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paulheywood
Jun 7th, 2010, 17:28
Hi there,

XC90 has just failed MOT on parking brake efficiency and I'm after some advice really. It's always been a bit rubbish (seems very difficult to press and doesn't really hold) but because it's an auto I could 'Park' it and not worry.

It's a 2003 that I bought off a dealer 6 months ago, I'm pretty sure the Used Warranty doesn't cover it but I rang him anyway, he said he's 99% certain that the lack of use (it's always been like this) causes the friction material on the drum to decay and therefore it's not holding, but because it's 'my problem' if they strip it down (at 80 and hour) and it is that then it's my charge, if it's something else then I guess we'd debate it then.

So have I got any other options ? The MOT garage (non-volvo) said they'd look at it but until they know what it is it's hard to estimate...

I'd like to have an independent garage look over it but I don't think there's a local one around Coventry.

Anyone got any other advice ?

Comments appreciated.

paulheywood
Jun 7th, 2010, 17:48
According to a fair few posts it sounds like the drums rust and Clan suggests that people should budget "2 rear discs , a set of shoes and 4 shoe retaining springs".

Any idea what that cost is for parts and labour ? ie. How long would that take...

npw
Jun 7th, 2010, 18:27
I believe this is a known fault and is to do with the adjusting mechanism which fails on earlier cars and has now been modified. Because most cars are auto, and you select park after having engaged the parking brake, the transmission is locked and masks the symptoms. I would go and talk to a franchise dealer before spending any money. My 04 car failed at about the 3 year point and was fitted with the modified assembly. The quote in April o8 was 377 inc parts, labour and VAT, but was done for 210 on a good will basis from the local dealer, Volvo said it was wear and tear and did not want to know! And yes Clan it right, that price included 2 discs, a brake shoe kit and 4 retaining springs. The car only had 29,000 miles.

GJB
Jun 7th, 2010, 19:09
This is a warning to all auto users who don't use the handbrake just use it or lose it.

Rockhopper
Jun 8th, 2010, 09:00
Agree - I always tend to put it into N, handbrake on, then release foot brake to let handbrake shoes bite (esp if on a slope), then put in P. They need to be used or they'll just lose friction.

GW55JAN
Jun 8th, 2010, 17:01
Hi there,

XC90 has just failed MOT on parking brake efficiency and I'm after some advice really. It's always been a bit rubbish (seems very difficult to press and doesn't really hold) but because it's an auto I could 'Park' it and not worry.

It's a 2003 that I bought off a dealer 6 months ago, I'm pretty sure the Used Warranty doesn't cover it but I rang him anyway, he said he's 99% certain that the lack of use (it's always been like this) causes the friction material on the drum to decay and therefore it's not holding, but because it's 'my problem' if they strip it down (at 80 and hour) and it is that then it's my charge, if it's something else then I guess we'd debate it then.

So have I got any other options ? The MOT garage (non-volvo) said they'd look at it but until they know what it is it's hard to estimate...

I'd like to have an independent garage look over it but I don't think there's a local one around Coventry.

Anyone got any other advice ?

Comments appreciated.

cp motors polesworth 40 minutes from Cov

andy_d
Jun 8th, 2010, 18:48
GRN in smethwick , bham city center n out the other side for 10min

fuzzypicture
Jun 8th, 2010, 23:02
Points to check.

1 - make sure the updated adjuster has been fitted. Easy to check, pull of the tunnel trim on passenger side, you should be able to locate the cable and a cylinder about 4 inches long. If its a straight cable, it will need replacing with the modified part.

2- you say it is hard to press, with mine it was the front section of the handbrake cable, the inner sleeve had pulled through. Found this out after replacing both rear cables!

3 - as others have said, shoes, discs etc.

If your handy with a spanner, you can replace the whole parking brake system, shoes,discs,rear cables and front cable, its not that difficult.
Volvo recommend a special tool for adjusting the handbrake, you can make your own from a set of long pliers (b&q 7.99) which work just as well.

