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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Phase 1.5 T4 why is it considered the best option?Views : 1728 Replies : 21Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 6th, 2013, 12:12 | #1 |
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Phase 1.5 T4 why is it considered the best option?
Hi guys like my title says, why? I own a phase 1.5 T4 and I think it's just a pain when trying to buy things for it and usually more expensive!!! My latest purchase is some pi 40mm lowering springs and they cost £20 more than the phase 1 option! I think the next time I've got to buy something for it and I'm told of different variants of the item I want I'll just say its the most expensive one, cos that's way it tends to be!!!
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Sep 6th, 2013, 12:18 | #2 |
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Have fun with them banging
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Sep 6th, 2013, 12:36 | #3 |
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If you purchase original Volvo parts is it not only cheaper in the long run but also not a pain.......as that is why they have Chassis numbers and registration numbers to get the correct part number.
If you go to shoddy places you get shoddy service and huge rip off prices!....only to be repeated the same time next year as the part has worn out due to inferior materials. Obviously you don`t know much about your model of motor as you would not ridicule it. But then everyone to there own. |
Sep 6th, 2013, 14:44 | #4 | |
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Quote:
This post wasn't a question about genuine parts. By the way, My genuine volvo alternator failed and I got a non genuine one cheaper and and for the last three years has worked perfect!! My non genuine wipers clean my windscreen and my non genuine exhaust lets the gas exit my engine just like an OEM one! Anyway my point is why is the phase 1.5 the preferred one? Cos when ever I want anything for it I can't just go oh I want a phase 1 X, I have to give the chassis number every time! |
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Sep 6th, 2013, 15:21 | #5 | |
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Are you new to decent motors like you are new to this forum as when you go to a decent dealer the first thing they ask about any part you need is what is the Chassis number or reg. number!.....so that with the least fuss you get the part you require. As said if you want the cheap inferior part way then go to your inferior dealer and just ask for a filter or plug and you may get nothing that fits your car. Do it properly and you get what you want....simples. By the way, your cheap alternator will not last you 12yrs like your Volvo one did....your cheap or Halfords wipers won`t last the winter out like the Bosch ones will with no noise......your chrome stainless exhaust has lasted 12yrs but your cheap one will only last about 2yrs if your lucky.....looks like you will soon be due to replace them all again! If you are toooooo lazy to know your chassis number why don`t you keep it in your mobile? I am sure with your more silly questions you will get more silly answers. |
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Sep 6th, 2013, 15:27 | #6 |
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To step in here: Is there anyone that can explain the actual differences between the P1, 1.5, and 2, Because I'd quite like to know. I know I have a P1 (1.8 non-GDI, Renault gearbox).
Also I've been asked for the reg no. at my local indy factors for years because it saves all sorts of faffing about with "Is it a GLS/Does it have rear washer/wiper/is it blue?", and when I've been to a main dealer for my late Mercedes 190E They ALWAYS asked the VIN no. As you were, carry on. |
Sep 6th, 2013, 15:42 | #7 |
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The change over yrs. are between Phase 1 1999 - 2000 Phase 2
There isn`t strictly Phase 1.5 .......the differences between the models better suspension also design differences different lights etc....wings, bumpers better for tuning 1855 engine are all mixed within this name. In simple terms when the Ph1 finished and the Ph 2 took over there were still hundreds of earlier parts to use up so when the motor went past on the conveyor belt whatever was in the parts bins got fitted untill the earlier parts dried up, it is really just that. So to put a finer point on the thread with a so called Phase 1.5 it is most important than any other model to give the reg.number as you say the VIN number or the chassis number to get the correct part otherwise back and forward to the supplier. The VIN number will give what is fitted and the year of the model to which it is referred to also the colour, but the Chassis number will tell you the most accurate part fitted like the replacement part number for the same item that the VIN number says which is fitted. the Reg. number is about as important as the Chassis number as you can tell the time of year in which year it was produced. Although Volvo work on the proceeding year for manufacture they seem to know more than the owners about there cars i suppose due to the large computer setup that they have had for years. Online suppliers can also give wrong information as they don`t know the differences and just put all the models under one heading for a particular part hence why i will own a Post Office when i return to collect all the money from returning wrong or unwanted parts supplied. Last edited by 960kg; Sep 6th, 2013 at 15:49. |
Sep 6th, 2013, 15:46 | #8 |
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I have to agree, not al OEM parts are better than non-OEM parts per se. Some people can really exaggerate about the bad quality of parts in comparison to OEM. I've used a lot of aftermarket brand parts like bearings and stuff, and I have to say I can't remember any of these parts have ever failed me in all the years that I have driven a certain car. Brakes for example.. if you take Brembo and Ferodo, you're good and maybe better than OEM.
I always say: try before you cry However, specific parts, engine-parts, bodywork, etc... I think you better don't take chances with.
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Sep 6th, 2013, 16:04 | #9 |
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The famous well known names you mention will always be tops and on par with Volvo parts and most seem to know the better names.
But when you come to Scantec they produce the most inferior suspension parts that will need replacing after 6 to 18 months. We do complain about our motors when they go wrong but they are mostly 10 to 17yrs old and the Volvo parts may have only just been replaced for the first time. I agree some non Volvo parts are ok and if your not keeping the car then use them but don`t expect a lifetime of no trouble while you own the car or if you decide to keep it. There are loads and loads of threads on this forum where members are replacing parts not that old and have to pay the labour out again as well. Most of us learn the hard way trying to protect the wallet but i have owned 12 Volvo`s in 17yrs and always buy Volvo parts for engines and moving parts i have learnt in the past that "Volvo pays" that is why i promote it to others and always will. |
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Sep 6th, 2013, 16:10 | #10 |
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It's clear 960kg just wants to argue and be on his high horse. I don't know all the differences between phase 1, 1.5, or 2 and I can't always afford to get reamed by the dealers and I sometimes have to get parts from say a scrappy, or I might choose to modify my car the suspension for example is the latest thing I've looked in to and I now know that phase 1 and 2 have different springs and shocks I don't know which ones mine has. So if I had to get a part from the scrappy for example I can't just go to a phase 1 and know I'm getting the correct part cos the phase 1.5 might have something the phase 2 has or visa versa, I've seen on this forum that people consider the 1.5 to be the best of both, my question was simply why?
I've owned many cars each with their own merits, if anything I've found my volvo the most troublesome of them all and the most expensive but I like it. |
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