ABS controller fuse - where?
 

Can anyone shed any light on where this is?

I've removed the panel under the steering wheel but it's not there near the bonnet pull.

It's a RHD car, 940 d24t estate.

The fuses are all in the centre console behind the ash tray and there is another fuse on the ABS block itself under the black cover that says ABS on it.

What's wrong with your car?

Thanks for the speedy response.

The car failed it's MOT on a lack of ABS bulb on the dash. I've put a bulb in and it's on permanently, don't even need to move the car for it to come on. Have read online that these fuses are prone to issues so I thought it would be something simple to check.

I'm talking about this fuse

https://images.app.goo.gl/ZNCimNhCFf3WmzWJ6

More than likely a knackered front wheel sensor. ABS light is on all the time if that is the case. Bulb has been removed to get through the MOT.

What's the process for testing those? I've seen things online saying take a resistance reading and it should be between 600 & 1500 ohms? I tried that on all three sensors and didn't get a reading at all. That's what made me think it might be something central like a fuse.

940 tic auto 1995 .302000 miles
 

I have the same car as you for 23 years now I had to replace 1 front ABS sensor not a bad job really .I found my problem with the fault finder under the bonnet on right hand pillar .I would get a new one of ebay about £25 Lexmark brand then disconnect each one in turn and try the new one the ABS which is broke will tell you . I can guide you further on this issue .my email is jimliddy1@gmail.com. then possibly talk things through plus a few other tips on these engines .
Regards jim

You need a specfic code reader if your car is 96 onwards ( vould be late 95 as well ) Or as Jim as stated the code box near the front strut under the bonnet

I don't think my car has the diagnostic port on the turret. Would it have an OBD2 port instead?

What year is it ?

https://www.volvoclub.org.uk/faq/EngineOBDCodes.html

If it's a 95 onwards the not quite OBD2 port is in the centre console. You will need a homemade reader to get the codes though

Am I wrong In thinking just get another ABS sensor try it on both front plugs that will tell you which one is faulty mine did that for me no problems for 2 years now don't waste money on expenses brands only my thoughts

Fuse
 

Fuse 24

N Reg so 95? Is it hidden away somewhere in the centre console? I haven't come across it whilst looking around. The car is new to me.

It's an option yes, I just assumed it wouldn't be that simple. If it was just a sensor why would someone have pulled the bulb? It'd be easier to replace the sensor.

Correct, I've checked that one and it's all good. I'd just read about a second fuse elsewhere.

There is a little panel at the bottom of the centre console in the middle. Pop that out and you will see the connector. If the PO didnt know how to find that or have a specific code reader it would be easier to just remove the bulb and hope an MOT tester thought the car was too old to have ABS

Changing the wheel sensor can be a bit of a pain as it will be rusted in after the best part of 30 years. The bolts holding it in will be buggered and you will have to chisel the old sensor out of the bottom of the strut

Mark its not a bad job .I found it easy to drill out the old sensor .and clean the hub hole up with a rat tail file. My car is 1995 model so has the fault finder set up .probably biggest job is getting the wheel bearing off its a big nut . The sensor fixing bolt after being well oiled with WD40 . It's too risky to hope the MOT inspector miss the ABS bulb being disconnected. Then have to go through the whole process so .Best to do the job right 1st time

Hi Dean if the D24 is new to you there are a few things unique to this engine . I can do a lot of basic maintenance .but not the cambelt injection pump .waterpump.idler and tensioner job . If you are certain this job has been done within 60000 miles then all OK if not its imperative its done ASAP a broken cambelt destroyed these engines dead!

I know what you mean Jim but It's not quite as easy as unplugging a sensor. I was putting in two refurbished struts so I removed old sensors in my garage. Bit more fiddly on the driveway with strut in place. I can see why the PO thought it was easier to remove the bulb if not mechanicaly minded

LED lights?
 

No LED brake lights by any chance? No cruise control problems as well?

Yes the belt has been done in the past couple of years so it's all good on that front.

The car doesn't have cruise as far as I'm aware. Nor LED brake lights. Unless you mean the central brake light which does work.

Hi does car start 1st time every time .these engines always do if timing is correct .bit of blue smoke for 30 seconds and then gone. Bad starting is normally .GLOW PLUGS or timing. Oil should be now fully synthetic .5 w 40..have you been on the D24.com American forum its excellent forum too !

