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View Full Version : 2008 V50 2.0d - Blue Smoke :(


cwhaley
Dec 9th, 2019, 07:27
Hi all. I'm struggling with a problem on my 2008 2.0d.

Does anybody know potential causes of the following symptoms?

- Excessive cranking when starting cold
- Large amount of light blue smoke for around 20-30 seconds after starting
- Rough idle which clears after 2 minutes

So far I have had the below work carried out:

- New heater plugs
- New injectors
- Battery tested
- Full service including fuel filter

This work has killed my wallet and the problem still remains!

brutusmotorsport
Dec 10th, 2019, 14:27
blue smoke is oil. more than likely its little sitting in the turbo. and burns out after few seconds or short drive down the road.

cwhaley
Dec 11th, 2019, 07:53
blue smoke is oil. more than likely its little sitting in the turbo. and burns out after few seconds or short drive down the road.

I did find a fine misting of oil in the intercooler pipe, is this normal? Just wondering why it would result in the rough start.

Welton
Dec 11th, 2019, 10:11
It is perfectly normal for oil mist to be carried over past the turbo and into the inlet track, what you don't want though is a lot of oil......a diesel engine will self destruct (run away) if it has a decent supply of oil to feed off - which is why I don't think yours is burning oil on cold start.

A blueish smoke can also be a diesel fueling issue on cold start, aren't new injectors supposed to be calibrated with the ECU etc ??

cwhaley
Dec 11th, 2019, 10:31
It is perfectly normal for oil mist to be carried over past the turbo and into the inlet track, what you don't want though is a lot of oil......a diesel engine will self destruct (run away) if it has a decent supply of oil to feed off - which is why I don't think yours is burning oil on cold start.

A blueish smoke can also be a diesel fueling issue on cold start, aren't new injectors supposed to be calibrated with the ECU etc ??

The pipe was slightly loose where it joined the air intake, so in removing and refitting I noticed a light coating of oil inside -- certainly nothing major.

The car runs absolute fine when warm and really is a pleasure to drive. Fuel economy not too great (reporting 30mpg) but that's probably down to my commute, otherwise I enjoy it.

The new injectors were fitted by an established diesel specialist and there's no codes being thrown for them. I've started going back to basics with it now -- going to test the battery myself at the weekend, plus leaving the MAF sensor unplugged, cleaning the EGR valve and also testing the current to the glow plugs.

The only thing I haven't mentioned is the fact that the previous owner mapped out the DPF and had the filter removed from inside. Not sure this would cause my issue though?

Clan
Dec 11th, 2019, 10:32
Hi all. I'm struggling with a problem on my 2008 2.0d.

Does anybody know potential causes of the following symptoms?

- Excessive cranking when starting cold
- Large amount of light blue smoke for around 20-30 seconds after starting
- Rough idle which clears after 2 minutes

So far I have had the below work carried out:

- New heater plugs
- New injectors
- Battery tested
- Full service including fuel filter

This work has killed my wallet and the problem still remains!

are you sure the plastic throttle flap is not sticking closed for the first few seconds after starting ?

cwhaley
Dec 11th, 2019, 10:39
are you sure the plastic throttle flap is not sticking closed for the first few seconds after starting ?

I've not checked it and neither have the garages (they only seem to be guided by the code readings!)

Where is the flap on the 2.0? My engine is very similar to the below (not my picture):

https://cdn.proxyparts.com/parts/100232/10239873/large/7487c296-33ae-4248-8e50-b11941ed1852.jpg

Clan
Dec 11th, 2019, 10:52
I've not checked it and neither have the garages (they only seem to be guided by the code readings!)

Where is the flap on the 2.0? My engine is very similar to the below (not my picture):

https://cdn.proxyparts.com/parts/100232/10239873/large/7487c296-33ae-4248-8e50-b11941ed1852.jpg

You have the double throttle on that system there is a vacuum servo on each one you can see there ... These are not prone to sticking like the single throttle version ... but you never know ! the symptoms fit ..

cwhaley
Dec 11th, 2019, 10:59
You have the double throttle on that system there is a vacuum servo on each one you can see there ... These are not prone to sticking like the single throttle version ... but you never know ! the symptoms fit ..