Joe

bobdabuilda
Jun 9th, 2010, 09:16
Points to check.

1 - make sure the updated adjuster has been fitted. Easy to check, pull of the tunnel trim on passenger side, you should be able to locate the cable and a cylinder about 4 inches long. If its a straight cable, it will need replacing with the modified part.

2- you say it is hard to press, with mine it was the front section of the handbrake cable, the inner sleeve had pulled through. Found this out after replacing both rear cables!

3 - as others have said, shoes, discs etc.

If your handy with a spanner, you can replace the whole parking brake system, shoes,discs,rear cables and front cable, its not that difficult.
Volvo recommend a special tool for adjusting the handbrake, you can make your own from a set of long pliers (b&q 7.99) which work just as well.

Joe

Any chance of a detailed write up of how to adjust the handbrake? How do you take the tunnel off for access? TIA

fuzzypicture
Jun 9th, 2010, 10:18
Hi Bob,
I'll try and take some pics tonight, and do a more detailed how-to.

Joe

fuzzypicture
Jun 9th, 2010, 20:02
Ok, first time how to, so be gentle....

First off, get hold of some long flat nose pliers, they need to be long handled for the extra leverage. Got these ones from B&Q for about 8 pound.
22688

grind a curve into the ends like so..
22689

You now have the special volvo xc90 adjustment tool!

Move passenger seat to rearmost position.
22690
stick fingers into the footwell air vent and pull.
22691
Remove trim gently.
22692
Fold back carpet and you should now be able to see the adjustment mechanism.
22693
Place car in gear / park and release parking brake. reapply one or two clicks.
insert your new volvo adjustment tool as so...
22694
22695
and pull apart. lots of force needed, but you will hear the mechanism click like a handbrake. Pre-applying the parking brake ensures that it is not on too tight. Drive for a couple of days, and re-adjust.
you can also adjust small steps by turning the barrel whilst holding the end near the circlip (circled) with a spanner.
22696

In order to fit new shoes, you need to remove the circlip and wind the barrel back in until it releases, there should be no tension on the cable, fit the shoes, wind the barrel out so the groove for the circlip is clear re-insert circlip and then adjust as above.

Mine now holds tight on some seriously steep hills.

Hope that helps.


Joe

bobdabuilda
Jun 10th, 2010, 09:19
Brilliant, thanks Joe

xcmarty
Jun 10th, 2010, 12:28
i recently replaced all discs and pads and park brake shoes on mine, rear parts cost about 120 at eurocarparts and to be honest it wasnt any dramas doing the job.

including the fronts i spent about 5 hrs on my drive doing it. not bad really considering how long you can take chewing on jacking cars up/down etc...

i then drove the car with cruise on (about 50mph), on a dual carriageway and kept pressing the parkbrake pedal with medium force whilst holding the release lever in my right hand.
this meant i could lightly bed them in and not be in danger of the brake staying on.

i pulled over, re-adjusted, drove home in the same manner and the brake has been much much better since. about 3 clicks is all you can get and it bites really well.
you'll need to get them bedded in a little to get full contact between shoe and drum or it will just feel like a poor park brake for ever, i was happy driving at 50mph and pumping the parkbrake on/off to get them worn in a little, seemed to work.
obviously in normal driving conditions these park brake shoes do nowt so they wont ever really bed in if you dont actually do it in this manner.

ps mine is a manual so i need the park brake. also i had no instructions i just used common sense and it was no dramas.

enjoy

paulheywood
Jun 11th, 2010, 11:05
Thanks for all the replies - especially the recommendation about CP in Polesworth, impressed with their service.

They actually replaced the brake shoes but the note does say "allow time to bed in" so my [hopefully final] concern is that it still won't be good enough to pass the MOT (Retest on Monday).

Do people generally concur with xcmarty's view of bedding them in ? Drive around 50 and pump the brake on and off ?

