Removal of damaged locking wheel nut

[cheshired5]

Originally Posted by mrfixer

easy removed with a dremel with a small grinding bit

Interesting.....I have both of these, so how do you use them to remove a seized bolt?

[skyship007]

How to remove stuck bolts a flame thrower, grinding and drilling:All

Lubed Up?
The liberal application of penetrating lubricant is by far the most common way to persuade a seized fastener into turning loose. Its likely that you're familiar with *products like WD-40, PB Blaster Penetrating Catalyst, Liquid Wrench or Royal Purple Max Film. Talk to enough mechanics and everybody seems to have a favorite. When applied to a rusted fastener, these lubricants work their way into the tiny space between the threads of the nut and bolt, break down the chemical oxidation along the way. Once enough of the oxidation softens, the bolt should be easier to turn. Simply spray the problem area and allow five minutes for the penetrant to work. By tapping lightly on the nut or bolt you can help to break some of the areas bonded by the rust. If the bolt still doesn't turn, reapply again and wait 10 more minutes. If there's no luck, you can try a third application and wait overnight. If that doesn't work, it's time for plan B.


Wax On, Wax Off
OK Daniel-san, if you don't have any penetrating lubricant on hand or you want to try another technique, the wax method may be your savior. Long before Norm Larsen figured out the formula for WD-40, mechanics were using wax to do their dirty work. All you need is some paraffin wax (candle wax) and a source of focused heat. A propane torch or a heat gun should be used to gently heat the fastener. In this case, you don't have to get it too hot, just warm enough to melt the wax. Once the metal is warm enough, touch the candle to the fastener around the edges and allow the wax to melt. The heat will pull the wax into the gaps between the bolt and nut threads and allow for easier turning. Remember that the wax will tend to flow to the heat source, so heat the bottom threads the most. If this technique fails, it's time for plan C or D.

The MacGyver Tactics
If you're feeling particularly MacGyver-esque, there's always Diet Coke or a rust-fighting solution like Evapo-rust. Bubbly soft drinks like Diet Coke and regular Coca-Cola contain phosphoric acid, a substance known to do a number on rust. Diet Coke doesn't contain the sugars so it's generally easier to clean up and doesn't attract ants. Pour the Diet Coke or Evaporust around the bolt and let it soak in. You may need to soak a rag in the solution to keep it in the right area. You can also use some crumpled aluminum foil to wipe away the dissolved rust. This method takes the longest (you'll generally need to wait overnight), so consider this a last ditch effort.


My comments:
Anything involving the rear brakes of a V40 is a cut off and even a drill, tap or grind job. Even Oxy does not always work for salt corroded in bolts!
(Don't blow yourself up if you can't afford a diesel).

When changing anything down the rear end, make sure you have replacement bolts available (Not cheap stainless as it fatigue cracks).

Liqui Moly make the best penetrant, as the Germans always were ahead of the rest in specialist chemical engineering terms, army mustard use in particular!

[morrismen]

Worth a try. Get some "Plus Gas" and spray it in the locking nut where its joining the wheel ONLY. Leave it for 30 mins. Then see if you can wrench it off easily.