Bulb Failure Message

[tonyharris]

I don't expect to hear from anyone since I appear to be the only S60T5 owner out there but what the hell....

I've had a bulb failure message displayed on my driver info panel for some weeks now even though none of my bulbs have blown. I had this message a few months ago and it went away one day for no apparent reason. Now its back.

If anyone does drive an S60, subscribes to this forum and has had a similar message (1 in 65,000,000 probability) please shout

[Peter Milnes]

You could contact the VOC register keeper for the S60 series. Try phoning him on (number deleted by Forum Admin), his name is Graeme Catnach and his is a 2.0T. However the S80 register keeper has noticed this happening on his car and thinks it might be due to the bulbs ageing, or a loose connection in the socket for the bulb failure detection unit.

All the best, Peter.

[George Holmer]

Yes, although I do not drive a S60, this has happened to me on both my 740, my 440 and my late 460 and previously on my now sold Mondeo and Saab 9000. The reason is precisely what Peter states. The failure system is very sensitive.

George

'87 745 GLE Turbo Diesel Intercooler
'88 745 Turbo Intercooler

[alex jennings]

My S 60 does the same. The only true bulb failures I have had are the dipped beam ones. This is ocassionaly.

The rears seem to be the problem and I find hitting the unit with the flat of my hand seems to 'fix' it. There is obviously some sort of fault in the connection, its too sensitive or the bulbs dont seat in their holders properly.

However, it works every time.

[TJMurphy]

I've got an S60T5!

Been there done that, still have the bulb!

Had this a few months ago but couldn't spot a dud bulb and it went away after a few miles.
Then, last week, got it again and had a better look around the lights. There are two bulbs in the rear light cluster on each side and one of them was out - I suspect I only had a quick look the first time and didn't notice. But when I took the rear cluster out the bulb came on again - I think it was a slightly loose connection in the back of the light cluster.

[Paul Wildsmith]

My lamp came on after a bang or two for a couple of months, then failed completely. Was all 'silver', so even if lit wouldn't show!

Worth a couple of pounds to replace all tail lights once a year.

I used to have endless problems like this on my 240 years ago - though not helped by faulty alternator (overvolts).

[Redhd43]

I have had the exact same problem repeat itself. Usually I simply pull out the wiring harness and check the bulbs just to see if the warning light is actually correct (it hasn't been as yet) and then re-seat all of the bulbs. Seems to work for a while. Cold weather seems to create this problem more often than not for me.

My S60 T5 stick is still agreat car.

[dgungadoo]

I have a Volvo XC-90, 2004, Manual, 2.4 AWD, 75k Miles.
I'm getting the error message every so often (specially when it's below freezing):

[Bulb Failure Dipped Beam]

...and the right (when facing the car's front end from the outside) dipped light doesn't turn on.
After playing with the on/off switch a couple of times, it sometimes comes on... (so I've deducted that the bulb is obviously not defective)

I'm presuming it's a relay/resistor/shunt that is getting weak, and needs either replacing or re-seating or cleaning.

Anyone knows where I could locate that Relay/Shunt/Resistor on a Right-hand drive XC-90 ?

I don't presume it's the same for the Left and Right dipped beam, is it ?

[John_C]

You may have better luck posting this question in the XC90 section as other XC90 owners are more likely be be looking there.

[TJMurphy]

If it's like the parking lights in my S60 then it's the connection rather than the bulb that causes it. Hence slapping it works for a while, or, slightly more efficiently, taking the bulb out, cleaning it a bit and reseating it seems to work for longer.

[Clan]

I have a Volvo XC-90, 2004, Manual, 2.4 AWD, 75k Miles.
I'm getting the error message every so often (specially when it's below freezing):

[Bulb Failure Dipped Beam]

...and the right (when facing the car's front end from the outside) dipped light doesn't turn on.
After playing with the on/off switch a couple of times, it sometimes comes on... (so I've deducted that the bulb is obviously not defective)

I'm presuming it's a relay/resistor/shunt that is getting weak, and needs either replacing or re-seating or cleaning.

