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Moosejaw
Jun 12th, 2009, 16:08
Following on from asneddon's post about the throttle linkage, I had a look at mine today while I was fitting my new heater valve (Thanks Derek :regular_smile: ) and while I seem to be getting full throttle OK, my problem seems to be at the other end of the pedal's travel.

The initial push required from idle seems to be quite heavy, and when I investigated the linkage I noticed that when the accelerator is pressed initially it's having to almost push part of the linkage over centre if you see what I mean. #1 in the pic shows the part I mean.
At rest it's vertical, when I reckon it could be slightly angled to start the movement of the linkage on the carbs.

The short rod at #2 has a good 6 or 7mm of free play in it before it starts to operate the throttles on the carbs, and if it were longer, I reckon the bar on the end of the pedal linkage would sit at a better angle too.
Am I right that this would fix the problem?

I did try to pull the ball&socket joint apart, first by hand, then by levering it with a screwdriver which is now at a jaunty angle! :Not_Impressed:
Is there a special tool, or technique to separating these parts? ( at #2) And how easy are they to reconnect afterwards?
http://i726.photobucket.com/albums/ww269/primedtogo/enginebay.jpg

agent_strangelove
Jun 12th, 2009, 16:36
No special tool, just a special method.... Easy to do once you see how it's done.

There is a small wire clip that holds the ball in the socket. You will have to clean them up well to see what is going on as it's pretty small. There is the end of the wire clip out side of the socket. It wraps around the groove where the outside of the threaded barrel surface intersects the outside of round socket end. You will have to get a finger nail under the end of this wire and open it by pivoting it up clockwise (sort of like unwinding it). It will open about 180 degrees. You will then side that wire clip straight down (away from the ball, parallel to the threaded rod). You should now be able to pop the socket off the ball.

If you are still stuck, I can take photos...


Chris

asneddon
Jun 12th, 2009, 18:54
Mine just came off like Lego.

ClassicVolvoShop
Jun 12th, 2009, 22:06
Chris is on the problem.. There's a little locking function securing the linkage from falling apart.. I've attached a picture of NOS parts - makes it a little easier to see when things are all clean..

http://www.classicvolvoshop.com/linkage.JPG

Picture 2 is of an original SU-linkage setup - what strikes me in yours, Moosejaw - is the angle "A" in my picture - yours seem to me to be way too soft - it should be close to (less) 90 degrees... Your linkage looks home-made (welded up on the middle - so the angles might be off, making things not working right).

http://www.classicvolvoshop.com/linkage2.JPG

asneddon - if yours come apart just with a snap - you should get hold of the securing clips - no fun if the linkage get stuck or fall apart!

Moosejaw
Jun 12th, 2009, 22:42
Cheers guys, I'll maybe have a play with it sometime and see if I can make a difference. I must say I've never encountered clips like these in that type of linkage before...I don't know if it's Volvo or Skinner's Union I have to thank for that one!

I see what you mean, CVS, about the angles being a bit off in mine. I'm not aware of the rod being welded, but since I've owned the car for only 1 of its 40 years, God knows what's happened to it in the past!

It actually works OK at the moment, the only problem is there's this slight pressure needed to get the throttle to open initially from idle, which causes me to sound a bit like a learner driver on his first lesson sometimes! :D

ClassicVolvoShop
Jun 12th, 2009, 22:56
I'm pretty sure that the "too-pointy-angel" from idle (no activation on pedal) on the "1" in your picture, is the problem - you need to overcome the angle instead of an easy move (argh.. a bit difficult to explain, but please follow) - What I mean is, I don't think it's the angle of the "2" in your picture - that's surposed to be slightly towards the valve-cover when idle - your angle of "1" though looks close to 180 degrees - it should be more like 120-150 degrees..

I think: If you have 5-7 mm. play in the linkage "2" - then your problem must be before "2".. = "1"..

Ehhh.. get it?..

Moosejaw
Jun 23rd, 2009, 16:38
I always like a bit of resolution in a topic, so just a word or two to say that I managed to separate the joints (easy when you get the knack!) give both the short rod and the vertical accelerator pedal rod a turn or two each in the desired direction, and now the initial throttle application is much smoother, with none of the jerking I got before.
All good!