oil type

[tom-madbiker]

what oil should i use for a b20 with 40 thou off the head and a k cam and mildly ported and twin su and a freeflowing exhaust do i just go with the 10w 30 that the manual says also do i need full mineral oil or is a semi synthetic ok

[agent_strangelove]

I would see where your temp likes to run before I bothered to use semi. My 1800 with a bored engine and a R cam runs on the hot side. The sound proofing on the hood also seems to add about 10 degrees to the temp reading. In the summer I seem to be close to 215, which I have been told is about the upper limit of the standard oil. I run 20-50 in that car. I only do 2-3k miles a year so wear is not a huge issue.

[tom-madbiker]

i was thinking the same about a 20 50 oil its just that semi synthetic is easier to get in the uk than straight mineral oil

[oddnumber]

I use the Halfords 20w50 stuff. I only buy it because I like the metal can :)

[classicswede]

I normaly use 10 40 and not had any wear issues in thousands of miles.

[tdz840]

I would see where your temp likes to run before I bothered to use semi. My 1800 with a bored engine and a R cam runs on the hot side. The sound proofing on the hood also seems to add about 10 degrees to the temp reading. In the summer I seem to be close to 215, which I have been told is about the upper limit of the standard oil. I run 20-50 in that car. I only do 2-3k miles a year so wear is not a huge issue.

Whats the R Cam like in general use? Is it hopeless below 2K?
Im just thinking of alternatives to the D or K
Russ

[agent_strangelove]

I love that engine... I bought it from a former IPD employee that was leaving the Volvo hobby. It had issues (broken head bolts, standard head on the engine as the ported/double sprung one had a bad valve guide) but I cleaned it up and put it back together and it's been great. I'm running SU's with KD needles in them.

As for drivability on the road, I'm really happy with it. There is a bit of a lope at idle but that is about it. I have stock exhaust on the car so I am sure that I could get more acceleration out of the car at top end but the drivability on the low end might suffer a bit without the back pressure....


Chris

[tsetse1986]

I was talking to Tony Barrett recently about oil and he advised anything ending in - 50 is OK e.g. 10-50, 20-50. He advised that (unless running in!) synthetic was best, but good quality mineral oil is OK too.

Tim

[Derek UK]

Irv Gordon has always used Castrol GTX in his 1800S and he's up to about 2,850,000miles now......... 2.1 million miles since the first rebuild. The guy who rebuilt it then at 650,00 miles said recently when the engine was rebuilt this time. "The cam looked good so I put it back in". Just a couple of broken rings found this time.

[tdz840]

Irv Gordon has always used Castrol GTX in his 1800S and he's up to about 2,850,000miles now......... 2.1 million miles since the first rebuild. The guy who rebuilt it then at 650,00 miles said recently when the engine was rebuilt this time. "The cam looked good so I put it back in". Just a couple of broken rings found this time.

Thats interesting, is there a link to the guy who rebuilt the engine?
Just thought that although Irv was mostly instrumental in getting the car to this mileage the guy who rebuilt the engine has had little coverage.
Do you know his name Derek?
Russ

[222s]

What grade of GTX though? In this country, until recently it was available in 15/50 flavour, however all I've seen for over five years is 15/40. 15/50 GTX is still being produced though, as I have seen it being sold in NZ within the last 18 months. Anyone know what the supply situation is in the USA?

Chances are that Irv's car has been using 15/50, rather than 15/40, as IMHO the later is too thin. Then there's also the (lack of) ZDDP issue with modern oils..... some more info on that here:

http://www.retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=general&thread=100504&page=1

[Derek UK]

Thats interesting, is there a link to the guy who rebuilt the engine?
Just thought that although Irv was mostly instrumental in getting the car to this mileage the guy who rebuilt the engine has had little coverage.
Do you know his name Derek?
Russ

My quote is from the latest copy of "Rolling" the VCOA club magazine (USA)
The first rebuild was a long time ago and done at Volvoville on Long Island, where Irv bought the car 45 years ago, by a technician named Richie Vermont. He obviously knew his stuff. The recent rebuild done by Duane Matejka at R Sport Engineering in Pipersville, Pa. (teamsport@comcast.net).
The engine was rebored to +60 at its first rebuild, possibly unnecessarily, so this time it was bored to +.100" using specially made pistons which have Teflon coated skirts and ceramic coated crowns. Made by Bob Griffith at BHP (I assume that's the company name) and lighter than stock. Engine has been rebuilt/blue printed/balanced to racing standards. Forged stainless steel race valves also fitted. At this time of its life it does deserve the best!

[Alf ista]

What grade of GTX though? In this country, until recently it was available in 15/50 flavour, however all I've seen for over five years is 15/40. 15/50 GTX is still being produced though, as I have seen it being sold in NZ within the last 18 months. Anyone know what the supply situation is in the USA?


