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-   -   General Information regarding EGR related problems and solutions. (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=127481)

jack3043 Feb 28th, 2013 13:01

EGR V50 2.0d
 
Hi good write up had same prob and it cost me £600.00 to get fixed by Volvo I will now remove the EGR and the air intake manifold and a good clean every 12000 miles or 1 year this is just a piece of mind and keep some money in my pocket THANKS

Funky Diver Apr 16th, 2013 08:40

Looks like I have a job on my list :)

Dieselfan Jul 16th, 2013 17:43

Great article with lots of nice pics.
If you want to avoid fouling up an EGR or Cat, there are two things that seem to help more than just using the correct gear. The first is to avoid cold starts, as the engine burns 2 to 3 times as much fuel when cold and it is during that warm up period that most of the Carbon gets deposited. Using a garage helps slightly, but the real good move is to pre heat the engine in winter. A 250W stick on sump heater cost about 70 pounds, plus perhaps another 30 pounds for the cable, plugs and timer. The cost of the electricity is about the same as the fuel you will save and it's nice to be able to get the heater working faster than normal.

The second thing is to make sure you get a few hours of steady motorway driving in at least every month, as that will help burn most of the deposits off. My V40 1.9D's EGR has been cleaned once in 120,000 miles.

timmytarmac Feb 14th, 2014 23:50

Need help
 
Hi I am having some problems with my 2003 v40 diesel 115 bhp d4192t3 115,000miles.
I have a wooshing escaping air sound when changing gear almost like I have a dump valve and a hesitant boost (on off on off surging) around 2000 revs so it would almost appear I have a leak in the charge air hose's but have checked all of these and cant find any leaks there.

Last year I cleaned the egr valve, New charge air hose from the turbo, oil change (Castrol edge part synth), diesel filter, KN Panel filter, Oil Filter & Cabin filter, Top strut mounts, Alternator and belt, New coolant, New brake fluid plus more and I still have things to do.

Are the egr valve's meant to come apart as like others here mine didn't but should it to be cleaned properly how do you check the opperation?
What should I use as a gasket for the egr valve apart from the metal one?
The turbo boost valve is it also called N75 valve? Can it be checked/cleaned?
The wastegate on my turbo is rusty?
Pressure sensor can this be cleaned? could this be my problem?
I know I have alot of questions I do need saving Im in Redhill Surrey if anyone close that could have a look or give me some good pointers Thanks in advance Tim

skyship007 Feb 15th, 2014 09:06

Quote:

Originally Posted by ciaranr (Post 1225385)
Took mine apart and cleaned over the weekend, pre-cleaning pics attached. I reckon I got an egg-cup full of gunk out of the manifold, although the EGR valve itself wasn't too bad. Mine was impossible to separate, also.

I had the same experience as AAmbro, no turbo for a few minutes until suddenly it was back. It has stopped idling roughly, which was what I hoped for, but can't say I notice much other difference in the car, perhaps it's going a bit better below 1500 rpm though.


Some folks think it's a turbo fault, just the ECU/MAP adjusting the injection system settings, OR turbo boost rate to the new cleaner intake and EGR. The same odd behaviour happens when you change a MAF, CAT or real bad air filter element. I think it takes about 20 minutes to self adjust. After that you get slightly better MPG AND faster throttle response. Even more power if it was a real gunge job.

One problem with some EGR's is that although a good engine might not foul the intake OR EGR (A bad turbo seal fouls the intake and bad rings, injectors or valve guide oil seals foul the EGR, as the intake is more oil than C and the EGR is much more C than oil ash) for 100K km plus, IF the wrong retaining screws have been used (Volvo only) and if they have used a very common cheap brass looking hex head bolt insted, say your prayers before trying to remove the EGR, because if one of those bolts shears due to corrosion, you will have a real long PITA job to get it out. That's why I'm not trying to remove my EGR until I get symptoms. I am getting the intake cleaned every 50K km though.

Warning: Saturday rant follows, so don't read!

Changing tack slightly, if your cylinders get some Carbon deposits, they will burn off fairly easily, BUT it takes a lot longer to burn an EGR or CAT clean of both Carbon and burnt oil ash (Zinc related oil additives are a very slight negative for the exhaust system). I've seen some real life test results on very badly fouled EGR's on truck diesels AND they take at least 10 hours at max continuous power to get real clean, down to just some very minor baked oil ash. It's an Expo curve, so only an hour or two makes a big difference to the EGR and CAT (Some cheap CAT's fail from corrosion in the longer term) if you can get the engine to max continuous power (4th gear only helps, but a very early Sunday morning motorway trip in good weather is more effective).

