clip replacement
 

if the motor is completely cold, you might get away with winding out the clip all the way, then cutting it pliers and then buying a Jubilee clip that allows you to open it fully...

Sorted my rubbing calipers out today no more noise.

But need to get back under tommorow and bleed the brakes properly as they are a bit spongy but they work

Thanks for the info.
I've got a 2003 and I was planning to flush the coolant soon anyway. I'll do the clips too now
:thumbsup:

Has anyone seen one of these? In over my head?!
 

Stupid question maybe but I removed the cam position sensor on the right hand side of the engine (facing the car) so that would be UK passenger side. I was expecting to just see an end of the camshaft for the VVT side so I could insert the cam locking jig. Instead I see this (picture):


What is it?
Can I remove it by undoing the nut in its centre?
If I do so will this move my cams or anything else out of position?

I'm really stuck and cant get the car back together as I am scared of messing this bit up.

Once I lock the cams I will be able to release the belt and VVT pulley so I can put the new pulley on.


Thanks

:lightning::lightning:

you have to take that off too , it is the toothed wheel that generates pulses . behind is the off set slot which you put the cam locking tool into BUT you also need to get the plastic cap out of the back of the exhaust cam too , the tool fits into BOTH camshafts to lock them in the correct position . You will need a new plastic cap too as they are destroyed removing them .

Thank you. I tried undoing the nut and at the moment it clicks and moves the sensor position hub in the photo attached to the end of the cam but does not come unstuck.

I have applied WD40 and left it over night while I build the camshaft locking tool. I will try again to release it again today.

I was going over the Haynes book and it mentions removing the auxiliary belt before removing the timing belt (under the timing belt change instructions).

As I am only changing the VVT (the belt was changed last year), if I lock the cams and I just want to move the timing belt off a little from the old VVT pulley so I can fit the new VVT pulley in its place, isn't it unnecessary to remove the auxiliary belt?

Also does the auxiliary belt need to be marked and timed with the timing belt? To me it seem s like the aux belt can be removed and reinstalled without any big concern for its positioning apart from its routing. Provided the crank shaft does not move out of position while I work on the cams I suspect there shouldn't be a problem.

Thanks for your answer by the way, I was stuck, so you made my day. I think I might actually be able to pull this repair off now :)

Hi All,

Newbie on here, having just bought a 52 plate V40. Very nice car it is too...

First article I have read on here is this one, so off I went and dropped the undertray, and sure enough, despite the car having an extensive garage service history, there it was, yet another rusty bottom hose clip!

http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...psiglqygbm.jpg

Amazingly, I managed to unscrew it, (after removing the expansion bottle cap to reduce any pressure)

http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps3gxu22yh.jpg

It was very rusted and probs about 500 miles from snapping....

http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...psaapbccks.jpg

http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...psleaema35.jpg

As mine was already a thicker jubilee clip I was able to replace it with a Jubilee 2A which saved me a trip to Ovlov.

http://i650.photobucket.com/albums/u...pshby7bvtv.jpg

Great forum, thankyou :thumbs_up:

PS are these subframes always this rusty?

Nice job eh FastBricks?

One I have to do myself. I have replaced my timing belt before before but my VVT is noisy.
IIRC I locked both pulleys using screwdrivers wedged in through the pulleys. Perfick.

On this operation it may be possible to remove the top cam cover only without disturbing the aux belt so long as you can get to the cam tensioner to de tension/retention it after the job. I was going to lock the inlet cam with the screw driver method again but I don't know if the VVT pulley is under tension when the belt is slackened and it may move one tooth or more. So with that in mind I will have to remove the back plastic cover and somehow just lock the exhaust cam. Then I can undo the VVT. As the new VVT can be put back on in any position it's only critical nothing moves.

So in my opinion removal of the inlet cam cover is not necessary. Lock the front end!

I can't do my job yet as I don't have a plastic rear of cam cover.

Good luck.

Allswede
 

jUST TAKEN THE ENGINE COVER (UNDERNEATH) OFF, THE BOTTOM HOSE WAS VERY RUSTY AND READY FOR BREAKING TOOK THE CLIP OFF THE HOSE RENEWED WITH S/S CLIP. WITHOUT DROPPING THE COOLANT

my beloved T4 has died because of this bloody rusty clip at the bottom hose. could not stop quickly enough on the M60 (it was not safe) so cooked my engine. it looked OK after the AA guy replaced the clip and put some water in the cooling system. drove back home, replaced the oil and coolant. then - mayo in the coolant, overheating, lose of coolant etc.