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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Replacing rear tie bar/rodViews : 1913 Replies : 14Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 6th, 2013, 09:11 | #11 |
Gazzer
Last Online: Feb 22nd, 2018 13:12
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Portsmouth
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Welding
You really need to weld up the hole. The arm is a piece of pressed steel that is a certain shape in-order to cope with the stress and not deform. By cutting a hole and not repairing it you have introduced a weakness into it. If not repaired yhe arm could under certain conditions, break / snap through this area. I fyou are uncertain about doing the job yourself, ask around. I do quite a bit of welding for people because i have all the equipment, including ability to make complicated repair patches. Excellent fix for the knackered nut.
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Sept 1999 Volvo V40 1.8 Petrol. Non GDI 168k. Now no more. |
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Sep 6th, 2013, 15:05 | #12 |
Premier Member
Last Online: Jan 3rd, 2024 14:43
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Toronto Canada
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do you think a weld could be attempted without removing the sway arm? I ask as that was the whole point of my fix.
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Sep 6th, 2013, 19:47 | #14 |
Ancient
Last Online: Apr 15th, 2024 17:03
Join Date: May 2012
Location: chesterfield
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I realise that Pierremcalpine's location is shown as canada, but one point worth mentioning is that... a welding repair to a suspension component could result in an MOT failure here in the UK. Just in case anyone was thinking of doing something similar !
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Sep 7th, 2013, 11:30 | #15 |
Gazzer
Last Online: Feb 22nd, 2018 13:12
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Portsmouth
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Welding
A weld will only result in an MOT failure if done wrong. I have welded many suspension components, including suspension arms on lots of different cars and all have passed the MOT including a couple of my own.
Golden rule is, get it done by someone who knows what they are doing and has the correct equipment.
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Sept 1999 Volvo V40 1.8 Petrol. Non GDI 168k. Now no more. |
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