PV544 B18 Engine Codes - Decoding

[alanwjack]

I just bought a 1959 PV 544 that has had an engine swap and now has a B18 in it. I don't know what version, but it does have twin SU carbs (AUD 94s) mounted on a 418404 intake manifold. The head is a 418 205 and there is a cast L 13 5 forward on the head (date code, perhaps?). The block has casting number 4968 on the left hand side followed by a 1 6 stamped on a pad and then 18489 stamped on a second pad. These are followed by a cast B18 with HBG418201 beneath it. Can anyone enlighten me as to the decoding of these? Also, where is the date code on these heads and blocks? Thanks for any help you might provide!

[amazondean]

Hi The 16 will be the code to check which engine it is. There is information somwhere that will tell you if it is a single carb or twin carb engine. Also what year it is from and what bhp the engine is. All this information just from 16.

[alanwjack]

Amazondean, Thanks very much for the info re decoding. I'll see if I can find out more about that "16". If anyone else has any ideas of where to look for it I would appreciate knowing! Regards, Alan

[agent_strangelove]

Alan-

A somewhat telling way to see what engine you have is to cross reference the engine number (the cast in 4968 with the stamped 16). The Volvo parts manuals have a section in the front of them that tells what engine numbers came in which cars (and possible mating transmissions). This section is in front of the normal parts catalog. It's too bad that GCP.se didn't scan this area of those manuals in.

I can do some looking tonight (I have the original hard copies of most 444/445/544/210/122/1800 Volvo parts manuals in my collection) to see if I can find that exact engine code.

The carbs... (AUD 94 is just the tag on the top of the float bowl) Odds are the SU HS6's 2-bolt (how the air filters are held on rather than 3-bolt) style. From your description, they are on a standard manifold. Is there a hose fitting barb off the middle of the manifold (that may or may not run over the top of the block to a PCV set up in front of the starter)? The early b18/HS6's manifolds didn't have this fitting. The later ones (like after '63) had this barb

But the truth of it, is that info will only tell you the configuration that your engine left the factory in. In 40+ years of life, it most likely has been rebuild. Was it bored out at that time? What cam was put back into it? Did the matching distrib end up back in there?

Chris

[alanwjack]

Alan-

A somewhat telling way to see what engine you have is to cross reference the engine number (the cast in 4968 with the stamped 16). The Volvo parts manuals have a section in the front of them that tells what engine numbers came in which cars (and possible mating transmissions). This section is in front of the normal parts catalog. It's too bad that GCP.se didn't scan this area of those manuals in.

I can do some looking tonight (I have the original hard copies of most 444/445/544/210/122/1800 Volvo parts manuals in my collection) to see if I can find that exact engine code.

The carbs... (AUD 94 is just the tag on the top of the float bowl) Odds are the SU HS6's 2-bolt (how the air filters are held on rather than 3-bolt) style. From your description, they are on a standard manifold. Is there a hose fitting barb off the middle of the manifold (that may or may not run over the top of the block to a PCV set up in front of the starter)? The early b18/HS6's manifolds didn't have this fitting. The later ones (like after '63) had this barb

But the truth of it, is that info will only tell you the configuration that your engine left the factory in. In 40+ years of life, it most likely has been rebuild. Was it bored out at that time? What cam was put back into it? Did the matching distrib end up back in there?

Chris
Chris, Thank you very much for your reply. Yes, the air filters are the two-bolt design. I too believe the carbs are HS6's. Also, there is a barb off of the intake manifold that goes to a PCV on the opposite side of the block. I know it is a B18 but I don't know if it is a B18D, B18B or whatever. It makes ordering things like tune-up parts somewhat a crap shoot! I have a feeling that the ignition points and condenser I ordered are going to be the wrong ones. It took two tries to get the right oil filter! I was hoping that there would be a date code somewhere on the block that might at least tell me when the block was cast. If there is I don't know where to find it or how to decode it. In any event thanks again for your help and willingness to see what your reference books tell you. Regards, Alan

[agent_strangelove]

Alan et al.-

Attached is a scan of one of the pages out of the front of a 120 parts manual.

