Volvo Owners Club Forum - General: - Common S60 Problems

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- - General: Common S60 Problems - Solutions Only (https://www.volvoforums.org.uk/showthread.php?t=40932)

Haynes S60 manual_any good?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alpha206 (Post 271205)

Haynes Manual for S60
****update....The S60 Haynes Manual is now available to order - Book No. 4793.****

For those of us who don't yet have the tech-skills or adventurous spirit to go down the VIDA-DICE route an old-fashioned paper-manual may be the answer...

I was wondering if owners who have this could kindly comment on its usefulness. I've noticed it covers S60 between 2000-2008 and there are significant differences in component-layouts across variants during this period yes?

I've got a 2007 S60 2.4 D Geartronic 6-speed AWD (163bhp)

1. Would the diagrams all be overly generic and I'd be left guessing no better than without the manual?
2. Is it very US-centric the cars over there seem to be somewhat different from those sold to rest of world?
3. Has anyone found this to be really helpful with their S60 here in UK?

Thank you!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by barrybritcher (Post 2202126)

Incorrect. It's supposed to lock after 15 SECONDS.

The lock delay for the fuel flap can be set with vida and you can have a delay of up to ten mins.

Srs airbag system service urgent

Had this dreaded error on my 2002 S60 D5, here are some tips applied for fixing mine.
1, disconnect battery
2, remove driver's airbag and check the continuity and resistance on the steering wheel squib module. I found that on full lock to the right, the resistance went allover the place on mine.
3, if applicable, disconnect the connector on the driver's seat, locate both ends of the loom and again, check continuity and resistance through the circuit. The seat's movement can eventually cause the wiring to break and show high resistance.
4, Inspect the Airbag Control Module located in the centre console. Access by removing the trim pieces down both sides of the tunnel, pen holder, gear stick surround, coin holder and main console. ACM is a small Bosch component with a large multi-pin connector. Unplug it, check for tarnishing on the connectors and for any signs of liquid ingress. I found mine had several dry joints inside it but I wouldn't recommend going any further if you don't know what you're doing here. I located an S60 in a scrappers in Leeds which had the same airbag setup in it and after matching the part numbers I bought the correct AEM for <£10 and the steering wheel squib for the same.
Note: VIDA will clear the faults from the system but the replacement AEM will show a comms error with the CEM. Volvo will be able to fix this for circa £100 (based on Volvo in Leeds) by running a software update on the AEM and configuring it to your vehicle's existing CEM. They did argue the toss this wouldn't work, but it did.

Quote:

Originally Posted by D4nny392 (Post 2254875)

Resistance testing the airbag system is a very bad idea.

Quote:

Originally Posted by fogster (Post 1444889)

Upon accelerating hard in D5 (mine is a 2003 V70), you find that the car's power suddenly stops pulling around 2-3000 rpm, with the car very reluctant to climb above that (mine was accompanied by the sound of someone trying to such an orange through a hosepipe!). However, when accelerating gently, the car pulls cleanly all the way to the red line. The collapse was accompanied by the "Engine Service Required" warning which cleared upon an engine restart.

The problem was not the intercooler, turbo or anything other expensive - it was the turbo inlet pipe. It had gone soft with age and had split; when accelerating hard the pipe was collapsing, starving the turbo of air. Accelerating gently meant the pressure was never enough to collapse the pipe. The pipe is only about £50 and a relatively easy fix - on my car, I could actually see the split before asking my local garage to swap it whilst in for a service (they only charged me for 30 minutes labour to do the job as they were doing the cambelt at the same time) - and that's my Volvo main dealer (Johnson's of Swindon).

I've written up the location on the attachment as the pipe is a little awkward to find but easy once you know where it is. I'd guess you could easily do this yourself (I was being lazy as the car was going in anyway).

Hope this helps!

Unfortunately I don't think this is the cause of my problems :(
Hose is soft but not perished or split, incidentally how do you remove rocker breather hose/sensor from turbo inlet hose?
First thing I did when I got the car was give it a service, for 1 glorious test run it went as it should, I checked the oil, topped up to line & back to this problem. Display shows engine service required

Doesn't always work. I had a Thor alloy locking bolt attacked by a maniac with an airgun changing one of my tyres. I was having a smoke at the time - smoking kills alloys!

I took it to 4 garages and all of them mangled their bolt extractors. I ended up taking it to an engineering shop who saw the problem as a challenge. After working on it for 5 hours with an array of welding gear they couldn't get the bolt off.

They managed to save the hub but the alloy they had to cut to pieces to get the bolt out.

Solution - don't use locking wheel bolts ever. And go to a place you know that refuses to have airgun things on their premises.

Don't know if I'm in the right section as I'm new to this forum but can someone help please.My stop/start isn't working and looks like me slave battery is dead.i believe that there is a 70 amp fuse connected to the battery which i believe it could be a charging fuse.Also can I just replace the battery .Its a 2012 S60 D3.Nice motor.

Quote:

Originally Posted by PazBalzano (Post 2274373)

Don't know if I'm in the right section

This section is for the earlier P2 models of S60.

You need this section.

hi cheshired5
sorry to jump on this thread,but are you sslling laptops with vida and dice pre installed
thanks

Solution I found to knowing which brake pressure sensor to replace if and when the time comes, clear fault code then unplug one of the sensors, ignition on and press brake pedal, read codes again, if same bank code reads then it's the other sensor, can be confirmed by reconnecting the sensor and repeating, just this time disconnect other sensor, it should then read a fault with the other bank as well, the thing to note is the code won't read until the brake pedal is pressed