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asneddon
Jul 27th, 2009, 10:39
A while ago I bought what looked like a nice tappet adjusting toy from here (http://www.frost.co.uk/item_detail.asp?productID=8086).

I finally got around to trying it out a week ago.

First I have to state why I wanted that tool.

When I bought the car it was very tappety, so I took it into the specialist to get everything looked at. This included new oils, general check out etc. One of the things I specified was to have the tappets looked at. They came back saying the cam was worn and I should fit a new one. I had them replace the C cam (this is an early P1800) with a D cam on their advice. The car then spent 6 months getting a full bare metal rebuild, so I didnt get a chance to try the engine for a while.

When I did pick the car up, it was just as tappety as before, even with the new cam. To start with I wasnt sure they had done the work I asked for, but I could tell the head had been off, as the head gasket was nice and clean compared to the rest of it (Also, its leaking oil now which it didnt use to).

I then had another specialist set the tappets, and he told me some of the rockers were worn, but not to worry too much as that happens on them. Fair enough, at least I didnt have to worry about it. I just had a car that sounds like a sewing machine.

Well, I decided to set them myself, so I bought that tool as linked. The blurb was:

Clikadjust tappet adjustment with micrometer accuracy. Adjusting tappets requires three hands – one for a spanner, one for a screwdriver, and one for feeler gauges. On top of this clumsiness, a feeler gauge blade cannot account for wear on the valve stem or tappet face, leading to inaccurate adjustment on older engines. CLIKADJUST sets all this right. This one tool makes the job easier and quicker than ever before, using audible clicks to correspond to thousandths of an inch clearance. You simply close the gap right up and then count the clicks as you open it again. Quicker and more accurate than the conventional method, and so saves time, petrol and power. Suitable for conventional tappets and pre 1968 Fords.

Well, it turns out this bit:
using audible clicks to correspond to thousandths of an inch clearance.

isnt quite true.

You first have to work out how many clicks it is from 26thou down to 16 thou (7 in my case). This is made hard by the fact that not all the clicks are audible. About 3 or the 7 clicks are nice crisp 'click', the other ones range from 'du' to a faint vibration through the handle.

Apart from that, and the general cheapness feel of the tool (which cost £33), it actually works very very well.

The first setup where you work out the clicks makes sense. You add 10thou to the setting you want (16 thou in my case). Then you adjust it down to the setting you want. ie, go from 26thou to 10thou. This ensures that the concave bit in the rocker face is taken into account as you are using the known flat on your feeler guages.

Then I went around the tappets twice to set them. After setting each one I tested with my feeler guages set to 16thou to make sure they all felt right. With two tappets I couldnt get the feeler guages in at all after setting the 7 clicks with the new tool. Rocking the rockers back and forth proved to me that they were still giving the same clearance as the rest though.

I put everything back together, and the next day I had a run to London for the day. The car is MUCH quieter, most noticably when at traffic lights or stuck in traffic on the M25

The car is still working nicely after about 200 miles of fast driving (she CAN do the ton (although the satnav said I was only doing 154Km/h, not the 160Km/h/100MPH the speedo indicated).

I only have a 'chuff' to get rid of, and a whistle from the Simons exhaust under light acceleration and I will be happy with the sound of this thing at last. I no longer feel like Im driving a sports car with a tractors engine. ;)

I would recommend this tool to anyone at about £10. At the £33 I paid I feel a bit ripped off, but then its less than the cost of an hours labour for a garage to do the work for you.

One other thing, you need to find a 1/2inch drive socket to suit (1/2 inch / 13mm). I bought a whole set of 1/2inch drive sockets from Argos for £12. Very impressed with them so far. They seem as well built as most brand name socket sets.

I hope someone finds this usefull.

Alf ista
Jul 27th, 2009, 22:57
Thanks Asneddon. I actually bought this tool as well, based on your earlier post. My car sounds tappety too and it was something I wanted to get sorted. Its good to hear how you got on with it. I will keep those details in mind when I finally get around to using it.
Hugh.

Mike Arnold
Jul 28th, 2009, 21:20
My personal experience (and comments from others) is that the 120 engine does sound tappety for most of the time. I have adjusted them several times and not got much improvement. Maybe I have not done them carefully enough. Maybe there is another knack which I am unaware of. So, until I have undone the Gordian knot I will continue to get comments like, "Is it a diesel?"

john h
Jul 29th, 2009, 06:31
That's a useful write up, thanks. I might get one of those tools.