400-ascona
Feb 26th, 2011, 21:26
MOT due in a couple of weeks. Park brake hasn't worked since we bought it. Managed to sort it today however.
I fitted new shoes when I did the discs last year. The adjuster was pulled apart on the cable, and I couldn't get it to go together. I also had a feeling that the hooks had come unfastened under the cool box.
I removed the cool box/DVD (2 screws and it slides backwards and off). Underneath is all the DVD electronics, so I had to remove gear surround and lift the whole centre console. Eventually found the cables disconnected underneath. However needed to close the cable down to be able to reconnect.
So the key to solving is understanding the adjuster on the passenger side. The 'C' clip doesn't really do anything technical, except stopping you screwing the adjuster too far forward by physically baulking it. Removing this clip, and screwing the adjuster all the way forward allows you to close the adjuster mechanism up, and gives you the most play in the cable, allowing the hooks to be re-connected. I then wound the adjuster back far enough to allow the clip to be re-fitted. Adjusting using "BestGear Design" (thanks David!) pliers, I succesfully adjusted to 8 clicks, and then fine tuned with the screw adjuster. It now tightens on 5th click, and locks the park brake solid. Even dropped in drive with the handbrake on and it refuses to move.
The only issue I have is you didn't warn me about the pliers taking a chunk out of my finger when they slipped off David!
So in conclusion the XC90 park brake can be very effective if adjusted correctly and connected up properly.
Rob.

ex Triumph Man
Feb 27th, 2011, 09:16
When applying the parking brake on my D5 auto (11my) I always put it in Park first. Wait till you feel the transmission locking pawl engage; car feels as though it "rocks" in to position, then apply parking brake.
The effect of this is that the transmission is taking any strain then the parking brake acts as "belts-and-braces".

400-ascona
Feb 27th, 2011, 09:58
When applying the parking brake on my D5 auto (11my) I always put it in Park first. Wait till you feel the transmission locking pawl engage; car feels as though it "rocks" in to position, then apply parking brake.
The effect of this is that the transmission is taking any strain then the parking brake acts as "belts-and-braces".

I prefer to go the other way and let the park brake take the strain, and protect the gearbox. The theory being in my mind is that the park brake is easier to fix than the gearbox.
Rob.

pdrvolvo
Feb 27th, 2011, 10:16
Hi there,

XC90 has just failed MOT on parking brake efficiency and I'm after some advice really. It's always been a bit rubbish (seems very difficult to press and doesn't really hold) but because it's an auto I could 'Park' it and not worry.

It's a 2003 that I bought off a dealer 6 months ago, I'm pretty sure the Used Warranty doesn't cover it but I rang him anyway, he said he's 99% certain that the lack of use (it's always been like this) causes the friction material on the drum to decay and therefore it's not holding, but because it's 'my problem' if they strip it down (at 80 and hour) and it is that then it's my charge, if it's something else then I guess we'd debate it then.

So have I got any other options ? The MOT garage (non-volvo) said they'd look at it but until they know what it is it's hard to estimate...

I'd like to have an independent garage look over it but I don't think there's a local one around Coventry.

Anyone got any other advice ?

Comments appreciated.



On my t6 i replaced the rear hubs/bearings and while doing this found that the h/brake shoes had fallen too pieces.The disc/drum design has never been great IMO and the foot operated h/brake is not very good either but thats how it is.Anyway once i fitted new h/brake shoes which was no real problem and not expencive the h/brake was fine again.Prior too doing this work my AWD system dident work like many other xc90's but it now works fine so a bit of a bonus there i think.


peter.

bobdabuilda
Feb 27th, 2011, 11:19
I prefer to go the other way and let the park brake take the strain, and protect the gearbox. The theory being in my mind is that the park brake is easier to fix than the gearbox.
Rob.

I also do this.

