AW 55-50 Transmission Glad to help!

[instrumento]

I am amazed to see that all over the world through the different volvo forums ive come across this transmission has been the bane of so many! well I have had my love affair with this transmission for quite some time now, in fact it has been an obsession. all I can say is....... there is always a solution. fire away il be glad to help out as best i can and save you a lot of trouble.:lightbulb:

[Bernard333]

In England we can buy any number of Volvos quite cheap due to having a faulty AW55-50SN and there are lots of them on the road with faulty boxes where the owners just keep running them , I have a 2001 V70 2.4T which I bought for spares but I want to get it running properly again . Do you think that an amateur mechanic could take one of these apart and rebuild it without having specialist equipment ? I am willing to risk trying because there is nothing to lose because if I cant get it working right then I will use the car for parts but I am told it cant be done . One problem I see is there are parts suppliers in USA and one or two in Sweden but they want to sell complete kits of parts when you may only need one clutch band or one small part which they wont supply on its own . This box used in the Volvo I am told is very similar to those used by Toyota / Vauxhall / Nissan plus others but how similar is it , can you directly interchange all the parts because if this were possible it should mean the parts could be sourced cheaply , do you have a good parts supplier ?

[instrumento]

Hi,
first you have to describe whats going on w/ the gearbox? is it shifting hard? slippinig? what gear? does it happen often or once in a while?... with regards to your other question , if you have the spare time there is no harm in opening up the box, it can be done, but it does need some form of specialized equipment if you might call it that. im refering to the volvo diagnostic equip. so you can reset adaptation values for the TCM. in my experience these boxes even when they dont run anymore rarely burn their clutches & band which is what conventional diagnosis and thinking might suggest. as a further suggestion I would recommend doing a pressure reading first and il help you interpret the readings. it gives a significant description of whats wrong inside. yes this box is used for many other makes usually you can interchange the hard parts ie. planets & drums also linings. the only thing to watch out are the solenoids some makes use different configurations ie. normally open & normally closed. Automatic chice in europe is a good source for parts ive got some from them and im half a world away.

[Jim314]

The auto tranny on my 2004 base model V70 2.4 non-turbo 168 hp is an AW55-51 S as best I can read the metal tag. This is a 5-spd auto, but without the 'Geartronic' shifting. So do I have it right that this tranny has not had the troubles the Geartronic ones have had?

[instrumento]

hi,
you have the upgraded ones,. but on a side note the aw 55-50's geartronic or not suffer the same problems especially the 2001 -2003

[strongbow]

Hi
Do you know what is happening to my gearbox please, its a 2001 AW55-50SN that, only sometimes shifting up from second to third will let the engine rev to about 4/5K rpm and then change with a mighty clunk and then for the rest of that journey the gear changes will be sluggishly erratic. Once the engine has been restarted everything is fine again.
To be honest I'm not that worried about it as it only does it maybe once every two weeks but I would like to know!
Thanks in advance.

[Timberwolf]

I think that will be the valve body.

What happens in that case, from what I understand, is:

1. TCM requests second gear disengage and third gear engage.
2. Pressure valve moves, gearbox disengages.
3. Pressure valve moves, third gear engaged.

(Not sure which valves are involved, although I think from what I recall 3rd gear involves the well-known B4 solenoid.)

If you get a delay between (2) and (3) above, then the gearbox will be in neutral for a time and the engine free to rev up. This can be caused by old fluid causing the valves to stick, or some other valve body problem. The B4 servo cover is also a problem on 2001 boxes, serial numbers around 01C-01L (March '01-December '01 build date) if I've remembered correctly.

The danger is that the sharp "lurch" is two bits of gearbox moving at very different speeds coming together - a bit like revving up the engine then dumping the clutch in a manual. It's what, over time, helps cause the entire box, rather than just the valve body, to die.

btw, have you had the B4 servo cover checked out? It's a known issue on 2001 models, and 2-3 shift flares are one of the most common symptoms for it having failed. Dead cheap part, saves replacing an entire gearbox later.

[sae70]

I've just been reading 'bout the B4 Servo Cover problem experienced with some 55-50SN box's & wondered if mine hade the matching Serial Number.

Info on my box is, 55-50SN, 9480902, SN 00KV717736

I just wondered if anyone could tell me how this information reads?



I copied this from a B4 Servo Cover thread;

The first 3 digits of the serial number on the affected transmissions will be between 01C (March 2001) and 01L (December 2001).



So looking @ the SN on my box it looks like it was made prior to the ones with the doddy B4 Servo Cover?!:)

Can this info be relied upon?


Regards


Steven

[kdst5]

I have also wondered about this. I have a July 2000 V70 and the 2 to 3 gear change can be a bit slow to changed up the first time I run the car from cold. The ATF has been replaced and the box seems fine a part from this.

Regards

Karl

[Timberwolf]

Does it behave itself once the car's warm?

On these boxes there's a "catalytic convertor protection/warmup mode" which delays upshifts until the engine reaches a certain running temperature, which helps the cat get to temperature earlier and prolongs its life/improves fuel economy.

It's actually nowhere near as bad on the Volvo as my old (four speed auto) Omega with a similar setting, which I swear had a thing for making me look a right idiot on winter mornings as I went roaring up the road with the engine at about 4000RPM in first. :-)

[kdst5]

Well it behaves itself after the first 2 to 3 gear change.

The 1 to 2 gear change is fine then the first time it changes 2 to 3 it wants to rev to about 2,750 rpm, everything OK after that until it's cold again.

[Speedy]

I've had my 2005 D5 for 7 months now. Now the honeymoon period is over i notice that mines a right arse (not difficult, but not smooth) to go into and out of P. Is this the design of the box. All other gears & changes are silk. Car has 78k miles. A;so would the box survive if i got it chipped?

[R2C70]

Hi Guys...

I've got an '04 C70 whose transmission has been shifting hard lately. Mostly on the down shift (decelleration), but now it's doing it on the up shift (accellerating).

AT fluid has recently been changed, but performance has not improved. Maintenance Manuals are not readily available either... (at a reasonable price).

Got any ideas to share?


R2

:pizza:

[instrumento]

hi,
have you got any codes? dtc's present? it would be a good idea to start with that,.. if you dont get any try to observe if it gets worse while the engine has been driven for a long time /normal operating temp or does show up when it still cold or it doesnt matter both? also did it improve when you drained or flushed the transmission?

[R-P]

Someone offering help on the AW55, COOL.

Let's start off by saying: I'm not sure I HAVE the AW55, as the computerscreen at the Volvodealer showed "AW50/51" iirc.

Just ran outside and the box itself says on an "Aisian AW" sticker: 55-51
03LV706106
8675 147 (these two numbers are under eachother, therefor I placed a [space] between them).

Problem I have is a message in the dash reading : transmission service required (it's actually the Dutch version, so this is not literally what it says!)

Symptoms:
- the "D" in my display disappears and a 'minus-sign' takes its place,
- the power is (...even...) lower than normal, especially in getting rolling/getting off the line
- I am missing 5th gear,
- the geartronic manual function is not available anymore and
- the cruise control indicator turns ON, but the function itself is not available.

When hooking up my recently acquired ODB reader I get P0748, "Pressure control Solenoid "A" electrical"
Also some other codes, but lets stick with the P0748 for now... :)

Any thoughts to what specific problem this is?
I want to check all connections of the solenoids (which one specifically?), but I do not know where to find them exactly, so help is appreciated (if needed I could remove the air-box this weekend?). I tried to have a look just now, and there appear to be some wires coming out of the box and connectors that are between the radiator and the air-box/EGR return elbow thinghy. May post a pic up later. (But beware I have a LHD, the (UK) description for changing the transmissionfluid I did 2 days ago called for the drainplug to be obscured by the rear-brakelines, but on my car they are nowhere near the drainplug :). This drain/flush with 14 liters is afaik not related to this issue, but had been planned since before the issue arose. The issue was there before and after.)

Someone linked this (http://avtopedia.ru/akpp/AW55-50%20SN.doc) and I located the thinghy in the first pic that sticks out to the front of the car that seems like a cover. Is this where the solenoids are hiding? Can I simply unscrew this cover and the solenoids (apart from the 3 that are matched to the housing and should NEVER be removed according to this paper) and thus test them?

Help is VERY, VERY much appreciated!!!

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/4210/errorcodesvolvo.jpg

[Moondust70]

One of the common issues with this box is the delay to engage drive. When cold it is almost instant ......... when hot, going from either reverse or neutral to drive has about a 2 or 3 second delay and the drive is taken up with a thump. However, when a restart is made (i.e engine off, engine on) then it will engage drive instantaneously (i.e. no noticeable delay). It could be a sticking solenoid, but the fact that it never occurs on a restart makes me think it is software related.

......... I think that this maybe something to do with the adaption settings and I keep meaning to have them reset when I have the time.

The delay issue causes no codes, no fail indication, and has been like it for the last 25K miles. I have changed the fluid and this made no difference. The car has done 76K

[h4auto]

Hi Guys...

I've got an '04 C70 whose transmission has been shifting hard lately. Mostly on the down shift (decelleration), but now it's doing it on the up shift (accellerating).

AT fluid has recently been changed, but performance has not improved. Maintenance Manuals are not readily available either... (at a reasonable price).

Got any ideas to share?


R2

:pizza:

s60 with the same Deceleration hard shift at about 5 mph. Sometimes.
If i erase the "check engine" light it runs smooth. 90% of the time the s60 runs SMOOTH. sometimes it has the hard down shift.
2001 s60 base model non-turbo.

thanks from hawaii

[duke666]

Greetings all have a 2001 y plate V70 T5 AUTO not tiptronic , had in local auto trans specialist for a code read and oil change , only code was a slipping clutch sinse then drove only about 100-150 miles and now nothing .The car started to really struggle to get up a hill then when I thought it was ok again had total loss of drive .Had to get car recovered and is now sat on my drive. The car will start no problem and will on occassions go into all gears but only for a few seconds and then nothing . Any thoughts would be appreciated thanks Ian

[mds]

Hi you say you had the ATF changed recently what ATF did they use?
If you put anything but JWS 3309 spec ATF in these boxes it can cause serious problems.
Check your invoice or ask them quietly what they if they used Dextron you could have problems.

[bubbster]

HI,

Thanks for that attachement on the AW55-50.

I have a 01B serial number? I have the exact symptoms below (lifted from the attached doc) - which have been intermittant which has led me to believe that this is electrical;

Description: This transmission relies on adaptive data to properly adjust the shift pressure. If the adaptation is not complete, it may result in one or more of the following:

• Harsh flare. Engine RPM will increase during a shift. This symptom feel like the transmission has lost drive. It usually happens during the 2-3 shift.
• Harsh down shift. Bumpy down shift when the gas pedal is odd (Zero).
• Harsh Garage shift. Sever bump when engaging forward or reverse from park or neutral.
• Harsh engagement control. After coming to a complete stop in drive, with the foot on the brake, the TCM waits for 2 seconds and then disengages drive to reduce emissions. This disengagement is not usually felt by the driver. If adaptation is not complete, then a “thud” will be felt. A harsh re-engagement will also be felt.

Any one got any advice? I will try to reset the adaptive settings, but unsure if this is all it will take, or whether this will re-occur.

ALso, I broke two of the orange rubber gasket seals on the electrical connectors from the Tranny when inspecting (to clean contacts and investigate). Any hints as to how to replace these - if needed?)

Was also wondering whether the B4 servo cover was easily replaced, or is it an engine out job?

Many thanks

[mds]

The B4 Solenoid is a fiddle to do but not difficult Volvo sell the repair kit (they call it a piston repair kit Rufe on here can help Doves if your desperate) its not expensive about £15 I think.
I used to have several V70 P2 in my business we had the flaring between 2/3rd changes on 3 of them as a precaution we changed the B4 cover on all 6 I also got into the habit of flushing the ATF every 50k after reading up on the American Forums (year was 2002).
You will need room to work under the car so up on stands or ramps. Take off the under tray M10 bolts if I remember.
At the rear of the transmission angled down you will see a large (about 60mm dia) cap with a raised cross on it, this is held in by an internal circlip. Remove the circlip access is tight but you can reach. With a large pair of grips rotate the cap using the raised cross the spring pressure will push it out, have some rag ready there will be a dribble of oil if the piston comes out push it back in.
Inside the cap you will see a hardened washer if this is loose or has come away that is your problem.
Use transmission fluid to lubricate the "O" rings on the new cap and push it in fit the new circlip, clean the area run the engine and check for leaks. Replace the under tray job done. Myself and one of my engineers became pretty quick after the first couple.
Finally Flush the Transmission then go to Doves to have the fluid counter reset and software upgraded. My understanding is you should only need Adaption if you have had major surgery on the gearbox.

When I sold the business I kept 2 of the cars and one of the engineers took one to be his personal car he is now over 250k and pulls a caravan?
So with good maintenance these boxes are tough.

Have you had the codes checked to make sure you don't have other issues?? You are not far away and I have a reader if you don't?

[bubbster]

Have you had the codes checked to make sure you don't have other issues?? You are not far away and I have a reader if you don't?

Just read the codes myself, there seem to be 2 p codes from the transmission module;

P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor A Circuit (PRNDL Input)
P0810 - Clutch Position Control Error

Also, when I scanned the Volvo specific code I also got these two;

0039 - Gear Shift Position Sensor Faulty Signal
012A - Neutral Check Faulty Connection

(are these the same issues reported differently by the reader??)

Any hints on these issues? Are they related to the shifting problem.

Also would like to know how/if I can reset the adaption, and the emmisions warning light on the dash with the reader (EU702)

Thanks

[mds]

The EU 702 has a page which reads something like
Read Codes
Store Codes
Erase Codes
Just scroll down to the erase codes and press OK light out. Remember if you haven't repaired the fault it will come back.

Regarding the Volvo specific codes they indicate poor connections, have you tried unplugging the main transmission harness on top of the box and cleaning the plug and socket with electrical contact cleaner?
The see if it improves things.

With the EU 702 you can store codes in the reader for reference later

[Chris_Rogers]

Just read the codes myself, there seem to be 2 p codes from the transmission module;

P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor A Circuit (PRNDL Input)
P0810 - Clutch Position Control Error

Also, when I scanned the Volvo specific code I also got these two;

0039 - Gear Shift Position Sensor Faulty Signal
012A - Neutral Check Faulty Connection

(are these the same issues reported differently by the reader??)

Any hints on these issues? Are they related to the shifting problem.

Also would like to know how/if I can reset the adaption, and the emmisions warning light on the dash with the reader (EU702)

Thanks

0039 indicates a fault with the PNP switch on top of the gearbox

012A could be one of the following:

Shift solenoid S1 has jammed in the OFF position
-Shift solenoid S2 has jammed in the ON position
-Solenoid SLT has jammed in the OFF position
-Internal fault in the gearbox
-Defective control module.

It is to do with the automatic neutral selection when halted for a while.

I think you need to investigate the connections to the PNP switch and possibly replace it.
For the second fault I'd start with getting the software updated to get rid of the neutral function, this may well get rid of the problem.

[bubbster]

thanks, I cleaned the four connectors in front of the air box, front right of the engine compartment above the tranny (cables run back to the tranny), which seemed to help - although lost the orange rubber seals, which disintegrated on two of them, causing greif in reconnecting the connectors.)

Can you be more specific which one is the PNP switch? I have concerns about one of the contacts - looks a bit suspect.

Thx

[Chris_Rogers]

Here's a link for the 850, yours will be similar.

http://volvospeed.com/Repair/pnpswitch.php

[ashokdeepa]

My 2001 2.4T, 137K mint condition, wife drives it displayed this message:

Trans service required

my equus obd reader said: P1619 Fault...AW 50-52...

So I took ti to jiffy and for $120 they flushed the trans, torque converter and put new oil.

Reset the obd and the car runs ok but it still kicks on downshift and gear engages and slips at the light.

So..I called a used volvo place and the part number is:
Transmission Part No : 9480902

Now the KICKER.
The seller says:

I give lifetime replacement warranties on most of my inventory.
However, this particular transmission comes with a 90-day parts warranty and sells for $1175.

So that means that this transmission is defective even I get a repalacement one.

So what is my best plan.

Best
Ashok
Valley Forge, PA

[sidmon]

Got a 2000 V70 2.4T with none geartronic automatic code 55-50SN and serial starting 99J with a strange issue. Vehicle drove fine with no issues up until battery flattening (not completely flat but wouldn't start car). Jumped off another vehicle and car started and was given a good run and battery gained charge and no issues. Car not driven for rest of day but then next day autbox now clonking into drive on occasions and is rough changing. I've taken vehicle to trusted transmission specialist who tested car for a while and believe the valve body requires replacement. A Volvo specialist then had a look and came to the same conclusion.

