Tailgate wont open

[Symes]

I thought it might be good to ‘celebrate’ my 100th post by putting together a quick ‘how to’ which will might help if / when your tailgate refuses to open! This problem generally is either down to the wiring loom failing where it flexes at the hinge, or the lock itself – however there are also fuses and relays which should be checked before you start taking your car apart!

Assuming the initial checks point to wiring or lock, you’ll need to open the tailgate to remove the trim.

Before you can repair the lock or wiring, there’s a bit of a struggle involved to reach the mechanism.

Lower the rear seat(s) and climb into the loadspace, then carefully ease the top of the rear tailgate trim away from the frame. <IMG SRC="tailgate.jpg"><img src="trim removal.jpg">

Take care as you don’t want to split the plastic.
Once you have created a gap you can look down into the tailgate interior and see the lock, using a long screwdriver, or similar, press down on the ‘spoon’ as shown. <IMG SRC="tailgate interior.jpg"><img src="spoon.jpg">


The lock will disengage allowing you to carefully remove the trim.

Remove the trim around the hinge and inspect the loom which may show signs of wear and tear – repairs will be much cheaper than replacing the section of loom – as long as you ‘re handy with a soldering iron and heatshrink! If like me, you’re lucky the only damage will be some breakage to the insulation – I took a short cut and just used insulation tape to make each cracked wire safe.

To remove the lock itself:

Disengage the arm connecting the exterior handle to the lock, remove the electrical connections and unbolt the lock itself.

Once removed it was easy to see what had occurred – the solenoid had over extended, pushing the actuator arm past it’s normal position so it ‘misses’ the ‘spoon’.<IMG SRC="actuator.jpg"><img src="lock assembly.jpg>

Closer inspection of the solenoid showed that the sliding pin was ‘dry’ and showed signs of binding.
<IMG SRC="solenoid.jpg"><img src="solenoid2.jpg>

I decided to break down the solenoid further, the unit is secured with lugs which can be opened with a small screwdriver.
<IMG SRC="solenoid3.jpg">


The internal screw and cog mechanisms were greased, but the sliding pin had no lubrication where it contacts the housing.
<IMG SRC="solenoid4.jpg"><img src="solenid5.jpg>

Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I cleaned up the pin and filled the grooves with vaseline before reassembling the solenoid into the lock mechanism.
<IMG SRC="solenoid6.jpg">

Refit the lock into the tailgate and reconnect the wiring loom, do not fit the trim until you are happy that the lock is operating reliably!

It's been 6 months since I repaired my V70 tailgate lock and so far the mechanism has operated flawlessly.

[ensign_ricky]

Terrific post. Solved my problem of a locked tailgate. The solenoid was over-reaching. After opening it, greasing etc., as per your post, it occasionally still stuck. The plastic in the lock assembly seems to be flexing (old age I guess), allowing it to over-shoot and move a little off line. I used a cable-tie as a stop to prevent the solenoid moving too far. Put it in place as shown in the photos and apply a little super glue. I've had no problems since.

[Symes]

It's good to know that there's someone else out there who's prepared to try and repair rather than replace - good job!

My tailgate lock has been fine now for almost a Year - so much so that I've forgotten about it and don't get that "I wonder if..." feeling any more! But... if it start playing up again I'll look into the cable tie fix first!

Thanks,

Symes.

[Bernard333]

great post , I have a problem with the fuel filler flap motor on my 2003 V70 not working and am planning to take this apart to see if I can make it work again rather than buying a new one , will post photos if successful .

[ensign_ricky]

My fuel filler flap has never worked, but I never bothered trying to fix it. Post back it you make progress, I'll help if I can.

[RonJ]

My fuel filler flap has never worked, but I never bothered trying to fix it. Post back it you make progress, I'll help if I can.
Thanks - my tailgate stuck and your pics were most usefull. I had to come up with a few novel tricks to get around my dog cage though!!!

[seamusb]

Really useful thread.
My problem was that the lock operated when the boot was up, but didn't when it was closed.

Tracked it down to a wire (between lock and block inside bootspace above rear speaker) that was bent/broken through, which was not touching when the boot was closed.

Top thread though - gave me the inspiration to fix a non-locking boot that I've put u[ with for a year !

[timberpolka]

You mentioned fuses and relays that should be checked before taking the car apart. Where are these located? All of the fuses under the hood up front seem to be in good shape. Is there another box somewhere that contains the rear actuator relay?

[Chris_Rogers]

There is another set of fuses in the rear of the car on the rear electrical module, this is located behind the trim on the left side of the luggage area on a RHD car.

[timberpolka]

Thanks for the tip, but like Seamusb it turns out I was suffering from a broken wire in the tailgate harness. Removed the panel around the left rear speaker, unplugged the harness, and checked for continuity between that plug and the one on the tailgate lock actuator. Eventually tracked down two wires that were broken near the tailgate hinge, above the speaker.

[Symes]

Ah yes, good spot.... I should have mentioned where the rear electrics module is! Thanks for the pointers Chris.

It sounds like broken wires are becoming a common problem... I've got away with it so far, but when the loom finally gives in I think I'll replace the section in the hinge with some extra flexible silicon coated cable :-)

[crutch]

I've been driving around for about a year with my '94 850T tailgate stuck. I tried all kinds of things to open. I couldn't get the panel off because of the inside plastic around the interior latch lever wouldn't separate. finally I just broke it off. The peice that broke was a fairly even crack around the interior latch surround. The interior latch was still functional and the surround peice was still in tact and strong. I finally got the thing opened. I now can close the gate, half-locked, and use the outside latch to open. If it is slammed tight I'm able to now open with the interior latch. The child safety lock was on and that's why the interior latch wasn't functional. I disabled it and it works great. The exterior one is still sort of sketchy since it works with it half-closed. This is fine for my purpose because it is sort of my truck and the kids usually ride in the minivan. I bought a panel repair kit from a online volvo parts dealer and repaired the back panel. It is now nice and tight and everything is funtional even the wiper without hitting the panel. It's like I have a new car, yay, and can start using it as a truck again, yay#2.
-------
In this same day I was able to also repair the hood latch which has been broken for about 6 months. It needs an oil change. This one was easier. I popped the hood and pulled up as high as possible. I could then see the latch bt looking from the front-side. I got one of those strong aluminimum tent stakes (looks like a 10 or 8 guage wire but stronger, not the flat angled aluminum stakes) and was able to hook the latch and open. I then used that same aluminim stake and two pair of pliers and bent it around the latch and hand the wire stick out above the volvo logo on the grill. I then created a loop outside of the grill. It sticks out a bit but it dissappears at about 6-8 feet into the silver of the grill. There is till a little tugging and pulling to get the hood open but I can get it open when needed.

[Mike Cook]

To the posts with the fuel flap problems just wait for about five minutesafter youve locked the car and then try. You might get a pleasent surprise!

[Gazdok]

As Mike Cook : To the posts with the fuel flap problems just wait for about five minutes after you've locked the car and then try. You might get a pleasent surprise! says.
RTFM!! It is in there.
Special Volvo feature with delayed locking for the fuel flap.

[GMcL]

As says.
RTFM!! It is in there.
Special Volvo feature with delayed locking for the fuel flap.

These motors are prone to failure as they are just plastic inside.
This post (http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showpost.php?p=124344&postcount=6) explains how to repair the motor if the teeth break off.

[slymarbo]

absolute great how to article, mine had been stuck for about 8 months, now no longer, all i had to was pop the trim, open the boot, keep the outside handle upto the open position and pop the "coat hanger" thingy back into tis rightfull hole, job done in 10minutes :thumbs_up:

now i just need to get round to sorting the heater motor/fan out...sounds like a jet taking off if its past 1/4 turn and vibrates the whole car something cronic, any ideas or quick-fixes???

[John-wbt1]

Really useful thread.
My problem was that the lock operated when the boot was up, but didn't when it was closed.

Tracked it down to a wire (between lock and block inside bootspace above rear speaker) that was bent/broken through, which was not touching when the boot was closed.

Top thread though - gave me the inspiration to fix a non-locking boot that I've put u[ with for a year !
Thanks for your post - Timberpolka - a Canadian lumberjack dancer?
I've solved the reason why my tailgate lock only worked intermittently
The loom of wires had been tied up very tightly with a cable tie
just in front of the n/s tailgate gas strut
When I exposed the wires two were completely broken
a thick black and a I think a pink and black stripe
Joined the two back together and everything works fine
Apart from now the alarm sensor on the dash flashes very quickly for 15secs
when I turn on the engine
It says there a problem with the alarm or the immobiliser
Think I better check back there aren't any more broken wires
or that I pushed the loom connector back securely

Anyway to you all in forum land -
keep the info coming - as it's a source of invaluable help to everyone

John

[tmprutton]

Great posts thank you, but I have a slightly different problem my tailgate will lock but not unlock.
Per advice from these posts I have clambered around the boot pulled the trim and managed to get to the latch mechanism, this all happened the day before I was driving back from holiday in France and need to load the car up!!
So every time I lock the car I have to climb into the boot to unlock it again, real pain.
Any advice would be much appreciated.
My car is a 2003 V70.

[Symes]

tmprutton - my guess is that the 'lock' wire to the solenoid has broken in the loom at the hinge. You may find that some of the other wires are also in need of some 'tlc'!

[tmprutton]

Thanks a lot for your post, I pulled the plastic cover off the hinge and there in all their glory were 2 broken grey wires, one black, two yellow almost gone, vvvvvery bad design!!!! Reconnected them but alas the same situation I guess some more investigation. Do you know where I could get a wiring diagram or this section of harness around the hinge or even the wire gauges, without going to Volvo. Thanks again.

[tmprutton]

After my temp fix yesterday it got even stranger, now when I lock the car it locks but still will not unlock using the remote but is does unlock when I start the engine? at least we are heading the right direction!!

[Chris_Rogers]

I'd check the pink wire at the tailgate harness, this is the one that tells the system the position of the tailgate (open or closed), it should be at ground potential with the tailgate closed.

[mvpguerra]

I have the same problem, my door won't unlock or lock, depending on the position I leave the solenoid's sliding pin.
Sometimes, after disassembling and reassembling it works for a bit but then it gets back to this annoying inactivity...
I tried the process you kindly shared and explained but the solenoid it's different and I'm not able to open it since it is sealed and have no lids like yours... On the other hand the wire loon is in excellent shape and protected by a neat looking linning of nylon cloth. My V70 was manufactured late 2003, maybe they modified some specs by then...
I will try to disassemble the lock again and try to lubricate it from the outside... It's that or a new part.
Sorry for my bad english. Thanks for the excellent post!

Also I should add that I measured the voltage between the wires when locking and unlocking and the current gets to the pins with the door opened and closed and the solenoid won't work either way.

Here's some pics to illustrate...

Update: I tried to lub it from the outside but it keeps refusing to work

Manuel from Portugal.

