Would like to buy. Rust queston.

[jimbobob]

Hello all.
I'm interested in purchasing a P1800. They are really beautiful cars. I don't really know a great deal about classics though so I thought I'd ask on here as there seems to be a wealth of knowledge on this forum. Basically the car seems in great condition overall but there is rust on it. This is mainly around the wheel arches as small bubbles and on the wings. How bad is this? How do I know if there is rust under the shiney paintwork? Also what kind of price are they worth. This one's up for £7000. Thanks for your help.

[ClassicVolvoShop]

Is it red?

[PaulWphoto]

7 grand is a big number for a car that has issues with rust in my opinion. These cars are rather costly and difficult to restore due to their complex construction.

Rust is the biggest concern of all as it tends to start on the inside and work its way out. By the time you can see it on the outside it has usually set in quite deep into hidden areas.

The front wings are a good example of this - there is a major rust trap between inner and outer wing that manifests itself as bubbling on top of the wing by the bonnet. If you can see evidence of corrosion here then chances are that the structure underneath is shot too.

The only way to fix this properly is to remove the wing which - as it is all welded - involves cutting a large section of the car away.

Sills need to be looked at extremely carefully as they too are a real pain in the arse to restore due to their 3 piece construction and the fact that you have to remove so much of the bodywork to see the entire length of them.

A brief list of things to look carefully at with regard to corrosion:

1. Front of wings around headlight area
2. Top of front wings especially underneath by chassis rail
3. Lower rear front wing in front of doors (A Pillar)
4. Sills (the outer sill is effectively just a cover, There should be a gap at the bottom through which you can give the "real" sill a poke.
5. Rear wheelarches - if these are rusty then you need to have a good look at the inner wheelarch from inside the boot.
6. Door bottoms
7. Boot lid
8. The area just in front of the rear wheels (under back seat) where suspension components attach.
9. Chassis Rails particularly by front jacking points and the area where they bend up just behind the engine.

This is just a taster and i am sure that other members will have thought of other areas to have a good look at.

I really don't want to put you off but i would stress that it is very easy to buy in to a project that will bite you on the bum.

[amazondean]

I have been slagged off before on this forum from people with no idea for even thinking about using magnets when viewing cars. I will stress this point again. Always, always, always take a magnet with you and don't be afraid to use it. You will find areas that you would have never imagined having filler are absolutely bunged up with it. Even what can appear to be a very nice car often turns out to be the usual "nock it in and fill it" The only real way to buy a good car is to pay for someone to look at it like Gordon Hunter. The only problem with that is that it is like the metal detector in the farmers field. He has to find ten thousend bits of junk before he finds treasure!!

[jimbobob]

Thanks very much for the advice. The car is not a red one, although I think they look best in red or white and blue. It has a nice paintjob but I think there could be underlying issues which will come back to haunt me. It seems quite difficult to find a P1800 that is priced reasonably or fairly for the condition. Idealy I'd like one that has no rust issues, so I think I'd have to pay top money for that. If I use a magnet do I basically go over the entire body work looking for spots where it doesn't attract? Also is Gordon Hunter available for hire?

[amazondean]

Hi. I believe he is. He came to inspect mine when i sold it and went round it with a fine tooth comb. Believe me he wont miss anything!! You want to PM him on the board.

Regarding the magnet. It actualy takes a bit of skill to be able to know what is actualy a problem or not if the magnet does not stick or has limited pull. The whole car needs to be inspected in all areas mensioned in the above posts. Sometimes there is limited pull if there has been minor dents filled which is not a problem. There is no problem with using filler when it is used right.

My advice to anyone is try to buy a car that has not been resprayed for some time, even if there are a few blemishes. The price will be much less and even if you bought a pristine car it will more than likely sprout blemishes anyway.

The best magnets to use are the extendable pen type, they are the right size and pull. Also use a torch to inspect whats going on under the front wings and areas of restriction.

I sold mine for £7500. It was a top notch car. I thought that it was about the right price but after Gordon looked at it he said it was worth at least if not more than i was asking. The purchaser bought it without even seeing it on Gordons word.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/amazondean/volvo%201800s/volvo1800s003-1.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/amazondean/volvo%201800s/24.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/amazondean/volvo%201800s/23.jpg
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a64/amazondean/volvo%201800s/volvo1800s004.jpg

[Amazonites]

Saw this

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VOLVO-P1800ES-2-0-Fuel-Injected-1973_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3352e34d78QQitemZ2 20433960312QQpt

i see its got Volvo owners stickers on it, so guessing its a known car.
best of luck with your search.

Ian

[jakobandhismakarov]

http://i175.photobucket.com/albums/w130/jessopjessop/canofworms1.jpg

*head explodes*

[Amazonites]

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