Problem is the car is intermittent with the problem and at times drives fine, but then can rough change, and very occasionally can lose drive altogether for short period. Been reading about the B4 Servo cover but are these affected and if so how do I go about examination.

[BobS]

Hi Sidmon,

The box is controlled by one of the electronic 'brains'. This could have been confused by the low battery problem. It is worth resetting this and getting it to re-learn. I understand it can take 4 or 5 days to re-learn?

To reset this either means a visit to the local dealers or alternatively disconnect the battery for around 24 hours. Remember to use Volvos method of re-connecting the battery. See atachment.

It’s worth a try. Cheaper than letting the spannermen loose....

Bob

[silverback02]

Hi there,
Would you have any idea about the above Auto box.? Starts off brill when cold, then when hot goes into "Limp mode", sets off in third, won't change up to 4th, Turn engine off, then restart works ok for 5 mins then back to limp.
Has selenoid "A"performance stuck off, performance on code reader.
Any help appreciated.
cheers,
joe.

[sidmon]

Changed the B4 Servo cover but to no avail. Gearbox drives fine when cold and also when at speed on motorway but once gearbox has got hot and is on a stop start run it "bangs" into gear which literally feels as if you've been hit from behind (it's a horrible feeling!).

Is the box scrap or is there something I can do?

[Chris_Rogers]

Have you changed/flushed the fluid?

[sidmon]

No but the colour looks OK and I'm just wondering if it would sort a problem like that? I know your thinking you've got nothing to lose by doing but I don't want to throw more money at something to find it's made no difference!

[Chris_Rogers]

Others have reported improvment by having the software updated to remove the stop/neutral function, have a search, don't think it's expensive.

I'd suggest that replacing and flushing the fluid would be a good idea as well. Fluid may look OK on the dipstick but I think you will be surprised how black it is once drained. Should not cost more than about £70 if you can DIY and use Vauxhall fluid.

[sidmon]

The car is question has 12k miles on it and was main dealer serviced upto 108k and 2008...wouldn't the software have been updated by them? Has anyone else had the "shunt up the rear" transmission effect (sounds rude I know!).

[sidmon]

Being a 2000 and a very early Phase 2 V70 it shouldn't have the stop/neutral function from what I've been reading, only 2001 and 2002 models??

[homer]

well i have one of the 2001 s60 2.4t with the gearbox problem
i have posted up before about it but to sum it up its now been over 14 months with the car going back to the main dealer, rebuild of my box and new torque converter, several trips back with problems, box back out 3 times and rebuilt, last time a new second hand rebuilt box was fitted, ive done about 1500 miles since about 14 months due to it being off the road at the dealers (grantham volvo) the box still takes time to engage drive then slams into gear! putting god knows what kinda strain on the other components!
i find it sad to say but im at the end of it all now so i have two options..drive to grantham and stick it through there showroom window or part exchange it for another make..NON volvo
sad really as it has been a great car, but volvo just wash there hands of it after taking the money for the bodged repairs
if you have the same problem then from my experience then just cut your loses and get rid of it ASAP
and steer clear of grantham volvo they really dont know what they are doing!!

[sidmon]

Is there a full proof way of testing whether it still has the stop/neutral function still?

[sidmon]

Flushed and changed the transmission fluid through today with some Vauxhall fluid, only problem is I've gone to check the level and it's well over the level it was before on the dipstick. Am I supposed to drive the car to get the fluid circulated thereby removing any air that has been introduced by the flush.

[Chris_Rogers]

Best to check the level after a run of around 20 mins, gear lever in park and engine running.

However if it's well over the top I'd suck/drain some out before driving it far.

[mds]

As Chris says don't drive with an overfull box drain or suck some out. Find a good Auto Box Specialist, the good ones will be able to hook up the transmission to a diagnostic rig and tell you (1) If you have a problem and (2) Exactly which area it is in. Electronic control, Valve body or just good old wear and tear.
If they are maintained these AW 5 speed boxes are as tough as old boots.
There was a well documented issue with Valve bodies in the US porosity if I recall so if a box has been rebuilt and the original issue was Vale body its just transferred to the refurbished box? New valve bodies are like Rocking Horse xxxx I am told.
A good specialist diagnostic session should only cost about £40 and you get a print out, I had it done on a Merc E55 it helped a lot in discussions with the Dealer who denied there was an issue told me it was my driving style???

[sidmon]

Diagnostics has already been done with no fault codes. After changing the fluid for the GM/Vauxhall stuff mentioned in another thread the vehicles drives better and hasn't as of yet "kicked in the back" like it was doing when hot when changing down. Stil think though that it has the stop/neutral function on it.....is there a definite test to see if it has it and what am I asking the Dealer for if I wanted the TCM software updated.

[mds]

Hi
Don't confuse a "code reading" session with a full diagnostic session for a modern Auto box with electronic control.
I had an E55 that suffered really harsh changes 3 visits to the Dealer (2 year old car 26k) the dealer kept the car on each occasion. The conclusion from the dealer "no fault codes" so no fault? He even told me it was my "driving style" as they could find nothing wrong.
I was recommended to an Auto Box specialist in Portsmouth by a business colleague, the rig they hooked the gearbox up too gave information on,

1) Analysis of ATF and condition
2) Hydraulic pressure at each of the control solonoids
3) Electrical circuits and continuity (it is computer controlled they dial in the car/box etc and the machine does the rest)
4) ATF temperature

The ATF in my box had a high alloy content, there was either a leak past a solonoid which was causing a pressure loss on 2-3 changes (in English Big Thud the dealer couldnt find). The same fault showed on two other solonoids.
As the pressure loss was consistent the conclusion was a porous valve body.
Porous valve body problems with the 6 speed box were well known in the US.
So armed with the print out and print outs from a couple of US websites back to Mercedes GB who straight away acknowledged the problem and contacted the Dealer. A new box was fitted at their cost within 10 days.

The specialist didn't even have to drive the car and the whole process took just under an hour.

[prionailurus]

Hi
I do love the auto box, but it seems that sometimes it will change slowly 4th to 5th, and the revs will drop from say 1800 to 1500 ish, but over about 4 seconds. Cold/warm makes no difference, only difference seems to be throttle position, if I'm getting up to speed it will change gear quickly and there's no noticeable delay. If I'm easing up the speed slowly 1mph/sec then the delay is more noticeable when it changes to 5th at about 41mph.
Is 5th gear the lock up on the torque converter? In which case I might be having a "lazy lock up"?

[GREGGY]

I have a 2002 V70 D5 with 5 speed auto, When warm the reverse is very poor and the car seems to Judder whilst reversing, when the car is cold no problems in Reverse, Any thoughts ?

[Nick44]

I have got the book for this gearbox in Adobe format if anyone wants a copy.

[bogart]

I have a 2002 V70 D5 with 5 speed auto, When warm the reverse is very poor and the car seems to Judder whilst reversing, when the car is cold no problems in Reverse, Any thoughts ?

Are you pinching mt thread? Only joking. If you trawl back through old threads you will see I have posted a few on the exact same subject.
My V70 behaves exactly the same, when cold fine, when warm okayish, when hot damned useless, severe judder and all.
Been like it for over 9mths now, still no further to solving the problem!
Done all the normal things ie check ATF level, ATF fluid nearly new etc etc
Read heaven knows how many articles on umpteen websites. I am of the conclusion that
it is some solenoid internally, the number now escapes me. frankly I've given up I've wasted so many hours taking this out, that out etc.
Once it's through it's MOT it's going.

[v_matt_v]

I have got the book for this gearbox in Adobe format if anyone wants a copy.

Hello Nick,

PM sent

[Nick44]

Very surprised at the number of requests for this, so here is a link.
It's not the whole thing, but never the less very useful.

http://www.sonnax.com/tech-articles/PRE-ATRA08-RCW.pdf

[prionailurus]

I have got the book for this gearbox in Adobe format if anyone wants a copy.

yes please

[silverback02]

Nick44.

Cheers mate. :thumbs_up:

Joe.

[easyonthegas]

Also have aw55-50 problem with harsh changedown from 6th to 5th (thud heard) especially when towing - sometimes even going into neutral. Geartronic operation and all other changes fine.
Checked at Volvo dealer yesterday who gave me fault code TCM 0002 indicating solenoids problems. If any solutions out these I would be grateful to know or contacts in N England of who can now help, as Volvo dealer quoting new box at over £4k
Once sorted, I will let you all know!

S60 (06) geartronic

[Chris_Rogers]

AW55 is a 5 speed box, 6th to 5th?

[aitch]

Joined the forum today and overjoyed to find that my V70 is nt the only one in the world with an auto gearbox fault.I have a 2000 V70 T5 with 130,000 miles and it is slow to change from 3rd to 4th, only when cold.Once warm the fault does nt occur again.
I had the transmission fluid changed recently and it seemed improved for a couple of weeks,now its slipped back to its good old ways.I m wondering if its worth changing the fluid again as perhaps I did nt get all flushed through the first time or could it need the B4 solenoid changed as described by member MDS.
I have a "tame" mechanic and more transmission fluid,any ideas?

Thanks so much,
Aitch

[mds]

Remember these boxes are electronically controlled, changes are delayed when the box is cold to aid warm up (normally not noticeable in day to day driving) once the ATF is reaching optimum temperature all should be smooth.

The B4 solenoid will give different symptoms, flaring (revs rise rapidly to 3/4000rpm) between 2-3rd changes. Plus this will happen at all temperatures.

Sadly these boxes seem to have gained a reputation for unreliability (yet they are fitted to the Toyota Camry and Corolla which gained a reputation for being among the worlds most boringly reliable car). What tends to get lost is it is a piece of mechanical equipment and it must be maintained. My own experience having owned and run several cars at a time is even the main dealers seems confused about maintaining them, I have been told they are "Sealed for life" I have been told the "ATF lasts the life of the car" (short and sudden then)
One of our engineers cars started to have issues and after a lot of too'ing and fro'ing and research we carried out our own ATF flush in 2001 on a MY2000 V70 T5 AW55-50 SN we also had to change the B4 as the flaring was there.

Ever since we carried out Oil/Filter changes every 5000 miles and Auto Box flush every 30000 miles (we always get the Dealer to check software and rest the fluid counter after each flush) and touch a tree or two I have not experienced any issues.
For the record the engineer who's car had issues at 40k kept the car when we sold the business he still has it now well over 200k (and he tows a Caravan)
My wife's MY2000 V70T5 is still smooth at 128k and my own V70 T5 Geartronic has no issues, so good maintenance is the Key.

Unfortunately a "Full Dealer History" doesn't necessarily mean the gearbox has been maintained.

War & Peace The End

[easyonthegas]

The gearbox plate states usual AISIN, but the type is TF-80SC with serial number starting 05L. Handbook states it is aw55-50 but stand to be corrected. Definately 6 speed geartronic

On another note a specialist now tells me a need a oil cooler plus oil additive to correct my problem. Very doubtful about this - anyone else have these extra bits fitted to their box??

[prionailurus]

On another note a specialist now tells me a need a oil cooler plus oil additive to correct my problem. Very doubtful about this - anyone else have these extra bits fitted to their box??

Our boxes don't have oil coolers!?... :(
I thought I'd just not seen it yet - that's a must before any remap.

[Jim314]

The gearbox plate states usual AISIN, but the type is TF-80SC with serial number starting 05L. Handbook states it is aw55-50 but stand to be corrected. Definately 6 speed geartronic

On another note a specialist now tells me a need a oil cooler plus oil additive to correct my problem. Very doubtful about this - anyone else have these extra bits fitted to their box??

The oil cooler the mechanic is talking about is an auxiliary cooler placed in front of the a/c condenser (which is in front of the radiator). These auxiliary coolers are generally only needed for towing a caravan. Oftentimes they come OE as part of a towing package.

All automatic tranny vehicles come with a tranny oil cooler in the radiator. The hot ATF is cooled by the engine coolant in the radiator, usually the cooler is a coil of tubing inside the left side end tank. You should see two hoses about a foot apart connected to the left back side of the cooling system radiator.

When an auxiliary cooler is fitted the fluid flows through both coolers in series. There is some debate as to whether it is better for the hot fluid from the tranny to flow first through the radiator cooler and then through the auxiliary cooler or the other way round.

I don't know for sure, but I think the ATF in the 6-spd Aisin is full synthetic, and it may really last over 100 kmi. I think the OE ATF in the 5-spd trannies is not synthetic. It is possible that one could fill the 5-spd trannies with the fluid for the 6-speed and it would last three or four times longer than the non-synthetic.

[prionailurus]

ah, so its the same as the Saab 9000s I had, ok. As I remember, the ATF lasted better with an extra cooler in place, so I might source one, removing the side-cooler before it (possibly) splits inside...I hope the rad is good for more than 170k miles :)
cheers for the info, lets keep these boxes tip-top!

[Chris_Rogers]

The gearbox plate states usual AISIN, but the type is TF-80SC with serial number starting 05L. Handbook states it is aw55-50 but stand to be corrected. Definately 6 speed geartronic

On another note a specialist now tells me a need a oil cooler plus oil additive to correct my problem. Very doubtful about this - anyone else have these extra bits fitted to their box??


Different gearbox to the AW55

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AWTF-80_SC
Note:
It utilises a special AW-1 transmission fluid which is labelled as being maintenance free!

[Jim314]

ah, so its the same as the Saab 9000s I had, ok. As I remember, the ATF lasted better with an extra cooler in place, so I might source one, removing the side-cooler before it (possibly) splits inside...I hope the rad is good for more than 170k miles :)
cheers for the info, lets keep these boxes tip-top!

You cannot remove the OE in-radiator ATF cooler; you would have to replace the entire radiator. Replacement of the entire radiator would give a new transmission oil cooler. I don't think bypassing the in-radiator ATF cooler and using only the auxiliary cooler would be advisable. One does not hear of people doing this.

I think the appropiate safeguard against failure of the in-radiator ATF cooler would be replacement of the engine coolant on a 5-year schedule. The anticorrosives in the Volvo antifreeze have an about 5 to 6 year lifetime. And when the car has many miles and much time on it, do not shy away from replacing the radiator. The average lifetime of a radiator is probably such that one would expect to replace it once in the life of a well maintained V70 which one is keeping for the full life of the vehicle.

If the ATF cooler coil in the radiator would perforate, then this would allow engine coolant to get into the tranny oil. I gather that this is very bad for the tranny.

[Nick44]

This would allow the engine coolant to get into the tranny oil, I gather that this is very bad for the tranny.

Hi Jim,
That has to be the understatement of the decade! :)

[ciecho]

Hi! My S60 is giving me problems when it reaches normal running temperatures. When cold it changes gears super smooth but when hot shift from 3rd to 4th is jerky. The same happens from 5th to 6th but is unnoticable in comparison to 3-4. The problem occurs only on lower revs. The more aggressive driving the smoother changes. I had this problem for quite a while now (about 20000 miles) I had the fluid changed (not flushed). Helped just a little not for long though.
I had the car looked at by Volvo garrage (software upgrade) and 2 independent gearbox specialists with no joy. They charge me money for plugging the computer and reading fault codes that are not there. They usually end up telling me that:
Volvo - swap the gearbox (£3500 + the labour) MRG Volvo Chippenham
Independent - recon box £1600 - £2500

What do you think? I will be really grateful for any response that can bring me closer to solving the problem that bothers me so much. My mechanical skills are next to nothing so please make your responses as plain as you can. Thank you

[Chris_Rogers]

I think your gearbox is a TF-80SC not an AW55, see post 60 for a link to a wiki about it.

Can't be any further help I'm afraid there does not seem to be much 'knowledge' about this box yet.

[Jim314]

Hi! My S60 is giving me problems when it reaches normal running temperatures. . . . I had the fluid changed (not flushed). Helped just a little not for long though.
I had the car looked at by Volvo garrage (software upgrade) and 2 independent gearbox specialists with no joy. They charge me money for plugging the computer and reading fault codes that are not there. They usually end up telling me that:
Volvo - swap the gearbox (£3500 + the labour) MRG Volvo Chippenham
Independent - recon box £1600 - £2500

What do you think? I will be really grateful for any response that can bring me closer to solving the problem that bothers me so much. My mechanical skills are next to nothing so please make your responses as plain as you can. Thank you

Way to early to consider a new transmission.

Where did you get the fluid changed and what replacement ATF was used? I think these Aisin AW transmissions have very strict requirements for ATF. The good indy shop that I take my 2004 V70 to wanted to do an ATF change with some generic ATF which they think is OK, but I decided to take it to the Volvo dealer.

The only non-Volvo ATF I would consider for Aisin AW 5-spd trannies is Mobil ATF 3309 (or the equivalent Toyota one which may be produced by Mobil), or Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF. I suspect that the latter may be what is used in the TF-80SC Aisin AW 6-spd in the newer Volvos under the name AW-1.