If you look down 2/3 of the way in the 'Four-door saloon cars' in the column marked 'Engine designation' you will see 496816... Reading forward and backwards, it left the factory as a B18D and mated to a M40 transmission. The first column is the car type code. This also tells you it was a dual carb set up on a US delivery car.

But will also find 496816 under the two door cars as well as the station wagons on that same page. Thus it was a pretty common engine that came out of a 122 in about '64 or '65.

There shouldn't be any issue with getting distrib tune up parts. Call you local bosch dealer and give them the number off the side of the distrib. Odds are the last three digits will be 003 (again the standard distrib that would have been in the engine when it left the factory).

I also really recomend not skimping on oil filters. The Volvo ones (or Mann who makes them for Volvo) have 2-3 times the filter area that the brand-x ones do. The local Volvo dealer has a display of several filters, cut apart to show the guts and it's very telling. Volvo used the same oil filter for over 40 years as it was sooo over engineered. The folks that get these engines to go hundred of thousands (or millions) of miles tend to use the quality filters. I pay about $4.50 for a good filter if I wait for them to be on sale. I think you can get them any day of the week for about $6 at your local Volvo dealer.

Chris

[alanwjack]

Chris, Thank you very, very much for going to the trouble of looking this up and sending it to me. It is very kind of you to do so. It is nice to at least know what the engine was originally! It should help in isolating some parts, and I'll look for the numbers on the distributor to see what points/condenser I should get. As for the filter, I bought the best one that Advance Auto had (cost about $6) when I did the first oil change last week. I'll look for the Volvo supplied ones next time, as you suggest.

I don't know if Volvo dated the block casting dates (or build dates) or not, like many of the old Corvettes I'm familar with. The head on my PV544 has what I think might be a date code. It has a L 13 5 cast into the front right side. If it were an old Corvette that would mean December 13, 1965 (casting date). Do you know if Volvo date coded their heads and blocks, and if so where do I find the numbers and how do I read them?

I don't mean to keep bugging you but you are a fountain of knowledge on these Volvos and I am a thirsty guy! I owned a 1959 PV544 for about six years back in the 60s and then a 144S after that. It has been years since I engaged with them, however, so I'm learning all over again. I really do appreciate your willingness to educate me too.

Best regards,

Alan

[agent_strangelove]

I have never read anything that indicated that Volvo used date codes on heads or blocks. But you may be onto something....

I would be curious to know what they did in your car in terms of the radiator? Your car left the factory with a b16 engine in it, and thus the water pump's lower port would be on the left side (drivers side in the US) and the radiator would be plumbed to accept such. The b18/b20 had the water pump port on the other side. I have seen funny plumbing down there to get water to the other side, and I have seen radiators that are modified (sort of retanked) to have the fitting on the other side...


Chris

[alanwjack]

I have never read anything that indicated that Volvo used date codes on heads or blocks. But you may be onto something....

I would be curious to know what they did in your car in terms of the radiator? Your car left the factory with a b16 engine in it, and thus the water pump's lower port would be on the left side (drivers side in the US) and the radiator would be plumbed to accept such. The b18/b20 had the water pump port on the other side. I have seen funny plumbing down there to get water to the other side, and I have seen radiators that are modified (sort of retanked) to have the fitting on the other side...


Chris
Chris,

I took some pictures of the plumbing to show you what it looks. If you send me your email address I'll send them to you. Also, it turns out I have a 002 distributer rather than a 003. I ordered points, condensor, etc., for it today since the others I got were wrong. Now if I can find an SU HS6 rebuild kit that is priced right I'll be in good shape! If you have any preferred sources of parts for classic Volvos I would appreciate knowing of them. Thanks again for all your help.

Alan

[agent_strangelove]

The cast iron bodied 002 distrib left the factory in the engines that were mated to the automatic transmission (BW-35). They are not real common. They are suppoosed to have a different advancement curve in them but I have never been able to tell the difference in driving an automatic with the 002 or 003 in there. If the 002 you have is in good shape (little to no slop in the main shaft) then it's most likely not worth getting an 003 to go in there.