Rockhopper
Feb 27th, 2011, 17:22
Second that too - strain taken by brake shoes not transmission.

ex Triumph Man
Feb 27th, 2011, 17:46
All very well, but what happens if you apply the parking brake leaving the car in N for example and the parking brake loses grip, away goes your car.

Think I will just put transmission in Park first. Appreciate the your responses though.

400-ascona
Feb 27th, 2011, 19:32
All very well, but what happens if you apply the parking brake leaving the car in N for example and the parking brake loses grip, away goes your car.

Think I will just put transmission in Park first. Appreciate the your responses though.

I didn't think you could take the key out without putting it in park?

RoyMacDonald
Feb 28th, 2011, 11:27
I didn't think you could take the key out without putting it in park?

That's right. You can't. That's gearbox park by the way.

StuT4
Feb 28th, 2011, 13:02
i've just changed my rear discs/pads/shoes/springs, but couldn't get the handbrake to bite successfully. even on 9 clicks it wouldn't hold the car, and i couldn't adjust it myself on the adjustment bar.

just got the local dealer to adjust, and then put through MOT (just 28 for the adjustment), and at least they have an incentive to do it enough to get it through the MOT. just meant i paid a little more for the MOT than some of the special offers around, but i've always found when i pay full price it tends to pass, rather than fail on a bulb or 2, that the garage that charges 10 for a 50p bulb on a special price MOT.

400-ascona
Feb 28th, 2011, 17:54
i've just changed my rear discs/pads/shoes/springs, but couldn't get the handbrake to bite successfully. even on 9 clicks it wouldn't hold the car, and i couldn't adjust it myself on the adjustment bar.

just got the local dealer to adjust, and then put through MOT (just 28 for the adjustment), and at least they have an incentive to do it enough to get it through the MOT. just meant i paid a little more for the MOT than some of the special offers around, but i've always found when i pay full price it tends to pass, rather than fail on a bulb or 2, that the garage that charges 10 for a 50p bulb on a special price MOT.

Agree that its all in the adjustment. I also think you get what you pay for on MOT's. Cheap MOT = Guaranteed to find problems and charge for them.

StuT4
Feb 28th, 2011, 18:06
Agree that its all in the adjustment. I also think you get what you pay for on MOT's. Cheap MOT = Guaranteed to find problems and charge for them.

indeed, i've just checked all my paperwork, and on my 2 cars (xc90 & s60) the last 2 places that charged around 35-40 failed my S60 on: Sat Nav + Radar Detector obstructing field of vision (all it took was unsticking the suction cup), tracking??, and 2 x 50p sidelight bulbs which they then screwed me for 10 for fitting and although i checked all bulbs before MOT, i couldn't prove the ones they took out were working......

but the last 4 i've had done where i have paid the full price have all gone though.

false economy really trying to get a bargain at (some of) these place as i expect they hope to make up the discounted MOT on the cost of repair.

dvdjohnston
Mar 1st, 2011, 20:18
My 2006 XC90 D5 (185) Auto has just failed MOT due to rear offside parking brake performance efficiency (has only done 48k miles since new). Took to local Volvo dealer who has quoted 380 over and above the 300 scheduled service that the car was undergoing at the same time. Same dealer serviced my car 12 months ago. Surprised to learn that my 'parking brake' can deteriorate to such an extent in 12 months (12k miles)! Have to say - not best impressed, as the dealer (bear in mind this is a Volvo Dealer) also mentioned in passing that my AWD system also appears to be faulty (but was not in a position to give my a more detailed diagnosis of the fault).

Seriously considering writing directly to Volvo UK to express my dissatisfaction - spend lots of money on an expensive AWD car to be told in passing that it is now a 2WD car!!!

StuT4
Mar 1st, 2011, 20:45
Took to local Volvo dealer who has quoted 380 over and above the 300 scheduled service that the car was undergoing at the same time.

sounds about the same as i was quoted to replace rear discs/pads/shoes/springs from local dealer, which is why i did it myself (160 for parts from Rufe) and then spent 28 getting them to adjust the handbrake as i couldn't get it right.

they're great cars, but can be expensive when they break..

tpolo
Aug 6th, 2011, 18:06
Thanks for the very informative post with pics.

