Alternator fixings......

[Jon]

I have machined myself an Alternator fixing bracket that bolts onto the right hand side of the block in my '68 133 b18d, I took a friends bracket from a 240 i think ? and basically copied it, i'm pleased with the result but can anyone tell me what size the two bolts are that mount these brakets to the block ? I need the thread pitch (this can be deducted from the bolt head markings (I.E "M-8")) and the overall bolt lengths

Thanks in advance

[arnom]

The threads in my 122's engine where the dynamo used to fit are 5/16in UNC. Nearly everything on the 120 series is UNC or UNF.

Incidentally, when I did my conversion from dynamo to alternator I mounted the alternator where Volvo did on later models ie on the other side to the manifold.

Hope that this is helpful.

mike_arnold@tesco.net

[Jon (Guest)]

Yup i plan to mount it on distributer side of the block using my 'new' bracket and the original Dynamo adjusting bracket , all i need is the bolts :)

[arnom]

You should be able to get the bolts from motor shops. If you are really desperate email me and I can post you a few second hand ones.

Regards.

mike_arnold@tesco.net

[tdz840]

Hi all - Merry Xmas and a Happy 2007!!
Picking up on this old thread regarding alternators. I am planning to replace the dynamo with an alternator.
I have managed to source a NOS Bosch K1 35A alternator as described in the Haynes. I plan to fit to the dizzy side of the engine and have sourced the correct brackets and fixings. However looking at the servo ( I have the old single cct unit - girling??) it seems very tight. Will the alternator mount in this position with this servo?
Does this servo require a separate voltage regulator or is it internally regulated ( it isnt in my oily mitts yet). How does the wiring differ from the dynamo set up.
I will be pulling the engine over the Xmas break, can it be pulled on its own without the gearbox or does the gearbox need to come out with the engine? I am not sure I have the height clearance for both units together.
Thanks in advance
Russ

[classicswede]

The alternator should clear the servo with no problems unless it has been mounted in a daft position.

When removing the engine I find it much simpler to remove both engine and box as one as normaly the securing bolts tend to be to tight to undo in position.

[tdz840]

Hi
Thanks for getting back so quickly!
The reason I need to remove just the engine is that space is V tight in the garage. I cant move the car out either as Im on a hill and the neighbours dont like old cars in their gardens!!
Can the engine be lifted without gearbox or dropping the crossmember?

Regarding the alternator fit does the Bosch alternator need a regulator and what are the wiring changes when going from a dynamo?
Cheers
Russ

[Pigeon]

I will also vote for removing engine and box as a unit. Mainly because it avoids the pain and grief of having to realign and reattach them on putting the engine back in. Same applies when working on the clutch and transmission - it's easier to get the engine and transmission out and then do the work than it is to drop the box, or more accurately to reattach it afterwards. We're not talking about a Ford Transit here :)

If you've got enough height to open the bonnet fully you've got enough height to take the engine and box out as long as you arrange your lifting tackle compactly so the hook isn't miles above the rocker box. If you're short of height the best thing is to unbolt the front panel, the crossmember above the radiator and of course the radiator itself.

The original-type Bosch alternator does require an external regulator. IIRC the wiring for the alternator + regulator combination is either the same as that for the combination of the dynamo and its regulator or only trivially different, though my definition of a trivial electrical problem may not be the same as yours :) But I'm pretty sure I just reconnected the original wiring to the appropriate terminals on the new regulator/alternator (I put my alternator in the same place as the dynamo, so it was not necessary to extend the wiring).

[tdz840]

Thanks Pigeon for the reply
I got the engine and box out as a unit but it was tight. The issues are:
1. This is a 1800S and therefore the front crossmemeber (by the radiator) cannot be removed like the amazon.
2. It is overdrive and therefore the assembly is significantly longer. I had the head off when I pulled the engine and therefore there was more clearance as the assemble was rotated upwards. However I have a feeling that the car needs to be off the deck by at least 2 feet -perhaps more.
The front suspension cross member is the issue preventing the engine moving forward due to the sump. The engine bay is due to be painted whilst the engine is out so going back in I need to be careful. I am considering dropping the front crossmember (pain as the engine will need to be floating above my head when I reattach everything) or I raise the car on axle stands. This will require a lot of thought as the lift isnt high enough to clear the car when it is raised this high.
I am not saying it is impossible but I removed the engine and box on my own and going back Im pulling mates in and considering using a sympathetic garage with lift.
Cheers
Russ