If your looking for petrol starter motor removal I done a guide a few years ago here: http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=119813
This job is a pain in the arse. I will get that out the way first. So if when you turn the key to start the engine and nothing happens, check all other suspects before removing the starter.
Here is what I checked before getting to this point:
I also done a few extra things:
Anyway suffice to say all the above made no difference, and as the car is on 211k miles, I suspect the starter/solenoid has had its day. So on with it. Just a quick note, I am pretty sure this is the same for both RHD/LHD but there may be very slight differences to ease of access. I suspect RHD is actually a bit easier because the brake master cylinder/resevoir gets right in the way when trying to undo the starter bolts. But anyway I'll come to that.
Engine: My engine is the D4192T2 engine, the starter motor is the exact same part no. on the original S40/V40 diesel engine so it might be identical removal on that also. I am not 100% sure it is the same for the D4192T3 or D4192T4 engines. The starter motor is a different part no. but that might be because it's different gearbox. The engine block etc are identical afaik.
Tools needed:
Nothing special, just a few spanners, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and the same size sockets on a decent wrench and extension bar.
Time needed: First time I done this took about 3 hours. Now I can do it in under 1 hour. So if this is your first time, with the help of this guide, I estimate 1 and a half hours.
Step 1 - Remove the engine cover and the battery negative cable:
Step 2a - Remove 3 10mm nuts keeping heat shield on.
Step 2b - Pull heat shield out. This makes space available to access various things, you'll see why shortly.
Step 3a - Remove air inlet hose. This is the hose that goes from the MAF to the turbo. Remove jubille clip at the MAF:
Step 3b - Remove jubilee clip at the turbo:
Step 3c - Remove the air temp sensor and the pcv hose from the air inlet:
Step 3d - Now remove air inlet completely:
Step 4a - Undo the 2 10mm bolts attaching the oil return pipe to the turbo. The front one here is easy to access:
Step 4b - the bottom one is a pain to get to. If you have a small 10mm spanner you can just about get at it and you can only get a quarter turn (if that) at a time on it. So crack it off with the spanner:
Step 4c - once they are cracked off, they are well lubricated from oil so they undo quite easily so then you can use an extension with a 10mm socket to undo it quickly (you will be there for hours doing quarter turn at a time with a spanner).
Step 4d - once the bolts are out you can move the pipe to the side a few inches. Doesn't sound like much but it's enough to allow the starter motor past it when the time comes:
Step 5 - Remove the 12mm nut holding the positive battery cable on to the starter motor solenoid. Also slide of the switch cable above it. Ignore the other nut that just goes from the solenoid to the starter body itself:
Step 6 - Remove the 3 14mm Bolts holding the starter in position. It's incredibly tight, especially on a LHD as the brake master cylinder is right in the way. So I cracked them off with a 14mm Spanner then again put the socket on an extension bar and rotated them off quickly by hand. The very bottom bolt cannot be accessed by socket (half inch drive anyway) so you need to attack this with a 14mm spanner:
Step 7 - Remove starter motor from vehicle:
This job is a pain in the arse. I will get that out the way first. So if when you turn the key to start the engine and nothing happens, check all other suspects before removing the starter.
Here is what I checked before getting to this point:
- Check the battery is in good shape
- Check fuses and relays. The starter relay is below the steering wheel you have to remove the plastic to get to it.
- Check the battery cables/terminals are tight with no corrosion
- Check/clean the ground points on the chassis behind the battery box and on the gearbox
- Check the cables at the back of the starter are tight and that the switch cable which just slides on has not fallen off or come loose
- Tap the starter with a hammer a few times and try to start the engine again
- If you have a multimeter, check the connections on the starter are actually getting power
I also done a few extra things:
- I swapped the ignition switch as I had a good one spare
- I checked the immobiliser ring antenna behind the ignition barrel.
- I have 2 keys so I tried to start the car with both in case a chip in the usual key has gone bad
- Replaced the starter relay with a good spare
Anyway suffice to say all the above made no difference, and as the car is on 211k miles, I suspect the starter/solenoid has had its day. So on with it. Just a quick note, I am pretty sure this is the same for both RHD/LHD but there may be very slight differences to ease of access. I suspect RHD is actually a bit easier because the brake master cylinder/resevoir gets right in the way when trying to undo the starter bolts. But anyway I'll come to that.
Engine: My engine is the D4192T2 engine, the starter motor is the exact same part no. on the original S40/V40 diesel engine so it might be identical removal on that also. I am not 100% sure it is the same for the D4192T3 or D4192T4 engines. The starter motor is a different part no. but that might be because it's different gearbox. The engine block etc are identical afaik.
Tools needed:
Nothing special, just a few spanners, 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and the same size sockets on a decent wrench and extension bar.
Time needed: First time I done this took about 3 hours. Now I can do it in under 1 hour. So if this is your first time, with the help of this guide, I estimate 1 and a half hours.
Step 1 - Remove the engine cover and the battery negative cable:
Step 2a - Remove 3 10mm nuts keeping heat shield on.
Step 2b - Pull heat shield out. This makes space available to access various things, you'll see why shortly.
Step 3a - Remove air inlet hose. This is the hose that goes from the MAF to the turbo. Remove jubille clip at the MAF:
Step 3b - Remove jubilee clip at the turbo:
Step 3c - Remove the air temp sensor and the pcv hose from the air inlet:
Step 3d - Now remove air inlet completely:
Step 4a - Undo the 2 10mm bolts attaching the oil return pipe to the turbo. The front one here is easy to access:
Step 4b - the bottom one is a pain to get to. If you have a small 10mm spanner you can just about get at it and you can only get a quarter turn (if that) at a time on it. So crack it off with the spanner:
Step 4c - once they are cracked off, they are well lubricated from oil so they undo quite easily so then you can use an extension with a 10mm socket to undo it quickly (you will be there for hours doing quarter turn at a time with a spanner).
Step 4d - once the bolts are out you can move the pipe to the side a few inches. Doesn't sound like much but it's enough to allow the starter motor past it when the time comes:
Step 5 - Remove the 12mm nut holding the positive battery cable on to the starter motor solenoid. Also slide of the switch cable above it. Ignore the other nut that just goes from the solenoid to the starter body itself:
Step 6 - Remove the 3 14mm Bolts holding the starter in position. It's incredibly tight, especially on a LHD as the brake master cylinder is right in the way. So I cracked them off with a 14mm Spanner then again put the socket on an extension bar and rotated them off quickly by hand. The very bottom bolt cannot be accessed by socket (half inch drive anyway) so you need to attack this with a 14mm spanner:
Step 7 - Remove starter motor from vehicle:
Comment