[mvpguerra]

Latest Update: I decided to stop being lazy and I removed the linning around the wire loom and guess what - not one but three wires were interrupted and one had lost its pvc insulation!! I repaired and it's working flawlessly! I guess I was (un)lucky when I measured the current and detected it whenever I clicked the remote...
Bottom line: lazyness won't save me money! Hard work will!

Manuel from Portugal.

[The Transplanter]

Again just for information.

My 2000 V70 T5 tailgate lock stopped working, on inspection of the wires between the tailgate & connector block behind the speaker panel, one of the .5mm grey wires had broken in two! I soldered in a section of new wire and hey presto my dog is now happy :thumbs_up:

I took about 30 minutes in total, and to be honest the hardest part was working out how the trim come off without damaging it ;)

[jsniderman]

Thanks to the previous helpful comments, the photos of the lock mechanism and a healthy dose of luck, I was able to perform arthroscopic surgery to release the tailgate on my 1999 V70 following a low speed hit by an SUV. I drilled a tiny whole to be sure that I had found a spot above and to the left of centre where there was no reinforcing metal frame. It was about 7" above the floor and 3.5" to the left of centre. I enlarged it to 1/8" whole and then inserted a metal rod (a bicycle fender support) and prodded around to find the releasing "spoon" as one person described it. Within 10 seconds I had found the spot and had the tailgate open, which allowed me to properly remove the lining and correct the problem (a bent and thus shortened rod). The hole is so small that the fuzzy liner material completely conceals it and I will eventually try to pop out the dent by inflating a basketball between the frame and the skin. Good luck and keep sharing!!

[deepc]

A thanks, a results, and a little background and recommendation follow:

A huge hooyah to the original poster SYMES and mvpguerra for helping fix my 03 V70's stuck tailgate. I also had two broken wires, yellow and grey, and a black with insulation chafed right at the hinge. Quick solder job and all is well.

I went by the dealer and also emailed Volvo customer care trying to figure out how to get into the tailgate. The dealer said there's no way and customer care said to bring it by the dealer. Worthless. So I took the recommended route and pulled the trim back off the top, stuck one hand down in there and moved the locking lever to the driver's side--voila, one open tailgate. From there it was an easy deal with four Torx to undo the trim and commence the search for the broken wires.

So here's what really ticks me off, if you look at the right side of the tailgate's bottom, and at the trim, there's a hole there just right for a bent wire or perhaps a "special Volvo tool" that would fit in there, reach up, and rotate that triangular white plastic connector to unlock the gate. Now, I have no doubt that if I went to the dealer for a fix, the lock fairy would have opened the lid in 30 seconds, and then sat and laughed at the one hour labor they'd have charged. They have a means to open the damned thing and they're not bothering to help anyone out...that's bad customer service...no better than the ubiquitous "check engine" light that's always worth a $125 diagnostic charge.

It would be a cinch to make this tool, and prevent this hassle the next time the wires go.

Anyway, fixed thanks to this fantastic forum and its posters. Thanks again!

[eros5656]

awesome thread. thanks for posting the walkthrough and pictures.

any ideas on how to get the door open if pressing on the spoon isn't doing anything? i can pull back the trim far enough to reach my hand down, then depress the spoon as far as it feels safe before breaking, but the door won't unlatch. i've tried locking and unlocking the door and can hear and feel things moving around inside, but i can't seem to actually get the door open.

thanks!

[Trentham]

Just finished working on the tailgate on my V70 (it had locked). I'd Like to thank the author of this website.The pictures where very easy to follow. I'd had called a local dealership before my brother found the website and they quoted me £150 for the work.

[roryoc]

Thanks for the great original post - I unlocked my 2006 xc70 boot by pulling back the trim and using a long screwdriver to push the lock spoon. It has unlocked with no problem since (although I would not be surprised if the problem happens again, having read other posts).

[KATANA MAN]

Many thanks for the info on the tail gate not opening.

Had the same problem with mine last Friday!

Popped the top of the panel off and pushed the black spoon until the tailgate opened.Took out the latch mechanism and pushed the plunger back in and all appeared to be working fine. Re-fitted the mechanism and it worked for a few times then the white plunger jammed on the outward stroke again.

Took the little white gearbox apart and greased everything up with some clear silicon grease and put everything back together!

Now Working great again!

Saved me a lot of hastle trying to find how to get the tailgate open!

Many thanks!

Kat man

[darrell21]

Thank you so much. I managed to repair the tailgate my self. I thought it might be good to ‘celebrate’ my 100th post by putting together a quick ‘how to’ which will might help if / when your tailgate refuses to open! This problem generally is either down to the wiring loom failing where it flexes at the hinge, or the lock itself – however there are also fuses and relays which should be checked before you start taking your car apart!

Assuming the initial checks point to wiring or lock, you’ll need to open the tailgate to remove the trim.

Before you can repair the lock or wiring, there’s a bit of a struggle involved to reach the mechanism.

Lower the rear seat(s) and climb into the loadspace, then carefully ease the top of the rear tailgate trim away from the frame. <IMG SRC="tailgate.jpg"><img src="trim removal.jpg">

Take care as you don’t want to split the plastic.
Once you have created a gap you can look down into the tailgate interior and see the lock, using a long screwdriver, or similar, press down on the ‘spoon’ as shown. <IMG SRC="tailgate interior.jpg"><img src="spoon.jpg">


The lock will disengage allowing you to carefully remove the trim.

Remove the trim around the hinge and inspect the loom which may show signs of wear and tear – repairs will be much cheaper than replacing the section of loom – as long as you ‘re handy with a soldering iron and heatshrink! If like me, you’re lucky the only damage will be some breakage to the insulation – I took a short cut and just used insulation tape to make each cracked wire safe.

To remove the lock itself:

Disengage the arm connecting the exterior handle to the lock, remove the electrical connections and unbolt the lock itself.

Once removed it was easy to see what had occurred – the solenoid had over extended, pushing the actuator arm past it’s normal position so it ‘misses’ the ‘spoon’.<IMG SRC="actuator.jpg"><img src="lock assembly.jpg>

Closer inspection of the solenoid showed that the sliding pin was ‘dry’ and showed signs of binding.
<IMG SRC="solenoid.jpg"><img src="solenoid2.jpg>

I decided to break down the solenoid further, the unit is secured with lugs which can be opened with a small screwdriver.
<IMG SRC="solenoid3.jpg">


The internal screw and cog mechanisms were greased, but the sliding pin had no lubrication where it contacts the housing.
<IMG SRC="solenoid4.jpg"><img src="solenid5.jpg>

Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I cleaned up the pin and filled the grooves with vaseline before reassembling the solenoid into the lock mechanism.
<IMG SRC="solenoid6.jpg">

Refit the lock into the tailgate and reconnect the wiring loom, do not fit the trim until you are happy that the lock is operating reliably!

It's been 6 months since I repaired my V70 tailgate lock and so far the mechanism has operated flawlessly.

[darrell21]

Thank you so much, I can now use my estate for what i bought it for. The tailgate is now working fine. The problem was split wires in the hinge behind the sock. Before i had no idear how to open the tailgate without ripping eveything to bits. Even my neighbours were impressed. Thanks again great info.

[rsxer63]

good info... I was wondering why occasionally the tailgate wouldn't open.

[RogerWalker]

I have actioned all the wonderful advice given in this thread yet my tailgate stays stubbornly unlockable with the key fob. The solenoid is OK as I can manually actuate it with a 12V battery. The little microswitch which closes when the tailgate is in the locked position [and presumably tells the main computer whether the tailgate is open or closed] is OK. The solenoid piston is lubed and free running and the wiring loom that passes over the left side tailgate hinge looks like new with no sign of chafing

I have checked back with a voltmeter to the fusebox in the cargo compartment, the 10Amp fuse [sixth down from the top on left] that the manual says protects the tailgate lock is intact but there is no DC voltage either side of it when lock/unlock is actuated to feed the lock solenoid. The fuse appears to be fed from one of the relays on that fusebank - could it be a duff relay? Without a circuit diagram I am reluctant to delve much deeper without expert help. Anyone out there got access to a wiring diagram for a 2001 V70 2.4T estate please? Roger Walker

[willfromsussex]

Hi Roger (you're only up the road from me) I'm also getting tailgate probs but I think its mechanical binding in the gearbox/plunger area, I'm amazed it can jam itself so much that the motor cannot reverse it!) however thinking about yours, I wonder if there is a break in the harness in the 'sense' (microswitch) wire which means the brain is not allowing the signal to the motor as it still thinks it is open. Have you pulled the hinge cover off and pulled sock along the cable to get a decent look at all the wires? Mine actually seemed ok but the copper had gone quite hard in a couple of the cables, meaning future trouble I expect.

Do you want me to measure my fuse and see if it gets volts when I operate the lock?

[willfromsussex]

pics of harness
http://www.datman.co.uk/v/v70-tg3.jpg

http://www.datman.co.uk/v/v70-tg1.jpg

[Beemer2]

Hi Roger (you're only up the road from me) I'm also getting tailgate probs but I think its mechanical binding in the gearbox/plunger area, I'm amazed it can jam itself so much that the motor cannot reverse it!) however thinking about yours, I wonder if there is a break in the harness in the 'sense' (microswitch) wire which means the brain is not allowing the signal to the motor as it still thinks it is open. Have you pulled the hinge cover off and pulled sock along the cable to get a decent look at all the wires? Mine actually seemed ok but the copper had gone quite hard in a couple of the cables, meaning future trouble I expect.

Do you want me to measure my fuse and see if it gets volts when I operate the lock?

Will,

I have the same trouble and after my Volvo garage had investigated that same harness is now looking a sorry mess having been stripped of its outer sheath then wrapped in black tape for its whole length! Have you investigated the cost of this part of harness?

Beemer

[willfromsussex]

no, I have stripped and rebuilt the locking motor gearbox today and so far it seems to be working. I would never have bought a new harness anyway, just soldered in new pieces of cable.

[xc70jason]

What's the chance of this thread being made a sticky?.It certianly deserve's too be.Regard's jason

[Chris_Rogers]

I have actioned all the wonderful advice given in this thread yet my tailgate stays stubbornly unlockable with the key fob. The solenoid is OK as I can manually actuate it with a 12V battery. The little microswitch which closes when the tailgate is in the locked position [and presumably tells the main computer whether the tailgate is open or closed] is OK. The solenoid piston is lubed and free running and the wiring loom that passes over the left side tailgate hinge looks like new with no sign of chafing

I have checked back with a voltmeter to the fusebox in the cargo compartment, the 10Amp fuse [sixth down from the top on left] that the manual says protects the tailgate lock is intact but there is no DC voltage either side of it when lock/unlock is actuated to feed the lock solenoid. The fuse appears to be fed from one of the relays on that fusebank - could it be a duff relay? Without a circuit diagram I am reluctant to delve much deeper without expert help. Anyone out there got access to a wiring diagram for a 2001 V70 2.4T estate please? Roger Walker

This may help:

[xc70jason]

I myself would like too say a BIG THANK YOU Symes for your very usefull post.I like many other's have benefitted from this as i checked the loom on the tailgate(nearside hinge)and i found two wire's,one black and one yellow to be broken.So,wire's stripped,fluxed and soldered and hey presto were back in action:thumbs_up:.Thank's again,Regard's Jason

[Symes]

Thanks Jason,

But the real thanks has to go to the community as a whole; the information available on this forum is quite astounding! The willingness to share tips and experiences with everyone else is what makes membership here such a positive experience.

