Vag-com

[artiedtke]

Can VAG-COM be used to set the dynamic pump timing on the d5252t in an 850tdi. My mechanic says he can't get it to work ? Can it only be done with vol-fcr ?

[skye740]

As far as I understand, it can only be done with Vol-fcr, as its specific to ecu etc.

[outnumbered]

it can only be done with VOLFCR, or any dealer or BOSCH.
MIKE

[The Hooded Claw]

Wot Mike & skye said ......................... Only Vol FCR can be used due to ECU Specific issues ..

But I do understand where your coming from as the D5252T IS a VAG engine But thats ALL IT IS "AN ENGINE" Everything else is Volvo Specific


Keith

[artiedtke]

it can only be done with VOLFCR, or any dealer or BOSCH.
MIKE

Dealer use a VCT2000 right ?? BOSCH ?? Care to elaborate please ??

Wot Mike & skye said ......................... Only Vol FCR can be used due to ECU Specific issues ..

But I do understand where your coming from as the D5252T IS a VAG engine But thats ALL IT IS "AN ENGINE" Everything else is Volvo Specific


Keith

Spot on Keith, VAG's Engine, Volvo's ECU. Vol-FCR has to be a specific version, > 1.5 to do the timing IIRC ???

That explains why VAG-COM is not working then.

Basically my mechanics changed all the belts, but cannot do the dynamic timing as he doesent have the software. However the car runs and starts hot or cold perfectly fine, and drives normally, but apparently throws a fault code saying timing is out of spec once shes warmed up.

How much should I be looking at to have the timing set ??

Apparently Volvo want £160, a VAG indi (not sure if he will just have VAG-COM or BOSCH) wants around £120, reasonable ???

(P.S. just had belts, tensioners, rollers, cam seal (which involved sump gasket) and water pump done for just shy of £650).

[outnumbered]

if its MSA 15.7 then VCT 2000 will not read it,volvo should still have the old style code reader, if its MSA 15.8 then VCT will read it. BOSCH are diesel specialist and should have the equipment to read both.VOLFCR version 1.7.2 will do the pump timing for you the one you have said is the earlier version which will not , these are the crack copys that you get on the bay.
mike

[outnumbered]

yes £120 is about reasonable they can be a pig to get right .
mike

[artiedtke]

yes £120 is about reasonable they can be a pig to get right .
mike

What is involved Mike ???

AFAIK vol-fcr will just tell me the degrees of the timing, if its out, how exactly is it adjusted to bring it within spec ???

Apparently the engine needs to be running, is this just to read the value, or to do the adjustment, or both or vice versa ???

Is it dooable for the DIY with basic mechanical skills or best left to the pros ??

[outnumbered]

, there are two tensioners on the belt, the bottom one is used for the adjustment. slacken of the nut but not too lose so that you can move the pulley backwards and forwards with the allen key in the slot, with the engine running and up to the test specs adjust the bottom pulley backwards or forwards and watch the pump timing degrees move on VOLFCR 1.7.2 when you have it to the correct setting switch off and then tighten the pulley nut.
it is do able without VOLFCR but it can take ages or not at all, its fine tuning the belt tension so that its within the peramiters that it should be, remember that if you try and do it without the test kit if you lose the setting the car may not start.
mike

[outnumbered]

this is what it looks like

[artiedtke]

, there are two tensioners on the belt, the bottom one is used for the adjustment. slacken of the nut but not too lose so that you can move the pulley backwards and forwards with the allen key in the slot, with the engine running and up to the test specs adjust the bottom pulley backwards or forwards and watch the pump timing degrees move on VOLFCR 1.7.2 when you have it to the correct setting switch off and then tighten the pulley nut.

is that all there is to it ???

how come places want nearly £120 then, if it only sounds like a 5 minute job ???

I am consemplating having it done for me if i can find somewhere, or buying a copy of vol-fcr and doing it myself with a usb VAG-COM cable ? At least then I can do it again if need be.

I've heard reports that this cable works with vol-fcr ??

