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Had fun today
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To avoid a situation like this =>
http://www.swapmeetdave.com/Humor/Wo.../ProppedUp.jpg I came up with a plan (that this one man band can do on his own) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524582896 The shell is so light I've just supported it with chunky soft wood at the A pillar and B pillar. The main contact points are on the sill and the roof gutter on the B pillar and this is the more important support point to get right because that's where most of the weight is... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524582896 HD ratchet strap across the width of the vehicle as close as possible to the B pillar ^^^^ Using the engine hoist to clip to the ratchet strap and up up in the sky (in my beautiful balloon) => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524582896 I found that when you get to this angle (what's that 20 degrees or so?) => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524582896 I needed to reposition the body (just by lifting by myself) to reposition the bits of wood on the side https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524582896 Up until now you can see I had time to make photos and **** about The next bit was a bit more intense (!) Still it was easy to just man handle the body into position => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524582896 Now I guess some might be seeing / reading this and thinking I'm likely to damage the body by leaving it like this. All I can say is that I'm sure this isn't going to be a problem (I might drop it righting it back after I've painted the under side of course - but that's another thing!) Still this has saved loads of dosh buying a proper rotisserie thing so as far as I am concerned all is good (in the deep dark wood). ####### Reason why I've done this => Under the bitumin undercoat there's a wee bit of surface rust in some places https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524582896 This needs to be sorted yesterday before it takes hold. |
I did all that work underneath by propping the whole thing about two feet off the ground. This would have been easier than fighting gravity the whole time.
dean |
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This time I was so impressed with the structural rigidity of the PV that I felt flipping it over onto its side was OK especially as it is so light. So far I've removed a bucket of dry mud from the underside. It is nice to know that this time most of that didn't end up in my eyes or my hair! |
Assorted progress
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1) I think I found another upgrade!
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524665192 This little light in the boot looks more like an add on product now I can see it more easily (This is the car that just keeps on giving) 2) Surprising result when I removed the differential caps today => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524665192 I was expecting the differential to fall out of the axle seeing as the backlash can be measured in light years - it didn't - seems to be a lot better than I thought. Now I've got to see about getting a chest expander 3) Even though I've reached that familiar pain barrier when you're removing underseal... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524665192 ...it is when you remove things like this axle bump stop that makes you realise it really is a worthwhile job to be doing. |
Boing! (went Zebedee)
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Springs - I had a go at removing the rust and old paint with wire brushes and then thought about firing up my own compressor for sand blasting and then thought "life's too short"...
...I went to see a local place that does sand blasting and asked how much it would be. Usually he gives a "**** off and don't come back" price but he must be getting used to me! He went soft and said 30 euros for 4 springs so I thought "life's too short" let's see how it goes... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524760341 ...from a distance the results look promising. Unfortunately the rust has taken hold a bit more than I thought and the surface is pitted => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524760341 They do seem solid (and they do pass the uncompressed length test in the manual). I decided to paint them and see how they perform https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1524760341 I'm not 100% certain this is a good choice: Opinions? |
No opinions / comments about the springs?
I am surprised! I thought I'd at least get one "you'll knock the earth off its axis if you do that" response. So OK I'm probably not completely daft and I will keep an eye on the springs if I fit them - but I suppose the questions should be a bit more along the lines of => "Has anyone experienced road spring failure in a PV544" and "Are they known to be a problem" and "If your springs were as pock marked as mine would you bother painting them and fitting them" ???? |
Corrosion is a significant contribution to spring fracture and will set up stresses and strains, particularly at the ends of the coil where it leaves the pressed housing on the seat. I am not sure how effective painting will be in terms of ongoing protection, since the paint may well crack as the spring flexes. Modern springs are coated with a flexible PVC type material.
I can't tell from the photographs posted whether the car looked to have sagged at all, and you say that the spring lengths unloaded, are as specified, but that may not mean necessarily that after fifty odd years, they will maintain their intended length under load. I would have thought that having taken the car as far as you now have, that it would be sensible to replace the springs. |
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...I looked at the specifications in the book but applying a known load to measure the deflection isn't all that easy to do as a DIYer... ...I suppose I know the answer... ...Mumble grumble - bloody budget... |
At least I have saved some stuff today...
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...by managing to rescue a few shims for the rear axle that adjust the wheel bearing play =>
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525019266 They have become a bit rusty so I soaked them in some Rustyco concentrate (similar to Evapo Rust as I have been lead to believe) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525019266 ^^^^ Best to scrub the parts outside of the concentrate (here I'm using the kitchen sink - risking life and limb) - then put them back in for another soak https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525019266 The rescue might not seem like much until you realise how expensive these shims are to replace |
OK question about sun visors
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Can any one identify the type / year / pattern number for these?
