Auto Transmission Fluid Change
 

This Post relates to changing the fluid on a GEN3 (2009) XC70. The Gearbox is a 6-Speed Automatic (TF-80SC).

Firstly, a big THANKS to Pete, for his thread in the GEN2 section of this Forum. Details here http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=149516

The Gearbox is supposed to be sealed for life, but many owners report changing the fluid and finding a dark sludgy liquid in there after only 50,000 miles (see Pete's thread). My own car is on 58,000 miles, and the fluid was in reasonably good shape, still reddish, and looked OK (but I don't use my car for towing, I always select neutral when stationary, most of my journeys are quite long, and rarely stop-start driving).

Preliminary Information

• The Auto Box holds 7.0 litres of Transmission fluid JWS 3309 (according to my manual).
  
• JWS 3309 is relatively hard to find (I don't think Halfords stock it!), but I used Opie Oils http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-69402-mo...ion-fluid.aspx The Volvo part #'s are given below:
  http://www.defender2.net/gallery/alb...rbox%20oil.jpg
  
• Unlike most gearboxes I have changed, removing the drain plug does not allow all the oil to escape, only 3 litres. There are two main procedures for changing the oil:
  

1. The one "drain and fill" described here, where approx 3 litres of fluid is changed at a time.
2. The "gibbons method" of flushing where a drain and fill are included in the circuit, and the car's pump moves the oil around, drawing in fresh oil, and dumping old oil. On the Volvo, you remove the line to the transmission oil cooler, and put that to waste, and have another pipe to a container of new oil into the oil cooler, when the car is started the old oil is pumped to waste, and the new oil is drawn into the system.

• Using "drain and fill", you only change 3 litres of fluid at a time, but it is easy to do. If my maths is correct, on the first drain/fill, 43% of the oil is replaced, and on the 2nd drain/fill, 60% of the oil will have been replaced, on the 3rd drain/fill, 76% of the oil will have been replaced, and on we go...

Tools Needed

4 litres of JWS 3309 Fluid (I managed to only use 3, but see below).
Torx 55 bit for filler plug
Torx 40 bit for level check plug
17mm hex sump plug tool (like this http://www.moatdirect.co.uk/drain-pl...tool-614-p.asp )
Funnel for Refilling (see my pic below)
Torx bit (T30 I think) for Sump Guard
Bricks.

Procedure

I went for a short drive first to warm things up.
My drive is on a slight slope, so when I run the front of the car up on some bricks, the car is level, and it gives me slightly more access underneath.

First I removed the sump cover (large plastic cover underneath with 8 x TORX fasteners).

Then the Air Filter box. It's mounted on 2 rubber holders. I removed the pipe at the front (inlet) first. Then loosened the jubilee clip where the airbox goes into the large pipe along the front of the engine (and sealed both ends with cling film to make sure I didn't drop enything in there).

Now loosen the TORX 55 plug (shown here with funnel unserted for refilling):

http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/...k/CIMG0008.jpg

Go under the car, and you'll see a large fastener at the bottom of the gearbox. It's a concentric drain/level plug shown here - the upper picture shows the level-plug (torx 40) and the lower picture shows the 17mm sump drain plug:

http://i1159.photobucket.com/albums/...odrainplug.jpg

^^^ Note the sump drain plug has a "pipe" to the top of it, which sets the level.

Have a container (which will hold a minimum of 3 litres) under the drain/level plug now, and catch all the escaping oil so you can measure it later... I removed the level plug first (you have to do this anyway, to allow the 17mm tool to be inserted). When I removed my level plug, around a cupful of oil escaped (engine off, lukewarm, level ground).

Now take out the 17mm plug, and catch the escaping oil.

Measure the drained oil (mine was exactly 3 litres).

Install the drain plug (I didn't use a new washer, but I will next time) and level plug (I didn't install the level plug, and a small amount of new oil escaped when the 2nd litre was filled, before I quickly re-insetred the level plug). Both the level screw and the filler plug have re-useable rubber washers. If you are happy to measure the new oil, and confident you have added the same amount as drained, you may wish to just refill the oil with the same amount as drained, and the level should be correct (see below for the info from VADIS on oil level checking).

Using the funnel (as shown in the first image), I refilled exactly the same amount of oil as had drained (3 litres).