I suspect it has a poor battery but generally it starts ok yes. I've had a quick look on d24 and I think I'll be in need of it soon to sort some other issues.

Had a look in the centre console just now, it does have the OBD 1 port so it looks like I need to make a reader.

Alf ( aka Loki the GLT ) on here makes them and may even have one ready made if you're lucky ! He's a top man :teeth_smile:

Yeah spotted that on another thread. I've sent him a message to see if he still makes them. Sounds like it would cost me similar to make one myself.

Never heard of a d24 with a OBD reader .so interesting stuff if it has .can you post a photo of it .?

Here you are

Https://ibb.co/7W3kZRF

So that replaced my 2 black boxes on the right hand pillar next to the ABS unit under the bonnet Dean .that's interesting . Have you thought about just buying another ABS sensor plug it in to each side and check ABS light .as I'm thinking 1 of the front wheel sensors has failed after 27 years of salt and grime .

The magic box of tricks says the code is:

1-5-1 - Left front wheel sensor: open circuit or short-circuit to battery voltage.

New sensor time.

EDIT: Presumably front left is UK passenger side?

Just as I guessed Dean there's been a few on this forum if you need advice on doing the job please get in touch .I'm a carpenter and I did mine ok pick a nice dry day if doing job on the drive like I did o and plenty of tea .regards jim

Yes unfortunately everything's going to be done outside. At least the weather seems to be improving, I think I'll tackle it the week after next. Got the centre prop bearing to do at the same time.

Hi Dean .have you removed the wheel bearing on one of these cars ..if not take car sliding it of the hub use both hands to keep it clamped together as I had a issue it managed to come apart if it does it only goes back together one way hopefully that won't happen ! What brand of ABS sensor are you thinking of buying?
Regards jim

No, I've watched a couple of videos of others doing it and I'll have some tipex on hand to try avoid unbalancing the driveshaft.

Not sure on brand. I priced up genuine parts at Brookhouse and it came to £120ish. Meyle bearings and a Lexmark sensor from.ebay came to about half that. So probably the cheaper option as this isn't all it needs for an MOT unfortunately.

Think I've seen lex mark ABS sensor for £27 mines been fine for over 2 years .I used a 5 mm drill to drill out the old sensor it came out in little bits .then I used a rat tail file to clean out the rest of the rust once the hole is rust free a smear of silicon grease .it fits like a glove

Hi just seen my LEMARK brand ABS sensor on ebay £20.99 cheaper now than when I got it !

Cheers. Been away for a week so I'll get one this week and fit when there's a gap in the weather.

It's not a bad job I found some utube videos too which help.
If you need a bit of guidance just ask

The old sensor will be stuck solid rusted in so it's best drilled out.
Start with 4mm drill .bits built up to 10mm ..

If you do drill it then be careful as the hole isn't the same size all the way through, there is a seat. It shouldn't matter really as there is the bolt to hold it in place but I assume it helps prevent crud build up, I personally removed them from my spare hubs by heating the hub with a blowtorch to melt the plastic and then just used a pick and a rat tail file to remove the last of the plastic, it took about ten minutes per sensor.

The last time I removed an ABS sensor I just broke it up with a screwdriver and prised the bits out. The best tool in my experience for cleaning up the hole is a 10mm Flex Hone. This fits in a drill is available in various grits, like sandpaper. I think they are designed for cleaning the barrel and chamber of firearms, hence are much easier to find in the US than here. Good for the slider pin holes in the calliper bracket too, but I think 8mm or 9mm is better for them.

Good comments Forrest..all the drilling did for me was to remove enough of the old sensor so it broke up into bits as the rust in that area was pretty bad .the ream tool sounds good as long as non of the actual hub is ground out ..I removed the wheel bearing too .did you ?

O Google reaming drill bits .there's a good choice of tools there for the job !£

Well I got the sensor replaced today, what a job that was...

Sadly it didn't entirely fix the issue as there is now a code 1-5-2 for the RHS. Confirmed with a multimeter. I think I was over excited and didn't read the instructions for the code reader properly. Pressing the button once only returns the first code logged.

Now to do it all again!

Edit: removing the disc also highlighted I'm missing the backing plate. My caliper is in poor condition too, one slider seized and the piston rubber is on its last legs.