xc90 limp home and fault code 102,112&237 HELP

[concretegarage]

i have a 2004 xc90 d5 163bhp

after i changed the spline sleve for the awd, the car went into limp home mode.

idles perfect but it wont rev over 3000rpm. i have e obd2 fault code reader (deleting codes dosnt help.) and i get tree fault codes:

P0102 -- ECM-121D -- Mass air flow sensor -- Signal too low

P0112 -- ECM-131C -- Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor inlet -- Signal too high

P0237 -- ECM-125D -- Charge pressure sensor -- Signal too low

i have cleaned all the connectors, and i cant see any damage to the wiring...

[cheshired5]

What are the MAF grams per second at idle and when held at 1,2 and 3k revs?

[concretegarage]

What are the MAF grams per second at idle and when held at 1,2 and 3k revs?

just checked datastream... maf 0.52 g/s at idle.
an it just stays there when i try to rev it up.
only thing that changed the maf value, was me tapping my finger against the maf housing, then the value fell and raised up to 0.52 g/s shortly after.

[cheshired5]

MAF should read 13 g/s at idle and there should be a smooth rise in this value in line with revs. 3k revs would be around 60 g/s from memory.
If all airways are clear, air filter clean and all hoses are secure and leak free, the MAF may just need a clean with a proper MAF cleaner like CRC. Don't use carb or brake cleaner.

What MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) psi are you getting at idle and different revs?

[concretegarage]

MAF should read 13 g/s at idle and there should be a smooth rise in this value in line with revs. 3k revs would be around 60 g/s from memory.
If all airways are clear, air filter clean and all hoses are secure and leak free, the MAF may just need a clean with a proper MAF cleaner like CRC. Don't use carb or brake cleaner.

What MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) psi are you getting at idle and different revs?

i allready cleaned the maf sensor :-) no differense.
map sensor is stuck at 11kpa...

i don't know how this car should be, just baught it cheap because the awd didnt work. i drove it home it felt normal... i changed the cambelt on this car a year a go for the guy i baught it from, i then taught it was a really slow car, but i reved over 3000rpm.. maybe it allready had a fauly map sensor, and a maf sensor starting to give up?

is the conclusion to change maf and map sensor?
is the ebay (china) maf and map sensors any good?

thank very much for your help!

[cheshired5]

Starting by changing the MAF and do not at any cost buy anything other than genuine Bosch. A used genuine is better than a new copy so scour ebay or breakers. It should cost around £30/€40
See how you go from there first before messing with the MAP.:thumbs_up:

[outnumbered]

Rear engine mount vac pipe.
mike

[concretegarage]

Rear engine mount vac pipe.
mike

does blocking of this cause any problems? (see red line in picture)
incase one of the engine mounts leak?

[outnumbered]

does blocking of this cause any problems? (see red line in picture)
incase one of the engine mounts leak?
it will help if you have any issues with the car.
block them of and see what happens if the car is okay you have found the fault belive it or not the vac engine mounts can give you limp mode.
mike

[concretegarage]

Starting by changing the MAF and do not at any cost buy anything other than genuine Bosch. A used genuine is better than a new copy so scour ebay or breakers. It should cost around £30/€40
See how you go from there first before messing with the MAP.:thumbs_up:

just replaced the maf sensor (genuine bosch)
fault code on maf gone! maf is about 14.63 g/s at idle.

map sensor is stuck on 11kpa.

still won't rev over 3000rpm.
and still has following fault codes

P0237 -- ECM-125D -- Charge pressure sensor -- Signal too low
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem

[cheshired5]

just replaced the maf sensor (genuine bosch)
fault code on maf gone! maf is about 14.63 g/s at idle.

map sensor is stuck on 11kpa.

still won't rev over 3000rpm.
and still has following fault codes

P0237 -- ECM-125D -- Charge pressure sensor -- Signal too low
P0101 Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem

That's a good start with the MAF then. Is it moving up from 14.63 g/s when you rev?

MAP should be 85-90 kPa at idle rising to 200+ at full (4.5k) revs which I know you can't achieve currently but 11 kPa is dreadful.

There's an easy MAP test if the MAF is reacting to engine speed so let us know what it's up to.

[concretegarage]

That's a good start with the MAF then. Is it moving up from 14.63 g/s when you rev?

MAP should be 85-90 kPa at idle rising to 200+ at full (4.5k) revs which I know you can't achieve currently but 11 kPa is dreadful.

There's an easy MAP test if the MAF is reacting to engine speed so let us know what it's up to.

yes MAF is moving up when i rev!

sticker with the original bosch part number is missing from my MAP sensor... do you have a part number for me so i can find a new one on ebay.

[cheshired5]

yes MAF is moving up when i rev!

sticker with the original bosch part number is missing from my MAP sensor... do you have a part number for me so i can find a new one on ebay.