Anyone knows where I could locate that Relay/Shunt/Resistor on a Right-hand drive XC-90 ?

I don't presume it's the same for the Left and Right dipped beam, is it ?

This could be the CEM itself as the headlamps are fed direct from the CEM . there is a connector you could check under the headlamp , the one you would release to remove the headlamp ... If someone has had 100w bulbs in there at some point it would have overheated the parts in the CEM ...

[grainqey]

dont think it's relevant but i had a bulb go and it doesnt look like the bulb (when it took it out) had actually gone, anyway got another for 3 quid from halfords (only on trade card)

[dgungadoo]

This could be the CEM itself as the headlamps are fed direct from the CEM . there is a connector you could check under the headlamp , the one you would release to remove the headlamp ... If someone has had 100w bulbs in there at some point it would have overheated the parts in the CEM ...

Attached is a schematic of Daytime running lights from the Volvo Vadis Wiring Diagram (year 2004, TP 3971202) for V70/CX70/V70R/XC90.

AS I understand this diagram, the CEM (Central Electronic Module) has 1 single relay (CMI6 @ 2/152), then it splits to 2 separate fuses 11C/30 and 11C/31. Then through connectors 54/3RB (port 9 & 10)

If the CEM is able to turn on the left dip/daylight running light, but not the right one, through 1 single relay, I deduct that it's not the relay's fault, and something further down the line.

Any idea ?

[Clan]

yes indeed from your diagram it must be a connector or fuseholder, i was looking at a 2005 diagram where the CEM uses transistors to switch the lights rather than a relay .
some circuit tracing with a test light is called for when the fault is apparant ...

[boggymarsh]

It seems that this bulb failure is a feature across the range and not so isolated as the thread maker thought!

I have had this problem ever since we bought the car. I have been told that it is the bulb that blows and then welds itself back again!

The last time this happened was during the MOT test just before Christmas... bloody typical as all the lights were working on the way there! Anyway the tester failed the car... and yet saw for himself when I picked the car up the problem had resolved itself... the bulb had not been changed and yet was working perfectly well! Still didn't get a pass though until a partial retest! Daft but true!

[grainqey]

It seems that this bulb failure is a feature across the range and not so isolated as the thread maker thought!

I have had this problem ever since we bought the car. I have been told that it is the bulb that blows and then welds itself back again!

The last time this happened was during the MOT test just before Christmas... bloody typical as all the lights were working on the way there! Anyway the tester failed the car... and yet saw for himself when I picked the car up the problem had resolved itself... the bulb had not been changed and yet was working perfectly well! Still didn't get a pass though until a partial retest! Daft but true!

lol it'll be the resistance i think that sets off the bulb blown message (so if there's too much resistance then it comes up, so a broken circuit would trigger it or a very restricting-narrow piece of bulb element would trigger it)

i cant believe he still failed it even though he'd seen it come on when you picked it up lol!

[Seeker_UK]

lol it'll be the resistance i think that sets off the bulb blown message (so if there's too much resistance then it comes up, so a broken circuit would trigger it or a very restricting-narrow piece of bulb element would trigger it)

Having a bulb which doesn't quite meet the Volvo spec can also do this - even if the bulb hasn't blown the resistance is too high and sets off the warning.

[2003bhoy]

I've had the same problem on my S60 a couple of times. First time seemed to be connection problems which was remedied by removing all the bulbs and giving the connectors a rub with wet & dry then spraying with WD40.
The second time was a blown bulb, which wasn't apparent because there are 2 in the same cluster, when I replaced this it resulted in one ore two of the others going over the next week. I don't know if there was moisture in the system or not but it's been fin for a whie now.

[steadvex]

If it's like the parking lights in my S60 then it's the connection rather than the bulb that causes it. Hence slapping it works for a while, or, slightly more efficiently, taking the bulb out, cleaning it a bit and reseating it seems to work for longer.

my rear parking light bulb has a warning flashing on n off quite rapidily, usually on the motorway

ok so bulb had failed this time, but before it failed (About a month) it would seemingly come on sometimes and othertimes not, assumed was some dogdgy connection, popped into volvo yesterday after work, and they just swapped out the bulb wth a new one for free.

i was wondering if bulbs nearing the end of their life cause the system to react, i found before it died completly a gentle knock on the lamp caused it to come back on!