If the type of transmission fluid is questionable, I would take it to the dealer for a full fluid replacement with the AW-1.

[Chris_Rogers]

Some info here re AW-1

http://www.saabcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156163

[Jim314]

So BG Universal Synthetic ATF is described as meeting or exceeding the requirements of AW-1. But what is the source of authentic AW-1?

One supposes that each auto manufacturer might have a different source for the factory fill of fluid for the 6-spd Aisin tranny. Aisin might make recommendations or consult, but each manufacturer might have its own cost/benefit analysis and make its own choice. I don't have any idea; just speculating.

Each major auto mfgr might deal with the lubrication suppliers and decide whether the supplier has an existing product which it could use or they might request a special formulation. Once again, I'm just speculating.

Anybody know what the practices actually are?

I wish the auto manufacturers wouldn't keep this so secret, but I guess that is the nature of the business.

[v_matt_v]

I am amazed to see that all over the world through the different volvo forums ive come across this transmission has been the bane of so many! well I have had my love affair with this transmission for quite some time now, in fact it has been an obsession. all I can say is....... there is always a solution. fire away il be glad to help out as best i can and save you a lot of trouble.:lightbulb:

Hello Instrumento,

In my family there is one s60 d5 2004 LHD auto geartronic. Recently when on D mode while standing the engine seems to be more rough. It's noisier and vibrates more. I haven't driven the car but I was told that it feels like the gearbox is trying harder to move the car while the brake pedal is pressed. I'm not sure if you know what I mean. When you change the stick to P everything is back to normal - no noise. Recently the gearbox oil was replaced (about 2 months ago). The problems started about 2-3 weeks ago.

Thanks for advice,
Matt

[hmsggg]

It started as a lazy pull of then suddenly car would burst into life hurtling me down the road then one day went on 120 mile journey and 100 miles into the journey I lost all power to the wheels, it was as if it was in neutral tried all gears including reverse but still no joy I checked the ATF level when the car was cold and not running and there was no oil on the dipstick. Should the car be running to check ATF or not? if it's the case I need to top up the oil what oil can I use to do this I understand that it should be JWS 3309 spec is there any one that can tell me were to buy this oil in the UK obviously avoiding Volvo prices.

[Chris_Rogers]

Use:

Vauxhall / Saab part number for 1ltr correct ATF - V00 93160393

This is JWS 3309 fluid, it does not say so on the bottle but don't worry.

Fluid should be checked with engine running & gear lever in Park.

Preferably after 20mins of driving using the hot mark on the stick.

[Jim314]

It started as a lazy pull of then suddenly car would burst into life hurtling me down the road then one day went on 120 mile journey and 100 miles into the journey I lost all power to the wheels, it was as if it was in neutral tried all gears including reverse but still no joy I checked the ATF level when the car was cold and not running and there was no oil on the dipstick. Should the car be running to check ATF or not? if it's the case I need to top up the oil what oil can I use to do this I understand that it should be JWS 3309 spec is there any one that can tell me were to buy this oil in the UK obviously avoiding Volvo prices.

If you have no ATF showing on the dipstick when the engine is cold and off, then the ATF level is very low. One has to wonder how it got that low. It may have a leak. Maybe the drain plug is loose or missing.

If you don't have the expertise or facilities to do a flush, you should add ATF through the dipstick hole. The level is supposed to be determined with the engine on and the grearshift in Park after shifting through the gears once, but if you had no oil on the dipstick with the engine off and cold, then you might need to add several litres to get it into the safe area to power the tranny.

With the engine off, the fluid level on the tranny dipstick reads higher than it does with the engine on. I would say add two litres and then check the level with the engine off. (Could check is after the first litre, but note that you will have to wait for the ATF on the inside of the dipstick tube to drain down before you can get an accurate reading.)

On my V70 the level with the engine off and cold after sitting for hours, the level is in the middle of the 'hot' range. If I would turn the engine on, cycle through the gears into Park and then read the level with the engine on, I think it would read at the top of the 'cold' range.

[hmsggg]

Hi my ATF on my Volvo S60 D5 2003 Geartronic had recently lost all drive I checked oil level and was not registering on dipstick so I looked under car to see if there was any leaks on the floor but couldn't see anything. I must point out that car had been stood for about 5 months then put back on road thats when I got failure. I have since put 1ltr of oil in but still doesn't register on dipstick and yes car was running when I checked level but luckily I got drive back to some degree but seems like I have a bad slipping clutch I will be putting more oil in shortly Carlube ATF U as it's apparently compatable with aisin warner box and meets JWS 3309 Spec cheers Gary

[linesi]

I currently have 87,000 miles on the clock and most of my driving has been long distance. For the last 3,000 miles the 55-50 gearbox has been gradually getting worse. It occasionally slips 2nd to 3rd, changes from 3rd to 4th very quickly and double thumps into D and R sometimes. There seems to be no pattern to it. 3k miles ago I dumped the transmission sump and replaced approx 4 litres, 1k miles ago did a full flush (with proper fluid - which I had found reference to on this forum). Both times it seemed better for a few days and then reverted. I've checked the B4 cover - it's ok. I've had the transmission ECU reloaded by Volvo. The only difference that made is that it hangs on to 2nd gear way toooo long now when it's cold.
Being slightly incensed that my £26k car has only lasted 87k miles I wrote to Volvo UK. Their rep said " I do not believe that the gearbox has failed prematurely." - argh... I wish they had told me that when I bought an auto - I would have gone for the manual. Then the dealer said he only expected 100k miles out of an auto.
I've just written to Volvo Global - we'll see.
How do they cope in the USA where nearly every car is an auto?
Are there auto transmission repair shops on every street corner?
I'm just really b......... annoyed - sorry rant over.

I'm in Milton Keynes does anyone know a trustworthy repairer who could give me a good diagnosis?
thanks.

[nickbw898]

B4 overhaul. It is easy; go to www.volvoxc.com (Canadian site) where a search will bring up very clear instructions with pics.

[Bernard333]

How do they cope in the USA where nearly every car is an auto?
Are there auto transmission repair shops on every street corner?
I'm just really b......... annoyed - sorry rant over.

I'm in Milton Keynes does anyone know a trustworthy repairer who could give me a good diagnosis?
thanks.

I think they have the same issues in the USA and Canada only the market is 10 times the size of the UK so there are a lot more specialists than we have they seem to talk to each other and even have seminars on this gearbox . The US market size has allowed many specialist companies to develop their own spare parts for these boxes , its a pity most of them are not interested in exporting .

Best specialist I have come accross so far is Transmission Technology Solihull , they know the AW55-50 well and can rebuild it if needed .

[Foreigner500]

linesi,

Are the any fault codes available ? Presumably the dealer will have told you what they are ?

The dealers ALWAYS adhere to the following process;

Change the fluid
Update the software
recommend the gearbox is changed as nothing else will work


They are seemingly of no value whatsoever if you'd like something repaired rather than replaced.

It seems to me that whilst the mechanics of this box can fail, far more frequent is the failure of the various sensors and the like. If this were not the case then the gearbox would be as problematic in the other manufacturers vehicles it is fitted to - and it is not.

Whilst volvo don't even like maintaining the thing at any mileage, you'd be unlucky if that was your problem at 80,000miles ish. Volvo have no interest in investigating this, so it'll be down to you. As far as Volvo are concerned the box is dead and that's that.

A major challenge is that whilst the cause might not be serious, finding it and curing it can be labour intensive and by no means certain.

If it'll help, I drive through Milton Keynes on my way home most days, I do have a code reader in the car if you have unknown codes.

[linesi]

Thanks Foreigner500 - it may be good to see if there are any codes to read.
When Volvo did the software reload about 6 weeks ago i had explained the problem and they didn't mention any fault codes.
I guess I naively accepted that it would be okay !

Your offer to help read the codes will be a good step. What time do you pass by? I live in Crownhill on the West side.

cheers,

mark.

[Foreigner500]

When they upgraded the software on mine they actually didn't bother to read the codes. The job said "load software" so they loaded software. The job didn't say "have a look at the codes and try to work out what's wrong with it" - so they didn't.

I don't know MK at all. I typically pass through en route from Bedford to Buckingham around 5ish - pretty much straight through the middle. Or around 8ish in the morning going the other way.

foreigner500@live.co.uk

[MrP]

not sure if i need help here, but my auto box has started doing something thats worrying me slightly.

its a 2002 V70 bi-fuel auto (140bhp, not geartronic) with 115,000 on the clock

changing up between 2nd and 3rd (or possibly 3rd and 4th) its started to take its time over the change, which mean the rev's rise for a second or so before the next gear engages.

it tends to be on lighter throttle loads, and dosent do it all the time, it tends tobe ok with larger throttle openings though.

the box has had a recent oil change, but its worrying me that its going to die leaving me with a large bill.

anyone got any ideas what it might be, or what would fix it??

cheeers

[Chris_Rogers]

Sounds like it needs a B4 servo cover, cheap and possibly a DIY job.

[silverback02]

Chris,
How easy is it to do the B4 selenoid ? or poss Selenoid A stuck on ??
cheers,
joe.

[Chris_Rogers]

Have a look thrugh this thread & links:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=105436&highlight=Servo

[hmsggg]

If you have no ATF showing on the dipstick when the engine is cold and off, then the ATF level is very low. One has to wonder how it got that low. It may have a leak. Maybe the drain plug is loose or missing.

If you don't have the expertise or facilities to do a flush, you should add ATF through the dipstick hole. The level is supposed to be determined with the engine on and the grearshift in Park after shifting through the gears once, but if you had no oil on the dipstick with the engine off and cold, then you might need to add several litres to get it into the safe area to power the tranny.

With the engine off, the fluid level on the tranny dipstick reads higher than it does with the engine on. I would say add two litres and then check the level with the engine off. (Could check is after the first litre, but note that you will have to wait for the ATF on the inside of the dipstick tube to drain down before you can get an accurate reading.)

On my V70 the level with the engine off and cold after sitting for hours, the level is in the middle of the 'hot' range. If I would turn the engine on, cycle through the gears into Park and then read the level with the engine on, I think it would read at the top of the 'cold' range.
thanks for that Jim you was spot on with that. I can know confirm my baby is now running better than ever. it turned out I had a leak from the pipe coming from the bottom of box, to the bottom off the cooler. easy fix cost £63 from Volvo topped up the oil, got light reset job done. the reason the pipe failed was due to the splash guard wearing against it, you could see a flat side were it had been rubbing.

[silverfoxcc]

V70 D5 02 Model From a standstill the pick up is very sluggish. It takes 2/3 seconds from floring the pedal to the car getting speed up. rather problematicalat entering roundabouts when i get 'caught' by traffic entering behind me.
Once ,moving the pick up is ok and kickdown works ok
The 0-60 time is in the region of 13/14 secs which is waay too slow
Any ideas where to look?
Thanks

[Jim314]

. . . turned out I had a leak from the pipe coming from the bottom of box, to the bottom off the cooler. easy fix cost £63 from Volvo topped up the oil, got light reset job done. the reason the pipe failed was due to the splash guard wearing against it, you could see a flat side were it had been rubbing.

By 'splash guard' do you mean the large plastic pan under the engine compartment?

My 2004 US base model V70 did not come equipped with a plastic pan under the engine compartment and I can see that one of the ATF hoses going to or from the ATF cooler hangs down below the plane of the bottom of the car. I have always thought it could get snagged, and thought about getting a pan, but never did. I can see now that this pan could cause more harm than benefit.

See http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=761576.

[Jim314]

By 'splash guard' do you mean the large plastic pan under the engine compartment?

My 2004 US base model V70 did not come equipped with a plastic pan under the engine compartment and I can see that one of the ATF hoses going to or from the ATF cooler hangs down below the plane of the bottom of the car. I have always thought it could get snagged, and thought about getting a pan, but never did. I can see now that this pan could cause more harm than benefit.

See http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?p=761576.

I must retract the story of tranny cooler hoses hanging down below the level of the bottom of my V70. I remembered this wrong. I should have looked before posting.

The lower tranny cooler hose does cross laterally under the radiator fan shroud and rests on the heavy metal frame member, but it is armored with a ~12" long piece of heavy rubber tubing where the tranny hose rests on the frame. I suppose over time this could wear through the armoring and then through the ATF hose. I'll take a look at the underside sometime and see if there is any wear.

[blueskies1974]

I am amazed to see that all over the world through the different volvo forums ive come across this transmission has been the bane of so many! well I have had my love affair with this transmission for quite some time now, in fact it has been an obsession. all I can say is....... there is always a solution. fire away il be glad to help out as best i can and save you a lot of trouble.:lightbulb:

Hi there

I had a 51 plate S80 2.4 SE and got rid of it in 2008 when the gearbox gave problems at 71,000 miles. It jerked between 2nd and 3rd almost as if slipping out of gear and immediately back in again and a Volvo main dealer suggested replacing the transmission at a cost of thousands at the time.

A second opinion from an I dependant auto box specialist confirmed problems and quoted me £2,000 to recondition it. I sold the car and got a Mercedes c class that just wasnt the same. Even though I felt stung I longed for a Volvo again and missed the lovely seats and feeling of a large car.

I decided to try again and took delivery of a stunning 05 plate 2.4 SE auto with 34,000 miles two months ago. Exactly the same car an hopefully I will not have the same problems again. I will appreciate advice on how to look after it and prevent what ever happened to my 51 plate to happen to this one too.

The box seems fine and the only concern I have is that every now and then when I take my foot off the accelerator and back on again quickly, like going into a roundabout and accelerating again it gives a slight jerk almost as if it would be when you let the clutch out too quickly on a manual.

This really doesn't happen often and only if I accelerate again very quickly after taking my foot off.

What can this be and what other problems should I look out for? The car has a full service record and the last service was carried out just before I got it, but bizarrely enough it is a mercedes service history!

Any advice please? Thanks for a great post.

Peet

[Chris_Rogers]

I'd suggest you take it to a dealer and ask for the latest software update for the gearbox ECU, I had a similar experience with my '05 model and the software update cured it.

Other than that make sure the fluid is clean and at the correct level.

I'd advise a fluid change using JWS 3309 spec fluid as soon as the fluid starts to change colour from cherry red. This will probably happen between 40 & 50k miles depending on driving style.

There is plenty of info here regarding the method of changing the fluid and obtaining the correct fluid without paying Volvo prices, Vauxhall fluid is as good as any.

[Jim314]

I'd suggest you take it to a dealer and ask for the latest software update for the gearbox ECU, I had a similar experience with my '05 model and the software update cured it.

Other than that make sure the fluid is clean and at the correct level.

I'd advise a fluid change using JWS 3309 spec fluid as soon as the fluid starts to change colour from cherry red. This will probably happen between 40 & 50k miles depending on driving style.

There is plenty of info here regarding the method of changing the fluid and obtaining the correct fluid without paying Volvo prices, Vauxhall fluid is as good as any.

Would an '05 plate 2.4 SE auto' be in the range where the operation of the B4 servo cover should be investigated?

[Chris_Rogers]

No, the cars affected where around 2002 year.

[blueskies1974]

That is great advice, thanks.

I would have thought that a mercedes service history just won't do the trick!

Will get this sorted, thank you


I'd suggest you take it to a dealer and ask for the latest software update for the gearbox ECU, I had a similar experience with my '05 model and the software update cured it.
That
Other than that make sure the fluid is clean and at the correct level.

I'd advise a fluid change using JWS 3309 spec fluid as soon as the fluid starts to change colour from cherry red. This will probably happen between 40 & 50k miles depending on driving style.

There is plenty of info here regarding the method of changing the fluid and obtaining the correct fluid without paying Volvo prices, Vauxhall fluid is as good as any.

[S60-D]

Jerky gearbox, not sure which gearbox I have, its S60 D5 SE from 2002, been to Volvo dealer and all they can say that the ATF is dirty and overfilled.

Would a flush resolve the issue? Is it a DIY job? Or only main stealer can do it and to reset the adaptation?

[sted1]

Hi Guy's
I've inherited a early 2000 v70, when I got the car it was overfilled with ATF so a local garage drained it and put the propper volvo spec ATF back in, when I drove the car from the garage it was perfect but as soon as the car gets warm thats when the fun starts. It slips through every gear,judders at about 40mph and would'nt pull a greasy man out of bed.
anyone got any ideas???
and does anyone know what type of box it is???

[Chris_Rogers]

To the last two posters your gearbox will be a AW55-50SN

[S60-D]

Cheers Chris,

Is that what I should select when Im in VADIS? and where to read/find out about the gearbox type/sn?

[Chris_Rogers]

You could, but if you enter your vin you should get the correct info for your car.

