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Replacing head gasket, need torque specs!

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Old Nov 30th, 2013, 13:58   #1
Paul t4
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Default Replacing head gasket, need torque specs!

Hi fellas (and ladies if there are any here)

Got myself a 2000 model s40 t4 (with the b4194t2 motor), the head gasket has blown and I'm waiting for its replacement to make its 14day voyage from Sweden to Australia. I've got the timing belt kit and new head bolts etc ready to be picked up, just waiting for the headgasket...

While I'm waiting, I have been trying to find out what the torque settings are for the head bolts, cam shaft bolts and manifold bolts. But I am not having much luck! It seems all the pictures with the answers on this forum won't load.

Also with a quick look over camshaft pulleys, I can't notice any alignment markings. Should I just find tdc of the bottom end and just make my own marks? Or am I overlooking something simple?


Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks, Paul
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Old Dec 1st, 2013, 10:17   #2
Hasse53
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Hi!

I would strongly recommend you to get the Haynes Wokshop Manual. There you can find torque settings, tightening sequences and details regarding timing belt. It is very easy to mess things up!

Answer to yuor question:
Stage 1: 20 Nm
Stage 2: 60 Nm
Stage 3: Angle tighten 130 degrees

Upper head to lower head: 17 Nm(do not use these bolts to pull parts together, threads will strip, instead use special tool)

Manifold: 20 Nm

More advice: Set engine in Top Dead Center and idenify all alignment markings, before releasing pressure on timing belt.

Hasse
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Old Dec 1st, 2013, 13:52   #3
960kg
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When doing the timing belt put a 10mm bolt in the hole by the starter motor, there is a plug in it and turn the crank gently until a web is up against the bolt.

This sets the position of the pistons as i believe they are not TDC when lining up the cam wheel markings. It is an interference engine and the valves will touch the pistons if set wrongly.

Also the cams should be locked at the rear of them by the correct tool.

The pic. also shows you the sequence.

You would be best trying to do another search on here as it has all been done again recently.
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Old Dec 13th, 2013, 07:34   #4
Paul t4
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Just to bump this up,

I've got all my parts and the head has been machined (.012" had to be taken off to remove the warp at the back of cylinders 2/3/4) but I'm at a stand still.

I can't get the 30mm nut on the front of the harmonic balancer to budge!
I've had a 1 meter breaker bar on it and still no luck either clockwise or anti clockwise
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Old Dec 13th, 2013, 11:34   #5
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Connect back up the battery checking all is safe and put the breaker bar and socket on the nut with the bar up under touching the drivers feet part of the floor and flick the ignition key so the starter motor will turn and undo the nut.

The nut needs a sharp hard knock and it comes off....steady pushes don`t work.

Good Luck
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Old Dec 13th, 2013, 18:33   #6
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When the crankshaft is aligned with it's timing marks all four pistons are inline at the half way stage in the bores.
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Old Dec 13th, 2013, 19:45   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Paul t4 View Post

Also with a quick look over camshaft pulleys, I can't notice any alignment markings. Should I just find tdc of the bottom end and just make my own marks? Or am I overlooking something simple?


Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks, Paul
Timing marks are on the plastic engine cover.

Last edited by atonap; Dec 13th, 2013 at 19:50.
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Old Dec 14th, 2013, 10:15   #8
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Guide for timing belt install:

http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=121836
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Old Dec 14th, 2013, 13:06   #9
Paul t4
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Got it done! Just man'd up and put more force into the breaker bar! Broke the front lip when it cracked loose but at least the nut came off....

I just made my own timing marks with a permanent marker, it's all lined up and I got it bang on first go, didn't even need to lock the cams in position.

Just a few more fiddly bits to go and I can put some fluids in and fire it up.


Must say it was surprisingly easy to work on this car, I'm used to small 90's Japanese hatches (Suzuki Swift GT-i's to be precise) with a lot less electronics and clutter in the engine bay.
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Old Dec 15th, 2013, 12:55   #10
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Congratulations! I've got a question for you. I have yet to change my belt and have some miles to go yet but have been reading up on it it preparation. I've read the guide on the forum which is great and I've also read the instructions in VIDA. The laater are the ones that I'm having some difficulty following and wondering if you can comment:
1) VIDA suggests that when you first find TDC before taking old belt off that you should rotate crank 1/4 turn further clockwise and then rotate it back to TDC...why is this?
2) VIDA suggests that once belt is on, you want to turn crank until the "slack" in the belt is eliminated. Slack??? How can the timing marks still all be lined up if you end up with slack?
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