v50 diy servicing

[sfstu]

Hi all, another noob question...

just got my 58 V50 r design this week and have a couple of bits to sort out such as front discs/pads needing replacing before MOT in a months time.

To keep costs down, and because i like to try and do stuff myself, was wondering if it's relatively simple to do a diy service at home consisting of:

oil and filter change
air filter change
pollen filter change
front brake discs/pads

Anything unusual or particular to volvos/v50's i should know about?
do the caliper pistons need winding in on the front or just compressing as normal?

I'm fairly competent at the basic stuff and have changed brakes before, albeit on older cars mainly Ford or Vauxhall, and anything more advanced that i can't handle I'll take to a garage.

Many thanks for reading,
rgds Stu

[SonyVaio]

What engine do you have?

Oil and filter pretty easy going and nothing outwith the normal there.

Air filter, simple.

Pollen filter - Nightmare! Really hard to get at, you've got to move CEM out of the way (fuse box under the glove box) and this can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins if you don't ensure it is put back properly and the big connections locked back into place.

Front pads/discs, simple stuff if you've done it before on almost any car.

You don't mention fuel filter? This could be dependant on engine type. A coolant and a brake fluid change would be worth considering too. Coolant use Volvo stuff on a mix of 50/50 and brake fluid you'll require approx. 1litre for a full flush/bleed.

There is a guide to changing pollen filter and discs/pads, if you can't find them then post back up and someone will provide you a link.

All the best,

:star-wars-smiley-01

[x DTR x]

Your best bet is to get yourself a haynes manual. If you are in to doing your own servicing and repairs then it's well worth owning one! I always purchase one when i buy a new car as i like to know whats what if you know what i mean? The rear brake pistons are indeed twist back and fronts are normal by the way:thumbs_up:

[sfstu]

What engine do you have?

Oil and filter pretty easy going and nothing outwith the normal there.

Air filter, simple.

Pollen filter - Nightmare! Really hard to get at, you've got to move CEM out of the way (fuse box under the glove box) and this can cause all sorts of electrical gremlins if you don't ensure it is put back properly and the big connections locked back into place.

Front pads/discs, simple stuff if you've done it before on almost any car.

You don't mention fuel filter? This could be dependant on engine type. A coolant and a brake fluid change would be worth considering too. Coolant use Volvo stuff on a mix of 50/50 and brake fluid you'll require approx. 1litre for a full flush/bleed.

There is a guide to changing pollen filter and discs/pads, if you can't find them then post back up and someone will provide you a link.

All the best,

:star-wars-smiley-01

doh...! It's a 2.0 d:thumbs_up:
Thanks for reply, I was thinking of doing the brake fluid at the same time as front discs but tbh i'm never got to grips properly with those handheld vacuum pumps! I have one and I did manage to do the brake fluid on the wife's Cmax a year or so back but it was more luck than judgement:rolleyes:
I'll check out the coolant too while i'm at it:thumbs_up:
Pollen filter sounds similar to the Cmax which I've done in the past and yes it was a right pain to do but ordered one today (thanks to a link someone on here provided) so will have a look at it at least.
Will have to try and find those guides.. ;)

Your best bet is to get yourself a haynes manual. If you are in to doing your own servicing and repairs then it's well worth owning one! I always purchase one when i buy a new car as i like to know whats what if you know what i mean? The rear brake pistons are indeed twist back and fronts are normal by the way:thumbs_up:

Thanks for replying:thumbs_up:
I too usually buy a haynes whenever i get a new car but as cars get newer and more complicated didn't think it was worth it now but you're right, it's nice to research a job before tackling it so will get one...:thumbs_up:
For future reference, are the rears woundback in different directions? one side clockwise and one side anticlockwise, (like my Mondeo estate was)?
think the discs and pads are ok on the rear for a while yet but worth knowing...;)

Rgds Stu

[sfstu]

Re: the pollen filter...
Just had a look at a couple of guides on here, one disconnecting the battery and the plugs in the fusebox and the other one managed it without unplugging stuff, albeit with a few cuts and I imagine a fair bit of swearing...!

i took the second option in the past (yes our Cmax has the pollen filter in the same location) and i did manage that by squashing the filter up a bit to get it in and will attempt this option when i come to do mine as I'd really rather not disconnect stuff and risk releasing the gremlins...!