My right side wheel seemed to be a bit more tight than left, need to follow up on it I guess.

One hint though: applying locking pliers to the pedal side, just to support the "Volvo special" pliers, i.e. would not slip so easily.

Dooner
Sep 12th, 2011, 17:26
Excellent, although couldn't find the correct pliers in B&Q so just used some ajustable pipe pilers.
Thx.

nickdav80
Oct 22nd, 2011, 18:37
I didn't have the right pliers for the adjuster so used a pair of open end spanners (9mm and 10mm I think) and put a thick allen bolt between them to make a non slip alternative.

Nick

listerdude
Jan 10th, 2012, 10:05
Interesting reading this as my 03 has just failed on the parking brake efficiency. It does feel stiff and it will roll while applied so fair enough but I didn't think it could cost so much to sort out. I have no chanch of taking it to a dealer before my retest. So I'll have to go to a local butcher.

RoyMacDonald
Jan 10th, 2012, 12:44
Interesting reading this as my 03 has just failed on the parking brake efficiency. It does feel stiff and it will roll while applied so fair enough but I didn't think it could cost so much to sort out. I have no chanch of taking it to a dealer before my retest. So I'll have to go to a local butcher.

I had my 2003 XC90 handbrake serviced this year at Charlwood Volvo and it was 96.60 + vat labour and 31.80+vat for the shoes kit. Peter did say the early xC90's were not always easy to do.

listerdude
Jan 10th, 2012, 18:25
I had my 2003 XC90 handbrake serviced this year at Charlwood Volvo and it was 96.60 + vat labour and 31.80+vat for the shoes kit. Peter did say the early xC90's were not always easy to do.

Interesting, Might be worth ringing Volvo Swansea to see what they can offer me.

bobdabuilda
Jan 10th, 2012, 19:29
Interesting, Might be worth ringing Volvo Swansea to see what they can offer me.

A bit further I know but Bridgend Volvo Specialists would be much better and cheaper....

StuT4
Jan 10th, 2012, 20:09
just to add my 2p worth. i changed my shoes last year and couldn't adjust the handbrake on my 2006 model. i knew they needed doing as the handbrake was pants. i'd previously booked it into the local halfords autocentre for a cheapie mot. suddenly decided that they wouldn't work out how the adjust the hand, it would then fail and i'd be 30 out of pocket, so cancelled it.

so i booked it into the local dealers, told them to adjust the handbrake then do the mot. job done - they only charged about 25-30 for the handbrake adjustment, and i knew they would have to do it so it passed.

listerdude
Jan 17th, 2012, 21:38
Seems as I have a 2003 model the parking brake is auto-adjusting (read non-adjusting) I got a local guy to fit new shoes for me but can't feel much of a difference. New shoes cost me 75 fitted. He did have a look to see if he could do some adjustment but says he couldn't and the drums might be to bad. So that could be the reason it's not hoding very well. I'm going to spend a couple of days trying to get them to wear in properly and retest. I'm hoping they will adjust themselves.

stewarty18
Jan 18th, 2012, 22:42
Hi had the same problem, its not just common to automatics my wife has a 06 manual and the handbrake is used every day, it has had new pads fitted about 6 months before test and still failed, the handbrake is just pure rubbish.

RoyMacDonald
Jan 19th, 2012, 14:51
Seems as I have a 2003 model the parking brake is auto-adjusting (read non-adjusting) I got a local guy to fit new shoes for me but can't feel much of a difference. New shoes cost me 75 fitted. He did have a look to see if he could do some adjustment but says he couldn't and the drums might be to bad. So that could be the reason it's not hoding very well. I'm going to spend a couple of days trying to get them to wear in properly and retest. I'm hoping they will adjust themselves.