I get the Castrol Classic 20 w 50. Comes in the metal tin as well! Have no problem getting it, just get it off the local Castrol dealer who sells to the trade. Then I use a ZDDP additive for a hit of zinc.

[Derek UK]

Name dropping here... I spoke to Irv on Sunday at the Essen car show. A very friendly guy. He said he's always used GTX 20-50 but swaps over to 15-40 when the temperature drops. He lives on Long Island but is away a lot. (grin) He changes the oil and filter himself every 6000km/3750m and plans to do 7000km/4375m a month until he gets to 3 million miles.

[swedishandgerman]

This is picking up a very old thread, but I just went to order a load of oil and on Alfista's recommendation, some ZDDP. Just went to buy some on Ebay (I couldn't find it anywhere else) and I noticed on the seller's notes that Millers Classic oil still offers high ZDDP

On Opie Oils: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-68912-millers-oils-classic-performance-20w-50-formerly-classic-20w-50.aspx

I notice it says on the label "Contains high ZDDP Level"

[Alf ista]

I have heard Millers is good actually. I know some guys in the American car scene use it.

[swedishandgerman]

I sent an email to Millers tech enquiries to find out their recommendation for a B20

They recommend Millers Classic Performance 20w50 which has 1,000ppm ZDDP

(I've just spent £120 on oil for my fleet of bangers)

[Alf ista]

I sent an email to Millers tech enquiries to find out their recommendation for a B20

They recommend Millers Classic Performance 20w50 which has 1,000ppm ZDDP

(I've just spent £120 on oil for my fleet of bangers)

Well done that man! I was using Catrol up to now but might chance the Millers. I like the fact they went to the effort to put ZDDP in:thumbs_up:

[Burdekin]

I use the Halfords Classic Motor Oil, was told it was a very good oil and also contains ZDDP and zinc. £19 for 5litres but a mate has a Halfords card so got a good discount which is always nice.

It is recommended to change the oil (and filter) every 2 to 3000m I believe and if you do that it should keep things well sorted inside.

[tom-madbiker]

i use morris oils golden film 15 50 i use morris oil in all my classic vehicles now

[222s]

I use the Halfords Classic Motor Oil, was told it was a very good oil and also contains ZDDP and zinc.


Ditto. Also, my understanding is that all the 'classic' oils contain the right amount of ZDDP, whereas modern oils of the same grade probably won't.

[swedishandgerman]

This is JUST my understanding and based on comparing the technical data of the Millers Classic Performance 20w50, Castrol Classic 20w50 (which I think is the same as Halfords) and Morris Golden Film 20w50, so this could be a load of old trap

Firstly, Millers and Castrol state that they contain ZDDP. I can't find any reference to Halfords Classic containing ZDDP, but on my conclusion that it is re-branded Castrol, I guess it does. On this note, the fact that it already contains ZDDP and there is an optimum amount, over which the effects are reduced, I wouldn't add ZDDP out of a bottle. I would just add ZDDP out of a bottle if I was using an oil for modern engines - zinc isn't added to modern engines oils because it ruins cats

In the Tech Data of Morris oils, it gives zinc in % wt (instead of ppm) - this is zinc, not ZDDP. ZDDP is different from Zinc in that the DDP bit is a synthetically developed chain developed to improve the way the zinc mixes in oil and spreads evenly. The result is the zinc is dissolved well throughout the entirity of the oil. It is the zinc that reduces wear, the DDP does nothing but spread it, so to speak. From the tech data for Morris oil, I presume the zinc content refers to ZDDP, otherwise it wouldn't mix. HOWEVER, my understanding is that Morris oils contain low dispersing agents and detergents to resemble old fashioned oils for cars with inferior oil filtering, like Beetles with wire strainers or even cars with no filter at all. These rely on collecting debris on ledges throughout the engine while the engine is running and the oils is pumped around - when stopped, it all collects in the sump. Oils with detergents and dispersing agents dissolve the crud which is then collected in the good quality paper filter. This is just my thought, but B18 and B20's have good filters. I have always used Morris oils in Beetles, it's just that this time I have ordered a ton of Millers oil and have gone for Millers equivalent of Morris 30 and will use the same in my '53 Citroen which has no filter. I know for sure it has ZDDP

[swedishandgerman]

BTW, Halfords Cards - they're supposedly for people in the trade and I managed to get one because I still had a business card from my last job. However, my mate got one by flashing his "Technical Researcher" business card in front of them - his job has nothing to do with cars

Halfords - fantastic for tools. No quibble lifetime guarantee on tools. I bought a £5 foot pump yonks ago. They last for about 12 months and when they break, Halfords replace it. Open till 8pm and the trade card gives good discount