B16 Cylinder head studs.

[arcturus]

Doing an engine rebuild. I find the studs a pain in the a**e,especially when removing and replacing the head. Is it possible to replace with bolts and if so a source would be helpful.

[Derek UK]

If your rebuild goes well, you're not likely to be removing the head again so a little inconvenience at this point not too annoying IMO. If the engine is out and on a stand you can use your engine crane to lift the head off if you find it a bit heavy.
Are you having hardened exhaust valve seats fitted?
A small Denso alternator would suit your car if it clears the bonnet hinge.

[arcturus]

Probably do the valve seats. Re studs,I found it a pain trying to either replace head over studs,it always seems to hang up if it's not exactly square,alternatively getting the studs back into the block equally a pain. Will probably be sourcing used parts from Harry Hermanson in Sweden.Do you know which thread size is used on the studs where they screw into block? I might try to run a tap down to clean up the threads.

[Derek UK]

You can use a couple of suitable bolts with the heads cut off as locators for getting the head in the right place. Running a tap down the block holes is a good idea. Try not to cut any metal! The same with a die in the studs. Locking a couple of nuts on the studs to test run them will work. I think they are M10 but probably hardened. There is a small amount showing above the nuts when torqued down and you could if you are brave cut a shallow slot in the top for a screwdriver. I remember doing that on the at least one of the B16 starter motor studs as with the nut stuck on, it just wound the stud out, but there wasn't enough clearance to take it out. This also helped to get it back in again. Does that sound correct? It was 50 odd years ago!

[blueosprey90]

My 2 cents, never having rebuilt a B16 engine.

You must chase (run a tap down) to clean up the holes. You must also chamfer all of the holes. This removes the threaded part of the hole that is pulled up when the studs were tightened.

And I would go with new, hardened studs rather than cap bolts if at all possible. There is a reason they were used in the first place. Studs allow a much more accurate torque value and don't "walk" when being tightened. Google "engine block studs versus bolts" and you should come up with several hits worth reading.

Studs and bolts tend to stretch when tightened down more than a few times, so check for stretch if reusing your existing studs.

Also, don't bottom the studs in the hole. Leave them 1/4 to 1/3 of a turn loose.

If the engine is out, even if you don't do any machine work, you might consider doing a refresh, with new bearings, cleaning the oil galleries, new oil pump etc.

[arcturus]

Not M10. seems to be a finer thread.M10 nut will screw on for about three threads. Will need to find a thread gauge.

[Thowdfella]

Brookhouse volvo list the bolts for the cylinder head. I mad getting some.

[arcturus]

Brookhouse volvo list the bolts for the cylinder head. I mad getting some.

Not for B16 as far as I can make out

[Derek UK]

Part# 10567 nut M10x1,5x10 : cylinder head bolt B16. ... nut M10x1,5x10. 3,68 EUR. incl. 19 % Tax excl.
Above from Google search goes to Wagner and Gunther site but that seems to be dead.

[c1800]

I think you can find a parts catalog on the net for the 544/B16, I think there is also on the net Volvo fastener listing by part number showing size and thread.

Sorry don’t have all the links.

Here’s one, but I’m not a member, which you have to be to access the catalog

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/volvo_workshop-partsP544.shtml

[Derek UK]

The part is #10567, posted above. Unfortunately it isn't in the Fasteners list, which I have. I have the parts book.

[arcturus]

I think I tried a M10 coarse nut on the stud. I will check with a thread gauge tomorrow at my friends garage. Meanwhile the work progresses

[arcturus]

Engine out and on bench.I need to take bell housing off to remove flywheel so that I can bolt engine to rotating stand but,,,Before I can take off bell housing I need to remove flywheel to get at the two corner bolts. Catch 22. any suggestions? How is the flywheel held onto the shaft. Does the flywheel come off the "flange" marked by arrow or the center spigot

[Derek UK]

The "bolt" shown in pic#1 isn't a bolt but a locating pin. The same applies to the other side. With the other bolts out, 2 at the top and 2 lower ones each side it should come off. May need a bit of persuasion with a mallet at the bottom. Note: Top two bolts are 40mm long and the other 4, 30mm.

[arcturus]

Derek, are you sure about that? Looking at the pic' you can see it's a bolt with a lock washer under the head

Looking at the Pic of bell housing there are two bolts at top but no others visible. Seems strange only two bolts holding it on
I can't find anything about it in manuals

[arcturus]

Found this. Looks as though somehow you need to pull flywheel from flange over the studs (the schematic shows bolts) and slide it down so as to be able to undo the the two lower bolts which fasten the bell to the block.I think that I am on a loser when it comes to using my engine stand. Even with the head off the engine will be too heavy to attach to the stand by the gear box mounting holes in the cast aluminum bell housing. I could see a potential disaster in the offing.
I suppose unless there is another solution I will work with the engine lying on it's side.

[simon roberts]

W und G have ceased trading due to retirement,were selling off parts
at good prices.....Unfortunately nobody fancied taking on the
business..

[Derek UK]

Item #26 Part #17125 in the picture is called a Styrpinne which is a dowel pin. I suppose someone, even Volvo could have changed this to a bolt and threaded the block but as you have found, that would make life difficult. A dowel pin would have to be short enough to allow the bell housing to move towards the flywheel and then clear it to allow the housing to be lifted upwards. What about the other 4 bolts, 2 per side which are tucked up inside?
As you say you might be able to get a slim ring spanner up inside to do the flywheel bolts one at a time, turn the flywheel to present each bolt as close to the bottom as possible. With the flywheel out all of the housing attachment bolts should be reasonably easy to get at.
Typically I wrote the above and then looked the B16 clutch and flywheel. Pic attached in next post as I can't add it to this edited one.. That shows that once the flywheel retainer bolt nuts are removed you should be able to tap out the bolts and drop the flywheel. From your earlier photo you have already removed the nuts. So maybe you can do that. If you haven't got this info, let me know and I will send it out to you.

[Derek UK]

B16 Clutch and flywheel.

[arcturus]

Thanks, once I was able to look at the schematic and was able to see what I was dealing with everything became clear. Just need some brute strength and persuasion to pry flywheel loose from flange. Just like removing the clutch only more difficult.

[arcturus]

Success! a combination of brute force and gentle persuasion. They call me the "flywheel whisperer"