Torque setings for plugs:
Drain Plug 45nm
Level Plug 8nm
Filler Plug 30nm

Once refilled, re-install the filler plug, air filter box, sump guard, job done.

Future

I'll change the gearbox fluid with a fresh 3 litres every 20k miles I think - from what I have seen that will keep the fluid relatively fresh...

Next time, I'll add slightly more than the 3 litres (probably 3.2 litres, so 200ml overfilled), put the vehicle back together (except the sump cover), and perform this level check (from VADIS apparently):

I should expect that following this procedure, (obviously without a workshop diagnostic tool, we can't check oil temperature, but realistically, "lukewarm" should be fine) that around 200ml (i.e the amount I purposely overfilled by) of fluid will run out of the level plug, and the level will be set correctly.

The car does drive better since the fluid was changed, the gearchange does seem smoother.

Thanks for the detailed follow-up but is the above a good idea, even if not regular stop/start?

AFAIAA, there used to be a stop-neutral feature in the control software for the 5 speed but it was removed as it apparently was thought to cause more rather than less gearbox wear over time.

This has been well discussed in the Volvo XC forums. Maybe there were other issues too, e.g. probematic valve body problems but I'd understood the stop-neutral feature to be a problem.

Seems to be a much-discussed issue.

There's no suggestion that auto transmission wear is increased if the car is left in D (some people say that moving the selector constantly between N and D in stop-start traffic actually increases wear). However I would assume that because the viscous coupling is engaged and working when D and stationary, that it will increase temperatures, and hence "wear" the oil.

So if I'm stationary for more than a few seconds, I select N and put the handbrake on. If it's likely to be more than a minute, I'll also stop the engine.

I don't like (and it's not considerate, and contradicts the Highway Code) to sit with my foot on the footbrake giving the people behind a face-full of red brakelights for more than a couple of seconds once stationary.

Regarding holding on brakes, I always put the handbrake on too rather than holding on the footbrake for the same reasons. It probably beneficial anyways with these given the known H/B shoe issues.

Regarding 'D' vs 'N', I don't know but tend to hold in 'D' at idle unless it's likely to be for a longer time (minutes) then I switch off and go to 'P'.

That's what it said in my Mercedes Owner's Manual, if stopped at traffic lights or for short periods do not move the shift out of D as this causes excessive wear but obviously if you are stuck in a traffic jam then better not to stay in D as the oil will get churned up but it should never get so hot it will "wear the oil". To provide drive from the engine the oil in an automatic gearbox is continually sheared or cut this is a design feature of the oil it is specifically designed to take a lot of punishment, yes it will get hot but to cause the oil to deteriorate quickly you would need to tow a large load continuously. A lot of vehicles with auto boxes these days are sealed for life but what the manufacturers don't say is if the vehicle is used for towing or used in harsh conditions (excessive temperatures [hot or cold] or dusty conditions) then the oil should be changed more often. The oil in my Mercedes auto box was changed for the first time at 120,000 miles and it came out runny and dark red, the mechanic said "you have a towbar but you don't tow a lot with this car do you?". He said if I had towed a lot it would have been thick and "gungy". After the oil change there was little difference in the gear change but there again it was a Mercedes and the auto box was always pretty smooth on gear change.

I've always thought of the process of moving from 'N' to 'D' (and back) in an automatic with clutch/brake bands when stationary as being similar to the manual engagement/release of the clutch in a manual when stationary except it is done through servo's and hydraulics . Each time it is performed, there is some wear on the bands so the more often it is performed, the more accumulated wear over many thousands of miles. Replacement of the bands when sufficiently worn to require it is obviously a major operation. Therefore, even if the oil does deteriorate faster if regular and frequent stop/start driving is done without leaving 'D', it is cheaper/easier to replace as and when necessary.

However, my analogy with a manual clutch and my idea of what causes autobox component wear could be completely wrong so I may be unwittingly doing more damage by keeping mine in 'D'.

I'm not sure what happens though in a modern automatic fitted with auto engine switch off when stationary/restart when ready to move again as this would also necessitate 'D' to 'N' switching and back.

I've just followed Martin's excellent guide to do a drop and fill on my 09 V70 D5. Really easy to follow and not that hard to do.