Would that be the item just up from the jubilee clip on both pipes?

During an inspection of my own I found the end of the left pipe to be snarled up with lots of perished rubber and it was also poorly connected. I removed the perished rubber, pushed the pipe further up and refitted. I bought a replacement silicone pipe but can see it's a pig of a job to replace, so not got around to it yet.

I'll add removing the throttle body to the list of the jobs and taking a look inside.Guess I'm looking for a circular flap stuck in the closed position?

Clan
Dec 11th, 2019, 11:41
Would that be the item just up from the jubilee clip on both pipes?

During an inspection of my own I found the end of the left pipe to be snarled up with lots of perished rubber and it was also poorly connected. I removed the perished rubber, pushed the pipe further up and refitted. I bought a replacement silicone pipe but can see it's a pig of a job to replace, so not got around to it yet.

I'll add removing the throttle body to the list of the jobs and taking a look inside.Guess I'm looking for a circular flap stuck in the closed position?

yes there is a circular flap in each pipe press them closed hard against the spring and see if there is any tendency to stick shut...

cwhaley
Dec 11th, 2019, 12:02
Thanks for the help. Jobs this weekend are to:

- Check throttle flaps for sticking
- Test battery is giving a 12.6V or higher voltage when rested
- Clean out the EGR valve
- Replace camshaft sensor (as I was given a new one)
- General check of pipes and sensors

Not holding out hope but I don't think the garage would have tested this stuff. I will come back to post results.

Adrijan
Dec 11th, 2019, 23:12
I'm currently having the exact same problem also with my 2008 2.0d V50, tried out many of the things you did and still not solved, and I am out of options, so I am expecting your update! Thanks.

cwhaley
Dec 12th, 2019, 07:26
I'm currently having the exact same problem also with my 2008 2.0d V50, tried out many of the things you did and still not solved, and I am out of options, so I am expecting your update! Thanks.

Started the car this morning and it was cold outside, cranked for about 5 seconds then spluttered and died, restarted cranking and had to rev it to get going. After a minute the idle was fine but the smoke lasted nearly that time!

Took ages to warm up but ran fine, nice and smooth!

I'll update you with my progress of my work. One other thing I will have done is a compression test but will need to book in at a garage for that.

Adrijan
Dec 12th, 2019, 15:22
Yeah my symptoms are exactly the same as yours. First started with slight shaking on startup for the first couple of seconds as the temps got colder, then it started spewing out bluish smoke and shaking, and then it got harder and harder to start up.
After the initial warmup it runs perfectly until it gets cold again and needs to be started.

cwhaley
Dec 12th, 2019, 15:28
Yeah my symptoms are exactly the same as yours. First started with slight shaking on startup for the first couple of seconds as the temps got colder, then it started spewing out bluish smoke and shaking, and then it got harder and harder to start up.
After the initial warmup it runs perfectly until it gets cold again and needs to be started.

What work have you done so far to look into the issue?

Clan
Dec 12th, 2019, 15:34
Yeah my symptoms are exactly the same as yours. First started with slight shaking on startup for the first couple of seconds as the temps got colder, then it started spewing out bluish smoke and shaking, and then it got harder and harder to start up.
After the initial warmup it runs perfectly until it gets cold again and needs to be started.

It could also be blown glow plugs

cwhaley
Dec 13th, 2019, 07:30
This morning the car was smoking even when driving which it hasn't done before. Not all the time but noticeable occasionally at low speeds. Engine temp was about 50-55 C after 10 mins of driving.

I've ordered a code reader which will arrive early next week, so I'm going to search myself for any codes being thrown. I also want to get a compression test done as the behaviour this morning makes me think it's a leak in one of the cylinders.

Adrijan
Dec 13th, 2019, 09:10
What work have you done so far to look into the issue?

Replaced injectors and injector washers, cleaned MAF sensor, crankshaft sensor, throttle body, EGR, changed the glowplugs...

