XC90 Gearbox - change gearbox oil or not ??
 

Just wondered if anybody knew a definitive answer to this one. My gearbox oil on my 2005 XC90 D5 (auto) was a brown'ish colour and I made the decision to change it. I opted for Amsoil which i saw lots of postive feeback on this site for. I changed the oil using the "Gibbons" method and all was well.

I then needed to take my car to the dealer regarding something totally unconnected. I got talking to the service manager and mentioned the gearbox oil and the fact I had changed the oil. "FATAL MISTAKE" he said. In fact I can still hear his voice now :-(

Since then I have been paranoid about the gearbox and thinking it may pack up on me at any time. I must say the gear change is smooth with no strange noises.......but one thing is worrying me. When I come to a stop and the XC is stationary, I remain static by keeping me foot on the footbrake (albeit the car is still in drive). If I'm correct doesnt this disengage the gearbox. When I come to move off, if I take my foot off the brake and immediately acclelerate without waiting a second for the gearbox to engage, there is a bit of a jolt in the take off. Alternatively if i take my foot off the brake and give it a second for the gearbox to engage, the take off is smooth.

Is this normal or is something wrong? With regards the oil change, Volvo seem to think this is a bad idea....whose right and whose wrong. They said by changing the gearbox oil, its like adding new anti freeze into a cooling system with flaws i.e. the new stuff will find all the problems.

Any advice pleeeease. Am i just a paranoid XC90 driver or have I got to start saving for a repair bill sometime soon?

There is a risk of dislodging contaminants and causing valves to stick. However for me the risks don't outweigh the benefits. If your oil is discoloured, its not at its best. The system has a filter on it too, so would expect that to do its job too. I would do it, but at the end of the day it has to be your decision.

I think the dealer is trying to scare you it makes a big difference to 99 % of boxs

Nothing new there then;
The knowledge and 'advice' that comes from many of these 'experts' is frankly shocking. There are very few real mechanics left today. Most are what I would call fitters. Perhaps that is a little unfair on the few, but it is how servicing works nowdays; and not just servicing, also the way cars are designed and made.
A track rod end with a grease nipple properly serviced will always outlast a sealed for life joint, but... in the real world such care fails to be lavished and the serviceable joints invariably fail first.
The same with modern auto boxes. Far better than the older sort but requiring a better fluid. So they made the 'sealed for life' units knowing that they would outlast a unit requiring attention that didn't get it. But sealed for life is not actually that, it means good for 100,000 miles, after which or even about which it is on borrowed tiime with its fluids shot. It doesn't need an engineer to explain or indeed understand that a fluid change here will extend the life of the gearbox. But then why should some people be interested with extending the life of a time served unit when they can sell you a new car or at the very least sell you a new box and keep there fitters employed doing just that, fitting it.

I changed the auto fluid on my v70 d5 116k when I bought it in April 2010, it was a VERY dark brown colour and considerably thicker that the bright red oil I bought from volvo (although expensive). I have also recently drained out another 3.5lts and replaced with new, all with no probs at 124K. For the sake of about £35 for 4lts of oil I plan to do this simple job once a year to preserve the box for as long as poss!

Incidentaly I have another issue regarding it cutting out! but thats another post!

today I ask my indy garage about a gear box oil change(2004 d5 geartronic), after consulting the main dealer they have informed me that it can only be done by volvo, the oil is drained, gearbox flushed, oiled up, drained again, filled, run to the correct temp.80 degrees I think they said, levels checked, then diagnostics used to reset the system(reset what i dont no), the indy diagnostics can open this part of the on board computer?

My question is, Is this the case or is volvo trying to rob the work from the indy garage,
has any one done this their self and has anything needed resetting?

CORRECTION, the indy can not open this part of the system

I think it is a case of you pays your money and takes your choice!

I got an indie to do mine - i know it was not a FULL flush, but they drained the pan and torque converter and topped up the ATF fluid thereafter (Volvo fluid) - £120 and it is much better colour than it was (reddish).

others have done it themselves to such degrees as to get rid of as much old fluid as possible using the Gibbons method.

Maybe its a case of only the dealer can do it to the recognised Volvo spec (by the book)

There is, I believe, a counter in the software for gearbox oil change periods. To my knowledge it will not cause any problems, why should it, according to Volvo the box is sealed for life!
Don't be suckered by the Stealership. They are telling the truth, but I believe the software they refer to serves no practical function and so doesn't need to be reset.
Unless anybody else knows different?

Hi,
In my opinion I think they are trying to blind you with science and convince you that you need them to do the oil change for you.

I performed an oil change on my 2005 XC90 D5 with the five speed geartronic gearbox. First thing is to work out which oil to use. I used Amsoil which you can only get by mail order. It’s quite expensive but think it’s definitely worth getting the right oil and see it as an investment. But whatever you use it’s got to meet specification JWS 3309. Other oil to use is Toyota’s oil which is cheaper and meets the specification you need. Or you can plum for the Volvo stuff. But I wouldn’t recommend getting the cheap stuff; it could cost you a gearbox (£3500 - £4000). I then made sure I had a sump plug washer to replace the old one when I had drained the gearbox.

Basically I used the “Gibbons” method. In very brief terms it requires draining the gearbox ATF oil from the gearbox (about 3.5 litres). Once it has drained, put back the sump plug having cleaned the magnet attached to it and remember to use a new aluminium sump plug washer…..one word of warning, make sure you take out the sump plug and not a bolt in the gearbox casing which secures second gear. There are some pictures somewhere on the net to make sure you unscrew the right one. You then need some plastic pipe (1/2 inch diameter), and take out the pipe which connects the gearbox oil cooler to the gearbox. You then place the new plastic pipe you’ve bought into the gearbox oil cooler, start the car and you will see gearbox oil pumping down the clear plastic pipe into a measuring jug you may find in your kitchen (don’t tell the wife). Pump about 1 litre out, and then replace exactly the same amount into the gearbox. You will need a funnel for this because you have to replace it through the hole where the gearbox dipstick fits. Just keep doing this until the fluid being pumped out is the same colour as the fluid going in.

I bought 8 litres, but if I did it again I would buy 2 x 5 litre bottles (10 litres total), because I ran out and although the fluid being pumped out was nearly the same colour as the fluid going in, it wasn’t quite. I think 10 litres would have been just enough with enough left over for topping up.

Put the original pipe connecting the gearbox cooler and gearbox, back where it should be and check the levels, and that’s it. There is nothing to reset. If you really want to, there is an oil change counter within the transmission ECU, but this can be reset using a fairly basic diagnostic computer. I’m sure any auto electrician would do this do you for about £15, but from what I’ve researched, there is no real need to do this, unless somebody knows different. Here is a useful link with photo’s which will help you.

http://www.volvoxc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=89649

Most important bits, use good oil, use new sump plug washer, make sure you replace the same volume of oil you take out with fresh oil, make sure you check your levels and make sure Volvo do not intimidate you into thinking you cant do this.

Good luck mate