[luvroad]

Can anyone help please?
Have been looking down through various threads & forums but to no avail. My mechanic recently had to replace a crankshaft oil seal on my 2002 XC70 5 speed geartronic which has covered 170,000 miles. He also replaced the cam belt, water pump & tensioners, as well as all fluids & filters. On completion he test drove the car & found everything ok. He phoned me later to say all work had been completed but the car would not drive, ie on engaging any gear, D or R. He is now trying to find a solution & thinks it may be the torque converter or an electronic component.
Before the work was undertaken, I had no problems with the gearbox, with either selection or kickdown, ie it drove perfectly.
Any ideas anyone? Much appreciated..
Thanks in advance.

[hmsggg]

Hi has he plugged it into his computer to see what faults come up? if he hasn't got this equipment then don't pay him any more money, try and get it fixed by him for free. If not goto your local main dealer to find the fault. hopefully somebody on here may be able to help you further. Good luck.

[Chris_Rogers]

I'd suggest the first actions would be to check the fluid level and type.

[ginger123]

I am amazed to see that all over the world through the different volvo forums ive come across this transmission has been the bane of so many! well I have had my love affair with this transmission for quite some time now, in fact it has been an obsession. all I can say is....... there is always a solution. fire away il be glad to help out as best i can and save you a lot of trouble.:lightbulb:

i was wondering if you could help me my gearbox jumps between 4th and 5th between 30 and 40 mph any ideas i have changed oil and had software update no fault codes found please help

[luvroad]

Thanks all for your advice. Have since been in contact with a main dealer and was able to speak to a mechanic. Firstly he said to re check gearbox oil level, and to make sure my mechanic hadn't mixed up electronic cables from the box itself. This info I passed on but everything seems to be in order. Luckily my mechanic is a friend of mine and has a good record with fault finding. Will keep you posted, maybe my result will help someone else here. Thanks again to you all.

[luvroad]

Have since found out why the car will not drive. My mechanic test drove the car on completion of the work after which a piece of the oil pump shattered. Was in contact with a gearbox specialist to discover it could have happened myself after getting the car back. His initial concern was that my mechanic had done damage, though I found this was not the case after speaking with both. I am currently waiting to have an oil pump fitted to the gearbox by the gearbox firm and am confident that this will end my troubles. Will post again when the car is up and running.

[petr]

I have S80 AW 55-50sn and when the transmision is in normal temperature than the shifting from 3-4 or 4-3 is bad. Started sometimes but now it is realy often. Also I have Neutral to Drive delay, often with a bang engagement. Reverse engagement is OK.
I know the 3-4 is comanded by S3 solenoid. But I dont know what could be wrong.

I'm sorry about my english.

DTC: P0785 $1F Shift Timing

P0700

Petr.

[v_matt_v]

I'm looking to buy another volvo and I'm considering the automatic gearbox versions with geartronic as well. Is there any way to test the gearbox when I check the car?

Apart from checking the oil level and the colour is there anything else I could check?

Cheers,
Matt

[andy_d]

I'm looking to buy another volvo and I'm considering the automatic gearbox versions with geartronic as well. Is there any way to test the gearbox when I check the car?

Apart from checking the oil level and the colour is there anything else I could check?

Cheers,
Matt

that it drives in all gears, the auto change is smooth without "bangs" or "clunks", that the kickdown works , and that you can manually select all gears without it clunking/other
If there is a "S" "E" "W" buttons, check they work and that the light (if any) on the dash lights up

[AUS T5]

As Andy has said but you need to be able to test drive it for at least an hour or you will miss any problems with the box, when they are cold they generally work like a dream but once they are hot thats when you get the flaring and bumping (if they are faulty).

[MarksV70]

Heres a Question.
My 2001 V70, Drives fine through all the gears, up and down, Kickdown is fine too. The problem i have is when i stop in traffic, take my foot off the brake to pull away and instead of the car Gently pulling away, it will hesitate until the throttle is applied and then "lurches" forward. It happens 8 out of 10 times no matter how gentle i am with the throttle..... Hard to explain accurately but its almost like its forgetting it should be in drive and quickly chucks it into gear creating a Cluncky lurch forward when throttle is applied.
No aparent noise when this happens though.

Oh my Servo has a bit of a "hissing" leak will this be the cause ???


Any ideas ????

[kdst5]

Do a search on this forum for "stop netural", it needs a dealer only software update to remove this feature.

Replacing the servo on right hand drive cars is expensive as the engine has to be dropped down a few inches.

[MarksV70]

Cheers mate. Have had a couple of suggestions on how to avoid the issue until i get the software upgrade done.

Regards to the Servo, Theres a good Volvo Breakers in Preston who did my Engine change, So il task them with the servo job.

Thanks again

[luvroad]

Was told by gearbox specialist that the AISN geartronic unit fitted to my 2002 XC70 was not at all reliable & the oil pump (I don't know about the gearbox) is actually shared with the GM Opel/Vauxhall Vectra 2003/4 model. Have got my car back with 2nd hand oil pump working fine.He says oil pump for 5 speed geartronic not available new. He charged stg£400 to fit 2nd hand pump. Hope this is of some information.

[pfortescue]

Hello folks. Be kind to a noob please.

Am taking delivery on thursday of v70 d5 - and the VIN decipher tells me i have one of these ...... AW55-50SN

53 plate - model year 04 apparently though - should I be concerned, or despite all these posts, are the faults really few and far between.

25 minute test drive - wishing it was more now.

Paul

[iainp]

Hi have had this now 6 months put into Volvo independent for a flush and seem to still clunk down into first gear when hot

Gear box is great when cold lovely and smooth

Occasional holds gear when stuck in traffic

Any ideas would be great

Maybe reset the gearbox software if so any ideas how to do this

Cheers

[Nick44]

You probably need a software update for the TCM (transmission Control Module) and the neutral/stop patch loading. Main dealer only, but not too expensive.
Buzz back if you need help with the part number for the neutral patch.

[georgehifi]

Hope one of the gurus here has an answer for this.
OK here goes, AW55-50sn 100,000km, new oil AT3009 (Toyota T4) changed as per Vadis (two X 2 litre flushes then top up) I have not reset the TCM oil counter as the shifts are fine and smooth
But!!!! When cold first start in neutral or park engine feels a little rough between 1 and 2 thousand revs, no noises just cold motor vibrations I think.
For the first 10 to 15mins of driving with perfect shift pattern while transmission is still cold, a rotational rumbling (medium level), slight grinding (low level) sound from the left foot well with the accelerator just pressed a little or alot. With no acceleration (coasting) no rumbling or grinding.
Does not change with weaving or full lock either direction. After 15mins of driving all is perfectly quiet. This does not change even if I let the motor completly warm up before driving, noise is still there for 15mins of driving (till I think the atf warms up) Tranny shifts perfectly at all times.
Checked wheel bearings, CV joints and Tripod bearing all fine.

Hope you can shed some light on this, it's driving me nuts, a tranny specialist sugested I disconnect the TPS when cold, as he says it can build up the pressures too much in the tranny via the ECU and TCM and see if that shuts the rumling/grinding noises up??
Cheers George

[georgehifi]

a tranny specialist sugested I disconnect the TPS when cold, as he says it can build up the pressures too much in the tranny via the ECU and TCM and see if that shuts the rumling/grinding noises up??
Cheers George

Tried that today, no joy still the same.

Any help would be great.

Cheers George

[daveb948576]

hi, im wondering if you can help, i have bought a broken vectra c auto with the af23 gearbox (aw55-50sn), the garage removed it that i bought it from so i then refitted the gearbox myself to see what the problem is, the car revs up in every gear and will not drive at all, not even any drop in revs when selecting 'D' i took the gearbox back out to the car and had a look inside at the gears and all seemed ok apart from i couldn't get the large nut undone thats inside the gearbox, i think its on the back of the pump, i was unable to remove the pump, i put the gearbox back in but it still does the same, it just revs up and will not drive anywhere. what would be the problem? will a broken tourqe convertor stop it from driving? the teeth inside seemed ok with some movement, the first set of teeth i was able to turn in both directions but the second set of teeth fell like they are fixed/secure, is this normal? is there a one way clutch inside the torque convertor?


whilst the casing was off the gearbox i was able to turn the large shaft that runs direct through the inside of the gearbox and the other section of the gearbox would turn but independantly, should they tun together with cogs engaged or do they rely on fluid pressure? do i have some cogs/teeth/clutch wrongly fitted? is there an assembly manual anywhere?

how can i remove the pump to see whats gone wrong?

is it the pump thats broken?
is it the torque convertor thats broken?
are the gears incorrectly fitted?

any help would be great,thanks.

dave.

[mrc1501]

Can anyone elaborate on 'resetting the fluid counter' that I have read a couple of times in this thread. What does it actually mean, and how is it done.

Just flushed my gearbox with Volvo ATF and quite intersted on what the above term means

[Nick44]

Hi,
This is a software item in the TCM.
It counts (I believe) the number of times the fluid exceeded certain parameters.
Has to be done by a Volvo main dealer.

[Fernando]

Hello

I have a V70 2002 with AW55-50SN with the neutral problem at idle, I went to the Volvo dealer in Chile(there is only one) and they say me that it is not possible to load the software 30646691 Neutral Control Remove.
If I bought the Vida DICE software , does it is included this patch or is it possible to get this software patch in some place
My second question if this neutral clutch operation is only in model 2001 and 2002, Is it possible to buy a 2003 or 2004 TCM and install it in my car, Is it possible to do that or it is necesary to set something

I would appreciate your help

[machavelu]

Hi, my lovely S60 2.0T manual transmission early 2004 model is gradually making me regret becoming a true volvo lover. It hangs occassionally between 2-3 gear shift. I took it to an inde volvo garage who test drove it and came to the conclusion the trans is dead. But, I'm not totally convinced since other gear shift works just fine. Besides, I was not given other options to the flare solutions other than being charged £800.00 to fix a new tran.

I have read in this lovely forum that an oil drain and fill plus a trans software update could solve the problem. Should I try these methods first? Does manual trans require draining? I be over the moon to get my joy back driving my volvo.

[Nick44]

Hi machavelu.
You have me confused, you said it is a manual car?
Manual cars don't flare.
Do you mean it's automatic, but you drive it in manual mode? (Geartronic)

[machavelu]

Hi machavelu.
You have me confused, you said it is a manual car?
Manual cars don't flare.
Do you mean it's automatic, but you drive it in manual mode? (Geartronic)


Nick44,

Yes! it's actually a manual gearbox. I mean to say it crunches when going from 2-3gear. It hangs like it's in neutral. Other gears are fine. What do you think could be the problem? Does it need drain and flush or software update? Heard there is no software update for a manual transmission.

[Jim314]

Could this be a bad synchronizer. You might try 'double clutching' on the shift from 2nd to 3rd, i.e., push in clutch, shift out of 2nd into neutral, let clutch out, push in clutch, shift into 3rd, let clutch out.

I wonder if you can shift from 2nd to 4th using ordinary clutching? Skipping 3rd would be inconvenient, but if the alternative is a repair that you can't afford right now, then you might be willing to do it for a while.

Can you shift from 1st to 3rd using ordinary clutching?

[machavelu]

Could this be a bad synchronizer. You might try 'double clutching' on the shift from 2nd to 3rd, i.e., push in clutch, shift out of 2nd into neutral, let clutch out, push in clutch, shift into 3rd, let clutch out.

I wonder if you can shift from 2nd to 4th using ordinary clutching? Skipping 3rd would be inconvenient, but if the alternative is a repair that you can't afford right now, then you might be willing to do it for a while.

Can you shift from 1st to 3rd using ordinary clutching?

Yea! At the moment, I'm shifting from 2-4 but it can be very frustrating cause I need to rev up a bit more before coming down to 4. You might be right that it's the synchronizer whatever that means. I called an independent volvo garage Pye& sons they told me it could be the (soloniod) sorry if i get the spelling right. However, they referred me to a gearbox specialist in Mosley. I'm just afraid it could cost me loads. Haven't got the cash. Do you have an idea what I should do to remedy this annoying problems?

[RM955I]

A very basic question here.....what is the correct way to measure the ATF level with the dipstick.

I have been told that hot is better than cold; also I have read that when hot, you should go through all positions for the gears for a couple of seconds each, turn the engine off and then let the car stand for 2 minutes. Others say measure it with the engine running????

It's a basic but important question :-)

[dave_s13]

52 plate v70 d5 auto. 130k miles.

Fine when cold but when up to temp it will give a jolt when slowing for a junction/roundabout. Seems to be the change from 2 to 1.

Fluid was flushed a couple of thousand miles ago with no improve

Any ideas on what it could be most welcome.

[dave_s13]

A very basic question here.....what is the correct way to measure the ATF level with the dipstick.

I have been told that hot is better than cold; also I have read that when hot, you should go through all positions for the gears for a couple of seconds each, turn the engine off and then let the car stand for 2 minutes. Others say measure it with the engine running????

It's a basic but important question :-)

Definately check with engine running - I can't remember which way it goes but if you check it with the engine off it will either under-read or over-read by a massive amount.

This is what I did when I flushed mine. Let it settle for 10 mins or so, engine on, check cold level. If looks ok take it for a drive until the engine temp needle reads half way, check level again. Fill/drain as you think.

If you do a measured drain/flush/fill you end up with pretty much the same volume of fluid in there.

[Bernard333]

Yea! At the moment, I'm shifting from 2-4 but it can be very frustrating cause I need to rev up a bit more before coming down to 4. You might be right that it's the synchronizer whatever that means. I called an independent volvo garage Pye& sons they told me it could be the (soloniod) sorry if i get the spelling right. However, they referred me to a gearbox specialist in Mosley. I'm just afraid it could cost me loads. Haven't got the cash. Do you have an idea what I should do to remedy this annoying problems?


If you have a problem with a manual Volvo gearbox there is no point getting it repaired because they cost so little for a good used one . An M56 gearbox for S60/V70 etc can be had for £50 . The manuals do not normally give trouble so used gearboxes pile up in breakers yards as there is very little demand .

[machavelu]

If you have a problem with a manual Volvo gearbox there is no point getting it repaired because they cost so little for a good used one . An M56 gearbox for S60/V70 etc can be had for £50 . The manuals do not normally give trouble so used gearboxes pile up in breakers yards as there is very little demand .

Thanks Benard333. Do you have an idea where i can source one? I live in Birmingham west midlands and have not heard of any scrap yard i could get one.

[Nick44]

Totally agree with Bernard.
Try Salvo Group (just google them)
They supply guarenteed units by mail order

[timh30]

52 plate v70 d5 auto. 130k miles.

Fine when cold but when up to temp it will give a jolt when slowing for a junction/roundabout. Seems to be the change from 2 to 1.

Fluid was flushed a couple of thousand miles ago with no improve

Any ideas on what it could be most welcome.


Same symptoms as me (on XC90). Cured with new/repaired linear solenoids in the gearbox.

I did the repair last weekend - see this post for details:
http://volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=156948

[dave_s13]

Same symptoms as me (on XC90). Cured with new/repaired linear solenoids in the gearbox.

I did the repair last weekend - see this post for details:
http://volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=156948

Excellent work, thanks for that.

It seems straightforward enough(ish). I'd be interested to know how much replacement solenoids cost though as it seems easier to just replace. I can't check Ebay at work - do you know off the top of your head?

Also if I went to an auto gearbox specialist with these solenoids in hand and said "change these please" would they know where to start?

And another.... did you carry out the adpation procedure mentioned in the PDF article?

[timh30]

The Rostra replacement solenoids are about £180 + import duty etc.

I don't see why a competent garage wouldn't be able to replace them for you.

No - I don't have Vida to do a full adaption, but there are some instructions on the web for a 'soft' adaption.

[dave_s13]

FIXED IT


Dead simple really. Traded it in for a 2008 BMW 525d msport Touring with a manual gearbox.

:-)

Grateful to all on this forum, been very useful indeed.

[silverback02]

FIXED IT


Dead simple really. Traded it in for a 2008 BMW 525d msport Touring with a manual gearbox.

:-)

Grateful to all on this forum, been very useful indeed.

Well Done ,
So how about giving us a quick run down on what you did in the end, so we can all give it a go.
joe.

[Jim314]

A very basic question here.....what is the correct way to measure the ATF level with the dipstick.

I have been told that hot is better than cold; also I have read that when hot, you should go through all positions for the gears for a couple of seconds each, turn the engine off and then let the car stand for 2 minutes. Others say measure it with the engine running????

It's a basic but important question :-)

Automatic transmission fluid levels are always read with the engine running.

[dave_s13]

Well Done ,
So how about giving us a quick run down on what you did in the end, so we can all give it a go.
joe.

I was being a little obtuse there I suppose.

The car still has gearbox issues. They are no longer my problem however.

[silverback02]

I was being a little obtuse there I suppose.

The car still has gearbox issues. They are no longer my problem however.

