Split type cv boots
 

Anyone tried them? I am sorely tempted as my o/s inner boot has just split - not sure if it was a casualty of doing the reluctor ring but assume it must have been on its last legs anyhow.

I really don't fancy taking the whole assembly out and whilst I know there will be nay sayers (who probably have never tried them or bought a kit at the lowest price from eBay), this looks both easy and robust!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iLrGNU_t83Y

I've had success with them, not on my volvos tho but other vehicles. Be aware the glue is extremely strong like stick your fingers together for life strong!

The "Hippo red" ones seem to be good - any idea whether it's an 80mm or 90mm diameter boot on a V70? Thanks

Just in case you've not come across them, you can swap the whole shaft complete for £50.
That's what I'll be doing if ever a boot goes. Changing boots is too filthy and too much of a pain in my eyes.
http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/volvo...int-1997-2007/

It all comes down to the rubber quality. I had cheap rubber splitting in less than 6 months.

As for the glue, it melts the rubber to glue the parts together so it should be solid. Definitely watch your fingers it glues instantly

The clamps (bands) seem weak

These are a hit or miss depending on your abilty to glue it up properly, but they are a great time saver and definately worth trying out.

They have a tongue and groove edge, which actually reminded me of a recent Ikea offering.....

*Lesbian beds, no screwing or drilling, just tongue and groove.......:hidesbehindsofa:

[QUOTE=4candles;2018521]These are a hit or miss depending on your abilty to glue it up properly, but they are a great time saver and definately worth trying out.

They have a tongue and groove edge, which actually reminded me of a recent Ikea offering.....

*Lesbian beds, no screwing or drilling, just tongue and groove.......:hidesbehindsofa

Hahaha

Who's on the wine now?
You seem to have lost the ability to do simple tasks like 'quote', teehee

Try the Bailcast stretchy boots, easy to fit and I have had great success with these. They are easier to damage when you are working down and around there but just be careful.

I've seen those and they look good.....the Hippo Red ones cost a bit more but look to be just that bit better so I'll take a punt on those.

The car has 160k on it and to be honest, I'm now into the realms of keeping it going rather than worrying about everything being perfect (i.e. I don't want the time, hassle or cost of doing it [in some people's minds] 'properly).

Between changing a complete shaft and the boot only, which are you thinking is the more expensive and time consuming?

You're working on the assumption that the Hippo Red kit won't make a decent repair.

It will, so go for it. It was designed specifically to save spannering, thus time, and also will avail yourself of the rare but potential 'shaft stuck in hub' scenario,:thumbs_up:

He's just done his rings so he knows the shaft isn't stuck.

Not at all.
I'm sure it will be fine so long as your split boot hasn't let in abrasive debris.
My point is that replacing the complete shaft for £50 is arguably easier and you have the bonus of 2 brand new inner and outer joints.
Fair enough if it's not the route you choose but it's handy for anyone else considering similar.

But a handy and cheap circumvention for anyone who has a stuck shaft and split boot...:lightbulb:

If you have penetrating oil and a hammer, you won't have a stuck driveshaft.
It has a rubber washer protecting the rear of the hub and the bolt washer protects the front.
They're not prone to seizure.

So, anyway... replace your damaged CV boot with a nice cheap easy to fit split boot kit whilst keeping your perfectly servicable and probably genuine shaft or spend £50 on a cheap non OE shaft from god alone knows where...and to that the added effort of actually removing your shaft against the option of NOT. i know my preference.

Well, on this occasion everyone is right.....yaaay!

As the boot split when I was doing the rings, I can be fairly certain that a Hippo Red split boot and some fresh grease will be sufficient.

If the boot had been split for some time and I had doubts about the state of the joint, I'd definitely consider a refurbed assembly as suggested.

All solutions are good in my book:thumbs_up:

What I would suggest is that anyone doing their rings take the opportunity to thoroughly clean the sensor with a toothbrush and some brake/parts cleaner if, like mine, the sensor seems unwilling to pull out from the top.

My rings really didn't look that bad but it's hard to know how 'bad' they have to be to start throwing faults. I'll only know over the next few weeks whether the problem has gone away but for now, there's no fault light.

