Volvo 940 TD (95) Timing Belt Slipped

[GeeJay]

Hi there,
I'm new to VOC, always owned Volvo's (25 yrs) but never has a timing belt slip. Needless to say I'm still in disbelief (grieving stage!) in what has happened but determined to sort it out and get it back on the road. Right now I could do with some assistance and advice and not sure where to start. Is this the most appropriate place for this thread? I have been inspired by the practical tips shown by John Clays articles entitled "Camshaft Timing Belt Replacement Tips, Thoughts" ....I'm sure I'll get there !
Cheers
GeeJay

[NI_Volvo_Nut]

Personally, my 1st step would be to replace the belt and try it, you might have gotten lucky and have no damage, but its pointless stripping the engine to inspect for bent valves in my opinion.

I'm assuming of course there's no obvious damage, like a broken camshaft ect.

I don't know a great deal about these engines, so I'm sure someone else will be along shortly with a more in depth view.

[jor]

Commiserations. What do you think was the cause? Don't think there is a 'how to' article here, but tfb did a write up on changing one. If you have not got a manual there is an online one at k-jet.org. There is a drayco timing belt kit on ebay for £90, presumably this has the water pump, tensioner and belt (120 teeth, not 119). Genuine Volvo would be worth pricing as well, I don't know about the belt, but pump and tensioner were around £45 in 2008. The advantage of doing this would be that you would only need to do the belt alone at the next change. The crankshaft locking tool costs around the same (tool 5187). Have a look through the 940 and diesel forums to see if there is anyone local to you who could lend it and the timing tools. You will need a heavy duty torque wrench to remove the 350Nm damper bolt.


jor

[GeeJay]

Jor & Volvo Nut,
Many thanks for your replies, I really do appreciate your comments. Managed to free-wheel car into my garage ready for the job..easier said than done. I have just unclipped the timing belt cover to find that the belt is still intact but loose, suspect the tensioner! I found the manual on K-Jet.org and looking now to purchase a reputable timing belt kit.
Jor, I was unaware there is a 119 and a 120 tooth belt? Are you sure I need the 120 tooth belt ? I've read about the infamous crankshaft pulley bolt, and have a few ideas on how to get stop that rotating whilst I swing on my wrench! Good idea re the specialised tools, I will have a look and post a question about locking and timing tools - someone may appreciate some cash towards the cost of these tools.
I spent some time searching for a belt tensioner gauge today...didn't realise there were so many different units to measure tension!

Will keep you posted and put some pictures up when I get some time, that will explain why I'm so keen to rescue my Volvo 940...she's a beauty!

[jor]

The tools do turn up from time to time, as do the cars, but the problem is Geejay that you can wait or an unknown length of time before they eventually do. Peter Milnes would have all the tools and is located quite close to you, but I have not seen any posts from him for awhile. Wouldn't hurt to send a pm to see if he could be of assistance.
The 120 belt was for cars after 1993 (not sure of the precise date), when the tensioning system was changed from adjustable to fixed water pump. Count the teeth on your belt just to be sure. I don't think that the belt tensioner tool is essential.

jor

[GeeJay]

jor,

Thanks again for the advice, it does sound like I need a 120 tooth belt,(N Reg)
- now I know I will count before purchasing a replacement. Will also try and contact Peter too. One last point, you mentioned the tension adjustment on the water pump pulley, does this mean the tensioner pulley (normally comes with a new belt) acts as a guide for the belt..not another tensioner?

Thanks again
Gary

[jor]

The options are to get Volvo parts as above cost being approx. 40 notes for tensioner 40 for pump + ? for belt, or get that Dayco kit on ebay for 90. You might not feel comfortable using non Volvo parts.
If you can't get Peter I'm sure John Davies would give you an opinion as to the likelyhood of engine damage, which going only on what I've read is high. There is a 940 on ebay at the moment which might be worth considering as a source for parts, depending on whether anyone else wants it and the practicality of shifting it from Rickmansworth.
When replacing the belt you will find that it won't go on without pushing the tensioner back on it's spring, so when you release the belt should be properly tensioned, so maybe save on the gauge. The older cars had an idler in the place of the tensioner and the water pump instead of three holes in the casting has one hole and two slots which allowed the position to be adjusted thereby altering belt tension.


jor

[GeeJay]

Well...its been a while now and I thought I'd update those who helped out on my volvo repair.
The first thing I did was to buy another Volvo 940 TD (Silver estate, 1994) .
This gave me time to carry out the investigation and repair over the summer of 2010. On investigation I found that the hard plastic outer ring on the timing belt tensioner had split into 3 parts, providing enough slack on the belt for the engine to be mis-timed. Fortunately when it happened I did not persist in trying to start the engine..as a result I did not make matters worse and no damage occurred to the engine of my maroon, 1995 940 TD. I replaced the water pump, tensioner and idler, the timing belt and all the drive belts. Its started first time and I'm so pleased I didn't give up.
I made the tools for removing the crank pulley and holding the camshaft pulley still while the timing was realigned.
I'm keeping this one now and after some consideration will look to sell my silver one (1994) as a useful vehicle. Its too reliable and everything functional to scrap or dismantle for spares.
If anyone needs advice on a belt change for a volvo 940 ... feel free to ask !

Thanks to Jor & N1_Volvo_Nut

[v8mad0]

Fantastic news and well done to you

[JohnL]

I have the same failue of the idler pulley, outer plastic part coming off, these ones are aftermarket ones, and the genuine idles are solid for the whole diameter. Luckilly it also didnt damage the valves.
Always get the genuine parts for this job, its money well spent!!
Glad it got it going again.

John