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Wiring Diagram For Cruise Control

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Old May 28th, 2011, 19:45   #1
2Diesels
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Default Wiring Diagram For Cruise Control

Anyone got a wiring diagram for cruise on my 850? also a diagram of the pipework/components
I've been fiddling about today & it's working again tonight but how long for?
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Old May 29th, 2011, 08:29   #2
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If you Google 'Volvo 850 cruise control' the first hit will give you the repair manual.
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Old May 29th, 2011, 21:27   #3
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If you Google 'Volvo 850 cruise control' the first hit will give you the repair manual.
Super duper thanks very much
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Old May 29th, 2011, 21:53   #4
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With cruise, don't always think the fault is electrical, it might be, but the system works on vacuum, so if you can set the cruise and the speed tails off, or it feels like it's trying, chances are one of the hoses has split so check the hoses including the bellows. Good luck.
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Old May 29th, 2011, 22:06   #5
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With cruise, don't always think the fault is electrical, it might be, but the system works on vacuum, so if you can set the cruise and the speed tails off, or it feels like it's trying, chances are one of the hoses has split so check the hoses including the bellows. Good luck.
Yeah well it's very intermittent sometimes works other times nowt...............thought I had it sussed last night but it's off again.

Feel guilty now cos I've just had a rant at you on another thread but it was justified
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Old May 29th, 2011, 22:19   #6
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Feel guilty now cos I've just had a rant at you on another thread but it was justified[/QUOTE]

So you should lol, a neighbour has finally got rid of his V6 Rover estate, 5 head gaskets in just less that two years, a new water pump, radiator and countless thermostats never sorted it. I suggested a gallon of petrol and box of matches, but he soldiered on bless him. He now owns a petrol V70 since he has seen me fix other peoples cars but never my own, I've owned Volvos for years.
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Old May 29th, 2011, 22:24   #7
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Feel guilty now cos I've just had a rant at you on another thread but it was justified
So you should lol, a neighbour has finally got rid of his V6 Rover estate, 5 head gaskets in just less that two years, a new water pump, radiator and countless thermostats never sorted it. I suggested a gallon of petrol and box of matches, but he soldiered on bless him. He now owns a petrol V70 since he has seen me fix other peoples cars but never my own, I've owned Volvos for years.[/QUOTE]

I'm a big Volvo man myself but the 75/ZT is a lovely thing to own......honest. Quite rare for a V6 to suffer HGF it's usually the 1.8 but V6s can lose their water via a ctracked stat housing & eventually get cooked & then you do get gasket trouble but a well serviced V6 should last a good long while, mine's a diesel so you only get the ususal common rail diesel issues you get with owt else like leakback etc but hey it's a jarman lump so blame them
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Old May 29th, 2011, 22:29   #8
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Makes no odds what you own, get a bad one and you will know all about it, over the years I've thrown thousands at cars, and worked on some seriously expensive motors, Bentleys, Astons, Porsches, Rollers, Jags, Mercs, and they all have something in common, they ALL go wrong, just less than other cars, but when they do, it just costs more.
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Old May 29th, 2011, 22:37   #9
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Makes no odds what you own, get a bad one and you will know all about it, over the years I've thrown thousands at cars, and worked on some seriously expensive motors, Bentleys, Astons, Porsches, Rollers, Jags, Mercs, and they all have something in common, they ALL go wrong, just less than other cars, but when they do, it just costs more.
Quite right or as I was once told it doesn't matter how much your car cost you the birds will still **** on the roof
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Old May 30th, 2011, 21:13   #10
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Well I dont understand....................using the instructions recommended I have successfully ruled out a vaccuum fault & it doesn't appear to be the stalk switch or the pedal switch but one thing in those instructions confuses me, it tells you to check in the fusebox for voltage at various pins when you operate different parts of the switch but tells you if the voltage is present to renew the switch & if it isn't to check continuity between the switch & the fusebox surely that's a mistake & it means renew the C/C unit.
Anyhoo I seem to have all voltages where they should be & it still failed to function this afternoon but tonight on my way here it was perfect......very odd I think I'll try a fresh unit in the fusebox as I'm pretty convinced that's it. Must admit though I haven't tried looking at blink codes cos I've left my little tester wot I made at work but even so everything seems hunky dory so it points to the unit in my opinion...................wonder if it's a dry joint I think I'll get my electronics wizard mate to check it out
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