The auto adjusting ones can still be adjusted. I think they can also be converted to the later adjustment type. There is no reason the handbrake can't be made to work properly. (Good enough for the MOT)

listerdude
Jan 19th, 2012, 19:05
The auto adjusting ones can still be adjusted. I think they can also be converted to the later adjustment type. There is no reason the handbrake can't be made to work properly. (Good enough for the MOT)

Please enlighten me Roy...I'm in a bit of a panicky state ATM as tomorrow is the last day for my MOT so I have to re-test it. I did read somewhere about adding washers but I'm not sure where they should go.

RoyMacDonald
Jan 20th, 2012, 12:14
Points to check.

1 - make sure the updated adjuster has been fitted. Easy to check, pull of the tunnel trim on passenger side, you should be able to locate the cable and a cylinder about 4 inches long. If its a straight cable, it will need replacing with the modified part.

2- you say it is hard to press, with mine it was the front section of the handbrake cable, the inner sleeve had pulled through. Found this out after replacing both rear cables!

3 - as others have said, shoes, discs etc.

If your handy with a spanner, you can replace the whole parking brake system, shoes,discs,rear cables and front cable, its not that difficult.
Volvo recommend a special tool for adjusting the handbrake, you can make your own from a set of long pliers (b&q 7.99) which work just as well.

Joe

listerdude......There is a pictorial a few posts back on adjusting with the updated adjuster.

listerdude
Jan 21st, 2012, 18:11
Thanks everyone.
It passed the MOT yesterday but only just. I think the pass rate for effiency on the parking brake is ony 16% last time it failed at 14% but Friday it passed at 18%! and thats after changing the shoes and running them in for a few days..the parking brake realy is bad on these.
Thanks for the tips I'll look into changing the cables etc. over the next year to improve things next year.

Analoskor
Jan 22nd, 2012, 00:31
Hi guys, i am new to to Volvo xc90, got a car a couple of months ago from a non dealer garage and straight away i found that the foot brake is not really holding as you can drive away with it on. I did an MOT history check and it showed up that the level of handbreake was **dengerous** and obviously needed sorted in order to pass an mot, however, how do i know that the job was done well? The rear break pads are very worn and need replaced together with discs and i am wondering whether we should change shoes at the same time in order to try & fix this handbreake issue or shall we just leave it in the meentime? Roxy

chb
Jan 22nd, 2012, 14:01
My reckoning is that you should change the handbrake shoes every second set of pads. Delamination is what kills them, not wear. I reckon the discs will see two sets of pads too.

RoyMacDonald
Jan 23rd, 2012, 15:57
Hi guys, i am new to to Volvo xc90, got a car a couple of months ago from a non dealer garage and straight away i found that the foot brake is not really holding as you can drive away with it on. I did an MOT history check and it showed up that the level of handbreake was **dengerous** and obviously needed sorted in order to pass an mot, however, how do i know that the job was done well? The rear break pads are very worn and need replaced together with discs and i am wondering whether we should change shoes at the same time in order to try & fix this handbreake issue or shall we just leave it in the meentime? Roxy

As far as I know it's always been possible to drive away with the handbrake on. An alarm should come on when you get to about 20mph so Volvo must have known it was possible from the initial design.

chb
Jan 23rd, 2012, 18:30
No alarm comes on with my car when speed it above 20mph. I know this as I very occaisionally apply the handbrake when coming to a junction (only on one local road and with no traffic behind). I do this to stop the inside of the drum from rusting up.
Never tried going from 0 to >20mph, so it could be that he alarm only works if setting off with handbrake on.

listerdude
Jan 23rd, 2012, 19:45
The alarm will come on with mine..not sure if it's come up at 20mph but it does sound when I leave the parking brake on for a little while when driving.

RoyMacDonald
Jan 24th, 2012, 11:16
The alarm will come on with mine..not sure if it's come up at 20mph but it does sound when I leave the parking brake on for a little while when driving.

