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Replacing the Drop Links (Anti Roll Bar Links)

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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 20:58   #1
gatos
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Default Replacing the Drop Links (Anti Roll Bar Links)

If you are experiencing an irritating rattle when you drive over rough surfaces but no rattling noise when on smooth surfaces, then most probably, your drop links (also known as Anti Roll Bar Links) are shot and need replacing. Also you should change the drop links if the rubber boot is perished.

I had no rattle on mine, but the rubber boots/gaiters were split and it was time for them to be changed. I normally go for Volvo original parts as they last a lot longer than some of the aftermarket rubbish out there. However I have read a lot of positive comments about the MEYLE HD drop links and they come with a 4-year guarantee and cost me only £35 for both sides. The Volvo part number for the Phase 2 S/V40 is 30884179 and the MEYLE part number I bought is HD 516 060 0009/HD. They are 267mm in length.

Tools that you will need:
15mm spanner
T30 torx key
wire brush
WD40 or similar lubricant spray/penetrating oil
Jack and axle stand

Additional things you might need if you can't get the bolts off
Blow torch
Angled grinder


Loosen the wheel nuts and jack the car up and support it on an axle stand


Remove the wheel and you can now see the drop links (highlighted in yellow in the photos). If they are covered with dirt, use the wire brush to clean it up and spray some penetrating oil on the drop links screw threads and let them soak for a bit. Time for a cuppa or a beer. Ideally, you could spray them the day before, as it will make things easier.


The drop links are held at each end by a self locking nut/bolt. In order to undo the bolt you need to use a T30 torx key in the centre of the screw thread so you restrain the screw whilst undoing the bolt.

If you are lucky enough and the thread of the screw is not very rusted, you will undo the bolt easily. If the bolt starts to get hard to turn, then stop and screw it back in. Try not to force the bolt too much because you will most probably round off the torx thread, or bend the hell out of your T30 torx key like I did.

If you are still struggling with it, then you can use the blow torch and if this fails too, then use the angle grinder. In my case, 3 bolts came off nice and easy but one of them bend the hell out of my Cr-Mo impact socket torx..... I had to use the angle grinder to get it off.
Another method is to rip the rubber gaiter and use some mole to hold the screw while undoing the bolt.









Old drop link with split gaiter



Old vs new drop links


Fit the top part of the drop link first using the T30 torx to secure the middle and tighten the nut


You will notice that the bottom part of the drop link is a bit lower than where it's meant to go (see photo above. Place the jack under the wishbone and raise it until the bottom part of the drop link is level with the hole it is meant to go into and screw in the bolt...... Job done!!!


MEYLE drop link part number (same for either side)


Ruined T30 Cr-Mo impact socket torx
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Last edited by gatos; Sep 17th, 2012 at 22:05.
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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 21:57   #2
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Guess what ive just been talking about changing on my T4, well done Gatos, all you need now is find me a nice new engine cover !
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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 22:07   #3
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Originally Posted by pacman67 View Post
Guess what ive just been talking about changing on my T4, well done Gatos, all you need now is find me a nice new engine cover !
It's a lot easier than I expected it to be and these Meyle links look pretty solid

With regards to cover, I have one......
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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 22:19   #4
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Great guide as always Alex
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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 22:56   #5
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Originally Posted by gatos View Post
It's a lot easier than I expected it to be and these Meyle links look pretty solid

With regards to cover, I have one......
What a P1 T4 engine cover, i was going to make one from dodo feathers and rocking horse muck.
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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 23:02   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pacman67 View Post
What a P1 T4 engine cover, i was going to make one from dodo feathers and rocking horse muck.
yeap P1 T4
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Old Sep 17th, 2012, 23:18   #7
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Excellent photo-guide, Gatos: many thanks!

I think I'll be leaving mine to the garage (my back hasn't recovered from sorting out the suspension on the 740...), but at least now I know what's likely to be causing the annoying rattle.
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Old Sep 18th, 2012, 03:17   #8
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Thanks for that - my mechanic still hasn't got round to doing mine! Maybe I should take a course and learn how to do it myself lol. One day.
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Old Sep 18th, 2012, 09:06   #9
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superb guide,ive got the annoying rattle only really notice it going over speed bumps ect,think im gonna do these when i fit lowering springs
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Old Sep 18th, 2012, 09:52   #10
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If they have not been changed before or look really rusted I would go straight for the angle grinder option as I had to do with mine, much more fun!
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