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/330399696070?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649


it is do able without VOLFCR but it can take ages or not at all, its fine tuning the belt tension so that its within the peramiters that it should be, remember that if you try and do it without the test kit if you lose the setting the car may not start.
mike

Yes i understand this.

[outnumbered]

yes that is all there is to it.a bit steep i no but not many people have the kit,if it was me i would buy the programme and have a bash yourself, then when you get rid of the car you can still sell the programme on, but just to make you aware that the activation code you get with VOLFCR is for that laptop. if you then want to transfer it say to another you have to deactivate it which gives you a code you then have to go to the supplier to get another activation code this stops copying.
mike

[artiedtke]

yes that is all there is to it.a bit steep i no but not many people have the kit,if it was me i would buy the programme and have a bash yourself, then when you get rid of the car you can still sell the programme on, but just to make you aware that the activation code you get with VOLFCR is for that laptop. if you then want to transfer it say to another you have to deactivate it which gives you a code you then have to go to the supplier to get another activation code this stops copying.
mike

Yes a lot of things are like this now (I'm an IT professional).

I am very tempted to have a go myself.

Have you any pics of the pulley where the adjustment takes place (car is still at garage so cant peek).

Also what kind of cable are you interfacing to vol-fcr with ?? I have just edited the above post, would that vag-com cable work ??

I notice that there are various versions of vol-fcr too, one for FTDI chip, one for serial and one for VAG-COM cable, what is the difference between the FTDI and VAG-COM one, AFAIK the link to the vag-com cable above is an FTDI chip based one ?

Also when you buy a copy do you get all 3 or do you have to choose one specific one ?

[The Hooded Claw]

I wish to god you were NEARER to me (Blackpool) ...Bri @Jumpleads would do it fer NOWT ... as Mike said 5 Min Job (if you go & switch the kettle on in between setting it up ) .....


NOTE********

The D5252T engine only reaches TDC (top Dead Centre) every SECOND revolution if you dont get it at TDC you'll be a Country MILE Away on the timing .... (well 180 Degrees Actually but you know what I mean )

[artiedtke]

I wish to god you were NEARER to me (Blackpool) ...Bri @Jumpleads would do it fer NOWT ... as Mike said 5 Min Job (if you go & switch the kettle on in between setting it up ) .....


NOTE********

The D5252T engine only reaches TDC (top Dead Centre) every SECOND revolution if you dont get it at TDC you'll be a Country MILE Away on the timing .... (well 180 Degrees Actually but you know what I mean )

I've read your other posts mate, yes ive noticed lol.

However it cannot be a Country MILE away as the car starts and runs on the key.... or can it ?????

[The Hooded Claw]

I've read your other posts mate, yes ive noticed lol.

However it cannot be a Country MILE away as the car starts and runs on the key.... or can it ?????

No yer a couple of degrees out ... NO MORE certainly .....

gimme 5 Mins i'll ask welsh Dragon on MY forum He'll know of somewhere close by you

http://www.volvovehiclesclub.org.uk


Keith

[artiedtke]

No yer a couple of degrees out ... NO MORE certainly .....

gimme 5 Mins i'll ask welsh Dragon on MY forum He'll know of somewhere close by you

http://www.volvovehiclesclub.org.uk


Keith

The engine management light comes on when shes upto temp though complaining about timing, so it obviously knows its out.

Nice another forum i didnt know about....

[outnumbered]

the leads i am not sure about drop a pm to Chris Rogers or ring
http://www.ilexa.co.uk/.
they will tell you all i do is plug it in and switch on.
hope these pics are of some use .
mike

[The Hooded Claw]

HANG ON ...... I KNOW Who'll help yer out (Classic Sweade) Dia he's on Anglesey (Not a million miles away) ... Hes Bound to have a Vol FCR at his gaff ..

Do A member search for "ClassicSwede" .... Then send him a PM That'll get yer sorted

If he aint got a Vol FCR He'll know someone who has .. in your/his local area


Keith

[outnumbered]

if the manegement light is on you will not be able to do the pump timing .
mike

[artiedtke]

if the manegement light is on you will not be able to do the pump timing .
mike

how come ???