LOL,
I re-alised that as soon as I posted (Doh),
But I was hoping I'd got it wrong and you had sorted it without doing it the easy way, lol.
cheers,
Joe.

[ithought]

I have an error message stating 'Transmission service required' with an accompanying orange engine service light.
The transmission is fine for about 10 or 15 miles then usually reverts to a 'dash' instead of reading 'D'rive, 'N'eutral etc. and then goes into limp mode.If I turn off for a few minutes the transmission will work correctly for another few minutes. A longer stop extends the transmission's correct function. If the software is giving a correct display 'D'rive etc. the trannie is working well, quiet, shifting effortlessly, good kick-down etc.
I took it to a local auto trannie expert who checked the fault codes and said that it is an internal error. (lock-up and service clutch low pressure). It's an 'Aisin Warner model 55-50-SN' converter

However I like this Volvo S60 and will give it another chance, I'm obstinate like that. Having looked through most forums , looked at the likes of 'Howard's Volvo maintenance' and even tried 'Justanswer' (rip off), and talked to the transmission repair guy.

What I don't understand is how the box works perfectly some of the time, today for instance I drove 30 or 40 gentle miles with no problems whatsoever.

I wonder would an ATF change (with recommended fluid) get my pressure back up and I thought I would also fit a new 'B4 servo cover' as a matter of course. Maybe I should fit a recon Torgue converter ?

Gerry
Wexford

[itguy]

First things first, have you checked the oil level? If its very low you could have pressure problems

How long have you had the car? Has it done this all the time you've had it or only started recently? If its new to you someone before you might have done an oil change with the wrong oil type, resulting in oil that's too thin when warm resulting in low pressure.

Do you tow anything with the car? Sometimes the transmission service message appears when the gearbox oil temp has been over heated a number of times. Towing heavy things a lot might cause this, and new oil would help.

Have you ever topped up or done anything with the gearbox oil before? What colour is it and does it smell burnt? How many miles has the car done?

[ithought]

First things first, have you checked the oil level? If its very low you could have pressure problems

How long have you had the car? Has it done this all the time you've had it or only started recently? If its new to you someone before you might have done an oil change with the wrong oil type, resulting in oil that's too thin when warm resulting in low pressure.

Do you tow anything with the car? Sometimes the transmission service message appears when the gearbox oil temp has been over heated a number of times. Towing heavy things a lot might cause this, and new oil would help.

Have you ever topped up or done anything with the gearbox oil before? What colour is it and does it smell burnt? How many miles has the car done?

Had it a few weeks, problem was always there though the Latvian guy (crook) I bought it off broke a dip beam light fitting. This error message generated therefore superseded the 'Transmission needs service' message. My first Volvo so I didn't know what to look for at the time.
S60 T20, 115000 miles, no service history. No tow-bar.
The oil seems the right colour and smell, perhaps slightly overfull. I guess I'll change with the correct grade and see what happens. How do you re-set the ATF change indicator?
Thanks
Gerry

[timh30]

What I don't understand is how the box works perfectly some of the time, today for instance I drove 30 or 40 gentle miles with no problems whatsoever.


Do you find it worse in town/slow moving traffic? If during your 30-40 mile drive you kept a reasonable speed going, then the gearbox/oil temps would have stayed lower, that may explain why you didn't experience the issues.

A lot of symptoms relate to higher temps in the gearbox, causing solenoids to start sticking etc (due to the build up of crud in them). I'd first try replacing the gearbox oil to see if that helps and go from there - then possibly try the solenoid repairs I created a thread for. http://volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=156948

[itguy]

Yep, my thoughts exactly ref the oil temp. Do a full oil change (I'd suggest the gibbons method) using the 3309 spec oil and see how that then performs.

the gearbox ATF change counter is a dealer reset item or by using the vida/dice combo (take a look at eBay).

[ithought]

Hi Guys

Well after exhaustive research in the forums, Sonnax.com (USA) etc. I have decided to proceed in this order with my dodgy transmission. Any comments, tips, personal experiences etc. are most welcome.
In view of the fact that my trannie works well (once warm), but starts to play-up when hot or if I give it the wellie (3000 rpm and above), and the fault codes indicate low pressure in the lock-up and service clutches, this seems to be a sensible route to follow.
Firstly I'll take it to my local garage (a small quality outfit who do service and repairs) and get them to replace the ATF with a recommended synthetic (maybe Mobil, Toyota or even Volvo, depends on price).
At the same time I'd like them to replace the B4 servo cover as this appears to be a faulty part, given the model and age 2002 of this car. Does anyone know where is the best place to get a B4 servo cover in Ireland or the UK, and possibly the transmission solenoids (Sonnax) but more of that later ? This I suppose will cost me in the region of € 200 → € 300 but if it gets me out of the mire it's money well spent.
Then with a bit of luck I'll be sucking diesel, well hope not in that it's a petrol but you know what I mean.
If this doesn't sort me out I'll be getting despondent and a little angry so the next step would be the transmission solenoids and since the sub-frame etc. has to come off possibly a re-con torque converter as well. Sigh, another € 800 down the tube. Also various rubber suspension mounts need replacement. Starting to look a bit uneconomical at this juncture. Maybe I'll just go back to my erstwhile beloved Mercs, but I do like the the S60 T20 and if I spend this cash will it remain a garage Queen with umpteen other expensive faults and failures.

Gerry
Wexford

[byggmester bently]

Lately my 01 V70 XC 2,5t torque converter lockup function**seems as if its repeatedly unlocking and locking, in increments of less than a second. This happens at speeds around 60KMH, most often between 50 and 70.** It occurs on low inclines, flats,**however doesn't seems to happen while descending.***

There are no errorcodes, car runs great otherwise. I recently changed gear oil .... but the problem existed before then, but is worse after new oil.****The transmission fluid appears to be at the correct level, however its still black.**

ATTENCION :
In cruise control mode everiything is fine.
In Tiptronic mode ( manual) its NOT repeatedly unlocking and locking, but it seems like it s having some problem deside when to be locked or unlocked.
**
Besides the possibility that it is just dirty fluid.... any ideas?**
Any way to disable the lockup solenoid
I believe the lock up have 3 stages : Locked , Open or controlled

TIPS: Next step for me ??

The local Volvo workshop have no idea.

[Auldgit]

Hi Guys

Well after exhaustive research in the forums, Sonnax.com (USA) etc. I have decided to proceed in this order with my dodgy transmission. Any comments, tips, personal experiences etc. are most welcome.
In view of the fact that my trannie works well (once warm), but starts to play-up when hot or if I give it the wellie (3000 rpm and above), and the fault codes indicate low pressure in the lock-up and service clutches, this seems to be a sensible route to follow.
Firstly I'll take it to my local garage (a small quality outfit who do service and repairs) and get them to replace the ATF with a recommended synthetic (maybe Mobil, Toyota or even Volvo, depends on price).
At the same time I'd like them to replace the B4 servo cover as this appears to be a faulty part, given the model and age 2002 of this car. Does anyone know where is the best place to get a B4 servo cover in Ireland or the UK, and possibly the transmission solenoids (Sonnax) but more of that later ? This I suppose will cost me in the region of € 200 → € 300 but if it gets me out of the mire it's money well spent.
Then with a bit of luck I'll be sucking diesel, well hope not in that it's a petrol but you know what I mean.
If this doesn't sort me out I'll be getting despondent and a little angry so the next step would be the transmission solenoids and since the sub-frame etc. has to come off possibly a re-con torque converter as well. Sigh, another € 800 down the tube. Also various rubber suspension mounts need replacement. Starting to look a bit uneconomical at this juncture. Maybe I'll just go back to my erstwhile beloved Mercs, but I do like the the S60 T20 and if I spend this cash will it remain a garage Queen with umpteen other expensive faults and failures.

Gerry
Wexford

How much would a re-con (and warranted) box cost??

[S60 PNV]

A couple of questions if I may:

I have a Volvo S60, late 2005 (MY06) Euro 3 163, Geartronic (5 speed)

1. Is there a Volvo designated interval for replacement of the ATF or is it "Never" or "as and when it looks like it's needed"

2. Will the MY06 car likely be needing the software update?



I don't have any general problems with the transmission but I did a 3 hour drive last weekend and around 2 hours in did some town driving and the transmission felt very odd, high revs at low speed driving around in 30mph zones (I left it in 'D' the whole time, didn't really think to check what gear it was actually in)

I also had issues pulling away from stationary with response being sluggish but have adjusted fairly well to that now, and no longer consider it a problem.

[itguy]

I don't know about the software updates for an 06 car, but Volvo do not specify ANY changes of the oil in the box.

Saab/Lexus/GM etc all DO.

Saab is 60k miles I think

[60cents]

My 2001 XC70 tranny is on it's way out. Can't complain much though as it has 211000 miles on it. Far as I know it is the original tranny. I've changed the fluids fairly regularly but my mechanic tells me that the fluid is black.. It started shifting hard just this week.

I'm thinking of rebuilding the tranny or looking for a good used one unless someone has another idea

[gjuk]

I hope I can try and get some help with regard to my car please :)

I have a 2005 T5 ex police car with this gearbox and when I had it, the car had a delayed pick up, almost like there was a bit of slack between going on and off the gas when driving before it pulls well.

Changes from P to D to R are clunky and gear changes are okay.

I have done 4 sump changes now with the correct type of fluid and though it has improves things the problem is still there.

I've been to a good Nottingham Volvo indy which say "the gearbox is worn", though no real diagnostics were done.

Is there anything I can do at all to improve things, any additives or changes I can make please?

Car has done 125k now :)

Thanks

Jon

[Bernard333]

Take it to a specialist who knows this gearbox , the majority of Volvo independants and main dealers have never taken one of these apart , they can recognise a faulty gearbox and some can do software updates and change the fluid but thats as far as they will go . Transmission Technology in Solihull will give you an opinion on the gearbox , they are capable of rebuilding or repairing it but unless you really like the car its not worth doing on anything 2005 or older as the cost is likely to be more than the car is worth.

[gjuk]

Understand the cost are high when dealing with such a device. That said I do want to keep the car.

Are there no other DIY checks one can carry out?

[Bernard333]

I am interested in this gearbox because I have one V70 with a faulty AW55-50 , its been sat on my drive for over three years and despite there being an enormous amount of free detailed information available I have not made much progress , my hard drive is clogged up with that many downloads of info all to no avail so far . Dont put any additives in , have not seen any positive comments on additives for ATF or engine oil . I am planning to take mine apart just to satisfy my curiousity in the knowledge that it may never go back together again but nothing to lose so may as well before I scrap the car. The only positive comment I have seen is using a higher spec fully synthetic ATF in place of fluid meeting the basic JWS3309 requirement , problem with doing this is you could spend £150 then find no improvement .

[kernowvolvo]

One of the common issues with this box is the delay to engage drive. When cold it is almost instant ......... when hot, going from either reverse or neutral to drive has about a 2 or 3 second delay and the drive is taken up with a thump. However, when a restart is made (i.e engine off, engine on) then it will engage drive instantaneously (i.e. no noticeable delay). It could be a sticking solenoid, but the fact that it never occurs on a restart makes me think it is software related.

......... I think that this maybe something to do with the adaption settings and I keep meaning to have them reset when I have the time.

The delay issue causes no codes, no fail indication, and has been like it for the last 25K miles. I have changed the fluid and this made no difference. The car has done 76K

I seem to have the same symptoms as above, can anybody give me some more information such as how to fix and the costs involved? The car is a S60 2.4T SE Auto 2002 with 130K on the clock with full volvo history.
Thanks

[Norfolk Jim]

Are you not able to do the adaptives setting yourself? I thought this box was same as Saab tiptronic so you start engine keeping hand brake on. Move lever into D for 5 seconds then to N for 5 secs then back to D for 5 doing this 5 times then the same for reverse going N then R for 5 then back to N for 5 again for 5. Then put into 1 and back to D then 1 again for 5 goes. Then go out in car and find a nice clear piece of road to slowly get car up to 50KPH.......I'll dig out the Saab info and post it as I was sure it was same box and was superb as it got used to your method of driving. I did it on my Saab and excellent results and cheaper than dealers doing it.

Apologise if I have the wrong box!

[kernowvolvo]

Are you not able to do the adaptives setting yourself? I thought this box was same as Saab tiptronic so you start engine keeping hand brake on. Move lever into D for 5 seconds then to N for 5 secs then back to D for 5 doing this 5 times then the same for reverse going N then R for 5 then back to N for 5 again for 5. Then put into 1 and back to D then 1 again for 5 goes. Then go out in car and find a nice clear piece of road to slowly get car up to 50KPH.......I'll dig out the Saab info and post it as I was sure it was same box and was superb as it got used to your method of driving. I did it on my Saab and excellent results and cheaper than dealers doing it.

Apologise if I have the wrong box!
I believe I have the 5 speed auto box, the car is fairly new to me and has just started with these symptoms, I didn't know about the adaptive settings.
The car also seems to go into neutral when going down hill not under power and has on one occasion seem to have gone into neutral when going up hill not under power then when pressing the accelerator peddle banged into gear and even caused the wheels to spin slightly on a damp road! I have read about a dealer software reset for cars going into neutral is tis something I need to have done?
Thanks

[Norfolk Jim]

Hope this may help. Its for Saab 9-5 Sentronic box but I believe this is same as in V70?

This is from Saab WIS Workshop Information System so TechII won't apply as it will be Volvo own diagnostic system.

Hope they are readable as have to use XP mode on Win 7 system

[dgmacc]

One of the common issues with this box is the delay to engage drive. When cold it is almost instant ......... when hot, going from either reverse or neutral to drive has about a 2 or 3 second delay and the drive is taken up with a thump. However, when a restart is made (i.e engine off, engine on) then it will engage drive instantaneously (i.e. no noticeable delay). It could be a sticking solenoid, but the fact that it never occurs on a restart makes me think it is software related.

......... I think that this maybe something to do with the adaption settings and I keep meaning to have them reset when I have the time.

The delay issue causes no codes, no fail indication, and has been like it for the last 25K miles. I have changed the fluid and this made no difference. The car has done 76K

I seem to have the same symptoms as above, can anybody give me some more information such as how to fix and the costs involved? The car is a S60 2.4T SE Auto 2002 with 130K on the clock with full volvo history.
Thanks

I also have the harsh "garage shift" thump/delay from N to D as described above (on a 2001 V70). It is similarly intermittent which is the most puzzling part.

Here is the background so far on my attempts to remedy this:


Trans fluid changed by Volvo at 90k miles (now c115k).
No VIDA codes thrown by gearbox - in generally good order, well maintained (car in family from new). Shifts quite well in all respects except when stationary.
Stop/neutral removal via TCM software upgrade only done recently (2012).
I performed the full set of VIDA adaptations as per the tech bulletin doing the rounds. Outcome of this was that all shift patterns EXCEPT stationary Neutral to Drive resulted in a "thumbs up" from the TCM in the shape of the flashing yellow confirmation triangle on the dash display.


However, even with me taking an extra hour to go through the routine over & over again, the N to D shift adaptation did not result in a yellow triangle, i.e. a positive acknowledgement from the TCM that it was happy.

The only other (non-invasive!) task I was thinking of trying was to erase the TCM memory with VIDA prior to performing the adaptation again - however I have read elsewhere that switching on adaptation mode erases the memory anyway.

Any further thoughts from anyone? Thanks.

[kernowvolvo]

I believe I have the 5 speed auto box, the car is fairly new to me and has just started with these symptoms, I didn't know about the adaptive settings.
The car also seems to go into neutral when going down hill not under power and has on one occasion seem to have gone into neutral when going up hill not under power then when pressing the accelerator peddle banged into gear and even caused the wheels to spin slightly on a damp road! I have read about a dealer software reset for cars going into neutral is tis something I need to have done?
Thanks

I have just checked the info plate on top of the box which says....

55-50N 8636.763 02EV701947

can anybody tell me if this is the year and type of box that causes most problems? I have just checked the ATF and all seems fine i.e colour, smell and level.
what is the best course of action to start with to try and sort this problem?
Thanks

[Aveton Gifford]

I have just checked the info plate on top of the box which says....

55-50N 8636.763 02EV701947

can anybody tell me if this is the year and type of box that causes most problems? I have just checked the ATF and all seems fine i.e colour, smell and level.
what is the best course of action to start with to try and sort this problem?
Thanks

The gearboxes themselves don't cause the problems, it's the Volvo software (mainly the stop neutral function) and the fact that Volvo decided the gearbox is "sealed for life" as far as the transmission fluid is concerned while every other company that uses the box (Toyota, Saab etc) have or had a regular fluid service in there schedules.

Judging by the symptoms you have listed before, I suspect your car may still have the stop neutral function active. The way to tell is to stop somewhere as if you have come to a stop at some traffic lights (car still in D) and wait for roughly 4 seconds, and you should feel the gearbox go into neutral.