Part No. is 8636216 and it's made by Denso.
You can unscrew MAP sensor and remove it but leave it plugged in electronically (ignition on+diagnostics ready) and blow/suck the tube to see if you can get a reading that way. Clean the tube first.:)
I can get mine to fluctuate between 80-120 kPa using this method.
If you have a vac pump, it's even easier still.
They're pretty reliable so test to make sure it's the sensor at fault.
Of the 3 plug wires, one is live (5 volts I think) one is ground and the centre is the signal so check the wiring also. The fact you're getting a signal even though the reading is poor suggests your wiring is ok but better to be sure.:thumbs_up:

[concretegarage]

Part No. is 8636216 and it's made by Denso.
You can unscrew MAP sensor and remove it but leave it plugged in electronically (ignition on+diagnostics ready) and blow/suck the tube to see if you can get a reading that way. Clean the tube first.:)
I can get mine to fluctuate between 80-120 kPa using this method.
If you have a vac pump, it's even easier still.
They're pretty reliable so test to make sure it's the sensor at fault.
Of the 3 plug wires, one is live (5 volts I think) one is ground and the centre is the signal so check the wiring also. The fact you're getting a signal even though the reading is poor suggests your wiring is ok but better to be sure.:thumbs_up:

No response from senor when applying pressure/vaccum.
measured the connector... one pin is ground, one has 5v. and one is probably signal back to ecu.

[concretegarage]

i think this is the correct sensor for my car.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-XC90-D5-AIR-MANIFOLD-PRESSURE-MAP-SENSOR-P-N-0261230106-30622083-/271761224264?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f463b3248

the denso sesor has two screws my only has one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-V70-II-S60-S80-2-4D-D5-Drucksensor-Sensor-DRUCKGEBER-8636216-/181644504841?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item2a4adb2f09

[cheshired5]

i think this is the correct sensor for my car.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLVO-XC90-D5-AIR-MANIFOLD-PRESSURE-MAP-SENSOR-P-N-0261230106-30622083-/271761224264?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3f463b3248

the denso sesor has two screws my only has one...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Volvo-V70-II-S60-S80-2-4D-D5-Drucksensor-Sensor-DRUCKGEBER-8636216-/181644504841?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item2a4adb2f09

That's fair enough then.
We have the same D5244T engine but there can be small variances on individual parts over the model years as I found last year with an aux belt tensioner unit.
It's unlucky to have a MAF and MAP failure together on a D5 so I hope this solves your problem.
Let us all know.:thumbs_up:

[concretegarage]

just ordered a new MAP.
really wonder what made the MAP and MAF die!
battery was flat after i changed awd spline sleve... maybe low current could have caused the problem.... don't think that could have caused the problem.
Both MAP and MAF are on the same wiring loom..
when i got the car there was a hole in the pipe between MAF and turbocharger (now fixed) and the hose between intecooler and engine was cracked (now replaced) but the car was running fine until, i changed the awd spline sleve.
im thinking something should have caused these problems..... two sensor on the same wiring loom dying.. hmm

can i get the car out of limp mode with a normal obd2 fault code reader? or do i have to go to a volvo dealer?

[Horton]

You probably don't want to hear this but I'll put money on the fact that the work you have done replacing the Angle gear has disturbed something... The symptoms you describe sound like an air leak... Check your system again, and particularly the air system and vac pipes around the turbo area...

[cheshired5]

You probably don't want to hear this but I'll put money on the fact that the work you have done replacing the Angle gear has disturbed something... The symptoms you describe sound like an air leak... Check your system again, and particularly the air system and vac pipes around the turbo area...

If the problem was an air leak, both sensors would have functioned fine through other tests but they didn't, they were both knackered.
The new MAF is now performing within spec and there's good reason to think the new MAP will do the same.

[cheshired5]

can i get the car out of limp mode with a normal obd2 fault code reader? or do i have to go to a volvo dealer?

If the new MAP works and there's no further underlying fault, the engine will run fine.
Limp home won't be triggered and you can clear any codes (which will technically become historic).
Even a dealer can't clear a code if the root cause hasn't been fixed. The codes will just return.
I will say though, with the previously split pipes and unfiltered air, other issues may appear over time.....

[Horton]

If the problem was an air leak, both sensors would have functioned fine through other tests but they didn't, they were both knackered.
The new MAF is now performing within spec and there's good reason to think the new MAP will do the same.

Indeed, but two sensors going down at the same time is very unlikely...

[cheshired5]

Indeed, but two sensors going down at the same time is very unlikely...

It is unlikely but it has actually happened in this case.
The new MAF works perfectly in exactly the same conditions that the old one didn't work at all, which means the old MAF was duff.
In addition, the current MAP sensor has failed and is registering pretty much no pressure at all and isn't responding either in situ or when tested with a vacuum pump.
It's unlikely there is a vac leak otherwise the MAF wouldn't register over 14 g/s at idle.
Try it on your own. If you create a vac leak, the MAF reading at idle will be in low single figures at best.

[Horton]

I hear you, but just really odd, that's all. We had an XC90 185 recently that really didn't make sense with all it's issues, and kept going into limp, everything seemed fine, kept coming up with MAF failure, but the MAF was reading ok.....after tearing what little hair I have out I found a pin hole in the intercooler...new one, problem solved. Hence my obsession with air leaks :)
The other issue that can cause a D5 to throw limp mode is the VNT turbo, and changing an angle gear could disturb it....everything will seem fine, no specific codes etc, but will send you off on a wild goose chase if you don't know what you are looking for!

[cheshired5]

I understand what you mean which is why early on in this thread I suggested changing the MAF only to begin with and see where he stood after that.:thumbs_up:
Hopefully the new MAP sensor will sort things finally but if it doesn't and there is indeed an air leak, at least he'll have a functioning MAP to confirm it.:)
They sound like a pain to trace.