AWD Prop Shaft Removal (Guide)

[Paffel]

Managed to take off my prop shaft today, after hearing a nice bang somewhere on the car I decided to take the prop off as a precaution.

Tools needed;
An hour
6mm Allen Key or Hexagon Bit (ideally 3/8 inch drive)
Extension bars for chosen socket drive
Ratchet
Screwdriver
12mm, 13mm, and possibly 17mm socket.

OK so this s how I went about it.

Jack up the drivers side of the car, so that both front and rear wheels are off the ground. Support with axle stands, as you'll be getting underneath it for a good while.

For a little extra wiggle room, I removed the exhaust middle bracket. This turned out to be a good move, as one bolt is a right pain with the exhaust in the middle.



You'll see the propshaft hiding behind the exhaust. On each end are 6 bolts, with a 6mm hexagonal headed bolt. You'll need to undo these bolts, you can do one and then rotate the shaft to gain access to the others.



If they are a bit stuck, you'll need to brace the shaft somehow so that you can undo the bolt against the rotation of the shaft. Simply put, carefully jam screwdriver in the universal joint to stop it rotating, while you loosen the bolts.

In the first picture, you can see a black metal bracket that the exahust hanger is on - this has 6 bolts - 4 that screw directly into the car vertically, and 2 that are angled - these 2 hold the center bearing of the propshaft in place. If you undo the 2 angled ones first, this will allow the propshaft some movement before you drop it out of the car.



I then took out the other 4 bolts, manoeuvred the bracket out of the way, and with a little wiggle dropped the shaft out.



Which leaves you with 2 unconnected ends - forward is your transfer box, rearward is the viscous coupling.

Forward;


Rearward;

[Thanatos]

paul if you just raise one side off the floor it makes it easier and when removing the bolts 3 oclock on the front and 6 oclock on rear and a 3/8the 6mm allen key socket and leave the centre bolts till last

[Paffel]

Spot on Andy, I did rears at 6 o clock, but fronts at 9 o clock - exhaust was really in the way at the front. Jacked up drivers side and that was the best side to get in there.

[mikealder]

One other thing to consider is to replace the twelve cap head screws with new ones that have the heads drilled for wire locking, the locktite can be made ineffective when inserting the bolts as they get coated in glue, once the bolts are secured simply wire lock the bolts as pairs and they cannot work loose.

Also consider higher temperature grease for the front CV joint due to its close proximity to the exhaust, some of that heat proof bandage for exhaust manifolds is also a good addition to the exhaust where the front prop CV joint is sat next to.

A swear box is handy for when you refit the prop, especially the centre bearing carrier as getting the carrier to line up to get the bolts to start is really good fun (not) - Mike

[Thanatos]

and refitting is a 2 man job

[Paffel]

Yea it looks tricky to hold it up and tighten, you need some movement in the universal joint so you can actually fit the damn thing.
I'd recommend a 2 man job but it is not impossible on your own.

[mikealder]

Put it in the boot when you come to the Preston Meet next weekend I am sure Andy and myself can refit it in under 30 minutes as long as there isn't snow on the ground - Mike

[Thanatos]

The tools will be in the car mike

[Paffel]

Nah its cool guys, but cheers for the offer - it's staying off permanently now. I'll be dismantling the car in the summer anyway, as its underside is quite badly corroded.

[benwatson]

Is the Centre bearing and flang ok is so would you be interested in selling it to me regards Ben