[x DTR x]

I removed the glove box and cem when i done my pollen filter, easy enough to do and made access to the filter so much better. The rear caliper pistons wind back clockwise according to my manual.

[IanLD]

Did the pollen filter on our 59 plate Focus, so at least know where the V50 one is located.

Akward enough on the Focus, but looks like it is taken to a new level on the V50. Got it done when I had the car serviced last time to save me the hassle...

[SonyVaio]

When doing the pollen filter it is best to disconnect the battery (negative terminal).

In fact if your going to be plugging in or disconnecting any electrical connections on these cars it is ALWAYS a good idea to disconnect the battery. These cars despise electrical connections being tampered with the battery live.

The default result is normally an SRS light on even though you've never even touched the SRS system. This then means finding someone with a very good code reader or a VIDA/DICE to reset the SRS light as it will NOT go out on its own or by disconnecting the battery for 'XX' amount of time.

SRS errors are stored as permanent errors and need to be reset as opposed to normal errors that will go away if problem no longer exists (e.g MAF, glowplugs, boost pressure etc..) some other codes will go away after 'XX' amount of re-starts with problem no longer detected (e.g 'Anti Skid Service' message' turns to 'Anti Skid off' when error no longer detected and then after 'XX' amount of restarts will just go away).

HTH,

:star-wars-smiley-01

[cheshired5]

I was thinking of doing the brake fluid at the same time as front discs but tbh i'm never got to grips properly with those handheld vacuum pumps!

Sealey pressure bleeder. Very simple and very effective.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000ROARTI?pc_redir=1399870367&robot_redir=1

[sfstu]

Thanks all for replies...:thumbs_up:

Maybe i will disconnect the battery after all and remove the fusebox to do the pollen filter ;) i don't really like disturbing anything electrical due to the danger of releasing the magic white smoke... :)
Good electrical advice there Sonyvaio...:thumbs_up:

Re: the vacuum bleeder, i have one like THIS (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Hand-Held-Reverse-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Bleeder-Set-Vacuum-Pump-Car-Bike-Auto-UK-/251501769543?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a8eac7347) but where it connects to the bleed nipple, it doesn't seem that tight a fit...? Maybe it's too cheap a product...Also not sure what pressure i need to build it up to...:rolleyes:

It'll be a couple of weeks yet till i find time to do the service but that gives me time to collect the bits I'll need together... :)

Rgds Stu

[cheshired5]

Re: the vacuum bleeder, i have one like THIS (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-Hand-Held-Reverse-Brake-Bleed-Kit-Bleeder-Set-Vacuum-Pump-Car-Bike-Auto-UK-/251501769543?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3a8eac7347) but where it connects to the bleed nipple, it doesn't seem that tight a fit...? Maybe it's too cheap a product...Also not sure what pressure i need to build it up to...:rolleyes:

The one I gave you the link to refills your reservoir as you bleed and works very effectively at 20 psi or slightly lower. There's no benefit to risking higher psi's.
I have no experience with your type I'm afraid.

[sfstu]

The one I gave you the link to refills your reservoir as you bleed and works very effectively at 20 psi or slightly lower. There's no benefit to risking higher psi's.
I have no experience with your type I'm afraid.

My one, you have the res cap off (and need to refil regularly) and the pump works directly on the bleed nipple of the caliper...bit of a faff tbh!
I watched a couple of youtube vids of very similar ones to the one you linked, looks good and pretty easy to use...:thumbs_up:
Going to see if a mate has one i could borrow, if not maybe I'll get one;)