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Car stalls when coming to a stop

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Old Sep 3rd, 2022, 22:14   #1
Beadybc
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Default Car stalls when coming to a stop

I had this problem before and now it has returned. The car stalls every time I put the clutch in and brake to come to a stop, it idles fine when stationary. Last time I fixed it by reinstating the recirculation valve. All air lines are the same and haven’t been moved, what else could be the problem?

Could cleaning the IAC valve help?

Could the problem be a leaky/stuck recirculation valve?

It’s a 97 B230FK
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Old Sep 4th, 2022, 09:31   #2
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Cleaning the IAC won't make any difference. Have you checked the vac hose on the brake booster ?
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Old Sep 4th, 2022, 10:18   #3
Beadybc
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Quote:
Originally Posted by griston64 View Post
Cleaning the IAC won't make any difference. Have you checked the vac hose on the brake booster ?
I did notice that the clip that goes onto the manifold end of the hose looks possibly a bit damaged, I’ll try replacing that clip and see if it makes a difference.
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Old Sep 4th, 2022, 16:02   #4
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Originally Posted by griston64 View Post
Cleaning the IAC won't make any difference. Have you checked the vac hose on the brake booster ?
Replaced the clip but it had no effect so I upped the idle a bit and the problem went away, that was until the alternator belt snapped…
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Old Sep 4th, 2022, 23:31   #5
Forrest
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Have you checked the recirculation valve? When I had similar problems with a 1994 B200FT it was due to a small hole in the diaphragm. It was more coming off the throttle than using the brake that triggered it.
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Old Sep 5th, 2022, 00:23   #6
SnineT
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I can't tell you which part to go after but what you are experiencing is also caused by overfuelling when the rpm's are dropping so in effect the car is still shoving 60 mph fuel levels into the cylinders basically causing it to flood. Or going the other way the supply is irregular and the cylinders are dry when it cuts out. This applies to all cars btw it's not just a Volvo thing that can crop up.

If it's what I think it's likely to be a pump and probably the one in the tank. If you can locate where it is *under the rear seat* on a lot of cars get your ear down on it and listen for the buzz or lack of it when slowing down, obviously you'll need someone to help you with that.

p.s a new fuel filter might be the issue if you've not changed it in a long time.
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Old Sep 5th, 2022, 08:19   #7
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Still sounds like the turbo is not dumping. This occurs shortly after acceleration, or for example stopping when going up hill.

If you keep the rpms up a little for around 5s (ie do not close the throttle, when it goes into lean closed loop O2 sensor feedback mode) it should keep going while the pressure dissipates, then it should idle ok.

Check the vac pipe, manifold nipple and diaphragm.
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Old Sep 5th, 2022, 09:35   #8
Rversteeg
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Default Idle

With the IAC line clamped off, it should idle at around 500 rpm. If it does, the IAC control system cannot be the reason the engine stalls.
I am not sure how you "upped the idle a little bit", as basically you should not touch it.
Did you clean the throttle housing and checked if the switch at the throttle plate shaft is actually working and set correctly?
Does it have AC and is it still on its original ECU? I had stalling issues when I ran my 98 B230FK on an earlier version ECU which could not recognise the AC being switched in during driving. When coming to a stop it did not anticipate the heavier load and was too late in compensating.
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b230, iac idle air valve clean, recirc valve, stall


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