no worries thanks for pointing it out....

the clips were knackered pete so i opted for cable ties torqued to finger cutting NM...lol
cheers
jod

Hi folks,

well - I did this yesterday. I started around 11am and finished about 8pm - but this involved 2 trips to Halfords and replacement vacuum hoses at the same time.

Guess I'm a slow worker :-) There were a few things I noted as I went. When it came to removing the top hose to the thermostat to gain access to the left manifold bolt I had under-estimated the amount of coolant which would come out - all over the starter motor etc! In hindsight maybe I'd have drained that a bit first.

Other showstopper - whilst I could get all the manifold bolts off with a 1/2" 10mm socket or bend-at-the-neck 10mm ratchet spanner I struggled getting some back on to the right torque. I found the 1/2" stuff was just too wide to fit in the gaps in the manifold and get cleanly on the bolt.

Ended up having to go out and buy 3/8" extension bar, universal joint and 10mm socket. Slightly rounded one of the bolts trying with the 1/2" stuff but got it torqued correctly with the new kit.

Didn't take the fuel injectors off in the end, by the way.

There were certainly oil deposits in the air intake pipe. When I took the oil separator off there was also some nasty thick black gunk in some of the holes leading into the engine. Didn't have any obvious blockages in any of the replaced pipes, and still don't feel any obvious vacuum with the filler cap off at idle :-(

Too early to say if the oil consumption is any better! Did a quick test holding paper over the exhaust and redlined it and no oil spots so here's hoping.

Anyway, the guide was a great help, so a big thank you to Jod.

Cheers, Pete

well done pete...you must feel really pleased with yourself...there is nothing better than doing it yourself....
cheers
jod

re breather pipe and crankcase seal failure
 

anyone tell me, if rear crankcase oil seal is leaking cos of breather pipe blockage/ break, after fixing pipe, will crankcase oils seal have to be replaced?
i have heard of a solution on the market, which u add to your oil, which helps tighten up seals and stops leaks, havent tried this yet, but is there anyone out there who knows if it is effective?

bobcat claims his rear crank oil seal is held together by such an item, i believe forte, who i also beleive have a good reputation....contact him or stuart at sw auto's for clarification...
cheers
jod

Hey Jodders,
My 854R is coming up to 100,000 miles, there was a little bit of oil coming out of the dipstick tube, and two weeks ago i broke the breather pipe fitting my dump valve. Time to renew the breather system. The annoying thing is i had the inlet manifold off last year to clear an injector that had broken onto the inlet valves. Should have done it then!!!! Anyway, started the job today at 11:00 and finished at 16:00. I too decided to change all my hoses and i went for blue silcone too, sorry for copying, job went smoothy and i managed to do it without disturbing the injectors. I also left the throttle body on and just stripped the ancillaries.
Well i checked the holes leading into the block and the bottom one had a large clump of hard oil !!!! cleared that and then checked all the other areas mentioned in your post.
All back together now, and i have a large smile on my face!! turbo feels punchy and picks up well and no oil out of the dipstick tube. Job Done.
Cheers Jodders.

hi georgey...
its always nice when you undertake a project to find that there is a reason why you are doing something, in your case finding the lower seperator hose connection clogged must really have made you feel good....
well done....:Banane44:
cheers
jod

Driving around now knowing my beloved R is breathing correctly is a very nice feeling. I'll print your post so i can come back to it in another 100,000 miles. which won't be long at this rate!!!! And yes finding the blocked return pipe was a good feeling and the oil consumption has gone down to ZERO ! Good as new. Cheers.

Thank you Thank you Thank you
 

This has got to be one of the best bits of information i've ever read. Used to do all my cars but recently the've become to complicated and everything requires a special tool which if you only use once gets expensive. All I need now is the long range weather forecast for boxing day (now i've got a T5 I cant afford a house with a garage) and I'm away. P.S. could the problem of over compression in the crankcase also cause the smoke and smell I get from the exhaust after driving and then standing still in traffic Oil being compressed past the valve seals and down to the piston crowns? Doesn't smoke unless driven hard.

Mike

cheers mike...
the smell of fumes when coming to a stand-still is a tell tale sign of a broken pipe between the pcv valve and the crud collector behind the inlet manifold...
you may want to check your pipework there by gently removing the pipe at the pcv and giving it a little tug....when i checked mine for the first time i was horrified when the pipe came away in my hand.....have a length of garden hose to hand this works as a great temporary sleeve.....
the smell from the tail pipe could well be an indication that the crud collector or one of the two connector pipes to the lump are blocked....if this is the case i would do the work asap, as this pressure is sure to blow the crankshaft end seal behind the gearbox (or rear main seal as some people refer to it) which believe me you dont want to happen....(drop subframe gearbox out)....
when the work is done i would give more consideration to the possibility of stem seals issues...
cheers
jod