My fluid came out a deep purplish colour so I think it was due. I did have it done by a Volvo Independent specialist back in March 2013 when the car was on 92,000 miles. My only concern is that I've put 3L in but seem to have only collected 2.5L. There was a little bit of spillage but I don't think it could account for 0.5L. The question is, have I overfilled it or has the Indy underfilled it?

I'm planning on going for a drive this evening before repeating the process tomorrow so I will see what happens then. Whether the volumes match after I've done another change!

I would see how the car feels when driving. Hopefully when you repeat the process tomorrow, you'll measure 3L...

Well the plan is to do quite a few miles tonight, see how it drives and get the fluids nice and mixed ready for tomorrow! Given that it's 120k old and only had one drop and fill, I wanna do another and change a lot of the fluid before I start doing yearly/bi yearly drop and fills!

Was the fluid hot when you levelled it, as if it was hot levelled by the Indy, and you cold levelled it, that could possibly account for 0.5l - I'm not sure though.

I followed the procedure as listed by Martin. Started the car up and went through every position in the box, holding it for at least 2 seconds. I then removed the level plug and a small amount of fluid dropped out. I have to say that that fluid did feel luke warm. I had my phone on the Torque app to measure the temp but as the transmission temp rises along with the coolant temp, I wasn't to trusting of it. I let it run for a couple of minutes and no further fluid dropped out. So I replaced the level plug and switched the engine off.

Mine has had stop neutral on it up to 138000 miles. I just had it removed and the adaptions driven. I reset the fluid counter and service interval parameters before it went to Squire Automotive Ltd in Burntwood Staffs. I have done four flushes using at least 15 litres JWS 3309 each time and reset the fluid counter. I also fitted an auxilary cooler in front of the condenser. My gearbox serial number is within the quoted series that can develop B4 servo problems but I have left well alone as the box changes barely perceptibly since I did the fluid change. You cannot successfully judge the fluid temp of the g/b using coolant temp. I have Torque Pro and Vida/Dice and have proved it.
The filled for life is bull****. These are in loads of different marques and all give trouble if the fluid is not changed. Those who want to keep their Volvos long term change it every 30 - 60K miles.

Yes, I fully understand the Torque was never going to be the ideal option for measuring the ATF temperature, but it may have been able to at least help identify when the ATF is between 50 and 60 degrees C, rather than just guess work.

As it is, I repeated the process on Friday after taking the car for a drive to help mix the ATF. When I came to do the leveling procedure and removed the sump plug, a good amount of fluid dropped out before I realised something was not right and put the plug back in. The temperature must have hit 60C and opened a valve as nearly 2L of extra ATF came out. I would strongly advise that any owner performing this task lets the car completely cool down before you start the leveling procedure, otherwise the residual heat soak from the engine and gearbox means you will reach 60C very quickly. As it was late Friday afternoon/evening when I was doing this, I left it overnight and did the leveling on Saturday morning.

Also the part number for the crush washer on the Level Indicator Pipe is 30713220. The initial washer given to me by my dealer was wrong and they had to search for this number through a repair procedure.

I know this is an oldish thread...but on the 6speed geartronic don't you need to reset the oil counter after ATF change? then reset adaptation?
I am pretty sure this is recommended on the 5speed but not sure about the 6....

VIDA states it should be done with the 6 speed too

Never did it, not had any issues!

okay thanks, I thought so...the process defined on the forum by forum members (6sp) does not show this yet they don't seem to have any issues post ATF change?

This information from VIDA may help understand why the fluid change counter needs resetting when changing the AT fluid. It also explains about resetting the adaptation.

Resetting the adaptation and the counter for "Transmission oil, replace"

The transmission has torque-regulated, adaptive pressure regulation. The pressure regulator enables the transmission to regulate pressure during each shift to prevent hard shifting. Each shift is assessed by the transmission control module (TCM) and is stored in the internal memory. This makes it possible to compensate for transmission and clutch wear. It is important that the adaptation in the memory is reset so that the transmission works normally after the repair. Because the fluid was changed during the repair, the counter for transmission fluid change must also be reset. If the counter is not reset during draining/replacement, a diagnostic trouble code may be generated under the wrong conditions.
Note! This applies only if the transmission or one of the components in the transmission have been replaced.