[Talon]

I got this info from another site. All credit to original poster

http://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=51613#51613

P2 V70 & S60 headlight fix

Symptoms: Headlights not on, system display reads "BULB FAILURE DIPPED BEAM"
Problem: Shunt is overheating, carbon has deposited on shunt connection. Need to replace shunt, clean carbon off CEM connector. You will need: patience, no-residue electrical connection cleaner, T25 torx bit, flashlight, 400 grit sandpaper, volvo part# 9442190 costs $9 (same part# for S60) Entire procedure is same as S60.

First, disconnect the negative lead from the battery. Then use the t25 torx to remove 2 screws that lie near the footwell/pedal light. You'll need to pull this panel down(with strong force) on the left side, then the right. Then, to disconnect it from the center consol, this "sound barrier" must be pushed up and toward the front of the car. You'll get it, just be careful.

Now with the plastic out of the way, you'll need to locate the CEM. Its directly in front of the obd port. To remove the CEM from it's clips, you'll need a screwdriver(I pried the clips with my bare hands). You will be upside-down and backwards, so you are looking towards the sky in the footwell. The clip that holds the CEM in place is behind it on the port side, the side closest to the door. It must be pulled directly away from the CEM. At the same time, pull the cem not down but back towards the obd port. It will take a few tries, as it will try to clip back into place. You can now maneuver the CEM down into a more workable location. http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg50/metachicken/cem%20shunt%20job/PICT2320.jpg
http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg50/metachicken/cem%20shunt%20job/PICT2318.jpg
You will see the burnt part of the cem even with the shunt still in. It is obvious, yellowy/black burned plastic. Pull the shunt out like you would a fuse.
Take a break...
Before going back to work on the car, take 400 grit(or something close to 400) and cut about a 8cm by 1cm rectangle. You need it to slip into the connector(just the burned one where the old shunt sat. Sand the inside of that connection real good. Your sandpaper will become dicolored, proving that you are cleaning. Sand it until you feel it's clean enough. I gave it a good 20-30 strokes. Clean with electrical cleaner. Let cleaner dry(30min to be sure). You are ready to replace the shunt(with the new one), replace the CEM, and put everything back together.

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg50/metachicken/cem%20shunt%20job/PICT2310.jpg

http://i245.photobucket.com/albums/gg50/metachicken/cem%20shunt%20job/PICT2337.jpg

[Leeds Lad]

There is always a set of lamps that most people miss and it's the number plate lights, these are the favourites to corrode. Not sure if this is the problem but when I did the electrics on Jags with bulb fail on and no obvious bulb out, this is where we got used to head straight to.

[Clan]

There is always a set of lamps that most people miss and it's the number plate lights, these are the favourites to corrode. Not sure if this is the problem but when I did the electrics on Jags with bulb fail on and no obvious bulb out, this is where we got used to head straight to.

The only lights monitored are the tail lamps , stop lamps and Dipped headlamps , Possibly indicators too but they never go .

[Leeds Lad]

Wasn't sure as to what were monitored and weren't, just from memory on the Jags there were hot checks, namely indicators as these could only be monitored during use and cold checks which checked all other bulbs, whether in use or not. Always remembered flustered owners coming in and explaining they had been around the cars many times to check all the bulbs due to bulb fail showing, only for us to put in a number plate lamp and be done in minutes.

[jackass]

The only lights monitored are the tail lamps , stop lamps and Dipped headlamps , Possibly indicators too but they never go .

I had a [Parking Light Failure] warning the other day, I had a front sidelight out so I swapped that, should I have been checking the taillights?

I read somewhere that there is provision for all bulb circuits to be monitored but in most markets it's only a select few that are fitted.

