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Auto Gearbox Noise.. Quick Answer Thread

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Old Nov 11th, 2011, 14:42   #1
mikealder
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Originally Posted by TurboZutek View Post
It's possible to drain the entirety of the 5-speed box, but you need to get at the oil from the cooler instead of through the drain plug.

http://linesi.co.uk/volvos60autotran.html

Chris...
But then when you start the car the 3 or 4 litres that are in the torque converter (that doesn't come out of the sump plug) will contaminate the new oil leaving you with around a 50/50 mix of new and old oil - Mike
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Old Nov 11th, 2011, 18:17   #2
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Originally Posted by mikealder View Post
But then when you start the car the 3 or 4 litres that are in the torque converter (that doesn't come out of the sump plug) will contaminate the new oil leaving you with around a 50/50 mix of new and old oil - Mike
No...you are wrong Mike. As you start the car, the oil from the torque converter gets pumped out through the oil cooler and out through the pipe you have connected. I have just done this, and the first 4 litres or so of oil is black and dirty. As you top up the box with new fluid, it eventually runs clean out of the oil cooler outlet.
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Old Nov 11th, 2011, 19:11   #3
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The post I quoted says nowt about running the engine, I appreciate the link from the post does expalin this procedure correctly though - Mike
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Old Nov 5th, 2012, 19:21   #4
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Ok... Just recently I have noticed there is alot of "I have a Gearbox Noise" Threads so I thought I'd Post this up to help Forum Members out in their Questions..

The Most Common type of Gearbox in Volvo's is the ASW 55-50 SN so we'll assume we're "Working" on that.....

Noises from Gearboxes can come in many many forms but most can be "Solved" (Or at least "Lessened") by changing/Flushing out the old gear oil ect

WHEN DO I FLUSH IT

If the fluid smells of "burnt toast" consider changing it if the colour is more "brown" or "black" than a cherry aid "red" consider changing,

If you do a lot of towing , city driving in heavy traffic, then consider checking the oil smell/colour at about the 50k miles mark, and then every 20k after, and when its looking "brown" more than red, start saving up to change it "sooner" Rather than LATER



HOW DO I FLUSH IT

Auto Boxes come in two "Bits" the Box itself & the Torque Converter each "Bit" is filled with oil but only the Box Itself can can be "Flushed" the torque Converter CANNOT (it has NO DRAIN POINT) the Box contains 3.6 Litres of Oil & the Torque Converter contains 3.8 Litres of Oil

A. Get under the car & locate the Gearbox Drain Plug undo this & allow the old Oil to Drain into a suitable container.

B. Refit the Drain Plug & fill up with Gear Oil NOTE IT MUST BE JWS 3309 SPEC This IS available from Local "Car Shops" but you MUST READ THE SMALL PRINT to ensure you have the correct oil

C. Top up to the Correct Level & Drive the car for Approx 2 Days (As Normal)

D. Repeat steps A & B After driving

E. You MUST repeat steps A & B at least 4 to 5 times to ensure you have completely "Changed the Oil" in BOTH the Box & the Torque Converter.

OVERVIEW

When changing the Oil in the Gearbox the new Oil mixes with the Old Oil in the Torque Converter thats why its necessary to change it Several times As said above its approx a 50 / 50 split between the two & just draining the 3.6 Litres out of the box will NOT be sufficient to effect any change in the Gearboxes operation.

If your Working to a Budget then set aside approx £150 to £200 to do the job properly The Oil is About £6 to £9 per litre & you'll need 16 litres MINIMUM to do the change.

It should be noted however that not all "Gearbox" Clunks & Noises are actually Gearbox related some are far from that E.G. worn or damaged Engine Mountings can cause "Clunks" when driving off from Traffic Lights things like this MUST BE CHECKED & Eliminated before going down the Gearbox Oil Change route.

Another common mis conception is Gearboxes are "Sealed for Life" .. They are not the AWS 55-50 SN box is NOT unique to Volvos they are fitted into many other cars & use Different Identifier Codes

2006– Pontiac Torrent (GM code M09 (FWD), M45 (AWD))
2004– Chevrolet Equinox (GM code M09 (FWD), M45 (AWD))
2004 Saturn Ion (GM code M43)
2003–2005(?) Volvo XC90 2.5T engine only
2002–2008 Lancia Thesis
2002–2005 Opel Vectra C and Opel Signum
2002–2003 Saturn Vue V6
2003-2007 Saab 9-3 (GM code M09)
2004-2006 Nissan Maxima, Nissan Quest, Nissan Altima under Nissan part number RE5F22A, built by Aisin
2001-2007 Renault Laguna V6 and 2.2dci (code SU1)
2001-2005(?) Volvo S60
2004 Volvo S80 (2.5T)
2006– Volvo C30, S40, V50 (T5)
1997-2002 Volvo C70 (Phase 1)
1999- Volvo S/V/C 70

Volvo owners manuals list the transmission as fill for life, meaning that there are no scheduled transmission fluid changes under normal operating conditions. This is controversial and believed by some to be a major contributing factor to increased valve body wear, eventually causing transmission problems that require valve body repair or replacement, and possible transmission overhaul or replacement.