There are 3 W letters important with diesel engines as follows:

W for WOT (Wide Open Throttle)
W for WTF do you use for oil & filters
W for Why are you starting with your big boots on the pedals (30 second rule)

AND a B for http://www.blackstone.com, as only a used oil analysis can give the best answer as to when to change the oil & filters for a particular block, detect early signs of an HG pin hole leak or the need to clean the injectors with a fuel additive (Might be never if you use good diesel fuel that has some Bio content). It will also warn you about bad types of oil (Castrol Edge Turbo Diesel 5/40, which is a group 3 HC synthetic rated C3 by Acea, is one bad oil, as it doubled my wear rates, Oddly enough Castrol Magnetec 10/40 will give better results sometimes and even basic Mobil 10/40 will do better, so take pity on the poor DPF owners, whilst their exhaust system dumps fuel into their oil or runs up flame thrower fuel bills).

skyship007 Feb 27th, 2014 22:55

Great pics, BUT there are a few differences from the Volvo Vadis program:

Firstly a special Volvo tool can be used to remove the EGR without splitting it in two. It is available from Volvo dealers or the main Online parts companies for around 60 quid, although the ones I checked had to order it from Scandy land first.

Secondly, when using the special hook spanner, Vadis says to drip rust solvent into the flange to try and help it move.

Thirdly, the torque settings for the retaining bolts are fairly low, so Vadis says to use Locktight on all the bolts, along with a new metal crush type gasket.

I've just ordered the special Volvo EGR hook spanner and will post a pic here in about a weeks time.

AlexandrePT Mar 23rd, 2014 22:00

I own a 2003 V40 1.9d with a little over 220.000kms and I gave it a go this afternoon, and the EGR was so stuck, I ended up breaking it.

The wood and the rubber hammer werent doing much, nor was full cans of sprayed penetrating oil, so I tried a little harder!
It did move a little but broke it in one corner...

So now I know I have to get a new one but honestly Im stuck in how to get the bloody old EGR out, because now it doesnt move either way!

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a8/...ps098ce615.jpg

Alexjansen Jul 4th, 2014 11:16

Warning about this tuto
 
First of all please forgive my imperfect english.
I'm having acceleration problems with my volvo S40 (D115 2003, 257000km), the turbo releases massive air flux and the acceleration has become uneven, does like "go, stop, go, stop, go..."

Turbo and durites are ok, so obviously the problem comes from the EGR valve. I Found this tutorial, well made, clear enough, this looked awesome. In fact, this tutorial can either be awesome or TERRIBLE depending on how lucky you are. I'm not lucky.
Biotoxic, you suggest to take off the EGR valve in 2 pieces, first the outer part and then the inner part. The thing is, it's a FATAL ERROR. You shouldn't try to disconnect your EGR valve in 2 pieces, but instead pull the whole out. There are some specific clamps to do it, and I think you could even do this with the chain/key that is used for oil filters.
Why that ? Simply because if your valve hasn't been worked out for years and like me more than 130 000km, the inner part will be completely stucked in the hose, impossible to take out or even make it turn a little, whatever massive tool or super carbcleaner you will use. And that's what's happening to me right now, and I can't find any professionnal willing to take the risk of helping me in that matter.

So, everyone, DON'T SEPARATE YOUR EGR VALVE IN 2 PIECES, but take it whole out with a clamp or something to grab the outer part of the egr valve. (by turning it little by little)

Alexjansen Jul 5th, 2014 11:25

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexjansen (Post 1684063)
First of all please forgive my imperfect english.
I'm having acceleration problems with my volvo S40 (D115 2003, 257000km), the turbo releases massive air flux and the acceleration has become uneven, does like "go, stop, go, stop, go..."

Turbo and durites are ok, so obviously the problem comes from the EGR valve. I Found this tutorial, well made, clear enough, this looked awesome. In fact, this tutorial can either be awesome or TERRIBLE depending on how lucky you are. I'm not lucky.
Biotoxic, you suggest to take off the EGR valve in 2 pieces, first the outer part and then the inner part. The thing is, it's a FATAL ERROR. You shouldn't try to disconnect your EGR valve in 2 pieces, but instead pull the whole out. There are some specific clamps to do it, and I think you could even do this with the chain/key that is used for oil filters.
Why that ? Simply because if your valve hasn't been worked out for years and like me more than 130 000km, the inner part will be completely stucked in the hose, impossible to take out or even make it turn a little, whatever massive tool or super carbcleaner you will use. And that's what's happening to me right now, and I can't find any professionnal willing to take the risk of helping me in that matter.

So, everyone, DON'T SEPARATE YOUR EGR VALVE IN 2 PIECES, but take it whole out with a clamp or something to grab the outer part of the egr valve. (by turning it little by little)

EDIT: yesterday, I tried the car without the outer part of the egr valve. The acceleration problems have completely disappeared, so it's now real proof that it was the EGR causing trouble to the turbo. I still got some air flux "shhhh" when I accelerate, and less power than normal, so the inner part of the EGR is still a problem... and I really can't take it out.

Biotoxic Jul 25th, 2014 00:07

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alexjansen (Post 1684063)
...Biotoxic, you suggest to take off the EGR valve in 2 pieces, first the outer part and then the inner part. The thing is, it's a FATAL ERROR. You shouldn't try to disconnect your EGR valve in 2 pieces, but instead pull the whole out .... So, everyone, DON'T SEPARATE YOUR EGR VALVE IN 2 PIECES, but take it whole out with a clamp or something to grab the outer part of the egr valve. (by turning it little by little)

It comes in two versions, I had a version that is separated(comes in two parts), the other one comes welded or spot welded together. I didn't said that anyone should brake/split them apart if it is one unit :)


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