The PAS pump is for the RB, it was not intended for the Amazon! It was a spare I got when I owned my 240 that I came across yesterday. Thought it would be more use to you than me. It came from a very late model 240 and I believe works.

Oil filters may not fit, they were from my dads old boat engine. I believe the thread and outer diameter is the same though.

No idea to be honest Alan, you'd need to contact the sellers and ask about the type of rubber used in the seal for a definitive answer.



Are you sure the inhibitor switch thread is M16 x 1.5mm? Many threads on Volvos back in the 60s and 70s were Imperial and if memory serves, it's a Laycock-DeNormanville OD unit which was a British thing so the case for an Imperial thread is stronger - 5/8"UNF-16 would be likely, if not something very similar. Worth double-checking before you tap that thread! :thumbs_up:



Another good reason is many OD units can't handle the torque in first and second gears under hard acceleration, however many cars were able to use OD on 3rd and 4th, effectively giving 6 forward speeds - 1st, 2nd, 3rd, OD 3rd, 4th, OD 4th so this could be an option too.



A big capacitor would probably have been quicker and more effective but if it's a characteristic of the car, i'd leave it alone. Each to their own and if Alan wants to damp the movement of the guage there are ways and means without resulting to the hocus-pocus of an Arduino board to create a signal conditioner. The trouble is, the more you try and damp the guage, the more complicated the circuit needs to be, including the meter-drive circuit. A small mechanical damper (friction or pneumatic) attached to the sender unit would probably be easiest to implement but means removing the sender unit from the tank.

Definitely worth double checking, but I was the one that incorrectly tapped the hole to 5/8 UNC based on that very fact. 5/8 UNC outer diameter is something very close to 16mm IIRC, so I just went with it only to find I couldn't screw the switch in.

A helicoil is the professional way to do it, but I've also had some success with two part epoxy based titanium sticks where I've needed to bodge
(https://jenolite.com/product/titaniu...UaAvCYEALw_wcB)

You may find you don't need to drop the gearbox out to get the top plate off. Unscrew and remove the selector from inside the car, then from underneath there may be space to get a stubby screwdriver in and remove the six(?) hold down screws.

It's a bit shameful that I never did this really, as the destruction would be massive should the OD engage in reverse. I used to just pull the wire from the relay (behind the dash) when I sent the car off for an MOT to ensure nobody did the "I wonder what this switch does" trick. With the back axle ratio being standard (non-OD) then the risk of reversing with the OD engaged is actually very low - I only tended to use it on motorways and the like, and if you'd forgotten to disengage it you'd realise before you came to reverse. Excuses...

Initial Reconnaissaance
 

I've put GAM up on some ramps and had a look round this morn, here are are my first thoughts.

This is the hole I was concerned about in the OSF chassis rail:

https://i.imgur.com/FSzxYHVh.jpg

I'm not too worried about this, the rust seems to be quite localised so I think I'll get away with just cutting the the rot out square and welding in a patch to the horizontal plane - the vertical walls seem to be solid enough. I've ordered some steel, but there is no point starting to cut out rust until that arrives so I'll just clean it up and cover it over with some Harry Black to keep the weather out for the next few days.

The oil leak I suspected seems nowhere near as bad as I thought it might be - I'll just keep an eye on it for the time being:

https://i.imgur.com/mqvprFPh.jpg

The top of the engine looks dry, which is good:

https://i.imgur.com/jEEbsaZh.jpg

I can't see much wrong here:

https://i.imgur.com/Co3U2xSh.jpg

The front suspension needs a bit of a bit of a refresh:

https://i.imgur.com/S8uHdiEh.jpg

The heater unit has all been changed, so that should be okay:

https://i.imgur.com/YVdbP5Ah.jpg

The inside of the wings seem solid:

https://i.imgur.com/UERQkqqh.jpg

... and it has an alternator, which will save me having to fit one.

So, all in all there isn't too much that needs doing straight away.

Now I'm off to get a tyre for the spare wheel.

:-)

Seeing that heater unit reminded me of our 121 , “Electrolux” branded one on NNU635D.

Priceless!:teeth_smile:

Ah, thank you. I wondered whether that might have been the case. I'll transfer it over to the RB's spares box.

:-)

many thanks, I've ordered a tube of Sikaflex EBT and Mr Bazos will have it sent round tomorrow.

:-)

Understood, many thanks. I may isolate the relay until I get this sorted - I'm the only driver of the car but...

:-)

The relay isn't in the standard place for an Amazon (which is on the OS wing under the bonnet), it is pushed up behind the dash just above the OD switch. The relay is a lighting relay from a 240. I really wanted the proper OD sequencing relay and planned to connect it instead of the headlight flasher, but never managed to get hold of one.

I also have a vague memory that I chose not to wire it in the standard way (i.e. not in accordance with the Volvo wiring diagram) - IIRC the inhibit switch and the OD engage switch both act on the relay coil (rather than having the inhibit switch break the solenoid connection) as I felt this was better practice as the D type solenoid is quite power hungry. You may even find the inhibit wires are already in position just shorted out, I can't remember (it was over ten years ago).

Very good idea and how it should have been wired from new IMHO because as you rightly point out, the solenoid is power hungry and the inhibitor switch and/or OD engage switch aren't really up to passing that kind of current. :thumbs_up: