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ooohR
Jun 23rd, 2014, 20:26
Hi, all.

I have a 2008 V50 RDesign that won't start. I bought the car as a non runner for myself to fix and use as my main vehicle.

When I 1st got the car the battery was dead, not even 1 volt! So I tried to charge it in the car but the charger wouldn't charge it as it sensed the battery was faulty. I pulled the battery out of the car and saw why. All the sides on the battery were bloated out. It looked like the original from new. Bought a new battery and fitted it.
Next I got an immobiliser warning on the instrument display. I managed to cure that by doing the lock and unlock 5 times sat in the car.
Next the starter wouldn't crank. I traced that to the ignition switch contacts being faulty after removing it from the dashboard dismantling it and multimetering the contacts. gave them a clean, fitted it back to the car and now it cranks the engine fine. But still not starting.
Next I got someone to plug it in to the diagnostics and found loads of faults unsurprisingly. He cleared them all and we tried to start the engine again, no start. He re read the diagnostics and it came up with: code 0336 Speed/reference-mark signal faulty. On cranking the engine there is no RPM increase on the rev counter or on the diagnostics RPM signal. I ordered a Crankshaft Position Sensor and fitted it. Still a no start!
Ok I thought maybe the sensor isn't getting a signal to read? So I removed the crankshaft pulley and then the sensor ring. It looks fine, no marks or bends, it runs straight on the crankshaft. So I gave it a clean. Some rusty dust had accumilated in the corners of it. Great I thought maybe that's corrupting the signal. Fitted it all back together. Still a no start.
I've checked all the wiring from both the crankshaft and camshaft sensors to the ECU with a multimeter. All ok.
I've removed the glove box unplugged the multifunction unit and replugged it all back up. Still a non runner.
I've checked all the fuses and relays in both under the bonnet and inside the car. No fault.
I've removed the throttle body and checked its movement. It doesn't stick but I've cleaned it anyway. Still a no start.
I've checked the cam timing. No fault.
On cranking the engine sound as though it has enough compression.
On cranking the fuel pressure is roughy 16-20 Bar pressure.

Ok ya swine, now you're gonna get it! BRAKE CLEANER!!
Swallow that.

I sprayed it into the inlet through one of the sensor holes on the throttle body and it fired up. I ran it for 10 seconds on the nasty stuff before I started to feel sorry for the engine and stopped spraying. In the time it was running it sounded mechanicly normal, oil pressure light went out. The rev counter didn't come to life, the engine symbol remained lit.

I'm out of ideas now, is there anyone out there who may be able to help or point me in a sensible direction to try next?

Cheers, Em.

Clan
Jun 23rd, 2014, 20:31
Hi, all.

I have a 2008 V50 RDesign that won't start. I bought the car as a non runner for myself to fix and use as my main vehicle.

When I 1st got the car the battery was dead, not even 1 volt! So I tried to charge it in the car but the charger wouldn't charge it as it sensed the battery was faulty. I pulled the battery out of the car and saw why. All the sides on the battery were bloated out. It looked like the original from new. Bought a new battery and fitted it.
Next I got an immobiliser warning on the instrument display. I managed to cure that by doing the lock and unlock 5 times sat in the car.
Next the starter wouldn't crank. I traced that to the ignition switch contacts being faulty after removing it from the dashboard dismantling it and multimetering the contacts. gave them a clean, fitted it back to the car and now it cranks the engine fine. But still not starting.
Next I got someone to plug it in to the diagnostics and found loads of faults unsurprisingly. He cleared them all and we tried to start the engine again, no start. He re read the diagnostics and it came up with: code 0336 Speed/reference-mark signal faulty. On cranking the engine there is no RPM increase on the rev counter or on the diagnostics RPM signal. I ordered a Crankshaft Position Sensor and fitted it. Still a no start!
Ok I thought maybe the sensor isn't getting a signal to read? So I removed the crankshaft pulley and then the sensor ring. It looks fine, no marks or bends, it runs straight on the crankshaft. So I gave it a clean. Some rusty dust had accumilated in the corners of it. Great I thought maybe that's corrupting the signal. Fitted it all back together. Still a no start.
I've checked all the wiring from both the crankshaft and camshaft sensors to the ECU with a multimeter. All ok.
I've removed the glove box unplugged the multifunction unit and replugged it all back up. Still a non runner.
I've checked all the fuses and relays in both under the bonnet and inside the car. No fault.
I've removed the throttle body and checked its movement. It doesn't stick but I've cleaned it anyway. Still a no start.
I've checked the cam timing. No fault.
On cranking the engine sound as though it has enough compression.
On cranking the fuel pressure is roughy 16-20 Bar pressure.

Ok ya swine, now you're gonna get it! BRAKE CLEANER!!
Swallow that.

I sprayed it into the inlet through one of the sensor holes on the throttle body and it fired up. I ran it for 10 seconds on the nasty stuff before I started to feel sorry for the engine and stopped spraying. In the time it was running it sounded mechanicly normal, oil pressure light went out. The rev counter didn't come to life, the engine symbol remained lit.

I'm out of ideas now, is there anyone out there who may be able to help or point me in a sensible direction to try next?

Cheers, Em.

get it towed to a volvo dealer for an ECM software reload , and bob's your uncle :-)

ooohR
Jun 23rd, 2014, 20:46
Wow, that was a quick and confident reply!

That easy. I'll arrange to get it booked in then.

Thanks Clan.

Clan
Jun 23rd, 2014, 20:51
Wow, that was a quick and confident reply!

That easy. I'll arrange to get it booked in then.

Thanks Clan.

If a 2.0D has been left with a flat battery for a while , the immobiliser codes can be corrupted .. they will be refreshed with a reload .

SonyVaio
Jun 23rd, 2014, 22:34
Wow, that was a quick and confident reply!

That easy. I'll arrange to get it booked in then.

Thanks Clan.

Yes, Clan is awesome and knows his onions.

Hope your up and running soon.

:star-wars-smiley-01

ooohR
Sep 7th, 2014, 11:29
Just to update this topic.

I spoke to the service department about the fault suggesting that it needed an ECM software reload, booked the car into my local main dealer and towed it to them.

After several days had passed I phoned the service department to find out progress. "You need a crankshaft sensor and a new ECM". "Really?" I replied. I explained that I'd already replaced the crankshaft sensor, but was told it wasn't a genuine Volvo part. Personally I can't really see that it should make any difference, but went along with their diagnosis. The ECM was going to cost £700, so I also explained that I didn't want to just keep trying and paying for parts until it ran again. The service advisor assured me that wouldn't be the case, so I gave the go ahead to continue.
Again several days passed and I ended up ringing them to find out progress. "It's running" the service advisor cheerfully replied. Great, I asked how much the final bill was. £1435. Ouch.

I got a lift over to pay for and pick the car up. Looked at a break down of the bill and questioned a part we never discussed described as a 'washer' that cost around £80. The service advisor admitted that seemed expensive for a 'washer' and looked into it for me. The part turned out to be the crankshaft position sensor ring that's clamped between the timing belt drive and the drive pulley for the ribbed belt. I reluctantly paid the full amount for the bill and set off home.
On the motorway heading back the engine cut out and I ended up getting towed home by the person that gave me a lift down! Before calling the dealer, I had a look myself for the fault at home rather than near the dangers of fast motorway traffic to discover the crankshaft sensor multiplug had fell off. I plugged it back on and all was good again. A simple oversight, I left it at that.

The car has been fine and so far reliable since that day. I personally think the ECM and crankshaft position sensor were fine all along. I believe the fault was the crankshaft position sensor ring (part described as a 'washer'). I think they discovered this after replacing the other two parts and finding the engine still didn't run but couldn't return an opened ECM to the parts department. The new part looks a totally different design. The old one was a simple pressed steel affair, but the new one looks like it's made from several materials with a moulded plastic outer.

Anyway, although for me this has been costly. I hope it will be of use to someone else in a similar 'no start' situation.

Cheers, Em.

cheshired5
Sep 7th, 2014, 11:38
Glad you're sorted.
So with all the costs, has it still worked out that you bought a really cheap car and saved money over an equivalent with no issues?

ooohR
Sep 7th, 2014, 20:04
Hi, yeah, luckily still on the plus side.

Slightly frustrated though, as I suspected the crankshaft sensor ring could have been faulty because I couldn't get a signal out of the crankshaft sensor with an oscilloscope or an RPM reading when cranking the engine. I tried to order one from Volvo parts before I posted this topic but for some reason they couldn't locate or work out what part I meant on their exploded parts diagrams. Getting it wrong twice by ordering the wrong parts.

Anyhow, I'm happy with the car. It's just a shame I couldn't have got it all in cheaper.