Same here with my 03 XC. I guessed the speed as I was looking for what was causing the alarm not the speedo, so it may not be exactly 20 mph. but faster than 10 mph I would say. It doesn't come on straight away. I was able to turn out of the drive and go a way down the road before it started to sound.

asahartz
Feb 24th, 2012, 20:03
It's always been possible to drive off with the parking brake on mine - the MOT last year was a bit iffy I suspect as it was done by the used car dealer I bought the car from; and since they replaced an illegal tyre with a part-worn...

Anyway I replaced my discs this week; handbrake shoes were in good condition though some idiot had replaced the pads on just one side! Why for god's sake?

I adjusted the parking brake a bit quickly without the special tool, and of course it failed the MOT. I'll make a suitable tool and do it properly over the weekend.

It really is a rubbish design - I used to have one on a Merc and that was almost as bad. Glad it's an auto 'cos I've no idea how you'd do a hill start in a manual with one!

asahartz
Feb 26th, 2012, 20:14
I made my own version of an adjustment tool. I notched 8mm slots into a couple of pieces of galvanised brick tie that I had in my garage, then welded them to an old pair of crimping pliers. By using them cross-handed it was no problem to push the adjustment right out. The notches make it impossible to slip off. They're now in my "special tools" drawer!

http://www.b0lus.com/images/cars/IMAG0697a.jpg

http://www.b0lus.com/images/cars/IMAG0698.jpg

Just to make sure it's good to pass the MOT I removed the centre console and inserted a couple of small strips of car body steel into the loops of the rear cables where they hook on the compensator to the front cable. That's given me an extra mm of pull on the cable. The parking brake now is so good that it's difficult to drive off with it on!

Propofol
Mar 5th, 2012, 11:13
Well, I adjusted mine using the adjuster mechanism today (2004 model) as it had a lot of screw thread visible.

After a couple of turns it now only has 5 clicks (maximum) to the footbrake before being really hard to push further.

It moves about 5cm backwards and forwards when selecting drive and reverse - does this sound good enough to pass the MOT inspection?

RoyMacDonald
Mar 5th, 2012, 20:21
Well, I adjusted mine using the adjuster mechanism today (2004 model) as it had a lot of screw thread visible.

After a couple of turns it now only has 5 clicks (maximum) to the footbrake before being really hard to push further.

It moves about 5cm backwards and forwards when selecting drive and reverse - does this sound good enough to pass the MOT inspection?

Mine has always been 2 clicks.

Propofol
Mar 5th, 2012, 21:59
And it holds on two clicks? If yes then perhaps I need to fiddle a bit more :(

newbie1
Mar 6th, 2012, 08:07
i have an xc90 2003 handbrake adjusted to max with plyers and new shoes fitted,but it still will not hold car on a small incline,mot due soon and cannot understand how poor the hanbrake is on these cars,getting 4 clicks on foot pedal and it feels tight but will not hold car,anyone got any ideas,would pull my hair out if i had any

RoyMacDonald
Mar 6th, 2012, 13:47
And it holds on two clicks? If yes then perhaps I need to fiddle a bit more :(

Yes. It was getting poor according to the MOT test station so I had new shoes fitted this year, (it was due them anyway due to age and the delamination issue) and it still was only 2 clicks after they fitted them but the MOT tester said the handbrake was great now.

Ron_XC90
Mar 6th, 2012, 14:16
i have an xc90 2003 handbrake adjusted to max with plyers and new shoes fitted,but it still will not hold car on a small incline,mot due soon and cannot understand how poor the hanbrake is on these cars,getting 4 clicks on foot pedal and it feels tight but will not hold car,anyone got any ideas,would pull my hair out if i had any

If the shoes are new, they are probably not bedded in at all? on an empty stretch of road you could apply the parking brake slightly while driving and do a few tests to come to a stop on parking brake only. This will bed them in and should work better afterwards

newbie1
Mar 12th, 2012, 17:49
new rear discs fitted today 25% off at euro part at the moment,bedding shoes in,and handbrake now holds on a hill over the moon, just hope it passes mot in next couple of weeks.

