I shall take a look, thank you BB.

I was told that the primary injector has only recently been done (need to double check the paperwork to confirm). This could be why, I presume, if it was poorly refitted.

Update....We've found rust. :speechless-smiley-5

Overall, the car is quite solid. It's got receipts for main dealer welding work having been carried out a couple of times. I got underneath the car to double check today and it is indeed quite solid.

I already knew about a patch that had been rust proofed (badly) on the o/s C pillar, where the window meets the door; as well as the rear arches needing tending to soon.

Today however, I noticed that under the o/s rear light, there is a hole. I have a feeling, the sound of rust chips falling from the car wasn't my ears deceiving me - that is indeed what happened, as I'm pretty sure it wasn't there when I picked the car up.

Ho hum. I've added it to the list. Thankfully we shouldn't be getting any salt on the roads now for a while at least. In the meantime, I will attack the area with some hammerite to slow the progression.

Unfortunately, funds don't allow for me to instantly fix it. But it is high on my list.

https://i.imgur.com/XRJODQPm.jpg

P.S - The n/s under-light area looks perfectly fine. Also, the tailgate area in general isn't terrible. I've also had a peek under a bit of the carpet and it looks good.

P.P.S - Look Alan! I've figured out how to do smaller thumbnails :cool:

Well done for re-sizing the photos, they are much easier to view now.

I think it is a really good idea to do as you are now: make a list of project jobs at the outset (even if you can't get round to them all just yet). I always start a spreadsheet to record projects costs from the very start: it is so easy to get carried away with spending on older motor cars (and they almost never recoup the costs).

Rust will be your most important challenge, particularly on an estate car. Be ruthless in assessing it now, rather than just accept it as 'quite solid'. Hamerite is a good idea, not only to help prevent further rust, but also to remind yourself where you have found any evidence so you check there again. Anywhere you can see a hole will be much worse underneath, it is like an iceberg. Don't allow yourself to put any bling stuff on the project list until you have the rust and any mechanical and electrical issues under control.

You got your motor car for a fair price, so it should be possible to contain the overall project costs. All the above is just my advice of course; it is up to you what you do with your motor car.

Good fortune,

:teeth_smile:

The smaller thumbnails certainly are much nicer!

I quite agree with you Alan, I have started my usual check-list of jobs to do.

I've just purchased the serviceable parts (all three filters, fresh oil, spark plugs), as well as enough new fuses so that I can replace all of the current ones.

I'm going down to the local dealer tomorrow to discuss a timing belt change. I had asked to have the belts / tensioner ready for collection, but as this is a crucial job (with the car having an interference engine), I would rather err on the side of caution and have a professional do this job. Thus, I am going to discuss booking the car in for the belts to be done.

I shall have to wait until the outcome of that discussion tomorrow to comment any further, but with budget constraints, I am thinking of having it booked in at the end of April - when I should have some more 'free cash'. The timing belt has only done 20,000 miles, but, of course, it is 5 years overdue the 5 year change time - which is a worry.

Although, in saying that, the previous owner wasn't exactly a hoodlum; I am sure it hasn't been driven to its limits.

...Anyway. For all interested, this weekend's jobs:

• Service the car with the aforementioned parts

• Remove the rear bumper and o/s rear light cluster to assess the rust damage

• Go over the car with my pot of hammerite and deal with any areas that are cause of concern

• Apply some heat to the windscreen surround (chrome and rubber trim) and re-mould it. This is because it has become misshapen

It is good that you are making a list.

This isn't a criticism, but I can't help thinking that if you are going to get a dealer to do simple jobs like timing belt changes they you are going to burn through your project budget in no time.

If it was me (and I know, it is not), I wouldn't particularly worry about a 20,000 mile old belt (even of it was last changed 10 years ago). I'd take the cover off and have a look and listen. Tensioners hardly ever wear out and are easy to change also (there is a piece on the RB thread about changing the tensioner that you may have already seen). Another advantage (apart from saving 75% of the cost in garage labour) about doing these jobs yourself if you may assess all these things as you go - in addition you may make sure they are done properly.

I don't know which motor your estate car has, but it is probably a B200a or e - I'm pretty sure it won't be an interference engine, although it would be a good idea to change the belt sooner rather than later I'm not sure there is much risk.

All this is up to you of course Thorne. In my humble opinion much of the point of running older motor cars is doing the maintenance and repairs oneself. If one doesn't know how to do a job it is an excellent opportunity to learn, and there is always a YouTube video by some middle aged chap with a beard to help.

Good fortune, whatever you decide to do.

:shocked:

Thanks Alan,

My initial thoughts were: the belt was done 20,000 miles ago - that is barely run in. However, I started to do some researching across this forum and others, with a lot of people saying any belt over 5 years old is a cause for concern.

It's got the B200e engine in it, which I have conflicting information on whether it is interference or not (some say aye, some say nay).

You have prompted me to give it some thought, I have done far 'worse' jobs in fairness (like a road-side fuel tank swap!); I will definitely be replacing the aux belts this weekend, as they look a bit shabby and make a squeal - but that is something I am confident with.

I see your point about doing much of the work myself, which is something I generally stand by; however, with the motor car being my only mode of transport (and I'd rather not walk 70 miles each day for work), with jobs that could go horribly wrong, especially ones that I have not done before, I'd much rather the peace of mind of having an experienced set of hands available. (Be that a garage, or more experienced friend / relative).

I shall give the timing belt debacle some more thought, either way it shan't be done tomorrow - I simply don't have the expendable cash.

I will keep you all updated on how things go

Well, it is up to you of course. If you get a dealer to change a cam belt for you it will cost £300 to £400. I bought a perfectly good Gates belt for a B230e motor I had for £11.75 and fitted it in half an hour (the motor was out of the car, which made it easier). Your motor car has a manual transmission, which makes the job a bit less challenging though (use the handbrake to lock the crank). You will have to take the auxiliary belts off to change the cam belt anyway, so you might as well leave them and do both jobs (or get your dealer to do it - it doesn’t rake any longer to replace a new belt as an old one).

It strikes me that £400 is a quarter of the purchase price for your motor car, for just one issue that may not be all that critical. If it was me (and it is not), I’d watch some YouTubes and learn how to do a few maintenance jobs - your 240 is a really simple motor car.

In my opinion running older motor cars is largely about an attitude of mind: working out ways of driving, maintaining and repairing them often without the correct tools or parts, within a budget but still safely and effectively. There are lots that disagree with me of course.

:speechless-smiley-5

Thanks Alan; I have indeed been watching some YouTube videos - especially about the timing belt.

I agree with your sentiment in the last paragraph. That is pretty much my modus operandi.

The 240 is certainly on par, in terms of simplicity, with the Volkswagens I am accustomed to.

- Maybe I was overthinking the negative outcomes of changing the timing belt poorly, and underestimating my own ability in doing the job (something I tend to fall foul of quite often).

I have to say I have been lurking for a while and am quite enjoying this thread! All the best in your new Volvo ownership. It is exciting and daunting at times. Overall greatly rewarding.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Redblock_Engine

" All single camshaft versions of the engine with the exception of the K series (B200K, B230K) are of 'non-interference' design, meaning that failure of the toothed belt will not result in engine damage."

If you decide to tackle the cambelt change yourself, the money saved could be put to having someone doing the metal repair.
Or, you could get hold of a cheapish mig welder and have a go yourself.

I might add, that once the timing marks are lined up it's unlikely the camshaft will move (out of alignment) by itself.
Best of luck, whatever course of action you take.