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525165376 Side one => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525165376 Side two => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525165376 They are still in pretty good condition and should be a suitable replacement for the spongy black plastic crumbly things that came with the car. I know the sun visors I have are not original - some sort of after market things - but I would like to know about these replacements I've just bought. They look like they are meant to go with a blue(ish) interior but I reckon because of the fading they'll come good with the light brown interior I've got. Still in an attempt to hedu-me-cate myself does anyone here know 1) Approximate year 2) Interior code 3) PV444 or PV544? |
Polite bump for the sun visor question
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They look more like the visors from a PV444 that I had prior to my 544. Are they fairly rigid with some kind of board lining?
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Thanks chaps - they are indeed much more rigid - with a board in them.
They did indeed seem a bit more 1950s than 1960s At the moment there's some chap in the bay of eeee asking 150 euros for a pair https://www.ebay.nl/itm/Volvo-PV444-...OjEyMTM2MX0%3D I must have gotten a good deal! |
Just a few pictures showing...
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...the rear right hand corner repair I've just finished.
Remember the car has been tipped on its side! Starting with a bit of plywood I cut the approximate shape of the bottom of the boot area https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 Using that shape and the mk1 eye ball I made a simple hammer form out of a bit of medium soft wood https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 Putting a bit of oversized Zincor (1mm thick galvanised steel) in between the two bits of wood and clamping them in a vice https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 Ending up with this => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 It was then time to cut away the rust from the body https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 It always looks utterly dreadful. Cutting the new patch to shape and going for a trial fit https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 ####### Unfortunately there has been capiliary action and more rust has formed so more cutting away was necessary https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 I had to make a little repair to the inner panel at the top => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 ######### After some wire brushing and grinding the area where it was rusty was treated to Zinga (!) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 Using masking tape to help cut shapes - a bit like tracing paper but as it is sticky you can transfer it onto new metal more easily https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 ######### I even remembered to punch some holes in the new pieces before welding them to the car to help with the plug welds I wanted to make (the original parts were spot welded but my spot welder doesn't have arms that will fit round the boot lip so plug welding is the only way forward) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 ########### All welded - plug welded instead of spot welded and of course the butt welding around the edges https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 ########### As usual I left the cutting of the parts till the last minute because you can never tell if your exact cut pieces will stay put during the welding (!) So here I'm using masking tape (long live masking tape!) as a guide for cutting => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 The trick (top tip) is to try and not cut all the way through! If you do you will mark and weaken the panel underneath. The trick I use is to cut to paper thin and then use pliers to wriggle and fatigue the last part of the cut so it breaks free. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 A bit more cutting might be necessary https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 ############# Job done => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525369825 The repair does need a small amount of filler to make it gucci - that will be done later... |
Great stuff, very painstaking.
Are you going to end up with a complete paint job rather than the remediation that you originally envisaged? |
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LH rear corner repair has begun
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Roof sound insulation removal
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This has been a pain in the backside. Using a normal putty knife type scraper I did my arm in!
So I borrowed a multi-tool thing https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525539421 https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525539421 That saved me a few days. Phew! Reason for doing it => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525539421 Surface rust forming under the sound insulation (cos of condensation) |
And so it goes on...
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...welding...
...welding... ...welding... ...and this car is really solid! This rarely happens => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525615989 I hardly ever manage to cut replacement metal as close as this - flippin' 'eck (Hash tag showing off as the yutes might say) |
Too sunny for this...
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...but I did go off to do something today
I should have been on the beach! Instead I was scraping bitumastic goo off the inside of the roof https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525699094 Oh how I wish I could go back in time and buy some decent paint stripper - this is taking for flipping ever. ####### Anyway to cheer me self up I decided to make a small modification to the car. I'm not 100% certain yet whether I'm going to do the same to the other side of the front cross member but this was what I was thinking about => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525699094 Just a bit of 1mm steel to cover over the open end. The original cross member tube had holes in the underside but this didn't stop water and muck from settling inside and eventually rotting through. The new part (that I bought at great expense) doesn't have holes in it - so I was thinking seal up the ends and squirt in Dinitrol... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525699094 See what I mean? I think I might just go for half a plastic bung for the other side to make the squirting of Dinitrol easier - but then again I might make it a bit more symmetrical and weld on a bit of sheet on the other end... What do you think? What would you do? |
More goo of course =>
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Today I started to think about how the rear wings are going to go back onto the car.