[outnumbered]

i new you would ask that. lol
if i remember if any codes are stored on the engine side the programme will not let you run the pump test i could be wrong if you give Derick a call he will confirm this at ilexa.
mike

[artiedtke]

i new you would ask that. lol
if i remember if any codes are stored on the engine side the programme will not let you run the pump test i could be wrong if you give Derick a call he will confirm this at ilexa.
mike

lol right...

So this is a bit of a catch 22 situation. does this mean the belt will need to be adjusted 'manually' first ???

Is there any chance that i would need to move the belt a tooth or something as I have heard of people having to do this too ??? Any chance it coult be way way out ??

Is the adjuster on the bottom wheel infinetly adjustable, i.e. if its 12 degree out say will it let me adjust it that far back to 0.2 or whatever ???

[The Hooded Claw]

i new you would ask that. lol
if i remember if any codes are stored on the engine side the programme will not let you run the pump test i could be wrong if you give Derick a call he will confirm this at ilexa.
mike

I THINK yer half right Mike ... I THINK as the code IS Pump Timing Adrift it WILL let you do a re-set on it .. I'm SURE Bri did mine last Nov & he said the same but then discovered as it WAS the Timing that threw the code it WILL let you re-set it (to Clear the code) ....

MMMmmmmm!!!!!!.... Just thinkin now .... I MAY be wrong there & Bri Cleared the code FIRST then re-set the timing


Keith

[artiedtke]

I THINK yer half right Mike ... I THINK as the code IS Pump Timing Adrift it WILL let you do a re-set on it .. I'm SURE Bri did mine last Nov & he said the same but then discovered as it WAS the Timing that threw the code it WILL let you re-set it (to Clear the code) ....

MMMmmmmm!!!!!!.... Just thinkin now .... I MAY be wrong there & Bri Cleared the code FIRST then re-set the timing


Keith

Was thinking the same, can the code just not be cleared then get on with setting the timing. Question is, how long does one have until the code appears again to do the adjustment. After all the engine is running while all this is going on.

[outnumbered]

as i said i could be wrong on that so best to check .if the belt has been set up correclty you will not have to move it a tooth,the pulley you can move either way with the engine running and adjusting the pulley without the diagnostic kit the engine will tell you if you are going the correct way, with VOLFCR with the engine running and moving the bottom pulley you will see the graph move depending on which way you move it will dictate which way the graph is going. if the belt has been set up properly you will not have to move it far hopefully, this is why they charge what they do because it can be a right pain in the you no where if its way out or the belt is not proprly timed to the marks.
mike

[outnumbered]

it will still throw the code if and when you get to the test standards.
the last one i did there was a code on the engine side and it would not let me do the pump timing , now it may as Keith says let you clear the code but i doubt it the only other way is to set it manually to get it somewhere near. Clan may be along and tell you what is required.
mike

[artiedtke]

Have emailed ilexa for some info. Hopefully they will get back to me in a couple days.

I think you have possibly tempted me to give it a try myself. I'll wait until i pick up the car and make the decision.

P.S. What size allenkey is the adjuster ???

[outnumbered]

Was thinking the same, can the code just not be cleared then get on with setting the timing. Question is, how long does one have until the code appears again to do the adjustment. After all the engine is running while all this is going on.
if the car is already at the test standard before you try the test it will save you having to wait, depends when the code is being thrown but i would suspect that it is when it reaches the test standard,
mike

[artiedtke]

if the car is already at the test standard before you try the test it will save you having to wait, depends when the code is being thrown but i would suspect that it is when it reaches the test standard,
mike

Yeh i think your right, my mechanic said, when its fully warmed up it throws the code.

[outnumbered]

have a read at this and if that's the code you have it seems that you can set the pump timing on VOLFCR.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=133220
mike

[artiedtke]

have a read at this and if that's the code you have it seems that you can set the pump timing on VOLFCR.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=133220
mike

My mechanic is going to print out the code its returning. Have just ordered a VAG-COM cable based on FTDI chip, hopefully this will work with VOL-FCR.