My mobile mec fitted bail cast stretchy ones on my 850. One split after 6 months or so. Both shafts were stuck/seized but he sorted it eventually.
I fitted a tongue and groove split boot, but it only lasted around 4 months.
The joint became noisy so I got my mobile fellah to fit a jandr replacement complete with boot kit. Took him about 40 minutes.
On my V70 he replaced a CV for me. Mine has the plastic ones. That took him about the time it took me to brew him a cuppa.

:Dancing_biggrin:

:lala::lightning:

There seem to be cheap sh*t split boots and better quality items. True I have no experience of them but reading reviews and watching the video, the ones I mention do seem to be a good solution.

Definately worth a punt, keep us updated anyway.:thumbs_up:


ps. Top Tip= whichever end you start the glue-up, just put a single tack of glue in first and let set, then as you apply the remainder the boot groove will remain true and not mis-match. Also do an inch at a time.

Fitted a split boot to a Passat last year that was used as a Joe Baxi. It came with a small packet of what appeared to be face mud, but in it went anyway. Took around 15 minutes all in, but I knew that the boot was already on borrowed time even though it was new. The two locking clips were made of heavy duty tin foil, and there was no sign of a tongue or groove anywhere on what was probably the cheapest universal boot that one could possibly acquire on ebay. 3 weeks later and I was getting accused of incompetency by the taxi driver, as the face mud had decorated the surrounding area in a rather interesting looking centrifugal splatter pattern. Swore never to fit a split boot again unless it was a half decent one.

Pfft:thumbs_up:

It has occurred to me that using the same method of accessing the hub as the reluctor ring replacement (unbolting the strut), I could equally use a stretch CV boot and replace in situ, which does away with any concerns about split type replacements not bonding properly.

True, but it reintroduces the concerns over the thinness of the stretchy boot. Kira (T&G FOREVER!)

Well, nothing is ever simple is it!

The Hippo Red people don't seem to reply to emails or their FaceBook page.

I'm not sure about the suitability of stretch ones as they all seem to be outers and GSF reckon it's a "tri-something or other" that features special rubber bungs internally????? Eh!

Ringing around various suppliers...is drawing a blank: they all seem to be staffed by disinterested people who can barely grunt down the phone:err: J&R were particularly unhelpful.

How hard can it be!

So which are the decent ones ?

presumably not the cheapest on evilbuy ?

Seems to me that Hippo Red ones are not easy to procure....
if your intention is still to try a split kit then this may be as good as you need.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UNIVERSAL-...#ht_1189wt_961

Will get you on the road anyway i'm sure!

* Something i have not tried but may also work on a cleaned up boot is self-amalgamating tape on a bed of rubber glue, particularly if the damage is on one of the raised crowns...?

:thumbs_up:

Might look at that...might try and find a stretch kit.

The reason for wanting something relatively straight forward is time, ease and the fact that the car has 160k on it - I want another year, maybe 2 out of it and then I'll be getting rid. There comes a point when wanting everything to be good as new and perfect ceases. Same approach when the heater matrix went...dashboard out or cut a hole in the cabin filter box and then epoxy it all back: easy choice.

Did my inner CV boot with a stretch type and cone...easy, but I will re-do the clips next weekend having ordered some proper 'ear type' pliers.

If I was doing it again, I'd go for an original boot. Now that I've done it, it's not a horridly complicated CV joint - it's a tripod style CV joint with a three-legged cross or trunnion with roller bearings on the end. I reckon I could easily remove the circlip, slide the 'rollers' off and simply slip the new boot on, as the joint comes easily apart anyhow (with no horrid risk of bearings everywhere due to the trunnion design)

How much was the boot and where from?

I have used the sticky boot with success.Tried to get a stretchy boot which used before but they seem to be replaced by the sticky .You think this never going to work, but if you follow the instructions ,they don't arf stick .
Be careful you don't end up in A&E with sticky boot attachment .

Bought this in the end - seems decent enough. You need to cut and retain the 'tri-lobal' bit from the original: sounds odd but makes sense when you see it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4006149828...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I have bought some of these to re-do the clips as ordinary pliers or pincers aren't right for 'ear' type clamps http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1916087890...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

All I have to do now is sort the bleedin' ABS pump:realmad: