AWD Transmission: - Propshaft removal - only 14 bolts removed and 1 clip undone

KJ4x4 · Nov 27th, 2013, 16:52

All,

Plenty of views to my thread on Monday. As there wasn't much feedback (any

), I thought I'd have a go. What's the worst that can happen?

So car jacked up, axle stands in place and then under the car with allen head socket and a 12mm regular socket. Removed 6 allen bolts at the front CV joint. With car in neutral (auto), you'll need to rotate them around by moving the front wheel that is off the ground. Re-insert 1 bolt a few turns - all will become clear! (My stone guard was already off the car, so another half dozen nuts if you need to remove that as well before you get started). I unclipped one of the wires under there to avoid it getting caught.

Next removed 2 bolts from the centre joint support on one side, slacken the other side and remove the 2 bolts above the exhaust that secure the centre CV mount. Now pull backwards along the propshaft to release the front CV joint.

Now to the back of the car - remember the bolt you re-inserted? Good. If you can get someone to turn the front wheel while you stay under the car, it will speed matters. Turn the raised front wheel (car still in auto) and the bolt you re-inserted will turn the prop shaft. Ta-dah! Remove the bolts (there can be 6 depending on fitment, but I only had 4). My rear joint needed a tap with a mallet and a wooden drift to release it, but it was only a tap.

I then laid along the length of the car, head towards the front and using my feet towards to rear to support the propshaft, I carefully fed it out the back of the car. Phew!

Replaced the dodgy front CV joint and as Haynes would say, assembly is the reverse procedure.

All good, other than noticing that one of the rear exhaust mounts has rusted through - a bit of welding for someone (note to self - must learn to weld!!)

So, less work than VIDA suggest and would have been even easier with a bit more clearance under the car, but enjoyed it. Hope the quick write up helps.

Cheers

Kevin

SABUK · Jan 11th, 2014, 23:09

Hi Kevin,
Curious to know, did you fit genuine Volvo part or OEM? £320 for the Volvo part seems a little steep, alternatives seem to start around £40...I realise you sometimes get what you pay for.
Thanks,
Stuart.

KJ4x4 · Jan 13th, 2014, 22:49

Quote:

Originally Posted by SABUK

Hi Kevin,
Curious to know, did you fit genuine Volvo part or OEM? £320 for the Volvo part seems a little steep, alternatives seem to start around £40...I realise you sometimes get what you pay for.
Thanks,
Stuart.

Hi Stuart,

I went after market and it was as you say £40-50. Paying 8 times the price for an item that is a known weakness (on the T6 at least), doesn't quite compute. Sometimes Volvo parts aren't the most sensible choice IMHO. Easy enough to replace now I know how to do it, so I think I'll be quids in even if I have to replace it again, but as we only do about 7k miles per year can't see it being a problem.

Hope that helps.

Kevin

bobdabuilda · Mar 23rd, 2014, 21:57

Is it possible to just release the rear joint of the propshaft to drop it aside for removal and fitting of the AOC pump to the Haldex unit?

ianski · Dec 13th, 2015, 04:44

I need to change the CV joint on my 2010 D5

Does anybody know any reason why this method wouldn't work on a D5 ?

Do I need to buy new hex bolts or can I refit them with blue loctite ?

Thanks Ian

Acer · Dec 14th, 2015, 18:17

Quote:

Originally Posted by ianski

I need to change the CV joint on my 2010 D5

Does anybody know any reason why this method wouldn't work on a D5 ?

Do I need to buy new hex bolts or can I refit them with blue loctite ?

Thanks Ian

Your awd system is different to the T6. I have heard of people using loctite as part of the repair on your sort of sleeve. It is worth speaking to Volvo as I was pleasantly surprised when they offered to cover nearly half the bill, as my car had relatively low mileage. They have a banding system and their contribution drops off progressively as mileage increases. This applies outside of warranty.

wilssp2009 · Jul 28th, 2017, 16:52

Did you have symptoms of his going ?
I'm trying to find a fault on mine at the moment where if I accelerate hard I get vibrations in low gears - ok if drive slowly -

Noticed I can pull my front part of my prop back at least 20mm from the cv joint

Nov 27th, 2013, 16:52	#1
KJ4x4 Member Last Online: Apr 4th, 2017 22:53 Join Date: May 2012 Location: South Essex	Propshaft removal - only 14 bolts removed and 1 clip undone All, Plenty of views to my thread on Monday. As there wasn't much feedback (any ), I thought I'd have a go. What's the worst that can happen? So car jacked up, axle stands in place and then under the car with allen head socket and a 12mm regular socket. Removed 6 allen bolts at the front CV joint. With car in neutral (auto), you'll need to rotate them around by moving the front wheel that is off the ground. Re-insert 1 bolt a few turns - all will become clear! (My stone guard was already off the car, so another half dozen nuts if you need to remove that as well before you get started). I unclipped one of the wires under there to avoid it getting caught. Next removed 2 bolts from the centre joint support on one side, slacken the other side and remove the 2 bolts above the exhaust that secure the centre CV mount. Now pull backwards along the propshaft to release the front CV joint. Now to the back of the car - remember the bolt you re-inserted? Good. If you can get someone to turn the front wheel while you stay under the car, it will speed matters. Turn the raised front wheel (car still in auto) and the bolt you re-inserted will turn the prop shaft. Ta-dah! Remove the bolts (there can be 6 depending on fitment, but I only had 4). My rear joint needed a tap with a mallet and a wooden drift to release it, but it was only a tap. I then laid along the length of the car, head towards the front and using my feet towards to rear to support the propshaft, I carefully fed it out the back of the car. Phew! Replaced the dodgy front CV joint and as Haynes would say, assembly is the reverse procedure. All good, other than noticing that one of the rear exhaust mounts has rusted through - a bit of welding for someone (note to self - must learn to weld!!) So, less work than VIDA suggest and would have been even easier with a bit more clearance under the car, but enjoyed it. Hope the quick write up helps. Cheers Kevin __________________ '05 XC90 T6 Executive - The Beast '84 911 Targa - The Toy

Jan 11th, 2014, 23:09	#2
SABUK New Member Last Online: Jan 13th, 2014 14:36 Join Date: Jan 2014 Location: Cambridge	Hi Kevin, Curious to know, did you fit genuine Volvo part or OEM? £320 for the Volvo part seems a little steep, alternatives seem to start around £40...I realise you sometimes get what you pay for. Thanks, Stuart.

Mar 23rd, 2014, 21:57	#4
bobdabuilda Premier Member Last Online: May 31st, 2022 11:32 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: south	Is it possible to just release the rear joint of the propshaft to drop it aside for removal and fitting of the AOC pump to the Haldex unit?

Dec 13th, 2015, 04:44	#5
ianski Junior Member Last Online: Feb 22nd, 2024 22:43 Join Date: Apr 2010 Location: buderim	I need to change the CV joint on my 2010 D5 Does anybody know any reason why this method wouldn't work on a D5 ? Do I need to buy new hex bolts or can I refit them with blue loctite ? Thanks Ian

Jul 28th, 2017, 16:52	#7
wilssp2009 willsp2009 Last Online: Jul 10th, 2023 21:52 Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: scarborough	Did you have symptoms of his going ? I'm trying to find a fault on mine at the moment where if I accelerate hard I get vibrations in low gears - ok if drive slowly - Noticed I can pull my front part of my prop back at least 20mm from the cv joint

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