Judging by the age and mileage of your car, I doubt it will ever have had the transmission fluid changed, it should be a VERY bright cherry red colour, not brown.

When I bought my car at the beginning of March last year, it had already had the neutral feature removed but it had never had a fluid change at 9 years old and 113,000 miles, with a full Volvo service history, and when I contacted the previous owner I discovered the neutral function had only been removed by Volvo because he asked them to do it!



As for your course of action, you should change the fluid in the box completely, either using the Gibbons method or by doing 4 or 5 sump dumps, then you need to go to Volvo and have them remove the "stop neutral" function and update the software.

Really, you need to remove the "stop neutral" function as soon as possible, but if you have it done at the same time as the software update you will only pay once, however, if you have the funds, I would have it done ASAP

Thinking about it, it may be part of a recall, so it may be worth ringing either Kastner in Exeter or Truro Motor Company in Truro and finding out if it can be done for free, I have always dealt with Truro Motor Company and they are very friendly and efficient, I have never dealt with Kastner, but that is where the previous owner of my car used to take it.

Sorry to ramble on for so long, but I hope it has been of some help, you can always drop me a PM if you have any other question:thumbs_up:

[kernowvolvo]

The gearboxes themselves don't cause the problems, it's the Volvo software (mainly the stop neutral function) and the fact that Volvo decided the gearbox is "sealed for life" as far as the transmission fluid is concerned while every other company that uses the box (Toyota, Saab etc) have or had a regular fluid service in there schedules.

Judging by the symptoms you have listed before, I suspect your car may still have the stop neutral function active. The way to tell is to stop somewhere as if you have come to a stop at some traffic lights (car still in D) and wait for roughly 4 seconds, and you should feel the gearbox go into neutral.

Judging by the age and mileage of your car, I doubt it will ever have had the transmission fluid changed, it should be a VERY bright cherry red colour, not brown.

When I bought my car at the beginning of March last year, it had already had the neutral feature removed but it had never had a fluid change at 9 years old and 113,000 miles, with a full Volvo service history, and when I contacted the previous owner I discovered the neutral function had only been removed by Volvo because he asked them to do it!



As for your course of action, you should change the fluid in the box completely, either using the Gibbons method or by doing 4 or 5 sump dumps, then you need to go to Volvo and have them remove the "stop neutral" function and update the software.

Really, you need to remove the "stop neutral" function as soon as possible, but if you have it done at the same time as the software update you will only pay once, however, if you have the funds, I would have it done ASAP

Thinking about it, it may be part of a recall, so it may be worth ringing either Kastner in Exeter or Truro Motor Company in Truro and finding out if it can be done for free, I have always dealt with Truro Motor Company and they are very friendly and efficient, I have never dealt with Kastner, but that is where the previous owner of my car used to take it.

Sorry to ramble on for so long, but I hope it has been of some help, you can always drop me a PM if you have any other question:thumbs_up:

Thanks for the information my car has a full kastner history so ill check with them.
The other problem I've got is that only when the box is warm when putting into drive or any forward gears from park or neutral there is a delay of a couple of seconds then it goes into drive with a thump. Also now and again when travelling at slow speed in traffic not under power then accelerate it can thump into gear and jump forward! Will this also be cured with a software upgrade?
Thanks

[Aveton Gifford]

Mine did this to me a couple of times, it was usually when approaching a roundabout, the car would be coasting, then when you put your foot on the accelerator it would bang back into gear. Another member on the forum suggested that it was down to worn suspension wishbones.

I have replaced the wishbones on my car and I have to admit it hasn't done it since (touch wood!) but I have also changed the fluid in my auto box, changed the lower gearbox mount, the top engine mount, the hub bolts and I have stiffened the engine strut brace, so I can't really narrow it down to one thing I'm afraid, but things improved ten fold with my gearbox when I used the Gibbons method to change the oil, the box is now a lot smoother and quieter than it ever was before.:thumbs_up:

My only remaining problem is the very occasional clunk when the gearbox changes down from 2nd to 1st when the gearbox is warm, which means I am going to have to remove the solenoids and clean them, as this is due to a build up of dirt and metal particles in them which prevents them from working correctly at high temperatures, this is what will be causing your thump when putting the car into gear when it is warm, but changing the fluid will help reduce this, or may eliminate it completely if you are lucky.

When you change the fluid and have the software updated you should notice a huge improvement in the box, the rough changing should become a lot less frequent and when the stop neutral has gone the banging into gear when pulling away or coasting will go too. :thumbs_up:

[kernowvolvo]

Mine did this to me a couple of times, it was usually when approaching a roundabout, the car would be coasting, then when you put your foot on the accelerator it would bang back into gear. Another member on the forum suggested that it was down to worn suspension wishbones.

I have replaced the wishbones on my car and I have to admit it hasn't done it since (touch wood!) but I have also changed the fluid in my auto box, changed the lower gearbox mount, the top engine mount, the hub bolts and I have stiffened the engine strut brace, so I can't really narrow it down to one thing I'm afraid, but things improved ten fold with my gearbox when I used the Gibbons method to change the oil, the box is now a lot smoother and quieter than it ever was before.:thumbs_up:

My only remaining problem is the very occasional clunk when the gearbox changes down from 2nd to 1st when the gearbox is warm, which means I am going to have to remove the solenoids and clean them, as this is due to a build up of dirt and metal particles in them which prevents them from working correctly at high temperatures, this is what will be causing your thump when putting the car into gear when it is warm, but changing the fluid will help reduce this, or may eliminate it completely if you are lucky.

When you change the fluid and have the software updated you should notice a huge improvement in the box, the rough changing should become a lot less frequent and when the stop neutral has gone the banging into gear when pulling away or coasting will go too. :thumbs_up:


Thanks where about in Cornwall are you sounds like you know your stuff?

[kernowvolvo]

Mine did this to me a couple of times, it was usually when approaching a roundabout, the car would be coasting, then when you put your foot on the accelerator it would bang back into gear. Another member on the forum suggested that it was down to worn suspension wishbones.

I have replaced the wishbones on my car and I have to admit it hasn't done it since (touch wood!) but I have also changed the fluid in my auto box, changed the lower gearbox mount, the top engine mount, the hub bolts and I have stiffened the engine strut brace, so I can't really narrow it down to one thing I'm afraid, but things improved ten fold with my gearbox when I used the Gibbons method to change the oil, the box is now a lot smoother and quieter than it ever was before.:thumbs_up:

My only remaining problem is the very occasional clunk when the gearbox changes down from 2nd to 1st when the gearbox is warm, which means I am going to have to remove the solenoids and clean them, as this is due to a build up of dirt and metal particles in them which prevents them from working correctly at high temperatures, this is what will be causing your thump when putting the car into gear when it is warm, but changing the fluid will help reduce this, or may eliminate it completely if you are lucky.

When you change the fluid and have the software updated you should notice a huge improvement in the box, the rough changing should become a lot less frequent and when the stop neutral has gone the banging into gear when pulling away or coasting will go too. :thumbs_up:


Just contacted Kastner Volvo Exeter who inform me that the software upgrade was carried out at the last service 12 months ago!
They charge £180 for a ATF flush and change and £25 for a software upgrade. If the solenoids need changing its about £1500!!!!!! That's more then I paid for the car.
Kastner told me they very rarely changed the solenoids and think if it a flush and software upgrade won't end the problem then it's an internal problem! New gear box at £4000!!! Am I waiting my money changing the fluid and software upgrade to find out it will not improve?
Thanks

[Aveton Gifford]

Well at those prices I would say yes! the thing is I did all the work on my car myself, which will include cleaning out the solenoids, the only part Volvo did was the software upgrade which cost the same as your quote.

Did they do a software upgrade or did they just remove the stop neutral function?

And it has to be said that you can get a decent re-furbished gearbox for as much as they are quoting just for changing the solenoids!

You need to find somebody who will do the work for you, or at least a decent, independent Volvo specialist.

Sadly the only two specialists in Cornwall are:

http://www.rmvolvo.co.uk/ based in Penzance or:

http://www.seymourhorwell.com/ based in Newton Abbot

Alternatively you could try an gearbox specialist, here are two:

http://www.cdtransmissions.com/ this company quote £1250 for a refurbished gearbox fitted here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Volvo-V40-S40-V40-S60-V70-S70-S80-XC70-XC90-Automatic-Gearbox-Auto-Transmission-/321052413299?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ac0370d73

http://www.autogearspecialist.co.uk/truro/cornwall/

I can't endorse any of these companies, as I haven't used them, but maybe someone on here has. Where Volvo gearboxes are concerned, the dealerships don't want to know, and most of them don't know where to start to diagnose problems with them, there policy seems to be just to replace them!

And just for your information, the solenoids can be bought from the U.S.A for £158.37 delivered, so that is a lot of labour they are quoting you for at £1500!! they quote high so that you won't ask them to do the work!!

To be honest, most of the people on this forum with older cars do the repairs themselves, and most of them will advise you to steer clear of Volvo Dealers unless it is absolutely essential that you have to go to them (for software upgrades for instance)

[Aveton Gifford]

It also has to be said that at £180 I don't think they will be flushing the gearbox, it seems too cheap, that sounds more like just dropping the oil out of the pan and re-filling it so if you do go ahead with it make sure they are going to flush it properly, or it will be a waste of money!

[kernowvolvo]

It also has to be said that at £180 I don't think they will be flushing the gearbox, it seems too cheap, that sounds more like just dropping the oil out of the pan and re-filling it so if you do go ahead with it make sure they are going to flush it properly, or it will be a waste of money!

I have just contacted a friend who runs a porsche independent garage who is a fully trained porsche engineer and he is going to do the full flush and fluid change for me then take it to Kastners for the software upgrade (Kastners could not tell me what software upgrade was done just that it was done so maybe the neutral part still hasn't been sorted)
My friend also told me that he had done a Audi which had the same symptoms as mine and after a fluid change the car was completely different saying due to only happening when hot could mean fluid degraded and the change will make a lot of difference. So here's hoping.

[Aveton Gifford]

My friend also told me that he had done a Audi which had the same symptoms as mine and after a fluid change the car was completely different saying due to only happening when hot could mean fluid degraded and the change will make a lot of difference. So here's hoping.

That's excellent news, just make sure he uses the correct fluid or you WILL have to replace the gearbox! it has to be JWS3309 or the equivalent, and Volvo dealers are the most expensive place to purchase it, do a quick search on here to find alternatives :thumbs_up:

As for what he said about the Audi, I have to agree with him, my car was totally transformed, and it's obvious he knows what he is talking about, I just didn't want to say to you that everything would be fine after an expensive dealer fluid change only for you to not notice any change! but I would be very surprised if it didn't totally transform the gearbox.

Let us know how you get on :):)

[Aveton Gifford]

Also make sure he tells Kastners that you want the software upgrade, you want them to make sure the stop neutral function has been removed and you want them to re-set the gearbox parameters :thumbs_up:

[kernowvolvo]

That's excellent news, just make sure he uses the correct fluid or you WILL have to replace the gearbox! it has to be JWS3309 or the equivalent, and Volvo dealers are the most expensive place to purchase it, do a quick search on here to find alternatives :thumbs_up:

As for what he said about the Audi, I have to agree with him, my car was totally transformed, and it's obvious he knows what he is talking about, I just didn't want to say to you that everything would be fine after an expensive dealer fluid change only for you to not notice any change! but I would be very surprised if it didn't totally transform the gearbox.

Let us know how you get on :):)

Will let you know how I get on just quoted me for a service and complete gearbox flush etc and getting the software upgrade done at volvo and giving the car a complete check over for £253 all in. I will check with him to make sure the right fluid is quoted for.
I can also be assured that it will be done properly!!!!
Getting back to box fluid I've just checked out on the GSF parts site they are saying Carlube ATF-U at £7.80 can anybody tell me if this is a match and if anybody has used it?

[paolo]

Try this;
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-60226-millers-oils-millermatic-atf-sp-iii.aspx

[Aveton Gifford]

Opie oils in Redruth sells Millers ATF-U which other members have used before, or you can buy Mobil's own JWS 3309, or Toyota T-IV.

You can use Carlube ATF-U but some people have said it doesn't work very well, some of them have found themselves changing it again after around 10,000 miles.

The stuff from Opies seems to get the thumbs up, but you can always give them a ring, they are very knowledgeable and always happy to help :thumbs_up:

I don't know about the one Paolo has put in the above link, but the technical data sheet says it meets the specification for Toyota T-IV so it should be usable, maybe Paolo has used it and can advise you further.

[coastie123]

Hi guys, i've been keeping an eye on this thread for a while whilst i try and sort out my v70..

the car in question is V70 P2 W reg, 2000

Had all the jerkyness, Flaring between 2-3 and clonking into gear etc..

I changed the B4 servo cover and ATF fluid using the Gibbons method but i still have the same syptoms.. do you think my gearbox is shot??

I'm calling Kastner in Exeter tomorrow to get the Stop neutral Function and Software updated to see if that works.. I had the TCM-0012A come up earlier which is the first time in 4 weeks which i'm thinking is the Stop Neutral thingy..

Heres my thread i started Clicky (http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=169843)

just been browsing through some other threads on here and also found this...

You might need to change the bulkhead mount rubber bush that the engine top mount connects to, if that is shot it will let it move around, the next mount that gets hammered when the top mount is shot is the gearbox lower torque link, easy to change as it simply unbolts

could this also be something to do with the gear changing???

[Aveton Gifford]

I don't know about the flaring, as this isn't something that my car suffers from, although that said I don't really know what it is so it may do and I may not have noticed.

Having read your other thread, you need to find out if your box still has the stop neutral function active, if it does, as sonyvaio says, get it removed, and the gearbox software will definitely help.

The engine mounts do make a difference to the amount the engine/box moves, as do the wishbones, I have replaced all of them on my car and it improved things ten fold

The clunking could be down to the solenoids being dirty and gummed up, mine still does it occasionally and I will be either replacing or cleaning mine out when the weather improves, the problem here is the fact that the solenoids are magnetic, so they attract any small particles of metal which, over the course of say, 70,000 miles cause them to stick, this is why the gearbox oil should be changed regularly (ta Volvo-sealed for life my A***)

As I have said before, these gearboxes are fitted to many different vehicles and it is only Volvo's that have all these problems with them, and it's down to the fact that they don't have a transmission fluid change on there service schedules and the software they installed, so having the revised software installed and cleaning out the box helps a lot!

Good luck :thumbs_up:

[coastie123]

Cheers Averton...

The Flaring is between gear change 2-3, gets to 3000 revs in 2nd and then jumps out of gear, revs over 4k and then back into gear which is what the B4 servo cover should help with but in my case it didnt..

i've just ordered a genuine top mount and bush so will see what happens when that arrives aswell!!

Seems the previous owner of my car, believed volvo in the Sealed for Like Rubbish, my used engine was cleaner than gearbox oil.. lets hope that it's not knackered..

Is there a thread/how to, on checking solenoids, replacing solenoids etc??

[Aveton Gifford]

Here you go bud

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=156948

It's not as scary as it looks, and if you don't want to clean out the old solenoids you can buy new ones from the states for about £158 delivered :thumbs_up:

[Aveton Gifford]

And thanks for the flaring explanation, mine doesn't do that, is yours a geartronic because I thought those symptoms (flaring) only affected them, though I am probably wrong (again!)

[coastie123]

And thanks for the flaring explanation, mine doesn't do that, is yours a geartronic because I thought those symptoms (flaring) only affected them, though I am probably wrong (again!)

nope just the standard 5 speed rubbish!!

[nickbw898]

I don't think you should be so quick to rubbish the gearbox it is in very widespread use throughout the automotive industry. It is lack of maintenance and the not changing the fluid. I have a MY01 with 138K and the gearbox is sweet but in the six years I have had it I have twice flushed the box with 17 litres of fluid using Gibbon's method. Even Toyota specify changing the fluid every 30K!

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?12169-The-BIG-Transmission-Posting-Gibbons-method-other-goodies!

[MrCrusher]

If the ATF cooler coil in the radiator would perforate, then this would allow engine coolant to get into the tranny oil. I gather that this is very bad for the tranny.

I can think of £1770 worth of reasons why this is very bad.

As for using just the front mounted "auxiliary" cooler on the gearbox rather than the official rad/ gearbox oil cooler combination set up, I was advised by 3 or 4 gearbox specialists that this was the way Volvo should have worked the gearbox oil cooler in the first place. Their radiator/ oil cooler combination method is the main reason these boxes fail- coolant in the ATF. Just an inevitable failure waiting to happen.

Don't know if that correct or not, coolant in the ATF certainly killed my auto-box.

[Jim314]

All automatic transmissions that I know of use as OE use an ATF cooler in the radiator, that is, a heat exchanger into the engine coolant. The ATF-to-atmosphere heat exchanger is usually an option for a towing package, and this is in series with the one in the radiator.

Corrosion of the ATF cooler in the radiator can lead to contamination of the ATF with engine coolant and for that reason one should change the engine coolant every 5 years to insure that the anticorrosion chemicals are active. I think that Volvo should recommend changing the coolant on a 5-year schedule.

But I don't think that coolant contamination of the ATF is the main cause of failure of the Aisin AW 55-50/51 SN gearboxes. I think that hard use of the vehicle with worn out and contaminated ATF is the main cause of failure.

[nickbw898]

It is not true. Failure to use a 50/50 solution of the correct antifreeze and renew it every two years is the reason this happens. I have an F plate 240 still going strong on the same setup. I worked in a Renault Main Stealer for many years. One of the most common major jobs done was replacing heater matrix. This on cars >3 years old!!! The seating and all interior floor trim came out because the coolant ends up inside the car like a swimming pool. The technicians all agreed this was because not only were the heater cores paper thin but the coolant crap. The anti corrosive additives are as important as antifreeze characteristics. Particularly in a Volvo you will find correct antifreeze condition is critical to keeping normal engine temperature.Its anticorrosion properties are first rate.

[Alinherts]

I am having problems with my auto transmission:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=168949

The gearbox has been out a few times now and rebuilt but it is still not right. The specialists are now saying they need to replace the ecu. Does the ecu affect the transmission?

[MrCrusher]

It is not true. Failure to use a 50/50 solution of the correct antifreeze and renew it every two years is the reason this happens. I have an F plate 240 still going strong on the same setup. I worked in a Renault Main Stealer for many years. One of the most common major jobs done was replacing heater matrix. This on cars >3 years old!!! The seating and all interior floor trim came out because the coolant ends up inside the car like a swimming pool. The technicians all agreed this was because not only were the heater cores paper thin but the coolant crap. The anti corrosive additives are as important as antifreeze characteristics. Particularly in a Volvo you will find correct antifreeze condition is critical to keeping normal engine temperature.Its anticorrosion properties are first rate.

When I bought the car, I got a pretty good service history showing mega money spent maintaining the car and services approx every 6000miles with coolant done every 2nd service. Even got receipts for 2 ATF changes before the engine rebuild ( with itemised receipts for all parts and fluids) at 180,000 miles. I got the car at 185000. Three weeks and 300miles later, total gearbox failure due to coolant contamination via the ATF cooler in the rad.

As for coolant contamination being the main cause of failure, thats probably just the gearbox specialist trying to "sell" the rebuild. When 3 or 4 tell you the same thing, well...... You have to wonder.

Now the ETM is acting up. Arrrggghhhhh.

[Youmitegetian]

I don't know about the software updates for an 06 car, but Volvo do not specify ANY changes of the oil in the box.

Saab/Lexus/GM etc all DO.

Saab is 60k miles I think

So if other manufacturers use this box with better service schedules, can we not just use a replacement box from one of these other cars?

[coastie123]

So if other manufacturers use this box with better service schedules, can we not just use a replacement box from one of these other cars?

Someone may correct me if I'm wrong but...

YES they do use the same box but I do believe they have different year ratio etc..

[Youmitegetian]

Someone may correct me if I'm wrong but...

YES they do use the same box but I do believe they have different year ratio etc..
would that be a huge problem tho? Do they physically fit? and would any wiring internally be adaptable?

[coastie123]

would that be a huge problem tho? Do they physically fit? and would any wiring internally be adaptable?

heres a word document i've just dug out off the net...

it seems as if the solenoids for the gears are totally different on which ones on and off etc..

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&q=cache:WQMY_EMFyYAJ:avtopedia.ru/akpp/AW55-50%2520SN.doc+&hl=en&gl=uk&pid=bl&srcid=ADGEESi_qo6t_SQ_-I2hpHaBa1EQoAIfIhAcNKRsQpIq5qV_L-PzSuiChUpdurcNlyoMUPYmN6vhkfZ2pK7vBw-heldStnBb-uri2Dc4yD7MvvTF-7rGBU_SFJaBYMStG_qoZfJxXnfj&sig=AHIEtbS-STyENSHNqYFznu4LLVYJd80gAA

the link should take you to google quick view and open it up in google rather than downloading to the pc..

Have a look at the Volvo and GM charts on pages 7 & 8

that should explain the differences..

[Youmitegetian]

Ah well im sure its been thought of before and dismissed for those reasons, i guess i just gotta hope a fluid flush will at least help a bit

[coastie123]

Ah well im sure its been thought of before and dismissed for those reasons, i guess i just gotta hope a fluid flush will at least help a bit

check out my post on This thread (http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=176358) #9

im guessing you have the same issues as me!!

[Youmitegetian]

check out my post on This thread (http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=176358) #9

im guessing you have the same issues as me!!

Yep same issues, i can live with it to be honest but figure i may as well try and fix it, although judging by your experience it may not be fixable realistically,

i am finding it less harsh the more i drive it but i think thats because im driving it in the knowledge it may slip or jolt so ease the throttle back when pulling away which is when its worse

[coastie123]

Yep same issues, i can live with it to be honest but figure i may as well try and fix it, although judging by your experience it may not be fixable realistically,

i am finding it less harsh the more i drive it but i think thats because im driving it in the knowledge it may slip or jolt so ease the throttle back when pulling away which is when its worse

Same here - you know when it's going to do it!!!

Dont let it beat you, im trying all options, i done mine the other way round and have left the software update till last which i shouldnt of done really but hey ho.

here's (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rB5Mw8lGh7A) a great video on how to clean up the solenoids etc...

[Youmitegetian]

Same here - you know when it's going to do it!!!

Dont let it beat you, im trying all options, i done mine the other way round and have left the software update till last which i shouldnt of done really but hey ho.

here's (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rB5Mw8lGh7A) a great video on how to clean up the solenoids etc...

ive got an invoice for a software upgrade that was done in 2009 with the neutral thingy that stops it going for neutral after stopping for 2 seconds, do you think they have another update since then? my first job was going to be the B4 and ATF but then i know i have to do the counter reset, is that something that is main dealer only or can someone with the clone software do it?

[coastie123]

anyone with Vida/Dice can do it...

It might be worth giving the dealer a ring and ask them if htere has been an update since 2009 - im guessing there should be.... I dont think mines ever had one!!

I know i cant do the Adaptation until i've had the software update done so im letting volvo do it for me!!

the part numbers are

30646691 - neutral control
30677036 TCM update

for the 2 part numbers and the adaptation etc cost approx £60 to do in Exeter..

when you ring your local dealer, book a 'Free' Volvo Safety Inspection where once again they are supposed to check for software updates, although any that are available will be a cost item. Just tell them if you do book one you are interested in a TCM update. If they say anything about diagnostic then say your not interested as they will charge for a dignostic (read codes) which they will do anyway by checking software as part of the 'Free' safety inspection.

here's the info on the safety inspection (http://www.volvocars.com/uk/sales-services/services/service-products/free-safety-inspection/Pages/default.aspx?r=safetyinspection)

Here's whats included (http://www.volvocars.com/uk/sales-services/services/service-products/free-safety-inspection/Pages/safety-inspection-checks.aspx)

[Youmitegetian]

anyone with Vida/Dice can do it...

It might be worth giving the dealer a ring and ask them if htere has been an update since 2009 - im guessing there should be.... I dont think mines ever had one!!

I know i cant do the Adaptation until i've had the software update done so im letting volvo do it for me!!

the part numbers are

30646691 - neutral control
30677036 TCM update

for the 2 part numbers and the adaptation etc cost approx £60 to do in Exeter..

when you ring your local dealer, book a 'Free' Volvo Safety Inspection where once again they are supposed to check for software updates, although any that are available will be a cost item. Just tell them if you do book one you are interested in a TCM update. If they say anything about diagnostic then say your not interested as they will charge for a dignostic (read codes) which they will do anyway by checking software as part of the 'Free' safety inspection.

that sounds like the a good option but think i should change the fluid first as its not the best colour, more brown than pink so doubt its ever been changed.

[SonyVaio]

software upgrade that was done in 2009 with the neutral thingy that stops it going for neutral after stopping for 2 seconds, do you think they have another update since then?

Hi, there is updates since 2009 for the AW box.

Some dealers do not like doing updates unless the box is reporting an error code but just insist on it and it will be done.

:star-wars-smiley-01

[Youmitegetian]

Hi, there is updates since 2009 for the AW box.

Some dealers do not like doing updates unless the box is reporting an error code but just insist on it and it will be done.

:star-wars-smiley-01

ive done the diagnostic check using the stalk button and fog light switch and among the other modules showing faults the gearbox is too so they should do it,

[Youmitegetian]

heres a thought, most of these gearboxes tend to be worse when warmed up, mine certainly is, i imagine this is due to the oil getting thinner when its hot, y not use thicker oil when the box is flushed? i know it has to be 3309 oil but is there an alternative that stays slightly thicker once hot?

[SonyVaio]

You really don't want to be using anything else other than the correct spec of oil in these auto boxes. It is pretty imperative otherwise a very early and expensive demise will come to the box as it ceases to function.

:star-wars-smiley-01

[jgjones095]

who has used carlube ATF U fluid in their boxes.
how have you found them afterwards?

According to the tin this is JWS 3309 spec ATF

[greasyfingers]

who has used carlube ATF U fluid in their boxes.
how have you found them afterwards?

[Raises hand] Yep. It's certainly the cheapest option; I bought 4 x 1 gallon (4.55litres) mail order for just over 100 quid, but then found GSF do a similar price on gallon cans of it.

I can't give you a long term report, because I only did the original flush (Gibbon's method) a couple of months ago. However, it has to be said that after flushing through a full 20 litres (including 2 litres I bought locally in B&Q for a trial run before the mail order stuff came), the fluid was still a dark and murky brown. In theory, it should have been better than 90% new at that stage, but it has to be said that the old stuff was pitch black and horrible.

About a month later, I did a sump dump - slightly over 3.5 litres replaced - and that has improved the colour greatly. I think if I was doing it again, I would just do 3 or 4 sump dumps.

There are those who will tell you that Carlube stuff is no good, and that it's cheap because it's rubbish, but I've had no real problems so far, and I would say that it has improved the smoothness of the box a little, though it was pretty good before.

[nickbw898]

If one takes the trouble to read across all sites for Volvo enthusiasts, particularly those in North America - where there are very large numbers of Volvos and AWD Volvos. You will find overwhelming evidence to support the fact that the auto gearboxes are used in a very wide range of cars by lots of manufacturers and with very dependable success. Two things above all else contribute to their premature troublesome behaviour or demise. Firstly Volvo's own adaptation of the software management, "neutral stop" being but one example in the P2 2001 model year. The other being Volvo's adoption of the concept that the fluid was fit to last the life of the vehicle. Some valve bodies, especially early years were poorly designed but on the whole these gear boxes have returned very reliable service and high mileages, yet Toyota/Asin Warner specify fluid changes themselves and the changes are a standard part of good maintenance.

[RM955I]

In Volvo's eyes, and rightly so, the "life" of the vehicle is probably 3 years and x000 miles: they can't be expected to over-engineer parts to such an extent that they will never need replacing. People bellyaching that at 10+ year old car with 100000 miles or more on the clock may have transmission problems seems a tad odd to me - either buy new, buy a warranty or accept that used cars don't go on forever.

[jgjones095]

i have a citroen ax 95 (driven for 15 years and parked for 2) - and a ford focus 98 (mothers old car and still on the road which have done just as many miles as my younger v70xc and have no tranny issues with them!
thinking about it i don't even think the focus box oil has ever been changed!0


the point is volvo say sealed for life, yet other manufacturers who use the same box say oil change every x000 miles.

stupid volvo!

[gjuk]

In Volvo's eyes, and rightly so, the "life" of the vehicle is probably 3 years and x000 miles: they can't be expected to over-engineer parts to such an extent that they will never need replacing. People bellyaching that at 10+ year old car with 100000 miles or more on the clock may have transmission problems seems a tad odd to me - either buy new, buy a warranty or accept that used cars don't go on forever.

That is retarded.

Vehicle life of 3 years? Really?

[RM955I]

the point is volvo say sealed for life, yet other manufacturers who use the same box say oil change every x000 miles.

stupid volvo!I think that is a popular misconception, but am open to correction. I'm not aware of Volvo making any such claim and it is my understanding that they actually refer to sealed for the life of the factory warranty subject to normal use.

[RM955I]

That is retarded.

Vehicle life of 3 years? Really?
Why would they have any interest in what happens beyond the normal warranty period? True, the likes of Hyundai and Kia are offering longer warranties but even then, their interest is only as long as the vehicle warranty. I am aware that SAAB used to offer longer engine warranties but even that was subject to a fully stamped-up main dealer history.

[Christerart]

In Volvo's eyes, and rightly so, the "life" of the vehicle is probably 3 years and x000 miles: they can't be expected to over-engineer parts to such an extent that they will never need replacing. People bellyaching that at 10+ year old car with 100000 miles or more on the clock may have transmission problems seems a tad odd to me - either buy new, buy a warranty or accept that used cars don't go on forever.

When I left Arizona and moved to the UK I sold the '92 Volvo 940SE auto I was driving. At the time it had 310K miles on it - engine and transmission never worked on except for stuff like oil and filter changes (every 5K miles), transmission fluid changed every 50K and a new cam belt every 90K miles.

The box worked perfectly - and I guess you could say that most of the year it was under hard ship conditions - often 40ºC+.

[Norfolk Jim]

ATF change tomorrow - lets see what difference it makes and then main dealers for TCM Update for 50 quid.... :)

[jgjones095]

enjoy!

have you any issues with your box jim?

[Youmitegetian]

ATF change tomorrow - lets see what difference it makes and then main dealers for TCM Update for 50 quid.... :)

Just interested to know how the flush went? What oil did u use?

[Norfolk Jim]

Well I went to the Saab/GM dealer in Norwich and bought the fluid off them. The Saab 9-5 uses the same gearbox and same fluid JWS3309. I know the parts guy well as used to own Saabs. Volvo wanted £££'s for the fluid; Saab price £10.95 +VAT; GM £9.20 +VAT.

The GM stuff is the same as Saab and the same bottle in different box but cheaper. The guy did it for £9 inclusive of VAT so I had 7 litres.

Had the mobile technician Das Automan who is Volvo and VW/Audi trained. He was best Volvo techncian at dealers and really good.

Even before he started he gave the car a good once over and the only thing he pointed out was a slight weep (which he described as common) on side of power steering pump.

He said always give the car a good run before changing the ATF so everything is warmed up and the old flows out better.

He used the VIDA2012D method of draining the ATF which involved draining box, replace plug and new washer, disconnect cooler return pipe and replace with clear pipe. Gear lever in P and fill with 2 litres of fluid. Start engine and let it idle. Stop engine when bubble appear in clear pipe. Add 2 more litres of ATF and again start engine and idle till bubble appear. Remove plastic pipe and replace return pipe. Add further 2 litres of ATF and start engine allow to idle and move gear selector through all positions waiting for 4-5 seconds at each gear and return to P and check level.

To my amazement the oil level was absolutely spot on at the cold point (obviously the fluid was cold as it was new). He then took it up road and gave it a good run (engine was warm anyway) and then checked it and spot on for the hot position; perhaps a couple of millimeters below max notch.

So all in I used 6 litres of fluid (as VIDA suggests) and even though I thought gear changes was smooth before the change it was literally imperceptible after the change however................the slight flare from 3-4 in manual mode was still there but not in D and he suggests it is purely software related or he would expect it in D. I'm having TCM update done hopefully this week and he's 100% confident that will solve it. The colour of the old ATF was an engine oil colour - dark brown. He rubbed his fingers through it and said although dark it was actually clean as he was expecting it to be slightly gritty feel. The new on the dipstick is a lovely pink just the same as the bottle.

To make life easier he removed the air intake and the cooling fan for access. He pointed out I had a leak on intercooler which was common but said piece of cake to replace and cheap part.

Recommend him to anyone in Norfolk.

www.dasautoman.co.uk

[RM955I]

I think he's right a out the PAS pump weep.....mine loses absolutely no fluid but there is the tell-tale darkness around the pump of a minuscule weep.

I'd really recommend getting a 3/8 Magnefine filter: it's very easy to fit, filters to 3 microns and also removes ferrous particles

[auzo63]

Having had the 2-3 shift harsh change I bit the bullet and dis a drain and refill twice using Carlube ATF-U as is seems to meet the required specification, I also replaced the B4 Servo cover (that was a mission and on the test drive it shot out! It was not seated 100% and was scratched up from road contact so was replaced again using the Volvo flange screw PN. v00985070 for leverage, much easier) The result is amazing, totally smooth and better than I can ever remember it.