[volvomadbert]

Hi,

I am new here so i'm sorry if I am asking a lot. I promise to reply with photos of my endeavour with this problem :notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:

I have a V70 T5 on a 53 plate. Since owning the car the computer has always flashed "tailgate open" and the bulb in the cargo space needed removing otherwise it would stay on. TBH this never bothered me until now. Also the alarm would occasionally activate at quite random times.

Now my boot or filler cap will not lock. I cannot hear the central locking devices operating in either the filler cap or the boot. I have checked the fuses in the boot space and now after looking at this thread I'm guessing its the loom.

So before I don the overalls and get the socket set out, do you peeps think that it is the loom or would a worn out boot solenoid make the filler cap not lock also?

Thanks again for any help, great site BTW.

Bert

[Jim314]

Hi,

I am new here so i'm sorry if I am asking a lot. I promise to reply with photos of my endeavour with this problem :notworthy::notworthy::notworthy:

I have a V70 T5 on a 53 plate. Since owning the car the computer has always flashed "tailgate open" and the bulb in the cargo space needed removing otherwise it would stay on. TBH this never bothered me until now. Also the alarm would occasionally activate at quite random times.

Now my boot or filler cap will not lock. I cannot hear the central locking devices operating in either the filler cap or the boot. I have checked the fuses in the boot space and now after looking at this thread I'm guessing its the loom.

So before I don the overalls and get the socket set out, do you peeps think that it is the loom or would a worn out boot solenoid make the filler cap not lock also?

Thanks again for any help, great site BTW.

Bert

The fuel flap does not lock when the doors are locked. There is a time delay of about 10 minutes after locking the vehicle and then the fuel flap locks automatically.

[volvomadbert]

Ok after reading up some more, I have found that the filler cap does actually work after a time delay.

So i'm guessing firstly I should check the solenoid then the loom?

Also any ideas on the "tailgate open" warning?

Thanks again

Bert

[volvomadbert]

Ok, I have now fixed the problem with the boot not locking and the tailgate warning message.

On taking the tailgate apart, the loom that runs from the left hand side of the boot space had obviously been "repaired" at some point as the whole top section had been stripped back and wrapped in insulation tape. On further examination 4 wires were cut. Someone had obviously just twisted them together in a bodge repair job.

So out comes the soldering iron and some heatshrink. Added a few lengths of wire so that the loom did not stretch too much and hey presto all sorted. Must of saved me a fortune.

Many thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread, you information has been priceless.

Bert

[PatrickTV70]

Am a new member with the same problem. 2003 V70 boot started not locking or unlocking intermittently, then stopped altogether, locked.

Had seen other posts about getting at the "spoon" from the inside to open the boot, and was ready to book it in for a replacement solenoid when I saw this post and thought I'd give it a try.

And hey presto - 3 broken wires in the wiring loom at the boot hinge - yellow black and grey all clean cut. Used some crimp connectors and lots of tape and it's all working fine now.

Many thanks to all who published this info - you've saved me a packet, and a load of grief from SWMBO who's been loading our 7 dogs in and out from the side doors!

[PatrickTV70]

Double whammy! Have just discovered that fixing the broken wires in the loom at the boot hinge has also solved a problem where the rear wiper was not parking in the right place.

Thanks again to all.

[alex1877]

Do you have a picture of what the lock set up should look like? It seems the wiring is fine, the relays are fine but one of the actuating rods that is connected to the door handle assembly and down to the 'spoon' assembly that opens the bootlock has fallen off. I've tried a temp repair but I'm not sure if there are bits missing and rattling around inside the door structure itself.

I've phoned a company about getting spares but I would just like to double chieck which bits I need, any help is MOST appreciated. Thanks guys

AMAZING post by the way !!!!! :)

[V70GUY]

My 1989 V70 tailgate wouldn't open. The locking mechanism worked (moved), and the unlatching rods were all moving as they should, but it just simply wouldn't open (wouldn't turn loose the latch). I love my Volvos, but I think this is a terrible design on Volvo's part. If one little plastic piece is broken (and plastic certainly will break – especially as it ages), the latch will not release, and there is no good way to get it open. You can't even get the latch mechanism out to service it because you have to release it, to get it out to work on it. Anyway, I came up with a way to release the latch (without destroying everything). This is what I did:

I used info I found here in the forum to see exactly where the piece was that apparently wasn't moving to unlatch. Instead of destroying the lock, I went inside, opened the spare tire hatch, and exposed the 2 large Torx bolts that hold the bottom piece that the latch locks onto, and removed the bolts. There are also 4 small Torx screws that hold down the trim that covers the larger latch bolts. You can access the larger bolts without taking this trim loose, but removing the smaller screws allows the trim to lift up enough for the lower piece to come out without breaking the trim. Then I was able to push the tailgate open (with this bottom piece still attached). With the tailgate open, I was able to drill a small hole in the latch piece mounted to the tailgate (see picture). From this hole, I used a small screwdriver to push the inner piece (not sure what you call it – small pivoting piece that releases the latch) and I released the latch. I think Volvo should have thought ahead and put a hole here from the factory. It sure would remedy a serious flaw. Note: Be careful drilling the hole. Use a device to limit the depth to just the metal thickness if possible, because just past this hole is a plastic covered piece that (if not already broken causing your problem) will easily break if your drill pops through and hits it. My hole worked, but was almost too high (in the pic, it could have been more to the left and been even better). In my case the little plastic piece that covers the metal latch release (the piece accesses through this hole) was broken. That's why it wouldn't release. I hated to pay $150 for a new latch, so I went in (removed the 2 Phillips screws holding the plastic top part to the metal bottom part of the latch mechanism) and exposed the metal arm that moves when the rods depress the spoon - that is supposed to release the latch. Since the plastic piece was broken off, this metal arm could no longer reach the latch release piece. So, I straightened the arm, and made a metal extension for it, and riveted the extension in place (just needed to be about 5/16” longer). I put it all back together, and it works great now - better than it ever has before! I think that silly little plastic tab was probably cracked and messed up all along. This car has always had chronic issues with the tailgate being difficult to open. I think I've fixed it, but if it ever messes up again, at least I have a hole there to release the latch!

[Brendan W]

My tailgate wouldn't open and there was no resistance at the manual release. As per the instructions earlier in this thread I prised away the trim above the wiper motor and pressed the little black spoon to release. The motorised actuator was stuck fully out. I removed the motor box , opened it expecting a bit of tlc and lubrication would sort it but it didn't. The rod would stick after a few cycles always in the fully out position. The motor always ran with the actuator rod assembly out. Playing with the box for a while I realised that the plastic wheel was not engaging with the motor pinion properly leading to roughness and jamming. I packed the motor up about 1 mm and bingo the box runs smooth as silk. So far about fifty cycles with no trouble and I'm quietly confident.
V70 2003

[Patdelamare]

I have been trying to unlock my tailgate, everyone who seems to have tried it makes it sound like a walk in the park.

I am having no such luck !!

To try an get a better view I removed the rear wiper, its motor and wash tube all from within the boot space with me pulling on the door trim to get it out.

This motor removal did not help.

I tried to send a PM to the author of the thread Symes only to find that I am not allowed to contact him directly until I have submitted 30 individual threads of my own...

I just cant wait that long, can someone please pass on my thread to him in the hope that I can correspond directly with him


All I need to do is talk it through with him I will call him and cover the call costs. But I do need some help in trying to open this door from within..

I live on Dartmoor Devon, is there a member on the site that lives near me that I could turn to for help.

Patrick.. Cut to pieces and still trying to get the door open

[Brendan W]

Here is what I did to get the actuator running smoother and jam free - a piece of garden center label under the motor.

43088

[Symes]

Patrick, PM sent. Symes

[Patdelamare]

Thanks for the reply, I located the spoon and opened the back door eventually. !!!!

However soon after the repair I was doing it again, released the lock again and then used the cable tie to reduce the over shoot of the motor.

Whilst under test it worked fine, replaced all the furniture around the tailgate and tested again. All fine.

Then some days later the same thing back door locked again.

I checked all wires and they work fine with no breaks!!!

Can you offer any answers as to why I am constantly going back in to locate the spoon release.

Thanks

Pat

Hi,

Just seen your post on the 'tailgate' thread - the restriction on Private Messaging can be a pain, but stops the spammers!

Anyway; I guess that you are having trouble locating the 'spoon' which you need to depress to release the latch; it's not that easy to see from the top, and you will need a long screwdriver or similar to reach down to it (the screwdriver I used is around 12" long plus the handle).

You might find it easier to use a torch to help shine some light down on the mechanism as well.

I'm not going to available until tomorrow afternoon, but if you want to give me a call after 1400 my mobile is 07786 198709.

Simon.

[Brendan W]

IMHO the mechanism is not overshooting , but jamming in the fully out position due to wear between the motor pinion and the worm drive or their centres being too far apart which in my case was fixed by packing up the motor. See posts #52 and #54 above.

[Patdelamare]

IMHO the mechanism is not overshooting , but jamming in the fully out position due to wear between the motor pinion and the worm drive or their centres being too far apart which in my case was fixed by packing up the motor. See posts #52 and #54 above.

I have removed the motor serviced it and replaced it. I then checked the opening and closing of the mecanism all works fine with no over run or jamming.

Replaced the complete lock checked it's operation all fine !! Door failed to open again removed lock again and used the cable tie to reduce the travel from the piston. The lock was reinstalled checked again and facia replaced.

Locked worked for many tries then left it a day or so then tried the lock, it failed to open.

The loom is fine, the lock operates and now stops early with the aid of the cable tie stoping it from over extending.

However tomorrow I will be removing the lock again in the hope of finding the problem.

You have I see placed a slim item under the motor I understand you have done this to ensure good tight interface between the two geared heads.

I do not have a problem with these gear heads they fit tightly together with no micro movement between them. So if I was to insert a pice of plastic under the motor I would place the motor and it's gear head under unnessarry strain. The end result would be a new motor.

Thanks for you input but I will not work on this problem.

Thanks

Pat

[Brendan W]

Bear with me a bit and try a few tests.
Is the actuator plunger locked in the fully out position and can it be freed by pushing hard back in?
Disconnect the actuator box from the lock mechanism and cycle it with the fob - does it lock up after a few cycles.
With the disconnected box in your hand can you push and pull the rod freely and smoothly.
Remove the plastic wheels from the box and will the motor run always.
In my case the gears are slightly too far apart and climb over each other and jam. The little packing piece is not for a tight fit , just brings them closer together and the rod runs in and out very smooth with no noises or locking.

[Patdelamare]

I have removed the lock again!

The lock actuator works freely, it does not lock-up at all!

I opened the motor box and could not get a 1mm shim under the motor as its fit was very snug.

with the box open and connected to a power supply the motor cycles without lucking up, with the internal workings removed and the motor connected to the power the motor runs without locking up.

As the test above did not show any problems I moved on to the metal bars within the lock.

I placed the metal bars on a piece of paper and drew its outline!
I replaced the lock within the car and decided to bend the metal bar to the right towards the actuator.

I thought the bar was bent to much to the left....This is as you look out of the car whilst sitting in the load space, and it was missing the release so with nothing to loose I bent the bar and tried the lock insitu with the fascia off.

The lock is NOW working fine, the bar is now bent to its new position and seems to have fixed my problem. I removed the lock once again and placed the metal rod within the lines I had placed on paper showing the original shape of the bar , I had bent the bar back some 5 to 7mm..

I will monitor the lock with the covering off just in case it fails again.

I think the bar had been bent out of shape due to the high number of times it became dislodged when the lock failed.

Those of you who have had this lock out of the car will have noticed the bar is bent in two distinctive places. I don't think any of us who have fixed this problem know exactly how much these bars should be bent.

I hope I have done enough to ensure the lock continues to open and lock with the Key Fob... if it fails again I will try and bend the bar again.

I will get it right but I cant say when I will do it .......!

[Patdelamare]

My tailgate continues to work, so tomorrow I will be replacing the fascia.

Bending the rod has worked,

I don't know what advice I can offer in tracking this recurrent problem down.

As the first step is to get the door open I have now painted a reflective marker on the lock next to the spoon (release switch) When I now shine a light into the tailgate between the panel and the door the spoon is now clearly seen in the deep dark hole and I can direct the long screwdriver directly to the spoon..(I hope not to do this again, Read ON)......

I think you should check the lock First, if the actuator is locked fully extended I would look directly at the lock and the metal bars that open the door.

I failed to do this and moved onto the Fuses then the relays followed by the wiring loom.

All I feel need to be checked, but only after checking the lock.

As noted in other threads the operations carried out to stop excess travel with the aid of a cable tie THIS works fine the lubrication of the gears within the actuator is a must if the lock is out you must lubricate it not just ignor it and put it back.

The other quick fix of placing a thin shim under the motor if excess movement between motor and actuator gear is present, this also works but I must say never force it in as you can bend the metal arm as it comes out of the motor.

I am glad to see the back of this problem, I will close by telling you what my Volvo dealership said to me!!!!!

"Drop your car off and we will do what we can to get the rear door open it will take about two hours and we will replace the lock as we find them to be the problem most of the time"

If we find other problems we may need to replace parts of the loom as we normally find breaks in the wiring at the junction of the rear door and door hinge, this is an easy replacement however its not cheep.........

This fix cost me nothing but time and the skin off the back of my left hand.

Thanks to everyone for your help and the comments, The initial thread was fantastic the contents and photographs helped me no end, I will never have to release the lock again from the top of the door with a long screwdriver.

I have used a hole cutter to remove a 32mm hole in the fascia directly opposite the manual release spoon!

I done this with the aid of a LASER LEVEL. with the fascia off I set the laser level up pointing directly at the spoon, I then replaced the fascia and with the laser still in position I marked the fascia with a marker and then punched out a large bore hole and secured it back in place with masking tape on its rear. I cannot see the hole punched in the fascia from the drivers seat but I know its there and will use it as and when.

Thanks......

[nigelcarter]

Many thanks for your post. I have put up with a non-functioning boot-lock for more than two years now. Quote from my local Volvo dealer (Carlow, Ireland) to remedy was €350 + VAT. I followed your instructions and found that it was a dried out mechanism. A few squirts of WD40, liberal application of grease and it's now working a treat - although to be sure I won't bother locking it in future - with the price of petrol who would be mad enough to nick it?

Again, many thanks.

[jogler]

I too have a tail lid with a lock that will not open.
Having read this post I have tried,from inside the loadspace,to pull the trim panel away from the door.I can get the panel to move away from the rear windscreen only a short distance ( not enough to see down inside to locate & move the spoon) before it threatens to break the plastic trim around the fabric covered panel.
How far have you successfull DIYers had to pull the panel away from the rear windscreen & have you avoided cracking the surrounding plastic trim?

[Jameshow]

About 3 inches put a shoe or something to hold open the gap while you prod for the "spoon" which is quite hard to find the first time.
From inside the car, its a little way to the left of the solenoid.
yours James

[sylvain bourgeois]

I do everything who was writting on your notes and now my tailgate work.

tanks a lot
I thought it might be good to ‘celebrate’ my 100th post by putting together a quick ‘how to’ which will might help if / when your tailgate refuses to open! This problem generally is either down to the wiring loom failing where it flexes at the hinge, or the lock itself – however there are also fuses and relays which should be checked before you start taking your car apart!

Assuming the initial checks point to wiring or lock, you’ll need to open the tailgate to remove the trim.

Before you can repair the lock or wiring, there’s a bit of a struggle involved to reach the mechanism.

Lower the rear seat(s) and climb into the loadspace, then carefully ease the top of the rear tailgate trim away from the frame. <IMG SRC="tailgate.jpg"><img src="trim removal.jpg">

Take care as you don’t want to split the plastic.
Once you have created a gap you can look down into the tailgate interior and see the lock, using a long screwdriver, or similar, press down on the ‘spoon’ as shown. <IMG SRC="tailgate interior.jpg"><img src="spoon.jpg">


The lock will disengage allowing you to carefully remove the trim.

Remove the trim around the hinge and inspect the loom which may show signs of wear and tear – repairs will be much cheaper than replacing the section of loom – as long as you ‘re handy with a soldering iron and heatshrink! If like me, you’re lucky the only damage will be some breakage to the insulation – I took a short cut and just used insulation tape to make each cracked wire safe.

To remove the lock itself:

Disengage the arm connecting the exterior handle to the lock, remove the electrical connections and unbolt the lock itself.

Once removed it was easy to see what had occurred – the solenoid had over extended, pushing the actuator arm past it’s normal position so it ‘misses’ the ‘spoon’.<IMG SRC="actuator.jpg"><img src="lock assembly.jpg>

Closer inspection of the solenoid showed that the sliding pin was ‘dry’ and showed signs of binding.
<IMG SRC="solenoid.jpg"><img src="solenoid2.jpg>

I decided to break down the solenoid further, the unit is secured with lugs which can be opened with a small screwdriver.
<IMG SRC="solenoid3.jpg">


The internal screw and cog mechanisms were greased, but the sliding pin had no lubrication where it contacts the housing.
<IMG SRC="solenoid4.jpg"><img src="solenid5.jpg>

Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I cleaned up the pin and filled the grooves with vaseline before reassembling the solenoid into the lock mechanism.
<IMG SRC="solenoid6.jpg">

Refit the lock into the tailgate and reconnect the wiring loom, do not fit the trim until you are happy that the lock is operating reliably!

It's been 6 months since I repaired my V70 tailgate lock and so far the mechanism has operated flawlessly.

[volfan]

Very interesting post on solving the problem. However I'm stymied by not being able to access the top of the tailgate trim, in order to operate the 'spoon' to release the mechanism. My trim has a black plastic molding which traps the top of it, and also covers the wiper motor assembly. How can I get this off without breaking it? It seems pretty flimsy.

[Symes]

Hi Volfan,

I'm guessing that you have a later 'Phase3'??

The models I've worked on don't have a black plastic trim... the carpeting continues to the 'edge' which is nex to the glass - it's been easy to slide a flat bar down to ease the trim away.

I doubt that the fitment is much different on yours, it will just be a matter of gently prying in various areas until you see some movement... you might find that the mechanism itself differs to the ones I've posted about too - so be prepared to experiment!

[volfan]

Hi Symes - Thankyou for the reply.
I think I might have been under the impression that the plastic trim should release upwards, instead of away from the glass. I'll have another go!
:thumbs_up:

[volfan]

Hi again - Ive solved the mystery of the plastic trim on the rear tailgate. I found that one has to slide back (towards the inside of the car) the small seperate top section that covers the wiper motor arm pivot. The top edge of the trim is them released by pushing downwards which allows 4 clips to slide out of captive slots:thumbs_up:. The main trim panel which is fastened to the plastic section, is then easily pulled back to allow access to the lock mechanism. Mine is different from the one shown, but it was a simple matter to push a quadrant shaped level over to the right, and hey presto - the tailgate unlocked. The only problem I could find without dismantling further was a loose bolt at the bottom of the mechanism which presumably helps secure it to the tailgate frame. I tightened this up, and applied a little silicon grease to the moving parts. It all now appears to work OK. I'm just wondering whether it's worth making a small mod to the main trim panel to create a small covered access point in case this problem re-occurs. Anyway, I hope this info might be of use to anyone with the same trim arrangement on their V70.

[Symes]

Thanks for the update!

If at all possible, could you take a few photos of your trim, wiper motor and lock, and post them up so that we can see the differences??

[mrc1501]

I couldn't get my tail gate open the other day when my battery went flat. There was just enough juice to allow the central locking to open all the doors, but the tail gate would not open :mad:.

I only wanted it open to get access to the battery, so after clambering over the rear seats and removing all the dogs beds, etc (was on a day out!!) via the side doors, it was at that stage when you sit back and think, "what a ****ing stupid design not to incorporate an internal door release!! My Classic V70 had one on the tail gate, and all the other doors have both internal and external door releases.......so why not on my XC??

What would have happened if I had the extra seats in the rear and wanted to get out of the car quickly!!

Anyway, it was at this stage when the AA man turned up........and quickly pointed out that I had a battery charging point under the bonnet...to which he quickly attached his jump start kit and sprang the car back into life.

I wonder if anyone has retrofitted the Classic V70 tail gate internal release to the series 2.........or do I see a project looming.........

[Brendan W]

Afaik there is an internal release device that goes with the 7 seat conversion kit.

[chiptivo]

mine has a hidden cover just above the rear number plate that has a mechanical lock to use with the key??? am I the only one?

[mrc1501]

Afaik there is an internal release device that goes with the 7 seat conversion kit.

Can this be bought separate from the kit, and what exactly does it look like? Anyone confirm or have a piccy?

[Gpaul]

Thanks for all the info, to get the trim off the V40 the plastic trim at the top has 4 push in clips 2 either side of the wiper arm and their are 2 more on the outer edges of the carpeted part. I found the reason for mine not working was that the rubber seal around the actual key/press actuator had perished and was jamming the pusher. Removed it and all works perfectly, will get a new one from Volvo and should be able to slip it back in without removing the cover inside the car.

