Factory parts books, workshop manuals etc are all available for download as .pdf files here:

www.volvoamazonpictures.se

& the parts books are also viewable online here:

www.gcp.se

However there are a few areas regarding the panel work which are not especially clear. If you're ordering from Simon at Brookhouse, he's very good at identifying the correct part or panel though :)

Worth also having a look around the webshops operated by the various overseas specialists to see what's available too (iirc, GCP only list the parts that Volvo still supply):

http://www.cvi-automotive.se/

http://www.vp-autoparts.com/

http://www.scandcar.nl/index_english.html

Hope this helps!

You dont know how much that has helped me, thank you very much!

Just regarding jacking up safely, I have a 1.5 tonne trolly jack. Where is the best place to place this, to jack the car up without risking it going through?

Thanks

Tom

Depends where the rust is!!!! If no rust, then the jacking points should be fine*. I occasionally use chassis sections (including the front suspension crossmember), but always with a piece of wood as a pad.

*However if the sills have been repaired, the chances are that the internal reinforcement around the jacking points won't have been reinstated....

A 1.5 ton jack is a bit marginal for safe lifting but lifting the front using the jack under the centre of the main suspension cross member will allow you to put a axle stand under each suspension A arm. Be careful how it mates up with the lower shock mount. Use the same method at the rear. Jack under the diff and then a pair of stands as far outboard on the axle as you can.
As mentioned this is a small jack for this job so pushing the stands into place with a length of wood is a good idea. Don't lean on the car when doing this. Lifting this way takes the unknown rusty body out of the equation.
Work safe!!!

I'd be very surprised if a 1.5 ton trolley jack will reach the diff whilst still having enough clearance to operate the handle. Even using a big workshop jack, the rear overhang gets in the way:
http://x-files.serveftp.com/paulhark...1213.sized.jpg

Wheres the best place to put the stands when there is no front suspension? Im removing it to start doing repairs in those areas.

Hi Jackman, Restoration of my Amazon almost complete. And not that I am an expert in any way but I would suggest you take lots of pictures before you remove anything and label everything you do remove and if you can screw on the nuts and bolts to the appropriate part. I have spent hours going through those tins of bolts, nuts and washers.
VP Autoparts give a good breakdown of parts and prices. Prices will be in Kronor but just divide by 10.5 and you wont be far away.
Rob and Emma at Amazon cars are very good to deal with and Simon at Brookhouse is first class. Their knowledge is excellent.
And don't be afraid to ask on this Forum. There are a lot of knowledgeable, first class chaps here too. We will all be delighted to see your Amazon back on the road.
Keep submitting the pictures here too. Amazing how that can inspire someone to get to work on their restoration.
Good luck to you and if there are parts you are looking for then don't be afraid to ask. Might cost you a few pounds but will be cheaper than the suppliers.

Are you also removing the engine? if so, then the front jacking points or chassis rails under the floor (where they are flat again) should be ok, providing that those areas are rust free.

Yeah removing engine too, its a none runner :(

The floor seems solid, will poke and check before using them though. thanks.

Dibble i have been doing that, although not got too much which is reusable lol.