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S40 / V40 '96-'04 General Forum for the Volvo S40 and V40 (Classic) Series from 1995-2004. |
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Replacing the Drop Links (Anti Roll Bar Links)Views : 7673 Replies : 83Users Viewing This Thread : |
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Sep 17th, 2012, 20:58 | #1 |
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Replacing the Drop Links (Anti Roll Bar Links)
If you are experiencing an irritating rattle when you drive over rough surfaces but no rattling noise when on smooth surfaces, then most probably, your drop links (also known as Anti Roll Bar Links) are shot and need replacing. Also you should change the drop links if the rubber boot is perished.
I had no rattle on mine, but the rubber boots/gaiters were split and it was time for them to be changed. I normally go for Volvo original parts as they last a lot longer than some of the aftermarket rubbish out there. However I have read a lot of positive comments about the MEYLE HD drop links and they come with a 4-year guarantee and cost me only £35 for both sides. The Volvo part number for the Phase 2 S/V40 is 30884179 and the MEYLE part number I bought is HD 516 060 0009/HD. They are 267mm in length. Tools that you will need: 15mm spanner T30 torx key wire brush WD40 or similar lubricant spray/penetrating oil Jack and axle stand Additional things you might need if you can't get the bolts off Blow torch Angled grinder Loosen the wheel nuts and jack the car up and support it on an axle stand Remove the wheel and you can now see the drop links (highlighted in yellow in the photos). If they are covered with dirt, use the wire brush to clean it up and spray some penetrating oil on the drop links screw threads and let them soak for a bit. Time for a cuppa or a beer. Ideally, you could spray them the day before, as it will make things easier. The drop links are held at each end by a self locking nut/bolt. In order to undo the bolt you need to use a T30 torx key in the centre of the screw thread so you restrain the screw whilst undoing the bolt. If you are lucky enough and the thread of the screw is not very rusted, you will undo the bolt easily. If the bolt starts to get hard to turn, then stop and screw it back in. Try not to force the bolt too much because you will most probably round off the torx thread, or bend the hell out of your T30 torx key like I did. If you are still struggling with it, then you can use the blow torch and if this fails too, then use the angle grinder. In my case, 3 bolts came off nice and easy but one of them bend the hell out of my Cr-Mo impact socket torx..... I had to use the angle grinder to get it off. Another method is to rip the rubber gaiter and use some mole to hold the screw while undoing the bolt. Old drop link with split gaiter Old vs new drop links Fit the top part of the drop link first using the T30 torx to secure the middle and tighten the nut You will notice that the bottom part of the drop link is a bit lower than where it's meant to go (see photo above. Place the jack under the wishbone and raise it until the bottom part of the drop link is level with the hole it is meant to go into and screw in the bolt...... Job done!!! MEYLE drop link part number (same for either side) Ruined T30 Cr-Mo impact socket torx
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
Last edited by gatos; Sep 17th, 2012 at 22:05. |
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Sep 17th, 2012, 21:57 | #2 |
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Guess what ive just been talking about changing on my T4, well done Gatos, all you need now is find me a nice new engine cover !
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Regards, pacman67 previously held: V40 TD & S40 2ltr P1,V40 P2 sport lux, V70 XC P1, XC70 P2, V70 D5 P2 and P3, V40 T4,V70R, C30 R Design. currently held: V70 P3 D5 SE LUX, XC90 MK2 Inscription Pro. |
Sep 17th, 2012, 22:07 | #3 | |
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Quote:
With regards to cover, I have one......
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Sep 17th, 2012, 22:19 | #4 |
Young Volvo driver
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Great guide as always Alex
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Sep 17th, 2012, 22:56 | #5 |
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What a P1 T4 engine cover, i was going to make one from dodo feathers and rocking horse muck.
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Regards, pacman67 previously held: V40 TD & S40 2ltr P1,V40 P2 sport lux, V70 XC P1, XC70 P2, V70 D5 P2 and P3, V40 T4,V70R, C30 R Design. currently held: V70 P3 D5 SE LUX, XC90 MK2 Inscription Pro. |
Sep 17th, 2012, 23:02 | #6 |
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yeap P1 T4
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Current car: 2002 S40 1.9D, 1992 240SE Nullius in Verba
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Sep 17th, 2012, 23:18 | #7 |
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Excellent photo-guide, Gatos: many thanks!
I think I'll be leaving mine to the garage (my back hasn't recovered from sorting out the suspension on the 740...), but at least now I know what's likely to be causing the annoying rattle.
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1989 740 GL 2.0 estate 2000 V40 2.0 (gone) 2005 Toyota Avensis 2.0 estate (gone) 2012 Ford Mondeo 2.2 TDCi estate 1999 Land Rover Discovery 2 TD5 |
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Sep 18th, 2012, 03:17 | #8 |
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Thanks for that - my mechanic still hasn't got round to doing mine! Maybe I should take a course and learn how to do it myself lol. One day.
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Sep 18th, 2012, 09:06 | #9 |
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superb guide,ive got the annoying rattle only really notice it going over speed bumps ect,think im gonna do these when i fit lowering springs
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Sep 18th, 2012, 09:52 | #10 |
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If they have not been changed before or look really rusted I would go straight for the angle grinder option as I had to do with mine, much more fun!
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