Tempted to buy a copy as it will be an investment of some kind seeing as this is quite unique to these cars.

[outnumbered]

its going to cost you either way . with VOLFCR you can read the codes as well
mike

[artiedtke]

its going to cost you either way .
mike

certainly is, if i get a copy of vol-fcr though I have other features/utilities at my disposal then also so...

[skye740]

It's a shame that ilexia full version cannot be loaned from member to member, (would there be any way to get a license for all of us with VAG engines here :(?)

I have that same lead artiedtke, but I have with a c o p y version of above but without timing setup :( it at least lets you reset serivce light etc.

[outnumbered]

i suppose the only way round it is a cheopo laptop and a group purchase for one copy.
mike

[The Hooded Claw]

i suppose the only way round it is a cheopo laptop and a group purchase for one copy.
mike

TBH Mike ... thats what Me & Andy Thano have done ...

[artiedtke]

TBH Mike ... thats what Me & Andy Thano have done ...

Alright if your in the vicinity I suppose. Don't fancy posting a laptop and posting it back just to use vol-fcr !?! lol

have a read at this and if that's the code you have it seems that you can set the pump timing on VOLFCR.
http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=133220
mike

The code being thrown is "2Fh Start-of-injection control deviation" when the engine has warmed up, a quick Google leads me to the following page which seems to suggest that its definitely pump timing related. This is off a BOSCH ESI[tronic] KTS670 machine.

http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/17656/P1248/004680

However car was stone cold when I picked her up this morning, and she started at the turn of the key, pump timing too advanced i guess ?

Also as a side note, I had the rear oil seal replaced with the cambelt job, so the sump had to be removed to get the oil pump off. My mechanic has filled with fresh oil but didn't change the filter !!! Worth putting a new filter on and pre-filling with fresh oil (just the filter not the whole sump) ?? It was due a change anyway and had done approx 7000 miles.

[artiedtke]

I have that same lead artiedtke, but I have with a c o p y version of above but without timing setup :( it at least lets you reset serivce light etc.

Version 1.5 I guess. Works ok with that then ????

[artiedtke]

Still have not had a chance to sort this out despite me now having a copy of Vol-fcr to adjust the timing.

Hopefully will have a play tomorrow if the weather is nice.

Just worked out that my MPG has dropped to around 30 !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[artiedtke]

Right, had a chance to have a play today.

First off the code being thrown was certainly the one Banksy1953 said.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19028071/DTC.jpg

Once cleared and with engine up to spec I was able to read the timing, it was around 7.5 degrees out, this is why the code was being thrown, however I never had any problems starting hot or cold.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19028071/Timing75.jpg

I proceeded to adjust the bottom tensioner on the belt setup, firstly i adjusted it 'upwards' this made the timing worse (around 9.5 degrees) and slight problems starting too.

I re-adjusted the timing 'downwards' as far as it would go, and the result is 4.9 degrees, i cannot adjust it any further than this, the bottom adjuster is fully adjusted.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19028071/Timing49.jpg

So I had a play with the top tensioner, but it seems I cannot adjust this much either. It seems to me like the top tensioner had been installed incorrectly ??

If you look at the following photo, the top tensioner shows the 13mm bolt on the left and the 6mm hex key slot on the right, whereas VADIS shows the 13mm bolt on the right and the hex slot on the left. Has the tensioner possibly been installed incorrectly by my mechanic ??

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19028071/DSCF2594_rsz.jpg

VADIS representation...
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19028071/VADIS_TopTensioner.jpg

A better angle shows the static datum point and the variable point, below these at around 9 o'clock is another lug which looks like it is locked into a slot in the pump housing/bracket. Should this be in this position ??

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19028071/DSCF2595_rsz.jpg

Another angle, this shows the rear of the top tensioner. I cannot adjust the variable pointer towards the right very much as the metal of the static datum point seems to be in the way.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19028071/DSCF2596_rsz.jpg

Anyhow this adjustment has stopped my EML light coming on, but its still not within spec.

