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Hi all, sorry for digging up an old thread. But, I too, now have a dodgy fuel flap actuator and I want to get it fixed before I come to sell it. Could anyone tell me whether this 'newer' version would work on my P80 V70 (2000):
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/324235231...RoCTxMQAvD_BwE The only difference I notice mechanically is, a large bracket is not on there when compared to the 'correct' part on Skandix below, but I don't know if this is even necessary? https://www.skandix.de/en/spare-part...r-lid/1041045/ Any help appreciated, cheers! |
Product No: 1041045
Reference: 9152856 Your price: 276,95 EUR incl. 19 % VAT plus Shipping costs What a bargain!!!! Bob. |
Ha, yes it's rather ridiculous! Hence why seeing if those ones on eBay are essentially the same! Anybody any clue if they would work? Cheers, Sam
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These usually get neglected at service time and a build up if crud/road grime, given their location, can prevent the pin from moving freely. Have you tried cleaning and lubricating the drive and pin on your existing lock? Don't use standard WD40 as it's a penetrant...not a lubricant. Try use white lithium grease on the drive and perhaps a light smear of silicone grease on the pin. |
Thanks, that's a good shout, haven't taken it apart yet as I'm driving daily to work, perhaps at the weekend- I think it'll need to come off to do the lubrication you're suggesting right?
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Yes, best removed and carry out the work on a clean bench/table. There may be crud/grime behind the pin aperture that can't be accessed from the fuel flap opening. Relatively easy to remove once you have liberated the boot side panel.
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Cool, yeah that makes sense. Thanks for the pointers, much appreciated!
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Fuel Filler Door:~ Emergency Pull Cord.
Just installed a cord pull on my 1997 V70 petrol estate:~
I would think that similar dated cars are the same. After checking for a factory fitted pull- none is fitted to this model. All is not lost though as you can do this quite easily.. took about an hour and that was taking my time. Remove the lower corner fabric trim panel, twist fastener & pull away. Remove the flat floor section, pull up fasteners. Remove the widow side plastic trim taking care not to force any of the hidden clips- the front needs to slide backwards after the self tapping screw is removed. The small corner front grill like piece once removed will show this. The corner speaker grill/cover should also be removed to allow the window section to be worked clear. The inner wheel arch area should now be exposed- pull the thick rubber padding away (no clips here) Look for the fuel filler door motor- one self tapping screw holds this in place inside the boot and two more behind the fuel filler door, once removed this allows the motor to be pulled away- unclip the wiring harness. Clean the parts & lubricate as necessary. The unit has a pull off tab incorporated into the spring operated sliding bar (emergency pull? but would be very difficult to get at if the filler door failed) Drill a small hole in the pull off tab and thread a length of flexible wire or nylon twine through the same- long enough to reach the tailgate area.. the longer the better, I used baler twine. Replace the motor but use a sealant on the gasket that sits between the body & filler area. The motor can be fiddly to get back into place- use the single inner self tapper to hold etc whilst positioning the latched part into the housing- the two other screws can be installed.. once lined up tighten all screws. (Clean any surplus gasket material away) Make sure the new cord pull is clear and not trapped as you position it towards the rear- I found the small corner fabric piece an ideal place for this with the excess cord pushed behind the same/existing wires. Test that everything is working well prior to reinstating the trim parts- I find a little lubricant on the clips helps them into place etc. You should now have the emergency fuel door opening device that is easily accessed. Hope it helps. Regards Bob. |
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