The vinyl stuff that gets stuck between the two metal parts (body and wing) is likely to suck moisture in between these parts so I want to make sure both sides of this joint are as flat / matched / in contact with each other as much as possible - the plan is then to use a clear sealant to try and battle against the water... ...first step however is to clean up the wings. Goo Goo Goo covered crap again https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525785495 ######## Another thing that is troubling me is how the mud guard stays are going to be - yeah just be! How are they meant to be? The previous restorer(s) / do-er uppers just welded thick bits of steel bar to the body and the wings https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525785495 (I had to cut them to get the wings off of course) The new parts I got from the Dutch KV club are not compatible (!) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525785495 Turns out this bit is the front stay as it is wider than... https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525785495 ...the back one => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525785495 ####### Question => Anyone here got a handy photo showing how it is meant to be? |
I can take some photos tomorrow, we're off out in ours just now, so can't do it sooner.
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You did help with the position of the rear inner wing mud shield - just in case it isn't 100% clear - this time it is something much smaller the brackets on the inner side of the wing and the body Enjoy your trip (in the sun I expect) |
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Here are how the brackets should be, hope photos are clear enough.
Good drive out to the Cotswolds last night, to a quiz organised by Practical Classics mag, most entertaining. |
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#### Practical Classics eh? Hobnobbing it with the rich and famous Did your team win the quiz or did it get a bit "too competitive"? (A bit Ford vs Holden?) |
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The front mudflaps: The angle strip that you have in your picture is a front stay, bolts onto a lug on the inside edge of the wing at its outer end and another lug on the chassis member at its inner. The rubber mudflap then bolts onto it.
At the rear end there are curved splash shields in steel (rusty probably but you can buy stainless ones) that attach to various small brackets between the wing and the inner arch, and the mudflaps, from memory, then bolt onto their bottom edge. They also stop the bottom edge of the wings flapping about too much on rough roads. Hope this helps. |
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Well the inside of the roof is getting close to getting some new paint
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525959990 Just a bit more treatment with Rustyco rust killer and a good sand with the orbital sander and it should be OK. I was planning to put Hammerite No1 rust beater on the bare metal but the tin says it is only good for a maximum 80 degrees C service life - whilst this isn't the South of France I feel this limit is a bit close to a possible maximum temperature in the sun (hottest day of the year etc). So I'm probably going to go for Ferpox 1K instead. I've also got a load of Epifanes 2K zinc impregnated stuff to try out. It might get that instead - indecision indecision ###### In other news - looking closely at the fitment of the rear wing : body interface I've stumbled upon a bit of a difference of position of the edges. From the centre of the car: The LHS of the body edge the distance is 48cm. From the centre of the car to the RHS of the body edge the distance is 50cm https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1525959990 Today I'm too tired to figure it out - but I suspect this has something to do with fuel tank filler pipes on the LHS (Need to measure the rear wing widths) |
Are you sure you've got the centre in the same place both times? Mine are 49cm each side.
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Up top I measured the rear window at the top and bottom and then transposed that position to the rear valance under the boot opening. Despite being totally knackered I'm sure I've got the centre marked in the right place. It is weird I was expecting it to be symmetrical - at least now I have most of the paint off I can see there isn't any accident damage / serious repairs so what ever I have got is how it left the factory... ...still weird though - more investigations to come (!) |
Still haven't gotten to the bottom of it yet
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The "chassis rails" (for want of a better expression) and the position of the panels is as I'd expect - well they are symmetrical =>
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526143629 It is harder to see on the RHS because of the spare wheel well but if the chassis rail were to be extended it would end up at the same place and the LHS => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526143631 So this means the rear panels fit between the rails in a symmetrical manner Hmmm Tomorrow if I get the time I'm going to measure some more |
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Whilst the derusting and under seal stripping continues I've been obsessing about the straightness of the sheet metal joint under the sills =>
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526315128 Here I'm just using the flat part of the joggler pliers (not putting in a step!) This kind of thing is one of those jobs where being critical can take over - be warned. ####### I've also sourced some nearly new springs for the front and also a hub for the rear https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526315128 I might have managed to save a bit of dosh for the paint job |
A hammer and dolly is more satisfying for doing those edges.
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The benefit to clamping and firmly squashing is that you are less likely to make more of a mess than what you started out with. I reckon this is particularly the case for someone who may not have much panel beating experience. Two blocks of hard wood / two short lengths of angle iron and a couple of G-clamps would probably be quite successful for something like this too (thinking of a solution for someone with the most basic of basic tool kits) |
The one-man flip trick seems to be working
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Today I righted the car body back onto its jacking points and then flipped it back over onto its other side =>
https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526477623 Whilst it isn't as convenient as a proper rotisserie / spit doing it this way has saved a whole heap of cash. |
Little diversion from the constant underseal removal
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To cheer myself up a bit I've been messing about with making an axle case expander instead of just rubbing wire brushes over the underside of the car.