Has anyone else used Carlube ATF-U ? And if so what results have you had over time?

[jgjones095]

did you readapt the box?

what part is no. v00985070? the b4 cover?

ever since flushed the fluid to atf-u car lub and the b4 I now have bad flaring in 2-3 and harsh downshifting

mine could be more serious though

[auzo63]

did you readapt the box?

what part is no. v00985070? the b4 cover?

ever since flushed the fluid to atf-u car lub and the b4 I now have bad flaring in 2-3 and harsh downshifting

mine could be more serious though

That is the part number fro the flange screw to help fitting the B4 Cover, the B4 Cover is Pn. V30751262

I do not have VADIS so cannot readapt the box

It was silky smooth for about 50 miles now has a very slight flair 2-3 but nothing like it was, but as the fluid was still pretty dark brown after the 2nd change I will try another two drain refills and see how it is then.

[supersloath]

Hi

been driving my volvo d5 auto 163bhp and all is well until i tow. I keep getting transmission service fault pop up where i loose gear indications but all still seems to work. Happened last night as i reversed caravan onto the drive. Gear indications come back in 15mins but i have transmission service light on now. Had oil changed previously and software checked. Will try to get codes and post them.
Anyone know is this likely to be in indication or a gearbox fault?
i am assuming it is temperature related to put indication on

[Norfolk Jim]

Well had TCM update done and to be honest there does not seem a great deal of difference and perhaps slightly later gear changes but I still get slight flaring between 3 - 4 so does this sound like the B4 servo needs a cleaning? If so how easy is it to do and how long does it take to do??

[jgjones095]

b4 is about 1 hour

wheel off and up in the air.

though I faild first time as I couldnt remove the circlip.
I had a blackspur tool and with the 90 degree end.

second attempted this time with a squirt of gt85 it came off!

getting the clip back on is also a pain.
I cable tied a long screwdriver to apply pressure then worked the clip on by hand.

mine made no improvement and the flaring is now worse.

[auzo63]

Hi

been driving my volvo d5 auto 163bhp and all is well until i tow. I keep getting transmission service fault pop up where i loose gear indications but all still seems to work. Happened last night as i reversed caravan onto the drive. Gear indications come back in 15mins but i have transmission service light on now. Had oil changed previously and software checked. Will try to get codes and post them.
Anyone know is this likely to be in indication or a gearbox fault?
i am assuming it is temperature related to put indication on

I would assume if you tow that it is due to temperature, the system logs over-tempurature events and after so long at high temp may need to be cleared down with VADIS, and as with mine the system needs to be told that you have changed the fluid on its fluid counter.

[dreadheaded]

I recently bought a 2001 Automatic V70 2.4 petrol that has thrown up the transmission service required light


ATF looks ok and I just got back from Independant Volvo Service and they told me I need a new gearbox, however having looked over the print out from VIDA I wouldnt mind a second opinion because the codes all seem to be TCM related


the 2 main codes I am getting are:

ECM-530D DTC in transmission control module (TCM) - Faulty Signal
TCM-012B Neutral Control No Neutral Control

What do you guys think?

Also I have a load of other minor codes that slightly worry me about the state of the electrics in the car

for example CCM-0003 Fan motor passenger compartment temperature sensor faulty signal, CEM-6C11 Glass break wire Signal too low, and i must have about 15 of them, is this something to worry about?


thanks in advance

[nickbw898]

I assume you are reading these with an OBD2 reader rather than Vida. In Vida each issue will be marked with a colour code indicating the severity and I think you can read off the numbers of times the code is recorded. It is likely these codes have accumulated throughout the life of the car and have not been cleared. I had a similar situation when I first tried Vida/DiCE. I made a note of them and then on the advise of the forum cleared the lot. None of them returned. Might be a thing to try if you can find a member nearby who has Vida/DiCE, you will certainly need this, or a stealer, to clear the codes. Good luck!

[dreadheaded]

no those codes are printed out from a VIDA reading I had done this morning

I dont have the colour codes unfortunately they arent on the print out

[dreadheaded]

Sorry I forgot to add the only real symptoms, are it jolting at lights while brakes are pressed as it seems to shift between neutral and drive, and its slow to engage drive when you pull away, including a very harsh get away if you press the accelerator to early, all the other shifts seem ok

[nickbw898]

Sounds to me very much like your vehicle still has the neutral stop feature enabled. If you read through this and other threads on auto gearbox you will see there is overwhelming opinion this (software) should be removed. It was originally provided by Volvo (not others using same box) to improve fuel consumption figures. Updating the TCM software is also strongly advised. Not withstanding all this, I believe most Volvo Main dealers will avoid doing anything to the gearbox software and not remove neutral stop unless customer kicks up a fuss. My XC was serviced regularly from new by Kastners and they followed that practice.If you do any "servicing" to gearbox then it is important to have the adaptions done (improves changes and limits wear) and have the TCF fluid counter re-set. All of which needs Vida/DiCE. This thread on VolvXC.com explains codes http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?22955-Understanding-diagnostic-result-from-Vida&highlight=Vida+codes

[dreadheaded]

I should say I am actually certain the car still has the stop neutral system on

It was meant to be sorted today, however the volvo servers were not working at the time and we could not get the software

I will be going back to get it done, however the mechanic was wary of doing a gearbox flush

I have been doing a little experiment and have found that by putting the car in L when I stop the car does not engage neutral (as it is programmed to do) and while doing this the car seems to behave as normal, no noticable gearbox issues

I am thinking perhaps I should just get the updates done and the codes cleared and then just see what happens!

[RM955I]

I have done 4 sump dumps over the last 20,000 miles replacing approx 15 litres of ATF. I have never needed a forced adaptation.

[Pozzouk]

Evening All,

I have the Auto 55/50 five speed box on my 99/2000 V70. For the record it took me years to get the main dealer to sort out the stop neutral problem! But recently i have noticed that after a 5/6 mile run when i reverse onto my driveway no problem - but as i put the car into drive and move forward to my gates there is second or two's delay and the box clunks heavily into gear?????

If i notice that momentary delay i take the car out of gear switch off and restart then select drive no problem nice and smooth.........i suspect there is an over pressurization or similar - any ideas?????

Pozzouk.

[de1980]

hi i have a v70 d5 with a 55-50sn and im wondering if a 55-50sn of a t5 will fit could anyone help

[nickbw898]

Evening All,

I have the Auto 55/50 five speed box on my 99/2000 V70. For the record it took me years to get the main dealer to sort out the stop neutral problem! But recently i have noticed that after a 5/6 mile run when i reverse onto my driveway no problem - but as i put the car into drive and move forward to my gates there is second or two's delay and the box clunks heavily into gear?????

If i notice that momentary delay i take the car out of gear switch off and restart then select drive no problem nice and smooth.........i suspect there is an over pressurization or similar - any ideas?????

Pozzouk.

You are describing the classic symptoms of early model cars which are well known to have gearboxes with weak valve bodies. The wear in this complex item is causing the problem. Some have very successfully addressed this by having a later date reconditioned valve body fitted. Much cheaper than a reconditioned gearbox and a better alternative to fitting another worn gearbox.

[Pozzouk]

You are describing the classic symptoms of early model cars which are well known to have gearboxes with weak valve bodies.

Thanks for the advice Nick, I have to say i have not crawled under to check it out but somewhere along the line i had the impression that the unit was somehow sealed and not serviceable on the early AW55-50/51SN's - if it is of the serviceable type i guess that is good news.

Do you have any idea as to procedure and best option for sourcing parts? Maybe the guys in Swansea???

Cheers for any help on this one
Pozzouk.

[DSB Cheshire]

Great thread...for my S60 D5 (2002 auto) using the gibbons method , how much ATF do I need?

[DSB Cheshire]

Bump...any ideas gents...

Great thread...for my S60 D5 (2002 auto) using the gibbons method , how much ATF do I need?

[Youmitegetian]

Bump...any ideas gents...

I used 14 litres when I did mine. Have to say it didn't actually help much, was better to start with but soon got bad again

[DSB Cheshire]

Update: Checked the ATF oil today (dipstick)...firstly I didn't get burnt lol but was close..i did get mucky as it is in a difficult access position.

Checked it with the engine running, the oil on the dipstick was dark but not black, and it did not smell burnt...

[nickbw898]

my reading has been on VolvoXC.com here is a link http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?24283-2001-Valve-Body-Replacement&highlight=valve+body there is a lot more beside this! Best of luck. Nick

[jgjones095]

solenoids have made my issues better from the thread link to volvoxc.com above. not perfect though but need to adapt.

still i found a place in the states which supply early valve bodies for less that 400 shipped.

[KAMXC90]

Appreciate some help understanding faults codes I got for my XC90.

Diagnostics Transmission Codes
012A Neutral control Neutral control
012B Neutral control No Neutral control

Engine
5310 Communication Problems with the gearbox control module (TCM)

Thanks,

[nickbw898]

Appreciate some help understanding faults codes I got for my XC90.

Diagnostics Transmission Codes
012A Neutral control Neutral control
012B Neutral control No Neutral control

Engine
5310 Communication Problems with the gearbox control module (TCM)

Thanks,
If I understand your post correctly, (do I ?) you are asking "how do I make the adaptions?" This is a very good question, one that very many ignore. The answer is easy but (how like life!) actually doing the adaptions is a little more challenging.

Firstly, there is a Volvo missive about this. It is the wee small hours here in Rugby and I am not able to find the link on Volvoxc.com 2001-2007 xc70 - V70xc for you about adaptions. However, if you register (free) with that forum it has an excellent search engine. Without question, the one individual who is knowledgable and helpful about all things Volvo is JRL. Like me he is getting on, suffers from arthritis to the extent he cannot do his own wrenching and (in time honoured senior citizen fashion) is very terse and seemingly judgemental and rude. Trust me, he is not: just sick of the lazy masses who these days expect a tailor made answer to their problems - without bothering to read through or search the relevant posts. Back to adaption. You will need a laptop with fully charged battery (preferably a Mac running some form of virtualisation and Windows XP + Volvo Vida. You will also need a Chinese clone DiCE, plugged into the OBDII port (under the facia on the drivers side) and into the laptop USB port (make sure it is synched to Mac OS not Windows). You should also probably have your key in position II , not running but with a battery charger connected. Real Volvo DiCE has a wired connection to enable a permanent 12V supply, cloned do not, nor do they have a micro SD card or blutooth. Then using diagnostics tab of Vida on TCM (transmission control modul) first reset the fluid counter, then select adaptions mode, Then follow exactly the prescribed driving routine which, if diligently followed, will allow for a factory reset of the adaptions. Please note, this means you need a public place where you can drive the car initially on bare throttle settings; watch the Vida and the 'in dash' warning triangle which will indicate when a perfect "adaption" has been achieved. But doing this will likely mean you will need to be somewhere devoid of traffic (because your attention will not be on normal driving, but adapting the TCM like a Volvo technician). This procedure is vital, essential and recently documented by JRL on the other website. Look for it and you will have found the Volvo auto gearbox elixir:if yoiu are not hopelessly too late. Good luck!

[jura111]

Hello

Can someone tell me, how long does it take the ATF to warm up to 40, 60, 90,celsius for an parked car in gear selektor position P.
Dont have vida, want oil level to be proper, i have a diagram that shows me at what temperatuer the oil level on the dipstick needs to be.

Volvo s60 D5 2002 FVD.

[Dobilas]

Hello,
My car is Volvo S80 2.4 D5 automatic 2004 year. I've decided to to change AW 55-50SN beacause after 15 min, just driving around the town, sometimes it is even difficult to move forward when the car is stopped( there are bounces when going from 2nd gear to 3rd and so on) B4 valve change and oil change did not help. Until 2004 the gearbox numebr is 8636761 and from 2005 it's 30681186. But somehow my gearbox number is from the 2005 30681186.
When I am looking for a gearbox for my car everyone would send me a a reply with number:8636761, but they dont care that it doesn't match my gearbox number. Sellers don't care about it. I was trying to look for it without giving the year of my car, but I can't find anywhere near me .I can't find it on Ebay as well. Let's get to the point.. Is there a difference between these gearboxes, because judging by the year my car matches 01-04 year and both are for turbo engines. Or should I wait and look for a gearbox with a correct number that I need. I don't know for how long I can wait, because at any time the gearbox can break completely.

[VolvoWillem]

I seem to have the same problem.

I have a 2001 2.4 turbo.
The car shifts ok when de engine and box are cold.
After a couple of miles when it warms up, the car gets stuck in second or third.

I'm a mecanic myself and allready been reading.
Want to change the filter, alltough the tranny needs to be disassembled and I think the solenoids.
Would this help or do I need a valve body?

Have just bought the car, even need to pick it up, but this is what I know.

[nickbw898]

No disrespect to yourself or your abilities but you are quite simply being unrealistic if you are really saying you want to dismantle the transmission to remove/replace the filter/screen. I am confident in predicting that this is beyond your competence and will not make any difference!

The facts are that if you are already experiencing change/shift problems with your gearbox then the damage has already been done. Yes, a new valve body, solenoids may alleviate the problem but on the other hand it equally well might not. The facts is that the so-called filter is not that important, the box is so designed that if there is "crud" physical fall out from the brake bands etc., then it will come to rest on the inner surface of the gearbox sump, or the magnetic gearbox sump plug. The so-called filter is a fairly coarse screen. It is there to prevent recirculation of the 'crap' around the gearbox.

The quality of the current transmission fluid is what counts most/ Replacing the totality of that fluid and ensuring that the gearbox is set to adaptive mode and the adaptions set is the next most important step. Finally the fluid count needs to be reset/ All of this sounds trivial but in fact is vital: any failure to do the process thoroughly is in fact a ticket to the 'last chance saloon'. If you are not using Vida/Dice in real time to monitor the gearbox fluid temperature then you are a sham. You are wasting your time and will not succeed!
If the box shifts reasonably when it is "cold" but not when it warms up then this tends to confirm that your problems stem from a worn valve body and worn brake bands etc. This is expected behaviour from a malfunctioning gearbox, it also indicates that the fluid is shot. NO, sorry you didn't do your homework first. You have bought in hast and likely been shafted. That is what is happening right now on the Volvo scene. Not nice, not nice at all but it IS what is happening!

[oragex]

If you'd like to fix your transmissions, you can also ask on a US forum (such as http://matthewsvolvosite.com) where there are people that have fixed theirs (automatic transmissions are the norm in North America)

The transmission doesn't have a serviceable filter, as the filter is located deep inside the transmission and it's not accessible upon removing the transmission pan.

Most of the issues are due to the T4 servo cover for the early years, then to the three main solenoids in the valve body. Both the servo cover and the solenoids are serviceable by the home mechanic without removing the transmission. Parts available off Ebay.

But one thing to mention. If the car has been driven for a while since it started to behave, there could be more internal damage to the transmission. A solenoid/servo cover replacement may come too late.

[VolvoWillem]

@ nickbw898: nice and positive!

I will have a go at the box, I have nothing to loose, gearbox is shot anyways now.

So I don't have direct access to Vida or anything, so that can be a problem but I have to work with what I have and what I can find on the Internet.
That's the reason I posted here.

[gratts]

Hi, not sure what box I have, 2004 s80 D5 174,000 miles. Drives fine, hot or cold, kickdown fine etc, I know it's had valve body (or something like that) replaced. My question is: at certain speeds like 40 and 50mph it constantly changes 4-5-4-5-4-5 if I hold the speed or 3-4-3-4-3-4 etc, is that pretty normal? No clunking at any time.

5 speed auto, not geartronic

[Youmitegetian]

I tried fixing mine, I of the 3 solenoids was gummed up and sticking, I cleaned up all 3 but made little difference, think the damage had already been done by then, now I'm selling the car as parts, completely stripped it, only way I could get some money back

[VolvoWillem]

Can get hold on a gearbox for not too much money.

Problem, it's part number 9482025 and I have 9480902.

From what I find they both were behind a 2.4 turbo.

Will they be interchangable or will I go bust on it?

[Youmitegetian]

Can get hold on a gearbox for not too much money.

Problem, it's part number 9482025 and I have 9480902.

From what I find they both were behind a 2.4 turbo.

Will they be interchangable or will I go bust on it?


And will the box be much better than the one your taking out, a lot of these have the same issues, I did think about buying one to strip and rebuild before swapping them, I'd certainly be cleaning up the solenoids before refitting, much easier on the bench than in the car

[VolvoWillem]

And will the box be much better than the one your taking out, a lot of these have the same issues, I did think about buying one to strip and rebuild before swapping them, I'd certainly be cleaning up the solenoids before refitting, much easier on the bench than in the car

The guy claims it is a very good gearbox, I have to believe him and take the gamble, or I rebuild my own...