Quite true, however helicopter rotors are not glued together with the weak S**T that has been used to bond the linings on these rear shoes.

Sperm has more adhesion!!!

Rivets would be better in this application.

Darryl:thumbs_up:

Bonded brake shoes have been the norm now for many years and usually perform well and do not cause problems; however handbrake shoes do not wear like normal brake shoes and therefore do not get changed every 3 or 4 years as a normal shoe would. Another problem is corrosion where water penetrates the join between the shoe and the friction material and causes rust which pushes the lining off, in a traditional shoe used for braking the regular heat build up would dry it out. The obvious solution would be to fit rivets.

Totally agree! For the vast majority of their life these things just sit there in the cold and damp doing nothing other than quietly deteriorating.

RIVETS!!!!!

IIRC a Kevlar weave is used to attach helicopter rotors with a carbon fibre blade, that may work well on brake shoes, if not a little expensive. Yep, no heat = moisure = corrosion = massive bill for me. Good news you spotted yours Greame, saved you a few quid, nice one!

Good Luck out there Hunty.
This is one that seems to come up again and again here. Handbrake shoes wrecking vastly expensive bits of car.
I have asked Rufe today for a price for a kit, discs, pads and springs and I will change mine out (142k on the clock) and post a photo method.
Perhaps we can get it on a sticky and save fellow owners unecessarry expense.
Always worth a word with Salvo Group if this happens to you.
Mail Order and sensible prices.

Stuck!!!

Cheers Graeme!
Speedy Service with a smile! :)

I ordered up all the parts and they arrived today.
Attached has all the part numbers and FRF Prices from Rufe.
Ignore Line 4 "Dipstick" you don't need a new dipstick for the rear brakes. :)

Good call Nick, seems a common problem so it's now up there for all to see and prevents a huge and unnecessary bill. Great stuff

How to do it
 

All pictures from the driver side.
You will need Loctite, Copperslip, and Brake cleaner.
First check you parts list. Pic 0.
Snap off the handbrake lever cover to expose handbrake cable adjuster. Pic 1
Slaken (all the way) off the handbrake cable. Long series 10mm socket. Pic 2
Put car in Park or First gear and chock front wheels. Remove road wheel and support car on axle stands. Pic 3
Locate the rubber covers and plastic cap that conceals the caliper bolts, remove the cap and keep it to one side. Pic 4
Unclip the ABS wire and move it out of harms way.
Pull the caliper assembly towards you to push back the slave cylinder, or use a flat screwdriver between the pads and the disc to prise the cylinder back. You are going to throw away the disc and pads so no harm done. Spring off the outer retaining clip
Using a Hex 7mm undo the caliper bolts. Pic 5
Support the removed caliper so as not to strain the brake pipes with an old coat hanger. Pic 6
Remove the caliper carrier. 14 mm ratchet ring spanner. Pic 7, Pic 8.
Pull the disc towards you and remove. Pic 9
Detail pics of rear and forward views of shoe seats and spring layout Pic 10, Pic 11.
Remove the shoe retaining springs by cutting them off with a pair of wire cutters. Always fit new springs, Lift off the shoes, start with the non handbrake actuator side.( right hand)
This is what you now have Pic 12
Detail of shoe retaining spring mount Pic 13
Clean everything! Pic 14 And have a cup 'o tea.
This is how the assembly will look when assembled on the backplate . Pic A
Small dob of copperslip on all the shoe bearing points.
Refit the top shoe first.
The shoe retaining spring is easily fitted with a pair of snipe nose pliers, grip the centre of the spring, push in and sideways. When it goes in properly you get a very satisfying "snap/click". Check you got it right! Important Pic 15
Fit the spacer bar and small spring with the lower shoe loose, (RH side)
then swing the lower shoe up into place and refit the lower shoe retaining spring.
Seat the LH sides onto the handbrake actuator mechanism, and refit the larger spring. Easiest to hook the spring onto the top shoe, grab the bottom of the spring with a pair of snipe nose pliers, and stretch it down to the lower shoe. Mind you don't get a face full of spring, this is not easy!
It should now look like this, Pic 16
Fit the new disc. Pic 17
Refit the caplier carrier, use Locktite on the bolt threads.
Unhook the caliper, clean, and put a small amount of Copperslip in the pad seating groves. Fit the new inboard pad first, peel the backing from the outboard pad and fit the pads and caliper together onto the disc/carrier. Refit the carrier bolts and replace the plastic caps Pic 18.
Refit the outer retaining clip.
Refit the road wheel.
Gently press the brake pedal until you get "feel" back, to seat the new pads.

Now you must do the other side.

When the other side is completed return to the handbrake cable adjuster in the cabin. Before tightening up the adjuster nut, pull the handbrake up until it just bites and rotate each road wheel to centre up the shoes.
Finally adjust the handbrake cable until you have 3 clicks to fully on.

Carefully road test the car. Full rear braking will take a few (30-40)miles to bed in so dont just go stamping on the brakes and be aware of a slightly longer stopping distance until it all beds in.
Simplees! Enjoy.
Nick.