[Marmitespreader]

And i thought that the circled indentation was a rear view camera mounting point :lightbulb:
An optional manual lock.

[anthony chambers]

Latest Update: I decided to stop being lazy and I removed the linning around the wire loom and guess what - not one but three wires were interrupted and one had lost its pvc insulation!! I repaired and it's working flawlessly! I guess I was (un)lucky when I measured the current and detected it whenever I clicked the remote...
Bottom line: lazyness won't save me money! Hard work will!

Manuel from Portugal.

Having read your update I was anxious that my same problem was not the same as yours, however as soon as I opened the silky cover of the loom, I was amazed to see the very same broken three wires. Thanks for giving me the confidence to open up the loom. Soldering a fresh piece of wire into the circuit was a little tricky, but as soon as I had insulated the wires Bingo! problem solved.

[Qube]

Firstly, thanks to Symes and others who have posted very useful information here. It's great that you share so much information.

I have the stuck boot on a 2003 XC70. I have gained access thru the back panel. In my case it seems that the connecting arm from the lever to the lock has broken/become disconnected. I have pressed down on the spoon, but can only get the lock to half disengage -it is being held on the lock, as if not properly closed. I've tried pushing hard, bt managed to slip with my screwdriver and snap off a piece of the white plastic close by. My question: can i remove the rear panel by pulling it off, with the boot lock only half disengaged? Is it screwed around the edges or underneath?

Alternatively, any other advice of how to proceed? I've tried to reconnect the connecting rod, but iit is really tricky to se anything by trying to work from above and my hand is suffering from bruising and cuts from my earler attempts.

Many thanks, in advance, for an help or advice.

[Symes]

Hi there, sounds like you might have take quite drastic measures.... the trim is held in by two torx screws in the 'pull pockets ' which you normally use to close the rear hatch! And the lip on the edge will be held by the rubber seal.

It might be a good idea to price up a replacement from a breakers yard and use a padsaw to cut out the section of yours to gain access to the mechanism.

There are certainly posts about the actuating rod bending and / or coming loose which may well have been the root cause of the problem in your case.

[Yosser]

Thank you to the OP for starting this thread and sharing his findings, and also to everyone else who has chipped in.

The tailgate on my V70 failed to open this week and, after reading this thread, I was able to open it from the inside and start to fault find the problem.

In my case it wasn't wiring but it seemed that the actuator was perhaps over extending and causing the mechanism to seize.

I lubricated the motor/gears/shaft and also popped a cable tie on as per an earlier thread.

So far so good!

[telcod]

Thank you for your information it was wonderful. Our locking mechanism went bad, purchased a new one put it in and tested it enough, so we thought. Put all trim back on and closed it and latch wouldn't open:( Had to do it the crawl through way and reach the spoon, not an easy task. Our problem was that the white plastic piece on the actuator or bell crank won't hold the metal arm. We have one on order. Your post saved us. :thumbs_up:

[teshu]

Not been on the Forum for some time,
However just got a V70 t5 with stuck tailgate and this thread showed me how to fix the problem. My actuator arm had come out of the mechanism.

All fixed, many thanks.
:thumbs_up:

Alex

[V70UBK]

Not been on the Forum for some time,
However just got a V70 t5 with stuck tailgate and this thread showed me how to fix the problem. My actuator arm had come out of the mechanism.

All fixed, many thanks.
:thumbs_up:

Alex
Similar problem with my V70 [2001] but 2 questions:

1 Is tailgate relay identical to rear door lock relay, if so can I swop them to see if faulty relay is the cause, otherwise,
2 Is it possible to remove solenoid motor without having to remove entire tailgate lock assembly?

[october37]

My fuel filler flap has never worked, but I never bothered trying to fix it. Post back it you make progress, I'll help if I can.

You probably know this but there is a time delay on the fuel filler lock, this is to give you time to refuel at filling stations after locking the car so that you can lock the car, refuel and go to pay as the fuel flap locks itself. Its usual time is 3-5 minutes but can be altered by a Volvo dealer.

Keith 55reg V70SE D5 185 AWD Geartronic

[Qube]

Thanks for the suggestions Symes.

I eventually got it open, after one last try before the brute force method was going to be deployed. You were right it was a connecting rod problem, the rest of the lock and servo work fine.

[bOBS888]

Firstly many thanks for the post regarding the tailgate. It was extremely helpful and gave detail that was not obvious until you take it apart and expose the mechanism. My fault started with the cable breaking in the area of the ns hinge, I soldered the leads and confirmed electrical continuity to the solenoid using a multi meter. Having confirmed electrical were now OK the solenoid was stuck fully extended. Having removed the mechanism I dismantled the motor box cleaned and greased and reassembled all OK. Then it came to reconnecting the rods. The central bracket has 2 white plastic clips holding each push rod sadly one of these broke. Went to Volvo for a new clip. This was not available you need to purchase the bracket with the rods attached for £4.50 (part no 8643069) easily fitted now everything works as it should. I need to point out that great care is needed in opening the tailgate. You need to ease the panel cover inwards to allow you to get access to the release catch (the shoe) without too much strain as the plastic sides will crack, the shoe which is well concealed beside the push rod. The item you are aiming for is a black plastic box approximately 1 cm square with raised sides. I used a long screwdriver with the end bent slightly to ease locating the socket, I straightened it after! Having removed the inner panel the repair is straight forward as described earlier. I am very grateful for the initial post which gave me the confidence to do the repair.

[oakbaybc]

Have followed instructions in Mr Symes post, and no matter how hard I press
down on the SPOON nothing releases! Am I missing something?

[Symes]

Hi Oakbay,

I think the root cause for you will be broken wires in the loom at the hinge... but you need the tailgate open to get to them!

It's quite a while since I've had to look at my lock :-) but be prepared for some discomfort as I think you need to get your hand down to the lock and manually trip the latch...

Earlier posts suggest that it might be possible to unbolt the bottom striker plate from the spare wheel well, but it could be only on P1 models....

At worst you can always use a padsaw or brute force to remove the trim more fully to gain unrestricted access to the lock and get a replacement trim panel from a breakers (price it up first, before wrecking your old one!).

Let us know how you get on!

[oakbaybc]

SUCCESS! From the inside of the cargo compartment, after removing the
boot storage lid, and the cover to the wheel well, all the screws holding
the plastic door sill to the chassis were removed. A large screw driver was
then wedged between the tailgate base and the door sill and and a gap was
pried open to gain access to the lock piece that holds the door closed.
Another screw driver opened the lock piece and the tailgate opened.
Now I have complete access to the mechanism and will do the trouble
shooting to see why it is not opening normally.

Thanks for the help on this. oakbay bc canada

[Symes]

Glad to hear that you've managed to get it open - this will give people a good alternative to try if they're struggling with the 'from the top' method.
Should be fairly easy to find the reason for your lock failure now - thanks for posting.

[oakbaybc]

Mr Symes

Just to close this off , it appears the problem was a seized latch. Once I had the tailgate open I was able to get the latch to open and close easily after the application of some waterproof grease to the mechanism. It now functions perfectly and has been doing so for a couple of weeks.

Thanks for all the advice and enabling me to fix this for the price of a tube
of grease instead of the $300 the garage was estimating to trying to solve
the problem!!!!

oakbay.

[Symes]

Good news that you're back in action again!

A stuck latch is a new one! But probably explains why the 'from the top' method wasn't working - another 'root cause' to add to the list here.
Thanks for letting us know.

[simpsont]

Before I was a member of this forum I could see the links to the images in the first post on this thread but couldn't open them. Now that I have registered and logged in I cannot even see the links. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!

[xentronic]

I need help urgently with the pictures too - have just logged in and can't see the links in the first post .... and I need to 'unlock' my tailgate. Could someone email me the photos rob@xentronic.co.uk

[Symes]

Sorry, I'll try to upload them this evening.

[Symes]

For some reason I don't appear to be able to edit the original post to include the pictures again... so here they are!

[fjllondon]

I was trying to get at my stuck lock mechanism for ages, not understanding why I was having so much trouble getting to it when the descriptions said it was easy. Then I saw the picture of the rear hatch from the inside posted above - on the 5-seaters there's no internal hatch release! On a 7-seater there is one, smack in the middle of the hatch, and until you've figured out how to remove the trim around the lever there's no way the hatch trim is coming off. The trim forms a handle for closing the hatch from the inside, and is as solid as a rock.

The trick is to use two screwdrivers. On the top side there are two slots, one on each side. Place one screwdriver in a slot and lever upwards (not what you might expect). Place the other between the handle trim and the carpet and try to lever it out. Applying pressure inwards (towards the lever) with the first screwdriver flexes the trim enough to release the barb, and it should jump out under the pressure from the second. Do the same on the other side and it'll come right off. If you have a friend and four screwdrivers you can do it in one operation :-)

In my case I'd already forced off all the other fixings, so when the handle trim was finally released the whole door trim naturally landed on my head.

What wasn't obvious when I started was that the release handle remains in place with all the trim removed. It has a push-rod that goes in a non-obvious place to the right of the spring on the child-proof lock (if you're sitting in the boot). That was a surprise - when I unscrewed the opening lever it just dropped out, although it looks like the push-rod would have needed to be detached. Luckily I'd photographed it first.

One advantage of the 7-seater is that you can open the hatch from inside easily enough BUT ONLY IF THE CHILD-PROOF LOCK IS OFF. This is manually operated using a switch on the bottom edge of the open tailgate. Make sure it's off before your solenoid fails!

I have photos, but I'm new around here and not sure how to post them yet.

(Incidentally, my problem appears to be a loose connection on the solenoid connecting plug - put a bit of pressure on it and it works, take your finger off and it doesn't. Where did Volvo get these horrible connectors? My car (a V70 MkII) is full of them!)

[yellowbird]

For some reason I don't appear to be able to edit the original post to include the pictures again... so here they are!

Thank you for re posting the photos
I finally got my tailgate to unlock but in the process
managed to detach the rod at the top?
but
I'm making progress and want to say how much I appreciate
this post THANKS AGAIN

[colm123]

Many thanks for this post, such a simple job which could have cost a fortune if taken to a garage.
Cheers

[patstan]

I was experiencing tailgate lock problems, I found this thread and after a very long time i eventually opened the tailgate.

I followed the repair instructions and the lock continued to work for about a year.
I thought long and hard and decided to take a hole cutter and with a 32 mm hole cutter mounted in my drill I approached the rear door panel.

I cut out the hole and LUCK WAS ON MY SIDE, I placed my finger through the hole and pressed the door opener.

The tailgate opened. With the tailgate open and the inner door panel removed I replaced the tailgate lock. I placed contact tape on the inside of the door trim and pressed the removed circular plug covered with carpet back into the hole and there it remained never to be noticed by any one travelling in my car.