[PaulR]

I had a [Parking Light Failure] warning the other day, I had a front sidelight out so I swapped that, should I have been checking the taillights?

I read somewhere that there is provision for all bulb circuits to be monitored but in most markets it's only a select few that are fitted.

I had the same message on mine last week , it was a front parking lamp & one of the the " hidden & forgotten about " 2nd parking bulbs in the rear taillights.

[John_C]

I had the parking light failure too, it was one of the four red lights in the rear cluster. So it can either be the sidelights at the front of the car, one of the red side lights in the tail clusters at the side of the car, or one of the running lights in the rear clusters?!

It may as well just say "bulb failure" if it's not going to localise the fault a bit more than that ;)

[jordant]

This has been a very helpful thread. I have a 1998 V70 with the same symptom: no dipped beam and failure indicator glowing in the dash. The relay provides system voltage to the nearby fuse box, but that system voltage is not at the headlights. I now suspect this shunt resistor as I have confirmed the fuses are intact. I do have high beams.

Where is this panel containing the shunt located in the 98 V70? The post about the P2 is specific to that model. Is mine in the same location?

[jordant]

. . . Where is this panel containing the shunt located in the 98 V70? The post about the P2 is specific to that model. Is mine in the same location?

I found the problem and have my dipped beams back. There is a conductor leading directly from the battery to the headlight assemblies. It has an in-line 25 Amp fuse. Rather, it had an in-line 25 Amp fuse. 10 years of current through that assembly left it roasty-toasty.

I replaced that 30 cm conductor, fuse assembly and fuse and now my dipped beams are back.

I still have a glowing "bulb failure" dashboard indicator. I'll replace both dipped beam bulbs and see if that helps. The tail lights are operative; I don't think that I have a failed brake light.

Onward.

[gbXC]

I too get the Bulb failure dipped beam and one of the lights goes out on my XC70 from 2005. If I switch off and on again both work fine. I notice it most after about quarter of an hour of fast driving.

I've been complaining for a long time to my dealer in Bedford but they cannot find anything wrong.

[Clan]

I found the problem and have my dipped beams back. There is a conductor leading directly from the battery to the headlight assemblies. It has an in-line 25 Amp fuse. Rather, it had an in-line 25 Amp fuse. 10 years of current through that assembly left it roasty-toasty.

I replaced that 30 cm conductor, fuse assembly and fuse and now my dipped beams are back.

I still have a glowing "bulb failure" dashboard indicator. I'll replace both dipped beam bulbs and see if that helps. The tail lights are operative; I don't think that I have a failed brake light.

Onward.

That wiring and fuse is non standard , someone has done some poor modification ...

[Clan]

I too get the Bulb failure dipped beam and one of the lights goes out on my XC70 from 2005. If I switch off and on again both work fine. I notice it most after about quarter of an hour of fast driving.

I've been complaining for a long time to my dealer in Bedford but they cannot find anything wrong.

I assume the obvious has been done , a new bulb? If so then look to the CEM , water has been known to enter it on 2005 models and cause strange happenings ..

[stonkamike]

My 2002 V70 intermittently shows the brake bulb warning in the instrument panel - the high-level brake light is absolutely fine, but the lights in the side clusters are a law unto themselves. They work perfectly well one moment, then both will refuse to light, then they come back again!

I have replaced the fuse denoted as 'brakes' in the engine compartment and the brake lights fuse in the load area - and have replaced both brake light bulbs with no success.

Would liberally WD40ing the connections in the load area be of any use? They all look clean enough, but...

Failing that, any other suggestions? Bearing in mind, of course, that the first tool I reach for when changing a plug would probably be a hammer......

[Clan]

I would change the stop light relay in the Rear Electronic Module ( The fuse box ) in the left rear side compartment in the boot ..

[stonkamike]

Continuing the problem with my 51 plate V70: The "Check brake light" warning appearing most (but not all) of the times I press the brake pedal...

Having changed both bulbs and fuses...
Obtained a new relay, and noted that all the relays in my rear load compartment are the same ID number. Not knowing which relay controls the brake lights, I substituted the new component for each relay in turn and checked the effect.
No improvement. Whichever relay I replaced, the brake light warning STILL comes on.