If the parts store gives you guff about there not being a listing for an 002, the points, condenser, cap etc are the same as the more common 003. The most readily available Volvo parts place (for points and stuff like that) is IPD. www. ipdusa.com. Note I didn't say they were the cheapest by any means. Reproduction parts of all kinds of stuff can be had at www.vp-autoparts.com but the catalog can be a bit overwhelming.

I generally don't mess with rebuilding my own carbs. Lots of folks will do it but my prefered rebuilder of choice is a guy in Clovis, MN. He installs UHMW bushings instead of the bronze bushing that SU installed. He guarantees the UHMW bushings forever (to not wear out). He charges about $240 a pair for those (but it's been a few year since he rebuilt a set of me as the ones I have from him are in great shape). You will find other rebuilders that may install bearings instead of bushings but they generally want $500+ for that. The rebuilder in NM is Lii (pronouced Lee) Montgomery. He's not much into email and you are best off to call him at: 505-763-6134

You can easily post photos up here for all to see or drop me a note directly at agent_strangelove@hotmail.com

Chris

[alanwjack]

The cast iron bodied 002 distrib left the factory in the engines that were mated to the automatic transmission (BW-35). They are not real common. They are suppoosed to have a different advancement curve in them but I have never been able to tell the difference in driving an automatic with the 002 or 003 in there. If the 002 you have is in good shape (little to no slop in the main shaft) then it's most likely not worth getting an 003 to go in there.

If the parts store gives you guff about there not being a listing for an 002, the points, condenser, cap etc are the same as the more common 003. The most readily available Volvo parts place (for points and stuff like that) is IPD. www. ipdusa.com. Note I didn't say they were the cheapest by any means. Reproduction parts of all kinds of stuff can be had at www.vp-autoparts.com but the catalog can be a bit overwhelming.

I generally don't mess with rebuilding my own carbs. Lots of folks will do it but my prefered rebuilder of choice is a guy in Clovis, MN. He installs UHMW bushings instead of the bronze bushing that SU installed. He guarantees the UHMW bushings forever (to not wear out). He charges about $240 a pair for those (but it's been a few year since he rebuilt a set of me as the ones I have from him are in great shape). You will find other rebuilders that may install bearings instead of bushings but they generally want $500+ for that. The rebuilder in NM is Lii (pronouced Lee) Montgomery. He's not much into email and you are best off to call him at: 505-763-6134

You can easily post photos up here for all to see or drop me a note directly at agent_strangelove@hotmail.com

Chris
Chris, Thanks once again for the valuable information and leads. I had found IPD online but not the other one. I ordered ignition parts from Swedish Treasures because they were one of the few that even listed the 002 distributor when discussing application of points, condensor, rotors, etc. It is good to have multiple potential sources, of course.

Thanks also for the info re rebuilder of the SU carbs. Many years ago, when I owned my first PV544, I became somewhat "expert" at rebuilding them. I had two sets, and would rebuild one while the other was still on the car. I don't have that luxury now so I will contact the current expert you suggested and see what he charges these days. The complete rebuild kit itself is not cheap, as you no doubt know.

As for the photos, I have not been able to figure out how to post photos on this web site or attached to or integral to a reply or thread. Therefore I put several photos on photobucket that you and others can go to. The URL is http://photobucket.com/pv544 and hopefully it works. If not let me know. The "plumbing" from the water pump is a bit strange seeing that the outlet is on the passenger side and the heater input on the driver side. A pipe runs from the waterpump outlet around to the back of the engine block where it connects to the rubber heater hose. Another connects on the back of the block. In any event there are several pictures shown.

As you can see the engine compartment needs some detailing. I don't know if anyone sells spray cans of the Volvo engine paint (I think it is called Penta Red). Others I have seen suggest other red engine paints. Any suggestions on this?

Alan

[agent_strangelove]

That is a very nice car. I was more currious about the lower end of the radiator. It looks like that rad. has been retanked.

In terms of engine paint.... I use high temp Ford Red. If you are trying to match something, it will stick out as a darker red. But if I'm doing a whole block, it's fine. There is a thread on this right now on the brickboard: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1350167&show_all=1

Chris