Then the locked failed again. This time I just pulled out the plug that I previously cut out and pressed my finger through the tape that the plug was attached to and pressed the door release.

This was the best thing I had ever done to address this recurring problem.

If you would like further info as to how to drill this hole drop me a line you will never have to remove your rear panel again nor will you be trying to find the release spoon from the small opening that you try to create when pulling the inner panel away from the rear door.

It's really a simple job. I will provide you with pictures if needed and measurements from land marks from within the rear compartment of the car.

You will compete this job and have no skin removed from your hands and fingers when completed.

Best of luck

Regards

Pat

[Symes]

Thanks for the post, but it sounds to me like you may have a further problem considering the number of failures you've had - unless you use your tailgate an awful lot!

I'd be inclined to check the wiring continuity for breaks in the loom at the hinge, a slightly bent actuator rod or duff relays or their connectors in the n/s rear.

[richlm]

Found this topic via google, it prompted me to join the forum:thumbs_up:

Rear wiper has been stopping in strange places for a while, numberplate lights not working, and now the tailgate wont unlock.

I managed to get the tailgate open (btw images that are gone from original post are reposted by the author on about page 10). Got to the wiring loom near the left hinge, wires looked like new after removing the trim and tape, but i tugged on a few individually and 4 came right out of the sheath!

Found the soldering iron, planning to do the repair this weekend.

Not sure atm how best to get to the ends of the wires hidden inside the braided sheath. Will see if I can take away more trim and pull the sheath back to expose the wire ends. If not I will cut it laterally, and patch it up with tape. Will take some pics of that exercise and post a new topic (unless I can find one already here).

[Brendan W]

Found this topic via google, it prompted me to join the forum:thumbs_up:

Rear wiper has been stopping in strange places for a while, numberplate lights not working, and now the tailgate wont unlock.

I managed to get the tailgate open (btw images that are gone from original post are reposted by the author on about page 10). Got to the wiring loom near the left hinge, wires looked like new after removing the trim and tape, but i tugged on a few individually and 4 came right out of the sheath!

Found the soldering iron, planning to do the repair this weekend.

Not sure atm how best to get to the ends of the wires hidden inside the braided sheath. Will see if I can take away more trim and pull the sheath back to expose the wire ends. If not I will cut it laterally, and patch it up with tape. Will take some pics of that exercise and post a new topic (unless I can find one already here).

Wiper problem could be a wire but could also be the spindle seizing. Worth taking it out and regreasing anyway before it strips the teeth from the 'not available separately, Sir' gear wheel.

[DW04XC70]

Hi...im new here...found this site while searching for a fix for our problem....excellent info...verry helpfull!...but need more help.

We have a 2004 XC70 we recently bought. We have had several times where the rear tailgate would not open smoothly. We had to push in, then squeeze the handle, then open the gate. I started looking for a service manual to see if there was some adjustment to fix the issue but have not found any printed ones.

Two nights ago, we got home from a trip and locked car. Later i went out to get something and the doors and tailgate would not unlock. The remote would not operate the locks for the whole car. the interior light would come on but no click from the locks. I could unlock the drivers door with the key, but it would not unlock the other doors. The lock button on the drivers door would not unlock the doors either. The red light on the dash was blinking like normal. I tried starting the car and putting in in gear then back to park to see if that would help. When the car was running the check engine light was on and the dash lights were out. The little red LED on the dash was still blinking with the car running. I could back the car up, but it did not want to move foreward...it felt like a park brake was on.

I could manually unlock the doors and they opened and closed ok. I could not get the tailgate to open. I thought the problem may be caused by a tailgate latch malfunction. I found this site and this thread on how to get the tailgate open from the inside. The instructions I found here worked great! I was able to pull the cover back enough to use a long screwdriver to push the lever and unlatch the tailgate.

I don't see any obvious problems with it. I can move the solenoid back and forth and I can see how it moves the rod away from the lever or back into the correct position over the lever. It moves, but i can feel that i am turning the electric motor with some resistance. It probably needs lubricated.

I checked wires at the hinge and did not see any obvious pinch marks. I have not tried to cut away the outer cover to see the condition of the wires inside yet.

After freeing up the tailgate, the remote still will not operate any of the doors. It seems like the security system is not turning off or something like that.

Has anyone had a stuck tailgate cause the electric lock system to not work?...or is this possibly a weak battery in the remote? ..or any other ideas on what is causing this?

sorry for the long post

[DW04XC70]

Hi ....here is an update on my issue.

I checked the car battery (in the back near the tailgate) and it has just over 12.5 volts. It has a sticker indicating it was manufactured on 09/2012 so it is under 2 years old. I started the car and checked again, it now had just over 14 volts as it should, so that ruled out a bad battery. while the car was running the dash gauges were not working and the red alarm led was flashing.

I decided to start pulling fuses to either disable the alarm or reset whatever went bonkers.

I pulled the #38 alarm siren 5 volt fuse and the siren went off. After a few seconds it quit. The remote would still not work the door locks. The main switch on the drivers door still would not work the locks. I put the fuse back in and tested again...still not working.

I tried pulling fuses 35, 36, and 37 for the door and power window system and checking the locks and still nothing. I tried pulling fuses 21 then 24 for the extended distribution relays and checking the locks and still nothing.

I pulled #34 for the sunroof module and still nothing.

I pulled fuse #32 for the central electronic module, courtesy lights..... the dome lights no longer responded when the remote buttons were pressed. When I put the fuse back in, I heard several clicks that sounded like the door locks started responding. I hit the lock and unlock buttons on the remote 2 or 3 times and all the door locks started working. Now the remote works just fine. All the doors and the tailgate lock and unlock as they should. All windows go up and down again. I started the car and all the dash gauges were working again. :thumbs_up:

I am not sure what caused the malfunction, but by pulling #32 I was able to get it to reset and start working again. There is one exception...the SRS module service urgent message is lit in the message window and the alert triangle is lit. Anyone know how to get that reset?

[Draazon]

Hi. Thanks for your post re tailgate wont open but there are no thumbnails at the bottom of the page so I cant see the "spoon" image. Can I view it please?

[Symes]

Hi Draazon,

The pictures seem to expire after a certain time.... but if you look at post #96 on page 10 of the thread you'll find them there.

HTH

Symes

[nycnftm]

Found this topic via google, it prompted me to join the forum:thumbs_up:



Me too. Hope I finally get it open!

[nycnftm]

Moving this

[pd154]

I have many of the same issues as DW04XC70; the doors and tailgate would not unlock. The remote would not operate the locks for the whole car. the interior light would come on but no click from the locks. My dash lights were either off or very dim unless I move the headlight switch either on or off, either turns the dash lights on! Couple of days ago I had a intrusion alarm show on the readout, but there had been no intrusion. I could unlock the drivers door with the key, but it would not unlock the other doors. The inside buttons for locking would not work. (I did get all buttons BUT TAILGATE to lock/unlock with a sunroof/lock reset procedure from elsewhere on this site. Pulling fuses did not seem to remedy my hatch being locked.
My lock seems to be stuck on, I cannot push the white solenoid "ram", "shaft", back at all, the spoon will not contact the rod and unlock. Can I just cut this white solenoid "ram" off, as I really don't ever need it locked anyhow.
Thank you!

This is on a 2001 V70XC

[pd154]

Chopped of the locking "ram", stabilized to the other piece there, the white piece, and it seems to work well.

[zijldun]

Thanks for original post from 2008, still useful 2015 (V70, 2001 reg) - just fixed stuck boot (had to make hole in trim to access opening spoon / catch but once boot was open just followed instructions...
I couldn't open pictures from original post - I contacted Volvo forum but they said pictures lost in server change last year. Doh! Just seen pictures posted #96!

[Larryjw]

Thanks for the detailed post! On my 05 plate V70 the tailgate wouldn't unlock, and the rear wash-wipe stopped working it seems at the same time. Unlocked the tailgate today (using your method) and then tried to find what must be a faulty connection. Had to take out 5 panels to get to the corner for the wiring harness (good job there is a lot of load space in the V70 to put it all...). Then cut back a bit of insulation tape at the top and bottom of the fabric and rubber sheath that "protects" (that's a laugh!) part of the harness that goes through the hinge and into the car, so I could pull it back and inspect the wires themselves.....what did I find ? 5 (yes five) completely separated wires !!! I suppose the car is 10 years old, so that must be a lot of opening & shutting the tailgate, but smacks of inferior quality wiring to me. The harness is not made in Sweden, I won't say what's on the label, but you get my drift. Anyway, five crimped connectors (and a great deal of panel re-fitting) later and everything now works - but I'll get ready for the next batch of broken wires in due course. Thanks for the original post, and later comments; all very helpfull. Not a difficult job in the end, but a lot of time taken - and a lot of money that the Main Dealer didn't get - cost me £1.50 for the connectors!!

[Brendan W]

cost me £1.50 for the connectors!!

You was robbed :)

[Itsmemrb]

I thought it might be good to ‘celebrate’ my 100th post by putting together a quick ‘how to’ which will might help if / when your tailgate refuses to open! This problem generally is either down to the wiring loom failing where it flexes at the hinge, or the lock itself – however there are also fuses and relays which should be checked before you start taking your car apart!

Assuming the initial checks point to wiring or lock, you’ll need to open the tailgate to remove the trim.

Before you can repair the lock or wiring, there’s a bit of a struggle involved to reach the mechanism.

Lower the rear seat(s) and climb into the loadspace, then carefully ease the top of the rear tailgate trim away from the frame. <IMG SRC="tailgate.jpg"><img src="trim removal.jpg">

Take care as you don’t want to split the plastic.
Once you have created a gap you can look down into the tailgate interior and see the lock, using a long screwdriver, or similar, press down on the ‘spoon’ as shown. <IMG SRC="tailgate interior.jpg"><img src="spoon.jpg">


The lock will disengage allowing you to carefully remove the trim.

Remove the trim around the hinge and inspect the loom which may show signs of wear and tear – repairs will be much cheaper than replacing the section of loom – as long as you ‘re handy with a soldering iron and heatshrink! If like me, you’re lucky the only damage will be some breakage to the insulation – I took a short cut and just used insulation tape to make each cracked wire safe.

To remove the lock itself:

Disengage the arm connecting the exterior handle to the lock, remove the electrical connections and unbolt the lock itself.

