse to use Fram as the quality is not the best, doesnt include the non return valve and with an engine with a mechanical flaw with the oil pressure, I dont want to take any chances!

jpliddy
Nov 10th, 2007, 19:51
hi gsf stock the vw mann oil filter thats the one you require get 4 if your keeping it forever like me
regards
james liddy

monkeh
Nov 10th, 2007, 19:56
Cheers,
Does it have the non return valve on it though?

jpliddy
Nov 10th, 2007, 20:38
99% yes check with supplier . i replace mine every 5000 miles have done for last 8 years my 940 only done 141000 miles best car i have owened bit noisey when cold they all sound the same i have listened to a few over the years. i use millers xfe semi sythetic its just under£ 20 now .i also put 20 mls of millers diesel clean in every fill up i buy it in 5 litres so it lasts quite a while . any addvice i can give email address is jamesliddy@talktalk.net regards
james liddy

hawaiianblue
Nov 10th, 2007, 21:16
Personally i dont think the non-return valve makes any real difference. I mean the filter points downwards anyway so i cant see how the oil could drain out of it when you switch off.
Whereas it maybe needed on some other engine instalations where the filter is fitted on the side of the block, i cant see it's needed in the 740 turbo's

But yes GSF sell Mann filters, who make them for Volvo/VW

111
Nov 11th, 2007, 11:13
All the oil above the filter will drain back through it but the filter will remain full so that on start up the oil ways above will need to be filled before reaching the component (camshaft ect) and creating any oil pressure, You would be wise to make sure it has the NRV fitted.

monkeh
Nov 14th, 2007, 16:23
OK FYI!
Mann Filters have the non return valve, Retail from GMF 7.14 Part number W950/4

JIM C
Nov 14th, 2007, 16:31
I was told Man make the Volvo filters. Is that true?

DLM48
Nov 15th, 2007, 01:33
WHY is there not a non return valve in the pick up pipe to the oil pump? That cant be a big or difficult modification to make. I hear that 1.5 quarts of extra oil in the sump is recommended to help this drain back and lack of oil at start up. Has anyone fitted an engine pre lube system or used one of the 'special' cold start oils

http://prelube.com/powrlube500.html
http://www.engineprelube.com
http://www.king-cart.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?store=autoenginelube&product=Engine+Pre-Lube+Kit&exact_match=exact
http://www.masterlube.net/shop/default.asp

jaydbass
Nov 16th, 2007, 20:15
Just had a service done recently and noticed the oil light flash on for a second after startup this morning. Been a busy, busy day and now it's dark so haven't checked oil level. Is this the kind of thing you guys are talking about with the non-return valve on some filters and lower oil pressure at startup?

jor
Nov 16th, 2007, 21:47
Don't really know. But after checking that the level is a bit above max check that it's either Mann or Volvo and if not change it.

john

111
Nov 16th, 2007, 21:58
Just had a service done recently and noticed the oil light flash on for a second after startup this morning. Been a busy, busy day and now it's dark so haven't checked oil level. Is this the kind of thing you guys are talking about with the non-return valve on some filters and lower oil pressure at startup?

Probably as it will take a small amount of time to fill the oilways then build up the pressure.

Clan
Nov 16th, 2007, 22:16
I was told Man make the Volvo filters. Is that true?

It seems so , but to VOLVO ( Not Mann ) Specification Volvo did a test on about 10 non volvo oil filters about 10 years ago and the differences were remarkable , one filter casing split when exposed to an overpressure which volvo filters could cope with . Some came loose and leaked in sub zero conditions , some had oil bypassing the actual element inside the can letting unfiltered oil into the engine ...The volvo filter material traps particles a lot smaller than on the others .
I have been using a VOLVO oil filter on a classic car for many years and it is remarkable how much cleaner the oil is when dipped ..

jaydbass
Nov 22nd, 2007, 00:32
Don't really know. But after checking that the level is a bit above max check that it's either Mann or Volvo and if not change it.

john

It's a Mann. Thankfully it seems. Got a bit of spare time 2moro so will check levels etc.

monkeh
Nov 22nd, 2007, 03:19
Im working on a 'Priming Button'
Push it and it kils the Glow plug relay/Engine control
Providing the batterys up to standard, A 5 second Push'n'hold before you start the car, should bring oil pressure up for the first start of the day.
Ive slick50'd my car. Refilling next service.

111
Nov 22nd, 2007, 12:46
Slick 50 has had some very bad press especially in the U.S as they have bee sued over false advertising. Do a serch on google, they did a test on 20 engines 10 that had slick in & 10 that didnt. They then ran them dry & the slick 50 lot failed hours before the standard lot failed, There were may other issues as well but I cant remember off hand, I do know from experiance that it can cause the turbo bearings to slip & not roll thus causing flat spots. Here are some of many.

http://www.visordown.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-165389.html
http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/legal/s50pre.html
http://www.math.uwaterloo.ca/~rblander/snake_oil.txt

RoyMacDonald
Nov 22nd, 2007, 23:15
Im working on a 'Priming Button'
Push it and it kils the Glow plug relay/Engine control
Providing the batterys up to standard, A 5 second Push'n'hold before you start the car, should bring oil pressure up for the first start of the day.
Ive slick50'd my car. Refilling next service.


Don't know what car you have but on the D5 engine manual Volvo print in big bold letters under the oil to use Do not use extra additives. These can damage the engine. As they make engines capabable of 2.6 million miles without wearing out I'd be inclined to follow their advice. :)

Roy

111
Nov 22nd, 2007, 23:32
Me too, the quality of a good oil these days will probably be better than that of an additive due to the Millions spent on development compared with 100 or so thousand (if that) on the additives.

hawaiianblue
Nov 25th, 2007, 15:07
Don't know what car you have but on the D5 engine manual Volvo print in big bold letters under the oil to use Do not use extra additives. These can damage the engine. As they make engines capabable of 2.6 million miles without wearing out I'd be inclined to follow their advice. :)

Roy

All manufacturers say that, simply because they cant speak for other makers products. It's gives them a get out clause for their vehicle warranty too, if your engine fails under warranty and you've put an aditive in there, then they'll blame the aditive no matter what.
You'll notice they also tell you not to fit different tyres than were originally supplied with the vehicle, so say it came with Michelins, you cant fit goodyears?

I think all most of these aditives are fine if used sensibly, but if you use good quality oil, then they already have such aditives included in them anyway. Things like slick 50 can improve crap oil, but chances are they'll have little benefit to good oil. Essentially all oil aditives do is either increase the viscosity of the existing oil ,to reduce consumption or 'synthetically fortify' the existing oil to reduce wear. So either use a thicker oil or fully synthetic depending on what you want to acheive.

I used some Slick50 gearbox aditive on my old car and it did make the gearshift smoother.
I've also used some Wynns stop leak, which does actually rejuvenate weeping rubber seals, well they stop weeping!

111
Nov 25th, 2007, 15:53
I've also used some Wynns stop leak, which does actually rejuvenate weeping rubber seals, well they stop weeping!
I don't really want to go off topic but,this stuff is fine if you are going to sell the car within the next 12 months or so, but all it does it to swell the rubber in the seals to close the gap, The problem been that they swell all the engine seals, This in turn makes them press harder on the sealing surface upping the wear rate of every seal in the engine.

RoyMacDonald
Nov 25th, 2007, 22:43
All manufacturers say that, simply because they cant speak for other makers products. It's gives them a get out clause for their vehicle warranty too, if your engine fails under warranty and you've put an aditive in there, then they'll blame the aditive no matter what.
You'll notice they also tell you not to fit different tyres than were originally supplied with the vehicle, so say it came with Michelins, you cant fit goodyears?

I think all most of these aditives are fine if used sensibly, but if you use good quality oil, then they already have such aditives included in them anyway. Things like slick 50 can improve crap oil, but chances are they'll have little benefit to good oil. Essentially all oil aditives do is either increase the viscosity of the existing oil ,to reduce consumption or 'synthetically fortify' the existing oil to reduce wear. So either use a thicker oil or fully synthetic depending on what you want to acheive.

I used some Slick50 gearbox aditive on my old car and it did make the gearshift smoother.
I've also used some Wynns stop leak, which does actually rejuvenate weeping rubber seals, well they stop weeping!

Check out this web site for some well informed information on oils and additives and very clear info on why it is a very bad idea to use an additive in a turbo charged engine. It also has a breakdown of the Court cases and judgements against additive companies. (inc Slick 50)

http://www.carbibles.com/engineoil_bible.html

Roy