John

asneddon
Jul 29th, 2009, 07:21
With the bonnet down I have absolutly no tappet noise now. I do have a sound proofing under bonnet kit from Brookhouse fitted as well though (£35 well spent!).

I noticed I had a mistake up above. You adjust from 26 to 10 thou (leaving the 16thou setting), not 26 to 16 as I stated first. Trying to post from your phone while making coffee is never a good idea!

Off topic, but does anyone elses front pully wobble around like a mad thing? I'm trying to track down the 'chuff' I have and I noticed it is about 6mm out of round.

Derek UK
Jul 29th, 2009, 12:58
The "Klick-Adjust", I have an original SPQR one but haven't had it out for ages, works by "knowing" how much increase/decrease to the gap is made as the screw turns. This varies according to the coarseness of the thread and can vary car by car. Mine has a chart with it which gives the valve clearances and the number o clicks needed to match them. Lists A cam as 10 clicks and B18B/B18D as 12 clicks. Does the Frost one have this? £33 is a lot of money. This might be better spent getting your rocker ends refaced/reshaped. Cheaper still if you do it yourself with an oilstone. A feeler gauge will then work consistently on all valves.
This adjuster does help to squidge out the oil between the mating surfaces of the moving parts before you make the gap and that can help but you can fake that by screwing in the adjuster screw first to give you a start point before using a feeler gauge. If the screw then comes out, say, 1/2 of a turn to get the correct clearance they should all be pretty much the same if you set them all that way. Worth experimenting, and costs nothing.
10 clicks is actually about 1/3 turn (30 clicks= 1 turn)so if you screw the adjuster in until the push rod starts to get a litle bit stiff to turn, you can then turn the screw out 1/3 turn for the A cam and a fraction more for C/D cam, and then lock up the nut. It won't be far out and you haven't had to find the feeler gauges that always seem to get lost in the toolbox. Still best to check though.

asneddon
Jul 29th, 2009, 13:55
I think from memory the setting for my tappets was between 16 and 20 thou. I wanted to get rid of the noise, so went for the tighter end of the scale. Besides, I have a B20E head lying around with big valves, I have a leaking (oil only I think) head gasket, and I dont have hardened valve seats. Therefore if I ended up burning a valve it would just encourage me to get lots of head work done ;)

Actually, 7/16 = ~2.3 thou per click
2.3 * 12 clicks = ~27.4thou (providing my math is correct). I'm guessing your original one has much finer distances between 'clicks' (at about 1.5thou (Average(16,20)/12)). If it was also cheaper than mine I would be a bit ****ed ;)

About resurfacing the rockers. I have another whole set, so one day will pick the best of the 16 arms I have to build a nice set. That way I wont lose any lift.

The Frost tool didnt have any booklet or anything. It came in a cardboard blister pack with the instructions on the back. As I said, would have been good for ~£10, but over priced at £33 (I was kind of expecting it to come in a case, like micrometers and touque wrenchs do).

Derek UK
Jul 29th, 2009, 16:06
Just in case people are wondering what we are waffling about, here are some pics. Re the price, I seem to remember I paid the equivilant of £6 at an autojumble in Holland. New but in a rather shop soiled see through pack. However, don't feel too bad, that was about 15 years ago. Came with the chart and instructions, plus a plastic "tool" (shown) for jamming into weak valve springs, to stop them compressing when setting the base position.

This one probably an early one as it isn't called a "Klick-Adjust".

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa179/delukx/R0012526pfs.jpg http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa179/delukx/R0012527pfs.jpghttp://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa179/delukx/R0012528pfs.jpg
http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa179/delukx/R0012531pfs.jpghttp://i203.photobucket.com/albums/aa179/delukx/R0012530pfs.jpg

Ron Kwas
Jul 29th, 2009, 22:53
Forum;

The fact that "three hands are required" for valve clearnce adjustment, has never really bothered me terribly, so I prefer to keep and use standard tools (which are multifunctional, as opposed to highly specialized tools like these, which can do but a single job)...I am happy to notice that the wear of the rocker contact surface is accounted for in the tool...I have necked down my (0.016") feeler gauge to a width less than the OD of valvestem to accomplish the same function. Like so:
http://sw-em.com/feeler_guage_mod_lores.jpg
...more here: http://sw-em.com/service%20notes.htm#Engine

Cheers from Connecticut!