Once removed it was easy to see what had occurred – the solenoid had over extended, pushing the actuator arm past it’s normal position so it ‘misses’ the ‘spoon’.<IMG SRC="actuator.jpg"><img src="lock assembly.jpg>

Closer inspection of the solenoid showed that the sliding pin was ‘dry’ and showed signs of binding.
<IMG SRC="solenoid.jpg"><img src="solenoid2.jpg>

I decided to break down the solenoid further, the unit is secured with lugs which can be opened with a small screwdriver.
<IMG SRC="solenoid3.jpg">


The internal screw and cog mechanisms were greased, but the sliding pin had no lubrication where it contacts the housing.
<IMG SRC="solenoid4.jpg"><img src="solenid5.jpg>

Nothing ventured, nothing gained, so I cleaned up the pin and filled the grooves with vaseline before reassembling the solenoid into the lock mechanism.
<IMG SRC="solenoid6.jpg">

Refit the lock into the tailgate and reconnect the wiring loom, do not fit the trim until you are happy that the lock is operating reliably!

It's been 6 months since I repaired my V70 tailgate lock and so far the mechanism has operated flawlessly.
hi was wondering if u still have the pictures to this thread as have issues with my tail gate. thanx

[4candles]

88037


Don't think she see's too good, but eventually i think she may just get your catch working... ps. stand behind her! :thumbs_up:

[Symes]

Hi itsmemrb,

The photos are on page 10, post #96

Hth

[mattyda23]

will this method work on a 2008 v70??

[Symes]

Hi mattyda23,

I'm afraid I don't know the answer to that one... I've only done this with the Phase2 models - although I can imagine that the design of the P3 isn't much different...

You'll probably be best posting the question in the P3 section. ;-)

[StuAgain]

My '99 V70 had the stuck tailgate and after getting the trim off from the inside, checking wiring and greasing solenoid, still jamming! Found that the 7 seater has an internal release handle (sensibly), so examined the mechanism and saw that a rod could be attached to the white plastic actuator via a plastic catch.
Useful wire from a coathanger suitably bent, attached to the plastic catch and a couple of holes drilled through the internal metalwork and the trim and bingo a release lever topped with a knob from a golf tee fitted to it after the trim replaced.

[53catalina]

Does anybody have the measurements that Patstan mentions below. I need to start drilling this weekend to get access to my boot :-(



I cut out the hole and LUCK WAS ON MY SIDE, I placed my finger through the hole and pressed the door opener.

This was the best thing I had ever done to address this recurring problem.

If you would like further info... I will provide you with pictures if needed and measurements from land marks from within the rear compartment of the car.

Regards

Pat

[gary9990]

For some reason I don't appear to be able to edit the original post to include the pictures again... so here they are!

hi, I have a Volvo v70 & the tailgate is stuck shut, my problem is that the tailgate trim has grey plastic trim all around the carpet trim,do I need to pry the plastic trim away before I can start on the carpet? I don't want to destroy the panel as I had a similar problem with a rear door lock on an s80, real pain!

[gary9990]

bear with me, I have only just joined, I am rubbish with computers at the best of times!

[gary9990]

same question, measurements for drilling hole for access to lock on v70

[Backo]

Years ago I cut that U-shaped flap and managed to get to the lock.
Not the prettiest though if the tailgate trim is your pride and joy ;)

[gary9990]

hey backo, I like you're style! my previous post was nonsence, ther is no plastic trim, I must have dreamt there was. I have now managed to pull away the panel where it meets the glass. however I cannot see the spoon, looking at you're picture, if I drill a decent sized hole, would you say where abouts would be best? middle of your square? up a bit, down a bit etc!! cheers anyway, best advice yet:thumbs_up:

[Backo]

hey backo, I like you're style! my previous post was nonsence, ther is no plastic trim, I must have dreamt there was. I have now managed to pull away the panel where it meets the glass. however I cannot see the spoon, looking at you're picture, if I drill a decent sized hole, would you say where abouts would be best? middle of your square? up a bit, down a bit etc!! cheers anyway, best advice yet:thumbs_up:

I'd say the lower the better and slightly to the left of the middle - it was 4 years ago, memories are getting rusty.
I think if you're careful with the saw (fine tooth) and cut in straight lines (unlike me) you'll end up with a result looking better than a drilled hole.

Good luck

[gary9990]

thanks, mate i'm gonna close my eyes & go for it, I have 3 kids & a wife that loves shopping...........limited options

[gary9990]

hi, YES! managed to open tailgate. I pulled out the carpet trim 3 inches & managed to get my arm to the spoon it took a couple of minutes to locate as you can't see the thing, but as the light is now fading, i'll carry on with this in daylight. the problem iv'e now got is that the actuator arm is missing the spoon, but by quite a distance! do I need to take off the entire lock to sort this properly?

[Winny P]

Hi all, I've stripped the panels off and the wiring seems fine.
Checked the wiring continuity from the lock to the LHS speaker molex connector and all fine aside from one yellow wire I can't account for. Wiring on the outside all fine, no visible breaks.
Fuse fine. Swapped the relay with the matching one below and no change either. However it appears that the push rod from the handle doesn't appear to push anything that activates the latch.

Please see the short video and let me know what you think.

https://youtu.be/kKD2UxYugwc

On an unrelated note I think the battery went flat whilst I troubleshooting an indicator bulb. Turning the key lights up the info panel as usual but no start & indicators & central locking off (start motor fuse and relay seem fine)... not a productive day.

[gary9990]

hi winny, I think we have the same problem, or in my case 2 problems! the actuator bar in my case is not making contact with the spoon by quite a distance & I can't see a way of connecting them. I also do not seem to have power to the actuator. I have located the loom on the left hinge & it is covered with tape so I assume that this problem has occurred previously............I am about to strip the tape away & see what's going on. any advice on reconnecting the actuator rod would be apprieciated

[gary9990]

SORTED! 10 minutes after my last post I went to the & crawled into the back (again) the actuator arm was in it's correct place, ie in the spoon. I realised that the plastic piston was jamming from the solenoid & the actuator rod was disengaging from the spoon. a bit of wd40 on the piston & it is now ok. I probably should now strip down the solenoid & grease it but knowing my luck, I would not be able to put it back together

[Winny P]

Just went back and saw some pics and explanations earlier in the thread. I now get that the black fitting needs to guide the rod back onto the spoon when the solenoid engages. Need to test the with some voltage next as all but one cable tested with no shorts and looked fine when I opened them up

[gary9990]

tailgate stuck again with a bootful of stuff!. on inspection of the mechanism, I found that the plastic piston from the solenoid was sticking again. a squirt of wd40 released it, but I know it will keep recurring. I am very reluctantly going to take apart the locking mechanism & solenoid. really getting bored with this now!

[Backo]

This is how one becomes an expert!

[gary9990]

this is becoming a saga! tried to undo the 3 screws that hold on the lock & I have managed to round one of them off because I used the wrong size torx bit, when I manage to get the lock off, can anyone tell me where I have to place the cable tie to stop the actuator arm overshooting? I cannot find photos on any posts. please help!!!!

[peterjmatcham]

Hi. Pat. I have a V70 2001 (X reg) and have a stuck tail gate lock. can you pass me the dimensions and measurements for the HOLE cut to access the release mechanism. Strange how Volvo neglected to include a mechanical release for these models. Best regards.
Peter

[gary9990]

peter, the best way to deal with this is to pull away panel at the top where it meets the glass. I managed to pull it away about 3 or 4 inches & placed a piece of wood between to save crushing my hand! I reached down & found the spoon in about 30 seconds. if you look down the gap you should see a white triangular plastic thing, the spoon is in that area, it is a small plastic square, you need to push down quite hard to release the catch. once you get the tailgate open you can then clearly see where to drill a hole if you feel it needs one

[Backo]

this is becoming a saga! tried to undo the 3 screws that hold on the lock & I have managed to round one of them off because I used the wrong size torx bit, when I manage to get the lock off, can anyone tell me where I have to place the cable tie to stop the actuator arm overshooting? I cannot find photos on any posts. please help!!!!

I must have pulled the tiger by the tail with entering this thread... just the other day my actuator gave way too. Having the trim already cut a few years back (for a broken handle) came handy.
The actuator was jammed and initially I thought it was overthrown. I even went so far to install a pair of 2.5mm thick rubber stops inside it's box to prevent it from happening again.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/x7UwK2jacDZniijIPoJ0ZpT9fxE8D-sJHA6upFt9dmgLfeUFTCevMdh5_EwUiB0jxwX99Hj0f23yVf26 ilMWZ15_MHQ0BtmxpaoaGUURgOI9G92dIMCzvVIytRHYumm4Ak 01sjosFWz0BlUDs84fYNz6gJlbiYJ-MeTMsd2dVQ11et6srQYSb9I0B8VNObUOL2OdO02kynF4kVvYu5 hna8Aypc7SpAGd2O4cnNdIv-PoB1q2PMYllY97vQAczWKE3yem4iLtZQPAYHMCYLgK8-ORvgGy1ftTYW5DYNgy-QTAIezrlkWXtuWza3BdzhKWK6950UrrWT1jXwXa-9sSKDEi8ik3xQd3kfggACO6LuBu-N6Mo8hfGX-g517PHghzAgQN0tyMtuzVCBkdGeRxjlAmH2jro3oHZ5vUizzOI G6rEhLU-BSHGWVK6CKowe5JOH1-8MKuykKUoVY6TGxztjIF1N17xorUJ1BkCS3zoFzrqk1alwcdIQ H8TYtrZghnDO2yG8OpXu_HnLan7qAr6845en_l76Gs60Nh6A0e 72PBrroFhdBhcJwB5gemUtvvxCFG=w890-h667-no


However it kept on jamming with the stops on, even when operated outside the lock - just on its own.
So I figured out it must be the natural wear and tear that has caused the plastic rotor to get loose in its bed and its teeth jam against motor's pinion. It only happens at the end of the locking, but not the unlocking cycle, as the direction of rotation pushes it up against the cover.
So a few winds of tin foil around the so-called bearing surface and liberal lubrication brought back the snug fit.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/MswBnnaToXWk7jC5lxujq1BB8FvSFVKNtw2S43GAhysMedXDej dFL1ypFlEeRoHXUmMNmGkTcXcsrsiw_m24X-ud4gL-BSYBe7j-2rP_-35tyiIWcftViOV7lvkpM4JNYdFM1_ax-ulNDs4MgAdmF0VSscmwa40gaO3RrWmn4dNI7lceXG68zc5Vw3I PIb6ZL-U6dYIQb482A0yEJHLXteJM6afuE3MH1m8ZYCwhVI0ILJff_IcM kGUYb3rtlTTYBSkS--hriAe96Bnhj8AYBPw32gLz3cZ072a5KpRa-uXvz3AiR0MLdZmeKq4VRAj1dir5uNtNQIHm7ZrIZRoOyPMi24O m25EbJIxmnmdXWR83W4nQvNM_8Z7apyX6Il7ARUaWFkt1713kl CQwcvapLtGKUeflmj0YS_y1M-N63GwB80MT4Q2FWBKDZvasb2u36j3YqfdCz_W3GPrgS7WYrkFv UsSKRweeYYko83ozFCy8Fhlzfrlp8LlzKNqmzUbLYt-pNpp1Rgk00RfZ1GYXDq5mrXSLeMcGz2Ocs7bMTNwGKo5K4eYvI dQ5MqyciizQsSPy=w800-h600-no

I tested it at least 50 times on the bench - no issues.