Resetting the “Transmission fluid change” counter
The transmission control module (TCM) has a counter for fluid quality that counts the number of times the transmission is subjected to too hard a load or too high an ambient temperature. If the counter is not reset during draining/replacement, there is a risk that a diagnostic trouble code will be set under the wrong conditions. Thus, it is important that the counter for transmission fluid change be reset.
Note! This only applies when the transmission oil is changed and when the oil is changed during repairs to the transmission's temperature sensor.

What IS the best way to measure ATF temperature? Can VIDA/DICE do it?

Yes VIDA/DICE can show the ATF temperature.

Hi, I'll be picking up my 'new' V70 shortly and a series of "sump dumps" is high on my list. The car is a 2009 D5 205bhp auto which, as far as I know, is the 6sp auto. I've done a few of the 5sp AW boxes but not one of these.

Does this procedure relate to all 6sp or just the XC?

Thanks

All 6 speed geartronic...

I've done about 5 sump dumps now - the ATF is a lot better but still a long way from coming out cherry red, which in my view just goes to show the benefit of letting the clean ATF and the detergent in it, really go to work.

What I did do on the last one was to set the level and not rely on having taken measurements from a calibrated jug. Even having been careful in my measurements on each and every sump dump, I was about 200ml under when measured 'the proper way'.

If you're going to do a few sump dumps I would suggest checking using the prescribed method once you've done a few.

Hello All,

When I bought my V70 (second hand) from Rigby Volvo in Birmingham, I persuaded them to change the AFT fluid as there was no indication on the service record that it had ever been done and the car had a tow bar fitted indicating that at some point it had been towing something. Does anyone know how Volvo dealers change the ATF fluid? they cannot be doing the "sump dump" method as it would require repeat visits to them. Do they have a machine/pump that does this and empties ALL of the ATF fluid before re-filling it? I would hate to think that Rigby just did one sump dump and that was all.

On my old Audi A6 the Audi dealers had a machine that drained and replaced the oil in the multitronic gearbox which was needed every 40,000 miles. My local indie Audi specialist did not have this machine and advised me to go to Audi for the 40,000 mile service to get the fluid changed. Must have worked as I did 180,000 miles in 7 years with no gearbox issues. (Admittedly the engine did go bang eventually, but not the gearbox!)

Any thoughts anyone?

Richard

It's called the "Gibbons Method" (for some reason)

They take a pipe off the cooler, run the waste out, and with the car running, pull the oil through the system at the same time

Takes around 16 litres of oil to "flush" the system

Well documented, and also I have a pdf of the process if you want me to mail it to you.

Richard - link to volvo pdf for "gibbons" here:
http://www.defender2.net/gallery/alb...d_change~0.pdf

You will notice I picked some of the diagrams for my initial write-up :)

Hi Martin,

Thanks very much for the information and link to the PDF file. To be honest it is probably a bit beyond my mechanical ability! I think I will stick to getting it done by the dealer every 2 years or so to be on the safe side.

BTW, this is going to sound a little bit mad but I think I may know you. If you are who I think you are I will send you an email to you work email address to see if I am right. :-)

Thanks anyway.

Interestingly, today I booked my 08 plate XC70 in for its 9th annual service with the Volvo dealer I use. I was told over the phone what was listed by Volvo as being required for this service. And guess what, changing the automatic gearbox oil was listed.
Has Volvo changed its policy so it longer states that the box is 'sealed for life', unless used as a taxi or for towing?
Anyone else heard of this being a service item now?

Volvo never did claim the box was sealed for life: they maintained the ATF would not need changing during the normal working life of the vehicle unless used for taxi work or towing. "Chinese whispers" have resulted in the wrong information passing into folklore.

I did yet another sump dump yesterday. I've lost count - must be up to 6 maybe 7 now and the fluid is still a long way from coming out the colour it went in. That's positive as it tells me the fresh fluid (and detergent) continues to break down deposits.

What I can say is that these 'boxes are sensitive to fluid level. The first 4 or 5 times I measured and replaced. The next one I used the prescribed method to check level and found myself 200ml short. Yesterday I did the same and still found that I needed about an extra 100ml until it started coming out - I can't explain that but suspect that residual oil in the container and jug, plus perhaps the difference that the meniscus makes in the jug all contribute (there are no leaks before anyone assumes that)

I allowed it to drip until it reached 50 degrees. Ramps are useful for removing the undertray but the filler (drip) plug can be reached at arm's length without them. There is a noticeable improvement in lower gear shifts and it's now starting to shift even more smoothly - it was never an issue but I believe in 'preventative maintenance'.