Any help would be greatly appreciated guys.

Al.

EDIT: Is it possible that I need to adjust the belt by one tooth then use the bottom adjuster to adjust it out ????

[Clan]

you can do adjustments on the cam pulley over the gearbox which drives the pump , it is a taper fit , so loosen the pulley bolt a bit , tap the pulley to loosen the taper and make the smallest movment you can and nip up the pulley bolt again .. Once you see which way to move to suit what you need it will be easier , but you may need 5 or 6 attempts to get it right .

[artiedtke]

you can do adjustments on the cam pulley over the gearbox which drives the pump , it is a taper fit , so loosen the pulley bolt a bit , tap the pulley to loosen the taper and make the smallest movment you can and nip up the pulley bolt again .. Once you see which way to move to suit what you need it will be easier , but you may need 5 or 6 attempts to get it right .

Clan,

When i loosen the top pulley is it quite easy to loosen the taper. Also is there a chance that everything will slip out of place ???

It seems to me that this is what needs to be done in order to correct it. Looks like the pulley needs to be turned clockwise to retard the timing ???

Also what is the torque spec for the top bolt ???

Cheers.

[Clan]

Clan,

When i loosen the top pulley is it quite easy to loosen the taper. Also is there a chance that everything will slip out of place ???

It seems to me that this is what needs to be done in order to correct it. Looks like the pulley needs to be turned clockwise to retard the timing ???

Also what is the torque spec for the top bolt ???

Cheers.

A sharp tap with a drift near the centre of the pulley should loosen it . ( from the engine side outwards ) Yes everything can move ( not slip ) out of place if you are a bit careless but do everything slowly and carefully and dont loosen the main bolt much or move the gear far .
If you move the top of the pulley towards the front of the car it will advance the timing and vice versa .

The pulley bolt is 160 nm ...

[artiedtke]

A sharp tap with a drift near the centre of the pulley should loosen it . ( from the engine side outwards ) Yes everything can move ( not slip ) out of place if you are a bit careless but do everything slowly and carefully and dont loosen the main bolt much or move the gear far .
If you move the top of the pulley towards the front of the car it will advance the timing and vice versa .

The pulley bolt is 160 nm ...

Clan,

Thanks for this, it has given me a bit more enthusiasm to have a go myself now, i was going to give up and go to a diesel specialist.

As for loosening the bolt, will a half inch ratchet be enough or will a breaker bar be required, will the cam not turn when trying to loosen it ??? Leave the car in gear ?? Also for the record, its a standard bolt yes not a reverse thread one ???

When you say from the engine side outwards you mean from the back of the pulley, seems like there is very limited space to strike a mallett there ?? If i am looking directly at the top pulley from the airbox side of the car, i need to strike from behind ??

Yes the timing is currently around 5 degrees too advanced, tightening the idler at the bottom makes it worse, around 9 or 10 degrees too advanced. So by my reckoning, i need to move the pulley around half a tooth towards the bulkhead which will retard the timing by about 10 degrees making it -5 then adjust the bottom idler to cancel out the -5 to what it should be - well thats the plan.

Many thanks Clan.

[Clan]

Clan,

Thanks for this, it has given me a bit more enthusiasm to have a go myself now, i was going to give up and go to a diesel specialist.

As for loosening the bolt, will a half inch ratchet be enough or will a breaker bar be required, will the cam not turn when trying to loosen it ??? Leave the car in gear ?? Also for the record, its a standard bolt yes not a reverse thread one ???

When you say from the engine side outwards you mean from the back of the pulley, seems like there is very limited space to strike a mallett there ?? If i am looking directly at the top pulley from the airbox side of the car, i need to strike from behind ??

Yes the timing is currently around 5 degrees too advanced, tightening the idler at the bottom makes it worse, around 9 or 10 degrees too advanced. So by my reckoning, i need to move the pulley around half a tooth towards the bulkhead which will retard the timing by about 10 degrees making it -5 then adjust the bottom idler to cancel out the -5 to what it should be - well thats the plan.

