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View Full Version : D24TIC - Massive smoking after antifreeze top up


Laney760
Sep 12th, 2008, 13:29
For those unfamiliar with my poorly but still strong engine, she is in for diagnosis next Tues re head/gasket and low compression. She normally smokes a bit on start-up, this was white then black, has reverted back to white since flush/oil/filter change. After putting in antifreeze this morning on start up she absolutely billowed white smoke (steam) out for ages, very embarrasing and you could smell the sweet smell of antifreeze. I think this is further confirmation of blown head gasket & or cracked head, coolant being sucked into the cylinder during the intake stroke and being vaporized during the combustion stroke. However, I read that in this case compression is not affected so also expecting to be told on Tues that my low compression is not due to assumed head/gasket problem diagnosed but to worn ring gear (definite engine rebuild if both problems?).

Just restarted her when leaving work and again masses of white sweet smelling steam/smoke (this calms down as usual when driving off and can only be seen in the dark or after motorway driving at lower levels normally)

I'm assuming the massive smoking is simply that the steam can be seen more than normal because it is now not almost pure water in the coolant system and contains a lot more antifreeze or am I wrong and is there a technical explanation as to why the antifreeze top up would have this very embarrasing effect? Thank you for your help

tfb
Sep 12th, 2008, 19:15
That's not something I've had happen to me before, but it some seem highly likely that there is a problem with the head or the gasket.

White smoke is usually associated with unburnt diesel, but the smell from that is very acrid and it will make your eyes water. If your's is sweet smelling then I guess it must be the antifreeze getting into the combustion chamber.

As long as the car still starts and runs I'd get RAC/AA etc cover with recovery or onward travel and just keep using the car with an eye on the temp and water levels. You may as well keep using the car till it dies as the cost of fixing it now it probably not much different to the cost of fixing it if it totally fails.

Low compression can be caused by worn piston rings or bores, but ring rear normally refers to the toothed edge of the flywheel that the starter motor engages on.

On cost basis I would recommend getting replacement engine (or get a complete car to strip for spares) rather than rebuilding an engine. Yes, a rebuilt engine will be more reliable and should last longer than an engine with no history and no idea of how it has be cared for, but I would guess the rebuild would end up costing 2-4 times more and who's to say that after you have spent all that money something else won't fail?

Regards

TFB

Laney760
Sep 12th, 2008, 19:36
That's not something I've had happen to me before, but it some seem highly likely that there is a problem with the head or the gasket.

White smoke is usually associated with unburnt diesel, but the smell from that is very acrid and it will make your eyes water. If your's is sweet smelling then I guess it must be the antifreeze getting into the combustion chamber.

As long as the car still starts and runs I'd get RAC/AA etc cover with recovery or onward travel and just keep using the car with an eye on the temp and water levels. You may as well keep using the car till it dies as the cost of fixing it now it probably not much different to the cost of fixing it if it totally fails.

Low compression can be caused by worn piston rings or bores, but ring rear normally refers to the toothed edge of the flywheel that the starter motor engages on.

On cost basis I would recommend getting replacement engine (or get a complete car to strip for spares) rather than rebuilding an engine. Yes, a rebuilt engine will be more reliable and should last longer than an engine with no history and no idea of how it has be cared for, but I would guess the rebuild would end up costing 2-4 times more and who's to say that after you have spent all that money something else won't fail?

Regards

TFB

Sorry, I obviously call the rings & bores 'ring gear' incorrectly, I've a lot to learn! Thank you

tfb
Sep 12th, 2008, 22:04
That's ok :) I was just a bit worried that that might have been what the garage had told you!

Regards

TFB

Laney760
Sep 12th, 2008, 23:39
That's ok :) I was just a bit worried that that might have been what the garage had told you!

Regards

TFB


No, garage never said this, I picked up this incorrect term for rings and bores from someone else years ago, assumed because they referred to them as ring gear they were right. Like I said, lots to learn, I've probably picked up a lot of other wrong stuff along the way from lots of sources, oh well, here to learn!

scottishvolvo
Sep 13th, 2008, 18:15
Sorry laneystrider but it does seem like the coolant is getting into the cylinders some-how. Best case would be a C/H gasket, worse case, cracked C/H. Don't think it will be piston rings/bores as this would probably show as water in the oil.

Laney760
Sep 13th, 2008, 18:34
Sorry laneystrider but it does seem like the coolant is getting into the cylinders some-how. Best case would be a C/H gasket, worse case, cracked C/H. Don't think it will be piston rings/bores as this would probably show as water in the oil.


Will know on Tues, hope just the hg, I don't think I'll ask the cost of a ch on here! If just the hg I am having head gasket and new cam belt done for just under £700 all in, a good price, believe me, I've shopped around, well worth it on this beautiful car. If there's more than the head gasket going on it would be so much money I may as well have a full rebuild, so maybe run her into the ground and then a rebuild but I am used to having a very powerful car that would do 140mph and 0-60 well under 5 secs so I am finding this car a bit dissapointing on that score. Really have to push her hard on hills, foot to the floor. I do use just a little oil, which is why I wondered about pistons/bores. I like to think as the car is virtually pristine and totally rustless that if I keep it and really look after it one day I'd have a very rare and valuable Volvo, lol. Anyway, roll on Tuesday, I'll know whats going on then. I have no overheating though (but haven't done a long motorway run, don't think I could without topups) and a remarkable thing with this engine is the longer it runs the better it goes, it loves Saturdays when I am on the road all day (town driving), not my imagination..... Thanks

scottishvolvo
Sep 13th, 2008, 20:55
Always another option and get a load of spares at the same time.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Volvo-940-SE-Turbo-Diesel_W0QQitemZ300257062471QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em300257062471&_trkparms=72%3A985|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A131 8&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

Laney760
Sep 14th, 2008, 00:33
Always another option and get a load of spares at the same time.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Volvo-940-SE-Turbo-Diesel_W0QQitemZ300257062471QQcmdZViewItem?hash=it em300257062471&_trkparms=72%3A985|39%3A1|66%3A2|65%3A12|240%3A131 8&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14

LOL, you did make me laugh (kindly). I know about this car, I too am watching it on Ebay, if you read his listing in depth you will see he has exactly the same problem with head/head gasket as me! He's managed 9000 miles with this problem, I did raise a thread about this, wondering how long mine will soldier on as it is, probably for ages if I keep coolant topped up but can I live with lack of power, smoke and not being able to relax and do a few hundred miles on a motorway without stopping, all in all why I want to get it sorted out. But if you see any more cheap ones without head problems, let me know please, lol...

Peter Milnes
Sep 14th, 2008, 03:17
Another possible cause for this is that the engine is before the new gasket. The new gasket does not need retightening of the head bolts after 1,000 miles from new or rebuild. Prior to the new gasket the head bolts were forgotten about as the dealers did not want the bother of taking the rocker box off. Details are in the Green book but usually mean tightening by a further 90 degrees in one movement. Other reasons for White smoke are due to the injection pump, injection timing incorrect, defective injector(s), Pre-heating defective, Cold start defective, fuel filter blocked (water), fuel lines blocked, water in fuel system (have you regularly drained water from the bottom of the fuel filter?). Start with eliminating the easiest fault and work up to the hardest.

All the best, Peter. :car-smiley-031: