Petrol smell inside/out.

[volvo always]

I have a 1989 240 GLT estate and have started to get a smell of petrol in the car. It also smells outside when at the rear and seems to be the boot area.

There are no drips or pools of petrol on the floor and can't see any droplets/ leaks on the tank.

What are the main problem areas?

Having to drive it 52 miles a day to/from work so would like to get fixed asap. Driving it with windows open!

Thanks, James

[Clifford Pope]

From experience - corroded tank seam where it bolts onto the chassis rail on the nearside. It doesn't have to actually drip to cause a strong smell - look for petrol staining in the mud-trap and on the underside of the tank.
Does it still do it if the fuel level is low?

Rusted outlet pipe on top of the tank.

Rusted union at the fuel pump under the rear seat. I had a pin-prick leak in the outlet union - there was a very fine hardly noticeable spray when the engine was running.

Perished rubber connections to the tank, either outlet or the return pipe.

Perished filler vent pipe connector.

Spare can cap leaking !

[volvo always]

Thanks Clifford. Today there was no smell but not full. I have also noted dampness on nearside wheel arch today it could be petrol, certainly is oily and wet and smells solvent's could be my leak. I'll investigate.!

James

[Clifford Pope]

If you remove the nearside wheel and poke around where the tank bolts on there is usually a build-up of mud which makes actual leak detection difficult. If you clear it all away with a vacuum and a flexible stick you can then get a better view of where any seepage is coming from. It could be down from the top of the tank where the pipes attach.

The tank seam is a weak point where the top and bottom are welded together - badly, because there are lots crevices not filled with weld.
I have in the past done a successful repair in-situ by lowering the tank a couple of inches, very carefully cleaning out the cracks and around a pin-hole perforation in a rusty layer, and then patching with chemical metal.

You could do a better repair by removing the tank and flowing on resin with a long brush from the inside, tilting the tank so that the resin lies in a puddle on the inside of the seam. (I've used that method to repair old oil lamps etc)
Or you might feel that having got the tank out you might as well get a new one - pricey I think.

[volvo always]

Originally Posted by Clifford Pope

If you remove the nearside wheel and poke around where the tank bolts on there is usually a build-up of mud which makes actual leak detection difficult. If you clear it all away with a vacuum and a flexible stick you can then get a better view of where any seepage is coming from. It could be down from the top of the tank where the pipes attach.

The tank seam is a weak point where the top and bottom are welded together - badly, because there are lots crevices not filled with weld.
I have in the past done a successful repair in-situ by lowering the tank a couple of inches, very carefully cleaning out the cracks and around a pin-hole perforation in a rusty layer, and then patching with chemical metal.

You could do a better repair by removing the tank and flowing on resin with a long brush from the inside, tilting the tank so that the resin lies in a puddle on the inside of the seam. (I've used that method to repair old oil lamps etc)
Or you might feel that having got the tank out you might as well get a new one - pricey I think.

Thanks for the info Not had time to look at it yet, even working today! So far it hasn't smelt of petrol only when the tank was full. Resin sounds a good plan for it. I suppose the nearside gets more water spray, hence why rust gets the seam. After this coming week should be able to investigate. I bet a new tank is at least £200?

James

[Clifford Pope]

Originally Posted by volvo always

I suppose the nearside gets more water spray, hence why rust gets the seam.

And it's closer to the chassis rail and body structure. There's a perfect mud trap on top of the rail between the tank and the side of the spare wheel well. Dirt just piles up there, and the poorly-constructed tank seam sits in it.

[BrianH]

As you have an injection engine if water gets into the petrol system, the only thing you can do is replace the injection system. It works on VERY close tolerences............water is curtains. It happened to me. Not all is lost though.
This where breakers come in, its not too expensive.
There is very good advise above.
I could see the water trap when put took the access to the tank out (245 GL) and looked down. I soaked the area with waxoil. Still it rusted through. As said, its a rust trap!
Its better comming out than going in!
Good luck.............240's for ever.

BrianH 220k Miles