To reiterate, these boxes do seem very sensitive to level so use the prescribed method - measure and fill isn't always accurate enough.

What the Volvo procedure doesn't specify is, having gone through all the years twice for a minimum 2 seconds in each gear, with the engine running, does it matter what position the selector is in? I've always done it in Park as I don't fancy being under the car with it in Drive!

Can I assume that if you just take the level plug out and pour 7 litres in with a bucket below the level pump you would have done a complete change? I don't like the idea of doing 3 litres at a time your just mixing old oil with new,

Can I do that?

Thanks
Russ

No, because there are many different places that oil resides in an auto box. It is not like an engine where (almost) everything drains down to the bottom. In an autobox you have all of the channels in the valve block, you have the torque converter and the cooling loop - less than half of the oil resides in the sump. Your method would achieve the same as the 3 litre change, and throw away an additional 4 litres of new oil, leaving 4 litres of old oil in the gearbox anyway. The nearest to a "complete change" that you can achieve with the the "gibbons method" described in the first post. You will need to cycle through the gears for 2 seconds in each position in order to shift oil through the channels in the valve block.

However, it's fairly pointless, as RM955I has observed, because there are built-up deposits in the valve block etc that are dissolved by the detergents in new ATF over time. Thus your "complete change" will rapidly become "old oil" anyway as it washes all of this out.

My expertise is with Chrysler auto boxes ......... the old Torqflite 727 and the much newer 545RFE ............. on these a sump dump every 25K and a filter change is imperative to keep the box trouble free for many 100's K miles.

Both methods have their limitations ............. a full flush is good to change most (not all) of the lube, however, the new lube needs to be flushed again after 10 -15k miles as the detergents will have had time to work on the crap. This method is often not used as the new oil starts to remove the sediment crap which in turn can be distributed around the box and cause other issues.

The sump dump is preferred on older boxes as you are removing a little bit of crud with every dump and it tends not to get distributed around the box.

Given the choice, the sump dump method is the way to go, unless the oil is 'burnt' .......... if that is the case, then the damage has already been done.

Having read the other thread as well as this one can I offer a perspective. I always sump dumped on my previous cars because I didn't know if the box could be completely drained without removing from the car and because done over the engine oil period it was not financially expensive on each occasion. The box was a ZF 4HP20. You have to know that the 4HP20 uses a rare and very expensive Esso developed fluid and cannot use any other!. However extra power being put through the box seemed to wreck the clutches and the box failed anyway. I'm not sure if a 100% exchange would have prevented that.

So my thoughts are these. If the maximum of detergent in the circulating fluid is a good thing and time to let it do its work is desirable, why not do a 100% fluid exchange to remove any circulating crud and then run the box for a reasonable time to allow the detergent to scour contaminated internal surfaces and then repeat the procedure at least once perhaps twice so that over a period of say 9 months the box will have had new fluid to clean it out and ultimately new fluid remaining in a spotlessly clean box to run it. The fluid used in these boxes is not excessively expensive. Well not compared with what I had to previously use!

Would that not satisfy both sides of the discussion? :rose:

Quick update from the original poster...

I'm now on 134,000 miles. I've done a sump dump every Autumn since writing the original posting, so I guess I've now changed around 98% of the fluid.

The last dump came out completely clean (none have been "dirty") - almost the same as the new stuff I put in...

the 'box is still lovely and smooth...

What's more - I'm now quite quick at this as I do the gearbox and engine oil in the same morning...Usually at the same time as swapping my summer tyres for my winter tyres...

100% agree with you!
:)

Hi all

Can I query this method?

I took my level plug out on my Gen3 V70 and a litre came out? Now to me that's not right I would have expected either nothing or 1-200ml of oil.

After taking the drain plug put only 1.8litres came out.

Warm box and completely level, so where is the 3 litres? Cause mine only holds 1.8litres and would appear to be 1litre over filled!

Should I now drain 1 litre out so the level plug has set the sump correctly?

Russ

Also Volvo are no help they said the sump holds 3.5 to 4 litres!!

The more I think about it the more I wonder if you are setting the level with the engine running? Hence the litre would be circulating and thus the level would be ok but I would have thought this should be done cold and engine off.

Can any one shed some light on this?