Every Auto Tranny Mech I've ever spoken to recommend regular fluid changes, at least every 50,000 miles. JWS 3309 must be used. If incorrect fluid is used it will result in "improper operation" and eventual Box failure.
Lets look at it this way a AW55-50SN Box is EXACTLY THE SAME as a RENAULT LAGUNA SU1 002 Box (its made in the same factory & Probs on the same Machine) yer read a Volvo Manual & its "SEALED FER LIFE" & then yer read a RENAULT MANUAL & its "Change Oil Every 50,000 Miles !!!"

Rather Confusing isn't it ???

As you can see the "oh I'll Change the Tranny Oil on Sat" thought is NOT AN OPTION & BEFORE you go down THAT route check your .....

Engine Mountings
Drive Shaft Bearing (both Inner & Outer)
CV Joints
Wheel Bearings
Brake pads (fer "Binding")
Tyres (for Uneven Wear & Road Noise)
Brake Backplates (for "Catching" on the Wheel Hubs)

ALL can & DO make "ODD" noises from Time to Time If you've tried everything else & your left with a Gearbox Oil Flush/Change then I hope this has been a useful read.


& My Thanks to Andy D for his help & his "Proof Reading" Skills

Keith
unless you are a professional I would not change the gearbox oil get advice on the noise first ,plus you have to be spotlessly clean one spot of foreign matter put in the gearbox and you may have big trouble !

Tony
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Old Feb 2nd, 2014, 18:25   #5
trulis
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Default 5 gear problems

hei i have a v40 from 2000 with manual transmission and coupel of days ago i lost my 5 gear so now i only have 4 gears and they as well are cainda lose so i wounder if i need to change the hole transmision or i can fisk chepper without changing a transmision
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Old May 27th, 2014, 20:49   #6
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Massive amounts of thanks for your advice. I have just bought a cheap C70 2.0lpt 03 105,000 full service history with problems Knew about- stood for 6 months, flat battery fitted new now though, loads of travel on a spongy brake pedal and I knew the gearbox was a bit iffy but, after picking it up I noticed the gearbox is loads worse after driving it for longer.The box wont change when it is supposed to, it changes when its not supposed to, I can feel engine braking on slowing down from about 40mph(is that normal?). It is also hesitant selecting into drive from neutral or park 2/3 seconds sometimes, oh yes with a clunk. I know that I need to replace top engine mount for definate. I spoke to a volvo specialist in Bristol today and I requested software update and gearbox flush. then go from there. some people have said on here that a flush can dislodge crap and gunk that will make it float into the running of the gearbox and do it no good at all. The way you described changing the oil sounds so much better and I can do it myself, would you advise on a software update just so that everything is updated anyway, also with the battery being so flat? Is there any cheating ways of getting the oil in the box quicker i remember that being a pain(especially with a broken wrist at the mo

I would appreciate any advice you can give me on this matter

Cheers simon
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Old May 27th, 2014, 20:54   #7
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Sorry guys, I put the question into google and it went straight to the last guys post, i'd better read through thread before I ask any questions.
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Old May 27th, 2014, 22:04   #8
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Simon, the only way to introduce the new fluid to the box is via the dipstick tube for the autobox DO NOT be tempted to release the large bolt on the top of the autobox that might look like a filler port, it isn't this bolt secures the clutch band for third gear and if the bolt is taken out the band drops down inside the box making an easy job rather more difficult and very costly if you employ a swear box!!
Just make sure you only use JWS3309 spec fluid and a series of sump dumps with about 500 miles between them should clean it up, bargain on 3,5 to 4,0 Litres of fluid for each sump dump, when checking the fluid level remember there is only 200ML of fluid between low and full on the hot side of the dipstick so add fluid in small amounts - Mike
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Old May 27th, 2014, 22:21   #9
simon spark
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cheers mike really appreciate your response. I'm not challenging your knowledge in any way shape or form, whats your opinion on using the toyota I-tv oil, have you tried it. I have read on some threads that people have used it after using amsoil and they didn't have any problems but they have noticed it is not as smooth.

The quote that I got from the v specialists was £120 for box flush, oil change and software update, thats got to be wrong hasn't it?
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Old May 27th, 2014, 22:49   #10
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Toyota Type iv (type 4) oil is JWS 3309, so if it is either JWS3309 or Toyota Type iv then it is good enough for the box.

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