Many thanks Clan.

Yes from the back of the pulley ( cam cover side ) where ever you can access .
You will need a long 1/2" squeare socket bar 2 foot long to make it easy , the correct way to hold the pulley is to hold it with the volvo tool so you push on the tool and pull on youir breaker bar .. But the engine never seems to want to turn if you havent the tool , a sharp tug to loosen it , and it is a normal threaded bolt .
Remember a 10 degree rotation of this pulley is 20 degrees at the crankshaft! so very smallest movments are needed .. the figures you see on the diagnostic equiment are crankshaft degrees .

[artiedtke]

Remember a 10 degree rotation of this pulley is 20 degrees at the crankshaft! so very smallest movments are needed .. the figures you see on the diagnostic equiment are crankshaft degrees .

I remember reading on here somewhere that if you move the pump belt by one tooth that is about 10 degrees ????

EDIT: Here http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=133220&page=2 about half way down by PNuT....

So if i move the cam by about half a tooth that should be around 5 degrees ??

[Clan]

I remember reading on here somewhere that if you move the pump belt by one tooth that is about 10 degrees ????

EDIT: Here http://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=133220&page=2 about half way down by PNuT....

So if i move the cam by about half a tooth that should be around 5 degrees ??

It depends how many teeth there are .
count the teeth , divide 360 by the number of teeth then multiply by 2 to get crank degrees .

[artiedtke]

It depends how many teeth there are .
count the teeth , divide 360 by the number of teeth then multiply by 2 to get crank degrees .

360 / 33 = 10.90909 * 2 = 21.81818

So yeah about 20 degrees per tooth, so if i retard by around half a tooth should be about 10 degrees, then i can fine tune using the idler.

Will have a play on the weekend hopefully, just hope it starts afterwards as it is the only car i have !!!!!

What is the best way of adjusting the pulley after loosening it, turning the pump flywheel ????

[Clan]

360 / 33 = 10.90909 * 2 = 21.81818

So yeah about 20 degrees per tooth, so if i retard by around half a tooth should be about 10 degrees, then i can fine tune using the idler.

Will have a play on the weekend hopefully, just hope it starts afterwards as it is the only car i have !!!!!

What is the best way of adjusting the pulley after loosening it, turning the pump flywheel ????

so that's sorted then ;)
I use the holding tool which holds the pulley when you undo the bolt , it has a long handle and you can move the pulley very finely with it , might be worth making up something to do it that way .. The handle on the drawing is a lot longer than shown .

[artiedtke]

so that's sorted then ;)
I use the holding tool which holds the pulley when you undo the bolt , it has a long handle and you can move the pulley very finely with it , might be worth making up something to do it that way .. The handle on the drawing is a lot longer than shown .

Right so when the bolt is loosened the pulley is still quite tight then, but can be moved with some leverage ??? Or could it be moved by hand after loosening it with a hammer ???

[Clan]

No , when the bolt is loosened the pulley is still tight on the camshaft taper , you need to tap the pulley to release it before thinking of turning it a tiny amount . Once it "springs " off the taper it is very easy to turn .. hence don't loosen the big bolt too much then the pulley cant spring far and loose its original position .

[artiedtke]

No , when the bolt is loosened the pulley is still tight on the camshaft taper , you need to tap the pulley to release it before thinking of turning it a tiny amount . Once it "springs " off the taper it is very easy to turn .. hence don't loosen the big bolt too much then the pulley cant spring far and loose its original position .

Yep as I thought.

If i mark the pulley and belt on the first tooth at the top that has full contact with the sprocket, i can reset to a pretty closely where it was i hope. (ignore if you dont know what the heck i am on about here).

Just as long as the entire belt doesent jump off then im in **** i think.

EDIT: Stupid question but i guess after each adjustment i will need to fully torque the top bolt to 160nm before firing her up ??

