View Full Version : Volvo 480 Doesn't Like Wet Weather
fathermaguire
Jul 7th, 2009, 11:09
As some will know I am not exactly the most mechanical minded person alive. My car has been starting fine during the warmer days we've had recently but since it rained Sunday, Monday morning it must have taken at least 6 turns with the accelerator slightly depressed to get it started. There are no running problems since the ICV clean guide on this forum was followed. The one thing i've been meaning to do as advised by an auto electric specialist was the rotor arm needed replacing as he had put in a temporary solution. So on my return home last night before it started raining again I changed both the distributor cap and rotor arm for brand new replacements. This morning although I sped the starting up by depressing the accelerator again it still took 3 turns to start. I know this is picky but I would like the car to start no matter what weather we are having. Any ideas folks, anything else I should change to try and resolve this situation? All help gratefully received, still learning :)
stevo48
Jul 7th, 2009, 14:49
New HT leads, quality spark plugs, is the coil in good condition? if doubtful then replace with new, ensure there is no build up of crud on the coil as this can hold damp, make sure the connectors and cables from the coil are all sound and clean.
capt jack
Jul 7th, 2009, 19:01
Wouldn't have thought you should depress the gas pedal whilst starting, but other than that, if the rotor was shot chances are the plugs are too. Change them - should cost no more than £10, then wipe clean the leads with a rag sprayed (not soaked) with WD40.
Beyond that, a new air filter, fuel filter and an oil change wouldn't hurt, especially if it's not been done in a while
All this is cheap and easy to do, and it can only be beneficial to the general health of the car.
Cheers
Jack
Wouldn't have thought you should depress the gas pedal whilst starting,
Exactly, as it's an injection engine don't depress the gaspedal whilst starting. Do as adviced and replace also the leads an plugs. Best to use NGK plugs, the 480 is very picky on the ignition parts.
fathermaguire
Jul 8th, 2009, 08:42
I've got a set of NGK spark plugs in the boot, so off to get a spark plug remover today. Are the spark plugs likely to be gapped correctly or is it adviseable to buy a gap tool too? Also anyone know what the gap should be please? Also just ordered complete new set of HT leads which should be arriving this afternoon. Any particular order or changing spark plugs or the leads I should be aware of? I do have a Haynes manual but in all honesty it's abit sketchy on the finer details. Thanks in advance.
Normally the plugs are set at 0,8mm which is spot on. When you removed the lead from the plug there is always a lot of debris, sand etc. around the plug. Best is to use air or as I do, a vacuumcleaner to get rid of it so it can't fall in the hole as you remove the plug. Change them one at a time so you can't misplace the firing order. So be sure to put the leads back on in the same order! Best is to number them with a permanent marker and do the same on the distr.cap. Number 1 plug is on the right hand side, the leads are on the distr.cap in the firing order 1,3,4,2. Don't over tighten the plugs, just firm. And put a little bit of copper grease on the plug's thread before putting them in.
fathermaguire
Jul 9th, 2009, 09:02
Just a quick update, thanks to replies on here got the firing order right and the car started very smoothly this morning. Still going to replace the plugs and leads at the weekend though. Just wanted to say another big thanks to those who have responded to any of my posts. Without you I would have been completely not in the know and up the creek without a paddle.
capt jack
Jul 14th, 2009, 17:13
Just a quick update, thanks to replies on here got the firing order right and the car started very smoothly this morning. Still going to replace the plugs and leads at the weekend though. Just wanted to say another big thanks to those who have responded to any of my posts. Without you I would have been completely not in the know and up the creek without a paddle.
That's what we're here for! Glad you got sorted. Taking part in this forum has saved me £00s in repair bills I have no doubt. If you get stuck for an answer, posting the problem on here usually gets a response within a very short time from someone who's actually sorted the same problem.
Having owned a dozen Volvos now, for me there are several things that set them apart from lesser makes: Volvos tend to keep going, even if something is going wrong; Volvos seldom actually let you down flat; Volvos (especially older ones) are not especially complex, and are generally quite easy to fix, and surprisingly not expensive. Volvo maintenance is actually quite straightforward, and with a Haynes, some basic tools, and a logical approach, most hiccups are sorted out easily.
Most important, pay regular visits to the forum. With very few exceptions the folk on here are practical and knowledgeable, and usually right!
Cheers
Jack
Volvo maintenance is actually quite straightforward, and with a Haynes, some basic tools, and a logical approach, most hiccups are sorted out easily.
Absolutely ... people talk about the "moggy" and Escort being great D.I.Y. cars, and while I've never had experience of either, I'm wondering if maybe the Volvo is a sort of latter day version. Anything I've ever had to do with mine has been incredibly straighforward and logical.
Just one thing ... should that be "Despite" a haynes? ;)
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