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Anza (Guest)
Jul 25th, 2001, 12:13
I have a '69 Amazon that has a B20A engine with Stromberg 175CD. The strange problem with starting the engine is like this:
In the morning I have to start for over 2 minutes or so. Sounds like the engine starts cylinder by cylinder... Battery and the starter motor are ok, no problem with these. When I finally get the motor running it runs ok. Well, when the motor is hot after few kilometers and I stop and turn off the engine for few minutes it is ones again hard to start the engine. Starter runs like a rabbit but the engine starts to run after ten to twenty seconds of starting. Now comes the "funny" part: After a day at work (lets say 8 hours) I come to the parking place and the engine runs immediately when I turn the key. Like no problem at all... I drive the engine hot and stop for few minutes to get something from the grocery and ones againg I have hard time to get the engine running. And in the next morning... like every morning. Anybody any ideas?
One thing more, today I checked the distributor cap and the carbon brush looks a bit worn (small piece missing) but it still touches the rotor arm. Looks like something has been sparking inside the cap (black dust on the inside of the cap) -Anza

Vicente Rodriguez (Guest)
Jul 25th, 2001, 13:44
You haven't said how well it runs when it is actually going! Assuming you have checked your petrol supply is ok (try an in-line filter in the fuel line to the carb, there is a filter in the pump top also) it has to be a process of elimination.

Start with ignition checks i.e. check/renew LT and HT items and timing. A faulty lead for example will hinder good starting but may be not ne noticeable at speed.Is tickover smooth?

If problems still persist things may become more expensive! The fuel pump, carb or the engine may need attention!

Call Christ Hart in Putney 0208 788 2406 who is extremely knowledgeable.

phatmendus
Aug 14th, 2002, 21:17
perhaps it may be worth replacing your rotor arm in your distributor, as i once had a similar problem which took me ages to fathom out, that when the car was cold it ran ok, but as it warmed up the copper contact on the rotor arm expanded and the connection broke so the current could not get through, although no crack or break was apparent. just a thought, and also a cheap part to replace. hope this may help.