S40 T5 Oil Change

[domhart10]

... Right so ive decided to attempt an oil change myself, looks relatively straight forward. I thought I would just check that I am doing it all right after watching a few youtube videos.

If there is anything I missed out or you guys recommend I should do as well, please let me know.

1 - I will need to jack the car up onto axle stands as I dont have a wheel ramp.

2 - Then just remove the skid pan

3 - Place oil pan tray underneath and remove bung

4 - While oil is draining out, replace the oil filter and replace the oring (I think they said the oring needs to sit on the 2nd thread down from the top?)

5 - Once oil has drained out, replace bung (Here I come across various things where people say to get a new bung? or to get new washers and that you cannot use the original one?)

6 - drop the car to level ground (Do not turn engine on)

7 - Top the engine with oil till it sits midway on the measurement on the dipstick.

Done

^^^

So im hoping all the above it correct? I have orders 8 ltrs of oil and a Bosch Oil Filter which im guessing comes with an oring to replace. Not sure on the bung situation?

[T5R92011]

You will need a 36mm socket for the oil filter and it needs to be a "normal" length socket, not a deep socket or you won't fit a wrench on the end of it.

Also these engines only need 5.5 litres of oil.

I've never replaced the sump plug but do put a new 'crush' washer on which you can order on ebay for Volvo. You will see them advertised for S60/V70/XC70 XC90 etc but these also fit our T5.

Also, get the engine nice and warm first so oil will be runny.

[domhart10]

thanks for that T5R92011, yeh I will get one ordered now then.

[Welton]

Lol I just did mine yesterday.

You will need a set of Oil Filter Cap sockets (Amazon) they use a 3/8" socket drive so you might need a 1/2" to 3/8" socket adaptor. There's 6 in a set and from memory ours is size 27mm but there could be differences out there.

You will need to remove the fresh air duct feeding the air filter housing (if fitted) but it's only 2 x 10mm screws.

Socket set wise:

1/2" socket ratchet
Extension bars - various lengths to suit (I got a set of 3 from Amazon) but you'll definitely use the longest one approx 250 - 300mm long to reach the cap.
I use one of those socket knuckle joints (its hard to get a direct line onto the oil filter cap from).

Torque wrench (or you can cheat and draw a white pen marker down the oil filter cal and the body so you can then match those lines up upon re-tightening).

The new oil filter cartridge will come with a new O-ring so replace that and yes it sits in the 2nd groove down (look at how the old one sits before you remove it) - take a picture because it could be another while before you revisit this step and may forget how it's supposed to sit (ask me how I know).

You will also notice once you crack off the oil filter cap you'll get another good slug of oil drain out of the sump so leave the sump plug out until just before refilling the new oil. Always try to get a new crush washer for the sump nut but you won't have to replace the nut unless the hex-head is chewed up. In actual fact these nuts are 17mm size but mine feels a bit 'loose' in the socket so a piece of tissue paper helps get a snug fit there - torque up to 35NM on completion. Never 'murder' up these nuts you could damage the tread inside the sump.

The oil filter cap holds the filter cartridge in a black plastic 'cage' which feels a fit flimsy but simply pull the cartridge sharply and it'll either leave this cage in place or pull it free - in which case you'll have to grab the cage from inside the old oil cartridge and then snap it back into the cap piece with a push-fit 'click' into place - all quite straight forward.

And yes - HOT OIL first!

I added 5.8 ltrs of oil (as per handbook) and it only shows half way between min-max on the dippy!

[MDS40]

The first time i did the oil change i found it a nightmare to drive the car up the ramps as mine is geartronic, then the hassle of removing the undershield.

I purchased one of the suction pumps that connects to the battery for the next oil change and this made it so much easier to carry out.

The oil filter on mine is at the top of the engine so no need to remove under shield. Not sure if the T5 is the same though.

I replaced the sump plug and washer the first time, purchased from ECP.
I know people say you don't get all the oil out this way but i disagree as you can get the extraction tube right down to the bottom of the sump.

[Yobbo]

One other thing, make sure your engine is up to temp before doing all this.
I prefer to loosen off the oil filter cap completely as it allows the oil to run faster.

[FunkyMelon]

What oil are you putting in it?

I'd be very careful with the grade. Volvo still recommend 0W30 for these engines which apparently, according to well known tuners can (and does) cause the bottom ends to go.

10W40 is recommended for standard engines, not sure what you'd need now you're pushing more power though.....

[Welton]

I've done 80K miles with 0W/30 oil and engine is used *fully* with no issues yet (standard power).

I have heard this about the oil so would consider changing grades, never really looked into it much though.

[domhart10]

What oil are you putting in it?

I'd be very careful with the grade. Volvo still recommend 0W30 for these engines which apparently, according to well known tuners can (and does) cause the bottom ends to go.

10W40 is recommended for standard engines, not sure what you'd need now you're pushing more power though.....


Im going to be sticking in some Castrol 5W-30 for now as the car is due an oil change. Will be getting an oil change again in a month to get some millers oil but I thought I might as well try it myself. I think BD put in millers oil when they forged it.

[MDS40]

I use 5/30 as recommended by Volvo for my 2.4 . (Not T5)
Volvo then changed the spec to 0/30 for the 2007 model. No idea why.