I still have my high-level brake light.

So it's apparently not the bulbs, fuses or relay.

PLEASE tell me it's not going to be the CEM! I'm supposed to be towing our caravan on holiday in 3 weeks' time, and I understand that CEM problems could cost a fortune to fix.

[Clan]

Do you hear a relay click in the REM at the back when someone presses the brake pedal ? ( If you don't it could still be the relay physicaly broken , but if you hear it click it is something positive )

The stop light relay was originaly a double one which had a recall to change it to two separate ones around your cars time , maybe it has already been done , but if you have one odd double relay in there , change it to two separate single ones .. as you say they are all the same standard mini relays

[stonkamike]

Thank you once again for your amazingly prompt response!


There IS a click from the relays when the pedal is pressed - but no lights except the high-level. I can't see any double relays, so I presume the replacement you mention has been done.

I've no guide to which relay does what - taking the top relay position (next to the bank of fuses) as number 1 and working downwards, I have single relays in positions 2,5,6,7,8,9 and 10. Which of these would be the brake light relay?

[Chris_Rogers]

Brake light relay is shown in position RMI5

There is also a plug in shunt in postion RSH6.

Both may be worth inspecting.

[stonkamike]

That shunt you mentioned seemed to click back more firmly when I pushed on it - and it looks like the problem has gone! I've been giving the pedal a workout and things seem to be back to normal.

Many, many thanks for all the helpful advice. Can't tell you how much I appreciate it.:animal-smiley-040::animal-smiley-040:

[ASt85]

THANK YOU TO THE ORIGINATOR OF THIS THREAD.

I've just carried out the shunt replacement on my 2001 V70 - result :thumbs_up:

No more dipped beam bulb failure message.

[Dave18050]

One day everything was ok and the next I had DIP BEAM FAILURE come up on the dash. On inspection it was my drivers side (RH) dip beam light out.

No problems, change bulb and crack on. Oh no too easy, did not work.

Checked bulbs, tried 3, got my multimeter out, bulbs all good.

Checked fizes, all good, but changed just in case.

Checked 12 to live wire, yep we had 12 v

Checked that I did not have an earth fault, nope dropped right down to zero. perfect.

Ah must be the contact on the connector so gave it a clean, still nothing. but the plastic was a bit brittle.

got a new connecter and swapped it out, again power and a good earth, but no light.

I am stuck, I have heard it could be the CEM, but on the wiring diagram both headlights go through the same relay and I have power!

It is just mad!!!!! Why wont it work? can anyone help? going to see if I can see anything burnt on the CEM but it does not make sense (not that I am an electrician).

[ASt85]

Why wont it work? can anyone help? going to see if I can see anything burnt on the CEM but it does not make sense (not that I am an electrician).

Check the plug that connects to the bulb spades hasn't been fried - they have habit of falling apart due to heat & etc overtime - failing that check the earths and then check the shunts under the dash
check out this post

https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=9910&page=2

[Clan]

One day everything was ok and the next I had DIP BEAM FAILURE come up on the dash. On inspection it was my drivers side (RH) dip beam light out.

No problems, change bulb and crack on. Oh no too easy, did not work.

Checked bulbs, tried 3, got my multimeter out, bulbs all good.

Checked fizes, all good, but changed just in case.

Checked 12 to live wire, yep we had 12 v

Checked that I did not have an earth fault, nope dropped right down to zero. perfect.

Ah must be the contact on the connector so gave it a clean, still nothing. but the plastic was a bit brittle.

got a new connecter and swapped it out, again power and a good earth, but no light.

I am stuck, I have heard it could be the CEM, but on the wiring diagram both headlights go through the same relay and I have power!

It is just mad!!!!! Why wont it work? can anyone help? going to see if I can see anything burnt on the CEM but it does not make sense (not that I am an electrician).

Buy a PAIR of new volvo long life H7 bulbs that should sort it fingers crossed🤞