[Scotty86]

Hi folks could anyone please post a photo of this 'spoon' that must be pressed to activate the mechanism? I can pull the trim back so far but can't see anything obvious, and of course blindly fumbling around down there isn't getting me anywhere... any help is appreciated!

[Symes]

have a look at post 96 on page 10 - those are the original photos.

[Stephen0523]

Would someone be able to repost the pics? I have a 2002 Volvo XC70 and I am unable to open the tailgate.

[Symes]

As above, page 10, post 96 has the photos reposted. can't edit the original post to add them back in the text...

[Madge]

I'm locked out of the tailgate on my V50 and these instructions sounds perfect but how do I access the images?

[jasmith44]

Go to http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=58099&page=10
and look at no.96

[Madge]

Because my tailgate is locked and won't open I have researched threads like at this forum from all over the world. Sadly getting the interior wall of carpet off without breaking the plastic cover at the top, doesn't seem possible, so before I do that can anyone answer these questions?
1. as there is no fuse for the tailgate is it a sensible first step to check the switch gear (easy to remove and access) is working?
Can an auto electrician test if the switch is working?
2. there is no discernible click or power noises when I click the remote. Is that indicative of a root cause?
3. Would a lock smith be able to force open the boot from inside without removing the interior
4. I can't find an earlier post that referred to cutting a hole to access the switch gear. Does anyone recall that reference and is it applicable to the V50?
5. Finally, despite these issues I love my V50 and would like to get another that has a sly key hole or other method of opening the tailgate in case of power failure. Any suggestions?

[Madge]

Pat, where did you cut the hole? do you have a picture - my V50 is stuck/locked closed and I am getting desperate.

[Stephen0523]

Hello. Not sure if this will help but in my XC70 I was unable to unlock the tailgate. I replaced the motor and checked the wiring only to discover it was a faulty relay
I have labeled the relay as it is difficult to find a diagram of which relays control which device. The one just below controls the fuel door release.
image here.

[patstan]

I have recently returned to the forum, and found various threads asking me for the placing of the hole in the tail gate cover to release the rear door.

I will ASAP provide some pictures and with the aid of a large tape measure give you the correct positioning of the hole cutter.

Having gone through this thread from start to Finnish, its still causing many Volvo users a problem.

I will say this, the large hole I cut into the tail gate cover that enabled me to place my finger into the door mechanism enabling me to open the tail gate is almost invisible when replaced.

When I cut the hole I used a new sharp hole cutter ensuring a clean plug removal.

I placed my finger through the hole pressed down the spoon and when the rear door opened I removed rear door cover, fixed the problem with the rear lock then used strong Gorilla masking tape to cover the hole and with the tape in place I stuck the cut out onto the masking tape and gave it a rub over with a stiff brush that brushing stretched the door fibres to mix with the door covering.

Once done you will find it hard to find, a friend of mine place a piece of string through the centre hole held in place with a strong paper clip and a duffle coat button on the front hanging inside the car. this he has used more than once as he's reluctant to pay out for a new lock mechanism. and he's really happy with the repair..

If you need this information and I do not answer your request for help please PM me as I do not use the forum all the time.

I will try and get detailed pictures and measurements on site very soon. I am really sorry for not getting back to members who asked for HELP...

[Bruce W]

Does anyone know where the photos are that relate to the original post?
I'm trying to work out what to press down on behind the tailgate panel to release the door lock.
Many Thanks

Bruce

[TCK]

Thanks for this post. I have latch problem on 1995 940. I cannot access your photos. Can you explain?

TCK

[vickyg]

Would love to see the pictures referred to here but none of them open, is the post too old?

[Stephen0523]

hope this helps.

[Symes]

Post #96 on page 10 has the original photos. 😃

[pierremcalpine]

here's a video I put together late last year when my tailgate decided to quit.

At 36s in you can see what part of the actuator you need to press down on to open the inoperative tailgate.

At 2min in you get a better appreciation for how to access the little "spoon."

https://www.youtube.com/edit?ar=2&o=U&video_id=QPgYHSKdv9Q

[austinpbooth]

I found the threads really helpful but after 6 hours of trying various tips, I traced the issue to the molded (to the handle) lug. It was cracked and the previous owners attempt to super glue it had failed.
I degreased all the parts then put the broken parts together using copious amounts of epoxy. I then fitted the cover/small lever that connects to the rod that goes over it and again covered them in more epoxy. Care needs to be taken to ensure you don't cover the flexible handle seal that the lug is molded into as, obviously, the epoxy won't flex when hardened.
I placed the handle assembly in a warm dry place to allow the epoxy to cure overnight.
Refitted this morning using plenty of lithium grease and it works a treat. Will it last? I don't know but I might buy a used one, fix if necessary, and keep as a spare just in case.
Hope this helps someone and they don't have to suffer my headache. I'm happy to provide further details if required.

[scmike]

Sadly the pictures have gone or the links have been removed... would be helpful since I have right now that issue with my 2004 XC70

[Symes]

The pics went as part of a server move many moons ago, and unfortunately the earlier posts can't be edited.
But, the pics are reposted (only the pics) on page 10 of this thread, post number 96.

Hope that helps.

[JoeNinety]

Youtube link tidied up!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QPgYHSKdv9Q

here's a video I put together late last year when my tailgate decided to quit.

At 36s in you can see what part of the actuator you need to press down on to open the inoperative tailgate.

At 2min in you get a better appreciation for how to access the little "spoon."

https://www.youtube.com/edit?ar=2&o=U&video_id=QPgYHSKdv9Q

[JH10]

The images listed at the top of this article all look correct but when I try to open them with a click (or two) I just get a black screen.
Are these not available now or am I doing something wrong.

Thanks for any help.

John

[Symes]

Pictures are now in post#96 on page 10.

[Nomadjun]

My 2008 xc70 have the same issue with tailgate stuck and can’t open. Bust I can’t see any spoon inside trim, seems lock is different to V70. Anyone has idea how to open the tailgate? Thanks.

[dhvinev70]

Patstan: You may no longer have the Volvo but if you have info, it would be appreciated. We have a 2002 Volvo V70 and battery is dead and jump starting is not doing anything. We need to access the battery; the tailgate is not opening so any help would be appreciated. Many thanks, dhvine@yahoo.com

[Bob E]

Hello Funny I'm at the same thing !!!
You can get at the battery from inside the car.. I undid the mounting or cover plate and disconnected the negative terminal from the battery and am at this moment recharging the thing...
I had tried charging through the terminal on/near the engine but the ammeter
went bananas ...
So now I'm up to about 12 .4 V but still at about 5 Ah so I'm waiting for a few more hours...
Something funny - it was a new battery just before "Lockdown"
Good luck
Bob E

[Crash Bang]

I have had this a few times as it happens.

Not sure if the V70's are all the same or if what worked for mine will work for you. I also tried to charge the battery through the +ive post in the engine bay and using a battery charger. That did not work for me.

What did work was to leave the headlights on and then put 12v via jumper leads directly to the +ive post and the -ive to a good solid ground in the engine compartment. I left it for 5 minutes and then used the key fob in the normal way. You may first have to lock and or unlock the car on the fob once or twice.

No subsequent electrical problems that I know of.

[dhvinev70]

Finally managed to get to the battery. On this particular car, jump starting did not work. Started no longer clicking when turning key. Managed to get to battery from inside the car, removing all covers and the handle in floor opened the panel that gave access to the battery area. After getting all the bolts off and the base metal retaining panel, we were able to get the battery out of the car. It only had a 3% charge and required a new battery. Hopefully this is the end of the saga.
It is unbelievable that there is only 1 key lock to unlock this car. I would have thought safety regulations would have required another for the tailgate.

[saturnfive]

Had mine go as well. It was the solenoid jammed in the locked position. Interestingly, after lubricating it inside, when I lock the car with the tailgate up and the trim still off the solenoid seems to go hard against the stop and the arm bends out a little just before relaxing back a moment later as the solenoid de energises. Pretty sure it must be this over extending issue that jams it. Have given everything a clean and fresh grease. Just have to hope it holds. Great thread and the pics on page 10 really helped.

[jnmonaghan]

On models with rear facing child seats, there is a key entry lock on the tailgate - to the right of the number plate illumination. And an opening handle on the inside of tailgate.

Jude

[stuart bowes]

On models with rear facing child seats, there is a key entry lock on the tailgate - to the right of the number plate illumination. And an opening handle on the inside of tailgate.

Jude

this makes make me wonder if it's possible to attach something like a bike brake cable to the inner workings which are presumably the same(?) and add a discrete little ring pull on the inside of the boot door in case of this happening

[jnmonaghan]

this makes make me wonder if it's possible to attach something like a bike brake cable to the inner workings which are presumably the same(?) and add a discrete little ring pull on the inside of the boot door in case of this happening

I have already done as you suggest, on my daughter's 2002 VW Beetle

Jude

[JoeJoe1971]

I back hatch is closed and will not open.
I crawled in the back, opened the Plastic and carpet back panel.
The rod was not in the receiver cup(black plastic piece), I placed it in, nothing is happening.
I locked and unlocked several times!
Is there a way to manually open?

Is the White Ppastic rocking piece the actual lever?

Need Help Please!!

[stuart bowes]

the metal rod is moved side to side by the lock actuator, so in the locked position the rod misses the black cup when you pull the handle.
When unlocked, the rod is pulled back again and does hit the cup

the handle moves the rod up and down

to open it manually while looking at the mechanism, press downwards on the black cup bit

(Assuming 2006 is same as 2001)

[Christerart]

Ha!

One of my XC70's is a P2 2005 SE D5 auto. It's been sitting for some months, just starting it up now and then, battery more or less (pretty much less) maintained with a Halfrauds solar panel.

The other day I realised the trunk would not open up - when trying the handle it was like there was no linkage at all, although I could hear the mechanism lock and unlock when I pushed the lock/unlock on the on the key fob

I read this whole thread from start to end and wasn't looking forward to go thru the hassle described by so many, so I thought "Let's make sure the battery is fully charged and take it from there.

I hooked up my trusty 5 amp CTEK and put it on recondition (I do that once/year anyway) and a couple of minutes ago my wife crawled into the back and as she pushed with both feet against the hatch I pulled the hatch handle while simultaneously unlocking the car from the key fob.

The hatch opened up!

Closed it and again pulled the handle and the hatch opened up like it always has.

As soon as the reconditioning is finished, I'll lubricate the lock and metal parts with some WD40 - and lubricate the rubber around the hatch as well and also make sure not to let the car sit for months without opening the hatch.

[Klopotec]

Hi is there by any chance that you send me the pictures on my email, because for some reason i cant open them on forum.

Kind regards!