I'm thinking it could possibly be the glowplug relay - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjA7hr-guFw (see video for location).

My mechanic is now mentioning a possibility of bent connecting rods which sounds pretty scary, but I'm sure there would be more symptoms as once it warms up after the initial startup, everything is perfectly fine.

cwhaley
Dec 13th, 2019, 19:16
Mine mentioned bent con rods too, but who knows! A mechanic at work says it sounds exactly like valve stem seals and dismissed the con rod idea.

I ran Forscan tonight and found these errors in the attachment. They mostly relate to air intake I think (Air Intake Temperature and Mass Air Flow) -- not sure if this would affect.

Adrijan
Dec 16th, 2019, 18:51
Hello, do you perhaps have an update? I am starting to be more and more afraid that it is the conrods, in which case this is pretty much unfixable, short of replacing the whole engine.

Welton
Dec 17th, 2019, 08:25
Bent con rods is a ridiculous thing for a 'professional' to suggest; and so is Valve Stem Oil Seals (we can leave that one back in the 1990's where it belongs). Valve stem seal technology is that good these days that only something extreme (like extreme heat) would affect the 'sealing' ability.

The only way you can bend con rods is to suffer a snapped cambelt and the piston has made contact with the valves (even then the valves are the weakest point) or a cylinder has become full of fluid which can't be compressed.....which can bend the con rod under extreme force.

cwhaley
Dec 17th, 2019, 10:08
Hello, do you perhaps have an update? I am starting to be more and more afraid that it is the conrods, in which case this is pretty much unfixable, short of replacing the whole engine.

The con rods can be replaced but it's an expensive job.

In my case I've decided to get rid of the car by part exchanging it. I can't warrant spending any more money on it.

Clan
Dec 17th, 2019, 11:19
The con rods can be replaced but it's an expensive job.

In my case I've decided to get rid of the car by part exchanging it. I can't warrant spending any more money on it.

A bent con rod is usually caused when water is sucked into the engine , have you been through any floods recently? It is easy to check by measuring and comparing down through the injector holes .

PRainbow
Dec 17th, 2019, 22:33
Cheap supermarket fuel always made my 2005 Diesel Santa Fe smoke like a trooper. (Not an Isuzu..). When I put branded fuel in it cleared within 100 miles and never smoked.

Just a thought worth sharing.

srcholmes
Dec 18th, 2019, 09:05
Cheap supermarket fuel always made my 2005 Diesel Santa Fe smoke like a trooper. (Not an Isuzu..). When I put branded fuel in it cleared within 100 miles and never smoked.

Just a thought worth sharing.

My 06 2.0D had major trouble starting one day with lots of blue smoke kicking out. Well actually it was twice in one week, the second time it was pretty bad and took me about 5 mins to get the thing started.

I bought some EGR cleaner from Halfrauds (Wynn's I think), and sprayed the can where it told me to with the engine running. I then used Shell V-Power for a few tanks and have not had any problems since. It might be worth a punt at only about £10 a can before deciding to part exchange?

cwhaley
Dec 18th, 2019, 11:54
Thanks all for the replies. I have looked inside the EGR and although there was clearly wet-looking "soot" around the opening (where the silver pipe goes) and generally inside it didn't look tooo bad -- certainly not blocked.

I top up with Texaco Supreme 1 in every 4 top ups. The rest of the time it's just regular Texaco stuff.

Srcholmes -- interesting your problem was solved with a clean of the EGR. Where does it get sprayed into?

I'll give it a go with the better quality fuel and using EGR cleaner, but not holding out hope. I did unplug the EGR valve but it made no difference.

Bendolfc
Dec 18th, 2019, 13:03
Mines on 210K and for the last 130K has been run pretty much on supermarket fuel, it doesn't smoke.

PRainbow
Dec 18th, 2019, 22:10
Mines on 210K and for the last 130K has been run pretty much on supermarket fuel, it doesn't smoke.


Might just have been the Sante Fe engine, I don’t know, but that is what I experienced on that car.

So far my 107k C30 2.0D Volvo seems happy to run on anyone’s Diesel.