charles786
Mar 12th, 2012, 22:12
is it normal for the car to move little bit after engaging the hand break
tx

Ron_XC90
Mar 12th, 2012, 23:13
is it normal for the car to move little bit after engaging the hand break
tx
Yes is normal, think it is part of the 'design'

RoyMacDonald
Mar 13th, 2012, 12:33
is it normal for the car to move little bit after engaging the hand break
tx

Every Volvo I've owned over the last 30 odd years has done this. It's built into the shoes. I think it's so you can rock the car and unstick them if they freeze to the drums.

fuzzypicture
Mar 13th, 2012, 21:05
After failing both previous MOTs on the handbrake I replace the shoes before each MOT now, I think of it as cheap MOT insurance!

Joe

In Reverse
Jan 28th, 2013, 21:26
Failed MOT at weekend on the handbrake. Only 9% efficiency - should be 16%.

Its passed the last few years without any work for MOT (car is regularly maintained) and handbrake wasnt great but enough to pass. About 6 months ago the rear pads and discs needed changing, so i replaced them myself and fitted new handbrake shoes at same time.

The handbrake was never great with the new shoes and clearly wasnt, hence the recent MOT fail.

I had another go at adjusting it tonight and have got a much better brake, holding it on a hill in neutral. I am a bit concerned however as the adjuster, which I adjusted using 2 spanners and a socket as a fulcrum, seems to show quite a bit of the ratchet on one side, compared to the pictures on page 2 of this thread. It looks like I might have over adjusted???

Any ideas if its possible to over stretch the adjustment ratchet or what roughly the correct distance should be?

kentishdriver
Oct 6th, 2013, 14:54
If it is any help my 4yr old XC90 failed MOT on parking brake efficiency. 0%. Indy did not have special tool so was not fixed at time of failure. So to avoid having to go to Vovo dealer, and back to Indy have tried to sort it myself.

MachineMart (Clarkes) do a circlip pliers set (14). Internal and External with replacement screw fasten on tips. Seem to have done the job using the supplied tips, although would be easy to make ones up and fasten on, and with Mole grips on the pedal side to push against. Still have quite a few clicks on the pedal, but holds in Drive even with a few extra revs. Loathe to adjust any more, because up to about 7/8 visible threads on ratchet adjuster, and also I don't want to risk any binding on the back.

dino25uk
Jan 6th, 2015, 11:33
Have to thank all the knowledgeable guys on the forum for their contributions. Handbrake was useless on my XC90, even with the adjusters fitted on the brake shoes. After some head scratching and then reading through all the information, I took the handbrake to task last night. Used an 11mm and 9mm open ended spanner, a bolt as a fulcrum and a set of vice grips to squeeze the ends of the spanners together. After about 20 mins of fiddling, I now have a handbrake after 4 clicks of the foot pedal :).

RoyMacDonald
Jan 6th, 2015, 12:40
Have to thank all the knowledgeable guys on the forum for their contributions. Handbrake was useless on my XC90, even with the adjusters fitted on the brake shoes. After some head scratching and then reading through all the information, I took the handbrake to task last night. Used an 11mm and 9mm open ended spanner, a bolt as a fulcrum and a set of vice grips to squeeze the ends of the spanners together. After about 20 mins of fiddling, I now have a handbrake after 4 clicks of the foot pedal :).

Should be 2, 3 clicks max.

dino25uk
Jan 8th, 2015, 13:29
Thanks Roy, actually went through the whole procedure again last night, just before the Volvo was up for MOT. Handbrake now at 3 clicks. Guy in MOT centre told me that the measurements he got on the equipemtn when testing the parking brake were as good as Volvo gets :). I am really pleased as the car went through MOT and I've been living with this issue for nearly a year now.