[ Aside: An axle case expander is needed to allow safe removal of the crown wheel assembly / differential and also to make sure when you put it back in the axial bearings are pre-loaded to the correct amount. The pre-load comes from expanding the axle case so it presses up against the bearings. In the US of A these things are easily bought on the bay of E, as over there solid back axles and cart horse sprung suspension systems are de rigueur. I too could have bought one for about 150 USD and then waited a few months for some chap in a canoe to paddle it over to Holland for me and then make the Dutch tax man very very wealthy - I imagine this tool sent from the US of A would cost from about 250 euros - so making one myself quickly became the plan (!) ] I started by going to my local friendly fabrication shop where they let me buy small quantities of steel {instead of having to deal with steel handlers and their minimum quantities and delivery). One design limit was that I needed to cycle back home with what ever I bought and I needed about 2 meters of solid rectangular bar. They had some 50mm X 20 (ish)mm stock I could have with a bit of round solid bar (diameter 22mm) for 20 euros. Bargain. It wasn't too heavy and I only scratched three cars cycling back... ...so that was nice... ...the rectangular bar got chopped up into the lengths shown below https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526566995 The long lengths are 35 cm The short lengths are 14 cm I also invested in a bit of M12 coarse threaded rod and a few M8 bolts. The M8 bolts needed to have a nice bit of shank on them (so threads don't dig in and wear holes / shanks bigger than planned) https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526566995 Drilling holes in the ends of the rectangular stock on the pillar drill => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526566995 I think it is relatively important to drill these holes on a pillar drill - not only because a hand held drill would mean it would take ages unless you have the weight of Geoff Capes behind you - but also drilling straight is pretty hard to do! Straight - orthogonal - holes in a pinned structure like this are pretty important for an aligned end product (!) Here's a trial fit => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526566995 ^^^^^^^I'm also working out the positions of these small pieces of the puzzle and some end caps (made from the same rectangular stock) to make sure there is enough room for an M12 washer to spin between the sides of the structure. {As you will see in a bit} One end of the expanding part needs to spin whilst the other end needs to have a tapped M12 hole => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526566995 Here's a shot of the first of the end pieces welded into place => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526567660 (Note: I'm not being overly fussy with the welding! I'm just stick welding with 6013 farmers' welding rods - got enough penetration despite only having smaller 3.2mm rods - I would have preferred 4.0) Finished (for now) expanding part => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526567660 The double nuts on the threaded bar are locked together. The threaded bar can rotate / spin on the RHS part of the expander /clamp Whilst on the LHS part (as shown in the picture above) the threaded bar can go in and out of the newly tapped M12 hole => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526567660 ########## Right: The other side of the "square" will remain rigid - all of the adjustment of the expander is done of one side. https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526567660 ^^^^^So after all that - I finally show a picture of what I am approximately making! {I bet for some it has been "WTF is he doing now"} https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526567660 ######### It still isn't done yet however - the round bar needs to be fitted to the side of the square expander (as shown in the picture above). The round bar(s) locate in special locating holes in the axle casing - from where the 'ole will be stretched Here I'm making several vertical holes in an almost semi-circular shape so I can weld the rods nicely to the rectangular stock => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526568199 And then slicing out the waste bits with an angle grinder https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526568199 I made sure there was quite an OK gap so I could get good weld penetration between the rectangular stock and the round bar. Mounted in a corner clamp before the buzz box treatment => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526568199 Again despite the use of farmers welding rods (I don't care what you say I love welding MMA!) I got the round bar to be nice and orthogonal to the rectangular bar https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526568199 And there we have it => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526568836 ######## How to use it ######## Fitted to the axle case => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526568590 And with a DTI => https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/attac...1&d=1526568591 Today I only had a few minutes to play with the new toy. I get the feeling the DTI set up isn't going to be reliable enough (as shown in the last picture) to get an accurate reading of the distance of which the case gets expanded. I reckon I'm going to have to come up with a different measurement position - so - to be continued (I'll let you all know how I get on with it) |
I forgot to say the tool in the post above is meant to do the same job as SVO 2394 (a circular affair shown in chapter 04.6 in the workshop manual)
The distance that the case needs to be stretched is between 0.13 and 0.2mm I'm hopeful that the hardware I've chosen to use is going to be up to the job I've just got to find a way of squashing the DTI further into the casing to make a direct measurement of the stretching - this is very important to get right because if you go past the 0.2mm there is a chance that you exceed the elastic limit of the casting and deform it |
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