[tickman]

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19028071/DTC.jpg

Once cleared and with engine up to spec I was able to read the timing, it was around 7.5 degrees out, this is why the code was being thrown, however I never had any problems starting hot or cold.


In the picture did it always have the 'timing' and 'read live data' boxesall the time? just wondered as the one I have borrowed doesn't have these! Just wondered as I was told it was the full version but probable just the demo.

Also I would get the bolt good and tight before trying after your adjustment.

John

[tickman]

I found my own answer by re reading page one! It is not the up to date version!
Never mind :)

[artiedtke]

I found my own answer by re reading page one! It is not the up to date version!
Never mind :)

haha lol, yep this is the latest 1.7.4 (i think) version which i recently paid one hundred and thirty english pounds for....

[BillB]

haha lol, yep this is the latest 1.7.4 (i think) version which i recently paid one hundred and thirty english pounds for....

Hi, can't help thinking you could have got a dice for that which would work on any Volvo.....

[outnumbered]

Hi, can't help thinking you could have got a dice for that which would work on any Volvo.....
he has 15.7 Bill Dice will not do the pump timing.
mike

[artiedtke]

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/19028071/-0.2.png

What a PITA it was too. Had to adjust top pulley about 3 or 4 times and just by stroke of luck got it here.

Thanks guys for all your help.

[artiedtke]

Also as a followup chaps...

When I undid the top pulley nut it was pretty easy to undo using a 2ft breaker bar.

I have torqued the bolt back up to 160nm as per specs.

It just doesent seem sufficient to hold that pulley in place there.

Have these been known to slip before ??

Is it reccomended to use thread-lock on the pulley bolt ????

[tickman]

Also as a followup chaps...

When I undid the top pulley nut it was pretty easy to undo using a 2ft breaker bar.
...........

It just doesent seem sufficient to hold that pulley in place there.
........................



Nice work and a good set of numbers :)

With the pulley being on a taper it should be fine as you have torqued it up to spec.

Does it go any better/ better MPG or just too early to tell!

John

[artiedtke]

Nice work and a good set of numbers :)

With the pulley being on a taper it should be fine as you have torqued it up to spec.

Does it go any better/ better MPG or just too early to tell!

John

Seems to run the same as before, no difference in power delivery etc. although I've not yet given it the foot.

What I have noticed though is the MPG on the computer seems to have increased by about 4 MPG, from 43 to around 47 - 48 ish.

[tickman]

What I have noticed though is the MPG on the computer seems to have increased by about 4 MPG, from 43 to around 47 - 48 ish.


That is a good result should recover the cost of the software in a matter of..............................days / weeks / months / years* :)

* delete as necessary!

John.

[artiedtke]

Seems to run the same as before, no difference in power delivery etc. although I've not yet given it the foot.

What I have noticed though is the MPG on the computer seems to have increased by about 4 MPG, from 43 to around 47 - 48 ish.

Power seems to be lower down on the rev range now (just after the turbo comes in at 2k) whereas before with the timing too advanced by about 5 degrees the power was nearer the 3000 rpm mark. That's the only thing ive noticed today on my daily 60 mile commute.

That is a good result should recover the cost of the software in a matter of..............................days / weeks / months / years* :)

* delete as necessary!

John.

About a year or so possibly.

[Chris_Rogers]

That is a good result should recover the cost of the software in a matter of..............................days / weeks / months / years* :)

* delete as necessary!

John.

I expect he has already saved the software cost, by being able to do the job himself.

The mpg increase is an ongoing bonus.

[artiedtke]

I expect he has already saved the software cost, by being able to do the job himself.

The mpg increase is an ongoing bonus.

Very true Chris. A VAG indi wanted £130 ish to carry out the same job, so the extra functions of VOL-FCR I can now use are a bonus, along with the experience I have of carrying out the job myself.

I am planning on putting a How-To together when I have time as there seems to be very little info out there on how this is actually done.

[tickman]

I am planning on putting a How-To together when I have time as there seems to be very little info out there on how this is actually done.

Don't forget that without pics people will still be confused ;)

John.