V70 ignition barrel repair success

[John Underhill]

Just thought I would update the forum on my ignition problem where the key would only turn to Position 1.

Having thoroughly canvassed the forum for advice and solutions I set about the job today.

I tried jiggling the key, lubricating the lock with WD40, Teflon spray, white grease and banged the column up and down all to no avail.

Next step was to get the car mobile again and following advice from forum members I successfully carried out the work without disconnecting the battery, any other electrical connections, or removing the steering wheel.

To start the car it is simply a matter of removing the ignition electrical switch from the end of the ignition barrel and operating it with a screwdriver. To gain access you first need to remove the instrument cluster bezel, which levers out very easily with a flat screwdriver without damage, followed by the top cover of the steering column which is connected to the instrument cluster bezel by a leather-cloth strip and simply lifts off. The bottom steering column cover is held up by 3 x T25 Torx screws with unrestricted access. Once the steering column covers are off the ignition switch is clearly visible and is held on the end of the barrel with 2 x T20 Torx screws (one can be got at easily with a Torx screwdriver, but the inner one requires a small right angled ratchet and Torx bit giving a stand-off of about 2 inches).

Having removed the ignition switch, place the key in the ignition lock and turn to Position 1 to inhibit the steering lock and satisfy the immobiliser, then actuate the removed, but electrically connected ignition switch with a 5 mm flat screwdriver ensuring the button in the middle of the switch is depressed. By doing this you can turn the switch to the usual 0-1-2-3 positions as with the key. Position 3 (starter) is spring loaded and automatically returns to Position 2 when released. The car will now start and can be driven

At this stage I phoned Rufe for the price of a new barrel and found I could get one coded to my original keys for just under £200 delivered - a great Volvo Forum C3 discount on this item from Rufe Delivery is next day coded to the key number held by Volvo against your VIN. The only problem can be where the barrel has been previously changed by an independent garage and the Volvo database not updated! To change the barrel you have to drill out the original security bolts which are a bit obscure to get at and looked like being a problem to remove with my tool resources!

Having established the availability and cost of a new barrel and now having the ability to start and drive the car, I decided to go a step further and see if I could sort the mechanical barrel problem. I had read Jim314's post http://volvoforums.org.uk/showthread...gnition+switchon a similar problem and seen the Locksmiths video on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TzUduzjR9W4so was able to identify the steel plate at the bottom of the barrel unit. This is easily visible and accessible from under the steering column. The plate is held in place by 3 centre-pop peens and the idea is to loosen it a bit. According to the locksmith's video the steel plate will drop down a bit but will still remain attached until the actual barrel cylinder is removed. I cut out the 3 peen spots with a Dremel with cutting disc and after a bit of levering with a screwdriver I detected a bit of movement, but the plate did not drop. Once the steel plate was loosened the ignition key turned to all 4 positions without resistance

At this stage I left the lock plate loose and put everything back together. Now everything is operating as normal, including the steering lock and on the face of it I have saved £200!

On reflection, I could have gone a stage further and dropped the lock plate as far as it would go to search for the broken metal tab that is believed to be the cause of this problem, but once the tab has been displaced from the mechanism I believe it can lie on the loose lock plate without issue (fingers crossed). In any case, having done the job once I could quickly get to the plate again in a few minutes with a few basic tools (I will add T20 & T25 Torx bits to the on-board tool kit - just in case!)

Initially I was very reluctant to tackle this job, so a big thank you for the help and support of forum members and the web knowledge base.

Cheers

John

[Aveton Gifford]

Nice job....well done that man

[Jim314]

Great to hear that you could get it going simply by loosening plate with the ignition lock in place in the vehicle!

If someone would want to replace the lock assembly, here is some information from someone on a US Volvo forum. The method now most frequently used to loosen the security screws holding the ignition lock to the steering column is to use a dremel to cut slots in the heads so they can be removed with a screwdriver.

The two torx screws for securing the ignition switch to the left end of the ignition lock body are self tapping and the holes in a new lock assembly are smooth untapped.

[S60 PNV]

Given how easy it now is to obtain torx security bits I do wonder why anyone would cut them with a dremel.

Heck, I have every security bit known to mankind. I don't have a dremel.

[John Underhill]

Originally Posted by S60 PNV

Given how easy it now is to obtain torx security bits I do wonder why anyone would cut them with a dremel.

Heck, I have every security bit known to mankind. I don't have a dremel.

The 2 x security bolts that secure the complete lock barrel assembly to the steering column are not Torx, but the waisted captive bolt type where the head breaks off on tightening to a given torque leaving a hemispherical cap with no keyways whatsoever - hence the need for the Dremel, chisel or right angled drills etc to get them out. The access is not very good with just the steering column covers removed, but would probably be easier after removal of the wiper, indicator stalks and steering wheel.

[myfirstv70]

Good effort John, well done. At least you didn't have to order a new lock!
Nobby

[Jim314]

The fact that the Volvo ignition lock has proved to have such a high failure rate and that the straightforward repair is to replace the ignition lock, makes the use of the breakoff head bolts by Volvo a questionable choice. Of course, if 'security' torx were used this would not provide much security from thieves, but what good would removing the lock be if the immobilizer would prevent the starting of the engine?

An additional problem in removing the two bolts by unscrewing them is that they are not parallel. So if one of the bolts is unscrewed before the other, then the lock drops down on one side and the other bolt binds and cannot be unscrewed. Once one bolt is loosened the smallest amount, then the other must be loosened. Alternatively, the lock assembly must be suported from below so that it cannot drop until both bolts are removed.

It seems to me that the Volvo ignition lock is a defective design. A critical part is made of pot metal rather than steel and that part has a high failure rate, due to its breaking under stress of ordinary use.

[2.4TSE]

Thanks for this excellent post, John.

I was fortunate that when my 2003 V70's ignition key barrel jammed when I was in the middle of nowhere, in the pitch black, I was just (using as much force as I dared without shearing the key) able to turn the key and start the engine.

On getting home I'd found your post within seconds of starting and elected to try the repair option the following weekend before I spent good money on a replacement barrel.

Using your post as a guide, I used my Dremel to tidily cut through the three peens holding the plate below the ignition barrel. With a screwdriver as a jemmy I then popped the plate down about a millimetre further clear of the barrel. It remained firmly held in place by a tang inside and didn't rattle - and the key then turned smoothly again. Several weeks later, this remains the case.

It took me 45 minutes from start to finish and saved a wad of cash.

The only things I'd add to the original description are to use goggles when handling the Dremel (I've had a cutting disc disintegrate on me before and was very glad that I was wearing goggles when my face got peppered with high velocity shards) and to protect the centre console with an old cloth if, like me, you don't want to risk damage from sparks.

[Jimro]

Thanks John, saved my a fortune.

My 1999 V70 D2.5 manual had the same issue of the key only going to the first position. Spoke to a local independent Volvo garage and he quoted about £180 plus VAT plus one hour labour to replace the barrel. Interestingly he also suggested for replacing with a second hand lock it is simpler and quicker to replace the whole steering column rather than mess around with the sheer bolts. Told me I could get the key chips reprogrammed by a local specialist.

Was waiting for him to come back to me as to whether he had managed to source a second hand column when I came across this post. Didn't have a Dremel but decided it was worth a gamble. £33 later and 30 minutes dismantling and grinding, and the lock is working perfectly :-)

One small tip (which is probably bleedin' obvious but took me a minute to suss) is to turn the steering wheel 180 degrees to all easy access for the Dremel through the large part of the wheel.

[bobmccann]

Thanks John, and all other comments here.

I have a 54 reg S60 D5 Geartronic and this problem happened to me yesterday evening.

Fortunately although the key was very stiff to get past position I, it was still able to turn that bit further to start the car and was again very stiff to switch off again. I tried the Teflon spray in the lock route before going online and frightening myself at the potential costs involved to get a repair, and as it is booked in for a service and MOT tomorrow I didn't want to be in a position of leaving it up to the local garage to have to fix it.

I followed the instructions above and agree all is very accessible. A word of advice, don't try to do this with the key in at position I with the radio on as I did (probably being a bit thick, but hey ho) because there was no movement in the plate at all. After a bit of cussing and swearing I thought the key may have been interfering with the process and removed it. When I tried prising the plate again there was a slight movement, I am talking less than a mm, it was the difference between the plate appearing to be slightly recessed to being flush, hardly discernible, but unbelievably the key now works as normal.

As said by John I could have spent more time fighting it to get the plate to drop, but if it's working then that's good enough for me.

Has anyone had any further problems since they did the fix, or is that it ( until the next thing!)

Thanks everyone, especially John, this has genuinely saved me money. Fantastic!

Cheers

Bob.